Cut is the component that has the greatest influence on a diamond's appearance. The assessed color, clarity, polish and symmetry of a stone is important, just as the grading lab which provided that assessment (the AGS and GIA are most reputable). But the measurements, or ‘proportions,’ of a diamond tell more about how it will perform than any other surface data.
For instance: A diamond of extremely good cut will appear more colorless than a diamond of the same color grade with an average cut due to increased light return.
For instance: A diamond of extremely good cut will have more brightness, dispersion, scintillation and contrast and will hide flaws better than a diamond of the same clarity grade with average cut.
For instance: A diamond of extremely good cut will have edge-to-edge light performance and will look larger than a diamond of similar weight with average cut.
(courtesy, Garry Holloway)
Good, Better and Best Cut/diamonds_info. How do I find these?
1. GOOD (a top cut grade from a reputable lab)
There are 11 measurements and details of finish necessary to fully assess a diamond’s cut: Measurements in millimeters, Depth%, Table%, Girdle description, Culet description, Polish grade, Symmetry grade, Crown angle, Pavilion angle, Star average and Lower girdle facet average.
Most of the world’s grading laboratories provide only the first 7 of these details (those in blue, above). As of 2006 both the AGS and GIA, the two most highly regarded and strictest labs in the world, provide all 11, as well as a grade for cut (most labs grade only color/clarity and polish/symmetry).
A top cut grade from a proven laboratory is an excellent place to being in your assurance of top cut. The AGS cut grade of “ideal” is very strict. Only 3% of the world’s diamonds are estimated to be able to quality for this grade. The GIA’s top grade of “Excellent” is also great assurance. Approximately 10% of the world’s diamonds could earn this grade.
There are further ways to determine the level of pedigree as well as the specific personality of the diamond beyond a cut grade, however.
2. BETTER (knowing the diamond’s proportions and light return image)
Every diamond is subject to both analytic and aesthetic measure. The analytic details of craftsmanship may be viewed indirectly, on paper and measurements used to predict performance based on scientifically proven ‘proportions charts.’ Reflector photos of the diamond taken in ideal-scope or ASET can be compared to known standards to verify premium light return.
Proportions measurements and performance measures done with reflectors are the details that the laboratories consider when awarding a cut grade. Researching the best proportions available and viewing reflector images of diamonds will allow a buyer to locate better diamonds, even within the narrow range of the top AGS and GIA cut grades.
3. BEST (trust in a reputable seller)
The final aesthetics of optical performance can only be measured directly in the eyes of a viewer. A very basic example of aesthetic difference would be the difference between an "ideally" proportioned diamond with lower girdle facet lengths under 75% (tuned to perform optimally in low-light conditions), one with lgf lengths greater than 80% (tuned to perform well in direct lighting), or one with balanced lgfs around 77-80%. Each of these diamonds may receive the top, "ideal" cut grade. Each of these diamonds may have a tight range of proven proportions. Each of these diamonds may have an excellent reflector footprint for overall light return but their appearances will be slightly different in different lighting conditions and in the eyes of the beholder.
At this point, it becomes a matter of choosing a reputable seller known for discriminating taste in selection of inventory and intimate familiarity with the product. Much like a seller of extremely high performance automobiles, once you have located the correct sales floor you have found the “best of the best” and there are no wrong choices.
At Whiteflash we source diamonds of our design, cut exclusively by our Antwerp-based sightholder. We have an in-house inventory of diamonds with top cut grades, proven proportions, proven reflector performance and specific designs that have satisfied thousands of discriminating customers and enthusiasts. Whiteflash is a top consultant for several factories in the design of “Hearts & Arrows” Superideal diamonds. Whiteflash A CUT ABOVE® signature diamond has been called “the most visually balanced diamond in the world.”
At Whiteflash your assurance of the highest pedigree is assured. It is only a matter of consulting with a sales professional to determine your requirements and precise taste. You will be able to see the diamond before you purchase it because Whiteflash has a guaranteed examination & return period to ensure you of getting the stone you judge best suited to your standards and taste.
We are so confident in the diamonds we sell that we offer a 100% lifetime trade-up policy on our A CUT ABOVE® Diamonds. If you ever decide on a higher priced diamond we are pleased to accept your original diamond back for a full credit towards the new one.
For more specific questions ask our experts