Is it indestructible?

Is it more expensive?

Does it scratch easily?

What are other alternatives (like tungsten which is heavier and feels “better quality” whereas titanium is very light – used in engineering projects?

Can it be resized?

What type of maintenance?

And now some answers…

Titanium is a light, grayish color metal that holds up like steel, but feels like aluminum. Titanium hold up to wear and tear, while being lightweight. What more could one ask for? As a material is very light and extremely durable although it is not indestructible. In particular, titanium is used in a number of industries including the military, aerospace and sporting goods. As a result, titanium jewelry is highly resistant to corrosion and scratching.

Another alternative is a metal called Tungsten. Tungsten is a very heavy and hard metal for its size (4x harder than titanium) but can scratch easily. Tungsten will hold its shine and shape longer than any other jewelry available on the market.

A downfall of both of these metals is that they can NOT be re-sized so make sure that you get your finger size before ordering! In comparison to gold and platinum, titanium and tungsten are more cost effective and can give you the same look. You can purchase several titanium or tungsten rings for the price of one gold or platinum ring. Both tungsten and titanium are strong metals, but how would each react if you slam your finger in a door? The titanium would bend and the tungsten could possibly crack. A tungsten ring would be safer for your finger.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

When purchasing diamonds or any precious stones, be wary of low-quality inventory that retailers are trying to pass off as high-quality choices. But don’t worry. Whiteflash.com is dedicated giving you a true diamond education through our extensive online library. So come on, it’s time to get schooled in bling!

It’s especially important to know the cut and quality of a diamond when you’re choosing a piece of jewelry intended to spotlight a single stone. It’s similarly vital to choose a high-quality diamond for an engagement ring. It will be worn every day, and no matter how good the owner’s intentions are in the beginning, most women will admit that they don’t have theirs cleaned by a professional very often. But a high-quality diamond will sparkle and give off lots of light even with a layer of soapy scum on it.

Among the finest choices is a “hearts & arrows” super ideal cut diamond. The name comes from the shapes reflected from the diamond at different angles. When viewing this type of diamond, eight symmetrical heats and eight radiating arrows appear. These designs come from cutting a stone so precisely that facet reflections overlap, creating kaleidoscope patterns for the viewer.

Any diamond looks pretty good in lots of sunlight. It’s in low-light situations— a candlelight dinner, in a darkened theatre—where hearts & arrows really shines. Rainbow flashes and unmistakable fire is what you’ll see, and you’ll be glad you didn’t settle for anything less.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

That may be a satiric narrative but the subject is dead serious. Blood diamonds are used to fund wars and other brutal activities in certain parts of the world. Diamonds sold in this illicit trade promote violence and kill people; you want to make sure that your own non conflict diamonds.

Whiteflash Initiatives
Dreams of Africa, a Whiteflash initiative, is a program funding relief for children in Africa. 100% of the profit from sales of a designer line of conflict-free diamond jewelry and merchandise goes to the World Centers of Compassion for Children International(WCCCI) to give children affected by the illicit trade of rough diamonds the chance for a brighter tomorrow.

Whiteflash was the first online jewelry retailer to be awarded membership to The Council for Responsible Jewelry Practices (CRJP).

Dreams of Africa designer jewelry
We continue to be proactive, raising awareness for the victims of blood diamonds through our website, philanthropic celebrity endorsements, donations to charitable foundations, and communication with the media, but we would like your help.

Our message:
Blood Diamonds still exist. Buying “conflict-free” protects you as consumers but it doesn’t stop the pain. As one company we can’t change governments or politics, but we can turn diamonds into a gift for life.
Beyond the protectionist work Kimberley Process, the Patriot Act, NGOs and the CRJP are doing, we believe there must be people-centered answers to help actual humans without industry or red tape in the way

How can consumers help?
Spread awareness. Take part in the global discussion involving exploitation in areas where natural resources are rich and people are poor. Share this link and links to information given by other responsible organizations. Support “development diamond” initiatives such as Dreams of Africa. If possible, donate to organizations like UNICEF and the WCCCI.

Avoid conflict diamonds.
Consumers can aid in the effort to ensure that diamonds do not fund conflict.  When shopping, here are four questions suggested by NGOs Amnesty International and Global Witness to test the seller’s commitment to preventing trade in conflict diamonds:
1.    How can I be sure that none of your jewelry contains conflict diamonds?
2.    Do you know where the diamonds you sell come from?
3.    Can I see a copy of your company’s policy on conflict diamonds?
4.    Can you show me a written guarantee from your diamond suppliers stating that your diamonds are conflict-free?

Whiteflash Answers
1.    Whiteflash diamonds are produced exclusively by Kimberly compliant manufacturers.
2.    All Whiteflash A Cut Above® and most ‘Expert Selection’ diamonds are produced on the same fine-make floor of our Kimberly compliant Antwerp site holder. All diamonds brought to Whiteflash, whether from Antwerp or our known USA suppliers are in strict compliance with the Kimberly Process and the USA Patriot Act.
3.    This page represents our policy and position.
4.    Our unique sourcing situation allows great comfort in knowing our diamonds are conflict-free.  Additionally, every diamond we bring to Whiteflash is accompanied by this written guarantee:

The diamonds herein invoiced have been purchased from legitimate sources not involved in funding conflict and in compliance with United Nations Resolutions. The seller hereby guarantees that these diamonds are conflict free, based on personal knowledge and/or written guarantees provided by the supplier of these diamonds.
Every dealer should be prepared to provide you with the above written statement or words to that effect.

The Future
The political obstacles to creating free, fair and competitive markets in conflicted areas are historically considerable.  Beyond the protectionist work Kimberly Process and the Council for Responsible Jewelry Practices are doing we feel the information age presents an opportunity to work toward people-centered solutions.

About Us
Whiteflashis the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamondand bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamondsto the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement ringsand wedding bands, custom designed engagement ringsand diamond jewelry.

Unless you’re a groom wearing a high school or college ring, chances are your wedding ring is going to be the first real piece of jewelry (gasp!) and the most important ring you’re ever going to wear. While you did your duty by buying an engagement ring and popping the question, you’ll want to think about the ring that you buy for your bride and the one you’ll wear on your ring finger. We make it easy to get through the variety of choices for men’s wedding bands, from platinum to titanium and everything in between.

Mens Wedding Rings Materials
A groom’s wedding bandwill be made of platinum, white gold, yellow gold, titanium or stainless steel  Platinum and white gold are, at present, the most popular materials.

White gold is an alloy of gold (ie. it is a mixture of gold and silver or palladium). This is where the concept of Karat comes in. Karat is a measure of the purity of the material. An 18K gold ring has 75% pure gold. The higher the karat, the softer the ring and the more easily it will get scratched and dented. Accordingly, 18K is considered the optimal karat (with pure gold coming in at 24 karats).

There are positives and negatives with each type of wedding ring material you purchase. In particular, each will show different wear and tear after some time. The photo above shows what you can expect after one year of wear from each of the popular wedding ring materials.

Width of the Wedding Ring
The width of a man’s wedding ring is measured in millimeters. The smallest rings are 3 mm in width, whereas the largest rings are 8mm in width. Generally, men will purchase a ring that is on the larger side, tending towards 5-6 mm.

Style
Many of the younger generations of men choose simple wedding bands, and generally, have shied away from yellow gold in favor of 18k white gold or platinum. Some men have chosen rings that have a braid carved in them, or alternatively, some other edging that the manufacturer has set. Diamond-studded rings for men are definitely in the minority.

For additional comfort, grooms should consider purchasing a ring where the inside of the wedding ring is cambered or with rounded edges. Frankly, however, when a groom first wears a ring – any ring – it is likely to feel like a foreign object, with hard edges. Over time, rounded edges probably don’t add much, especially since most of the time, you’ll not even notice your ring. (You will, however, notice when your ring is not on your finger, as you reach to play with it. Read on to find out why this is the case.)

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Alternative Metals
• Platinum and gold are the go-to metals for wedding rings-but they come with a hefty price tag
• There are plenty of metals on the market that are still beautiful, elegant and less expensive
• Palladium is a growing trend that happens to have a similar look and feel to platinum, but can cost about 75% less
• If you’re more of a traditionalist, choose white gold over platinum. White gold costs 45% less than platinum

Simple Settings
• For the past couple of years there’s been a trend towards micro-pave diamond bands, diamond halos, etc., which can all add to the overall cost of a ring
• These days, some brides-to-be are opting for a more simple, subtle and chic setting
• Diamond Solitaires are less expensive than embellished options, like three-stone rings
• A simple, traditional prong setting or channel set band is also more cost-efficient than an elaborate tension or bezel setting

Double Duty
• Who says you have to have an engagement ring and a wedding band?
• One hot new trend is choosing a beautiful wide band with multiple rows of diamonds and making that your engagement ring and wedding band. Although the ring may cost more than a regular engagement ring, this double-duty ring can help you save more in the long run since you won’t need to buy a wedding band too

Colored Gemstones
• Call it hue-love, but brides are branching out of diamonds! Colored stones like topazes, sapphires, emeralds and rubies are becoming increasingly popular
• Luckily for grooms, they can get a more impressive-sized rock for their money by choosing a gemstone instead of a diamond
• If your bride-to-be loves colored diamonds à la Heidi Klum’s canary diamondthen pop the question with a yellow sapphire. Or try a tourmaline if you’re looking to replicate a pink diamond look.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

1: Use “old” to make “new”.
Did you inherit an engagement ring from your grandmother or a diamond wedding band from another woman in your family? The “antique” pieces carry a lot of sentimental value. Wouldn’t it be wonderful to “re-purpose” all of these diamonds in your own ring?

Work with your jewelry designerto incorporate the stones into the new engagement ring. Your ring will not only be unique, but will carry a part of special memory of your family.

3: You don’t want a traditional engagement ring; you are a trend-setter.
The plain Tiffany-style engagement ring is just not for you. How about a three-stone ring, with a larger diamond in the center and two smaller diamonds on the sides? Just not your style?

How many jewelry stores have you visited looking for that “different” ring? Ten? Twenty? If you think you will never find it, you are probably right. When you have something very specific in mind, chances are it is not in a jewelry showcase.

It is time to talk to Whiteflash.com, an online diamond boutique specializing in custom designed engagement rings and wedding bands. Describe your vision and we will create a CAD (computer aided design) image that is specific to your specifications and wants! After you approve we create the custom designed ring by hand!

4: You want to be able to remember not only where the ring was bought, but also how it was made.
You want to be part of every step in your engagement process and don’t want any surprises. You want the process of designing your engagement ring to be memorable and need to be involved in the creation process.

5: You love what the Hollywood actresses are wearing.
Did you fall in love with one of the engagement rings worn by a celebrity? Yet realistically, you and your fiancé-to-be cannot afford either one of those.

6: Details only known to you.
Are there things you want in your engagement ring that you don’t want other people to see? Like a little ruby stone you received in your pre-engagement ring years ago? A detail like this is important and meaningful to you but you may prefer to keep it private.

Certainly, this is a challenge, but not for a good designer. If you are custom-making your engagement ring, ask the designer to place the stones, initials, or dates into the ring’s gallery, the part located just under the stone of your ring. The gallery makes the ring smooth on the inside, the construction stronger, and it is a great place to keep the things that are meaningful to you away from other people’s eyes.

8: You know a jeweler whose work you have always admired.
You are lucky. Just as a trusted doctor or an attorney, a good jewelry designer is not easy to find. Has the designer made any pieces for you in the past? Do your family members always speak highly of that jeweler? Have you seen their work and fell in love with the style and quality of craftsmanship?

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of "super ideal cut" to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a "true patterning" guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Here are the top things jewelers need to think about when helping men purchase diamonds:

1.  Make the man comfortable from the start.  Offer him education and guidance in diamond shopping
2.  Tailor your sales staff’s approach to working with a man and guide him along the way!
3.  Coach the guy on how to get hints on style from the bride to be or her friends.
4.  Help them know diamonds, setting durability, and trends vs. tradition. Cut-Clarity-Color, Carat
5.  Help him find ways to “secretly” find her ring size so that it fits on the big day!
6.  Diamond and Jewelry Insurance- make sure to educate the man on his options.

Think overall experience for the man. He needs some guidance, relaxation, and of course pampering!

Grooms, please feel free to contact Whiteflash.comwith questions, or to share your wedding tips and stories. When you’re done talking to us, head on over to The Man Registry and create your groom wedding registry.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

More and more couples are choosing platinum, gold or white gold engagement ring settings. Platinum is pretty tough, so you won’t have to worry about the metal bending or stretching. However, gold and silver are much softer and more malleable. This makes these metals susceptible to bending or stretching. The main culprit: catching the ring in a sweater, blanket or carpet. If a prong grabs the fabric and you yank your hand away quickly, it can result in a misshaped band. Avoid this by being careful. If your ring does snag something, don’t pull away quickly.

Scratches

Platinum rings are less likely to scratch because they’re extremely tough. Small scrapes or nicks can be repaired with polishing (which can be done by most jewelers). If the damage is more significant, it might be more difficult to fix because of the density of platinum. On the other hand, gold and white gold are softer, so they may be easier to repair.

Loosening prongs

The risk of losing a stone in a pronged setting depends on the way it’s constructed. Most prongs will loosen slightly over time from everyday wear and tear. Some typical culprits include catching the prong on a sweater or hitting your ring against a countertop or door by accident. If you notice that one prong is loose, take it to a jeweler immediately. Once one comes loose, the others are likely to follow. Make sure you inspect your ring every few weeks to ensure that the stone is secure.

What not to do!

Whether you’re into horseback riding, mountain climbing or swimming, these activities can wreak havoc on your diamond engagement ring. If you’re really active, you could increase the risk of banging your ring up against something that may cause the prongs to loosen up, scratch the metal or worse. To prevent this from happening, leave your ring at home when partaking in these activities. Another option: Get a necklace in the same metal as your ring and hang the ring around your neck while working with your hands (think pottery or gardening).

How to care for it

Harmful chemical substances, like hairspray or cleaning supplies, can damage the metal and decrease the ring’s brilliance. Avoid these at all costs and take off your ring if you’re using them.

Diamond Eternity Rings

Just as the three-stone ring has morphed from an anniversary-only choice to a popular engagement piece, the sublime round of endless gems known as an eternity ring has come into its own as a particularly meaningful betrothal band. It’s now quite chic to forgo the solitaire altogether and opt for stones that travel around the circumference of the ring, symbolizing a love without beginning or end. Channel and bezel settings keep those sparklers secure, and while white diamonds populate most choices, look for scatterings of deep blue sapphires or crimson rubies to really catch the eye. The band metal of the moment is platinum. Rarer and more durable than gold, it’s also recommended for women sensitive to the alloys used in gold — it’s 90 to 95% pure.

The ideal cut diamond has remained the undisputed "king of cut" in the diamond world for decades.  It has long been heralded for its ideal balance of maximum reflection and dispersion.  However, in the last twenty years or so, some ideal manufacturers began to drift away from the strict proportions prescribed by Marcel Tolkowski.  The reasons for this evolution revolve around yield (trying to get a diamond with more carat weight), big price jumps between size categories i.e., .69-.70 ct., .89-.90 ct., .99-1.00 ct., etc. and the spiraling cost of rough diamonds.  Strict proportions limits were compromised and table size percentages grew to 57% maximum from the 53% of Tolkowski.  Perfect polish and symmetry became less important.

Economics takes precedence over perfection.

As cutters deviated from the strict Tolkowski specs their diamonds lost some of there potential for perfection.  Ideal cut became what it is today/diamonds_info. an ideal range of specifications known as the American Brilliant Cut.

Major American manufacturers of ideal cut diamonds began to manufacture in lower wages countries in search of low production costs. These diamonds once fashioned one by one, with the utmost of care, were mass produced in large factories. Stones cut on automated equipment often receive little individual attention. Their automatic machines were set to produce hundreds of diamonds a week in the ideal range.  As a result, some became perfect ideal cuts with top polish and symmetry.  Still others barely made the grade; their polish and symmetry only disappointingly average. Fortunately, not all cutters followed this trend and some continued to turn out superior ideal cut diamonds.  They realize the beauty comes from finishing the job.

Today, ideal cut diamonds still reign far above average cut diamonds in both beauty and rarity.  Like the finest wines or a luxury car, ideal cut diamonds are not for everybody.  Knowledgeable buyers of quality still seek out ideal cut diamonds in their quest for "the best money can buy".  That quest is about to become more interesting with the introduction of the newly crowned king of cut. The new "super ideal" cut/diamonds_info. the hearts and arrows ideal.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows.Whiteflash A Cut Above ® (ACA) Diamonds is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

When measuring the quality and value of a diamond, the 4C's are common analyzed components. The Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat weight are not only referenced when shopping for a diamond, but they are routine measurements of quality and value. Many people wonder what is the most important detail, what factor determines the brightness and the eye-catching appeal of a diamond? Most jewelers would agree it's the cut. When faced with the dilemma of compromising certain characteristics, never think of compromising the cut. It not only determines the gem quality and look, but it is intrinsically involved in value and price as well.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows.Whiteflash A Cut Above ® (ACA) Diamonds is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Diamond anniversary rings are a popular gift from husbands to wives, regardless of whether they are celebrating their first or their fiftieth anniversary. When selecting an appropriate ring, however, couples should take care to find a quality piece that symbolizes their ongoing love and commitment.

Styles of Diamond Anniversary Rings

Just as there are many different engagement ring designs, there are also many styles of anniversary rings. Choosing a diamond ring provides continuity with the original engagement ring and wedding ring, and despite the limitation of using only diamonds, there are still many options to choose from.

• Eternity Rings: These narrow bands are entirely encircled by diamonds, similar to a pave settings.
• Three Stone Rings: With stones to represent the past, present, and future, these classic designs are suitable for any anniversary.
• Right Hand Rings: Generally more elaborate than bands, these rings make a statement about a woman’s personality and individuality.
• Colored Diamond Rings: For a splash of color, consider choosing fancy diamonds. Pink, yellow, blue, and black are popular choices.
• Wraps and Enhancers: Upgrading the original engagement ring is the perfect way to show the relationship’s growth while honoring its beginnings.
• Naturally, diamond rings can be found in a wide range of styles within these general categories. Settings may vary, and some rings may use semi-precious gemstones for a hint of color without the expense of colored diamonds.

Choosing a Quality Ring

When selecting diamond anniversary rings, just as much care should be taken to find a quality diamond as when the engagement ring was purchased. First, locate a reputable jeweler who offers a selection of diamond jewelry. Examine individual rings for the classic diamond characteristics: cut, clarity, color, and carat weight. Investigate the possibility of certified stones to guarantee their authenticity and value, and consider purchasing insurance to protect the investment.

Perhaps the most important consideration when choosing an anniversary ring is to demonstrate the intimate knowledge of one’s spouse, that special connection that husbands and wives share. If a woman does not wear much jewelry, the best ring may be an enhancer, wrap, or simple band that she can pair with her wedding set. If she prides herself on her individuality, consider a right hand ring or other unique style.

When to Give Diamond Anniversary Rings

Because most anniversary rings use a greater number of diamonds than simpler designs, they frequently cost more than typical gifts, making them popular choices for later anniversaries. In fact, any wedding anniversary greater than sixty years is often referred to as a diamond anniversary. Couples do not need to wait six decades before choosing an anniversary ring, however. Popular times to give anniversary rings include:

• When renewing wedding vows for any number anniversary.
• On the first anniversary if the couple could not afford the desired ring.
• When celebrating other significant anniversaries, such as the proposal date, first date, or first kiss.
• To celebrate a momentous occasion: birth of a child, buying a home, etc.
• To commemorate overcoming relationship difficulties with a new promise or commitment.

Necessary Precautions

To preserve diamond anniversary rings for many additional years, it is important to care for them as precisely as for an engagement ring. They should be periodically cleaned with a soft cloth and mild cleanser to remove dirt and oil, and they should be stored away from other jewelry to prevent accidental damage. If the wedding set has exterior prongs or other protrusions, it is wise to wear the anniversary ring on the right hand to prevent scratches, or the rings may be soldered together to prevent them from rubbing.

A beautiful way to celebrate a marriage’s milestones, diamond anniversary rings are popular gifts available in a wide range of styles and designs. A ring that matches both the occasion as well as the couple not only commemorates a special relationship but also guarantees that the love and respect the couple shares will continue for many more years.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

The Brilliance Scope Analyzer is a tool that purports to return values for white light, color light and scintillation in a diamond using an imaging spectrophotometer in a controlled lighting environment.

The attractive quality of this machine is the consumer-friendly report it produces:  The results page includes colorized photos and simply stated values.  It is a tool suited for jewelers looking to quantify diamond beauty on paper in a way that the casual shopper may easily comprehend.

After testing this device we feel that it can be useful for separation of good light return versus poor light return over a range of average to good cut quality.  However, when making comparisons between equivalent makes of the finest precision-cut diamonds we find the results spurious and inconsistent.  Our research has identified fundamental issues with the aesthetic relevancy and analytic accuracy of what Brilliance Scope purports to measure.

Summarily, we feel our customers are not well served with Brilliance Scope data for four far-reaching reasons:

1.  What it reports is aesthetically irrelevant.

2.  What it reports is analytically inaccurate.

3.  The inaccuracies in the reports are deceptive to consumers.

4.  Even if readings were accurate or relevant, the admitted error of +/-5% makes its use as a comparative tool impossible.

Colleagues and consumers interested in our rationale can find a synopsis of conclusions, below.

1.  AESTHETIC IRRELEVANCY

Unlike Sarin, which measures proportions, an Ideal Scope image that shows light leakage or a Hearts & Arrows viewer which shows physical symmetry, the Brilliance Scope tries to evaluate what your eyes can already see.  However, no machine can perceive diamond beauty as well as the human eye.  Issues of subjectivity and environment prevent Brilliance Scope from providing any realistic correlations.

1a.  IRRELEVANCY DUE TO SUBJECTIVITY

Brilliance Scope attempts to assign a value to beauty, but human taste is subjective.  Even if BrillianceScope is useful for separating high and low performers of average cut it cannot make judgments of taste.  One diamond scoring slightly higher or lower than another cannot be termed as less or more beautiful, since humans see beauty differently.  “Devices that measure light and evaluate a diamonds light responses attempt to give an objective result for the subjective way human eyes and the brain perceive diamonds.” – Sergey Sivovolenko (OctoNus, Moscow, Russia)

Generations of diamond cutters have worked to discover and refine several types of diamond beauty to suit humanity’s broad palate.  A sudden mechanical interpretation of beauty is not acceptable as a replacement for the many variations in taste among humans who appreciate beauty at the highest level.

1b.  IRRELEVANCY DUE TO ENVIRONMENT

Brilliance Scope attempts to measure in divided, mechanical terms what humans see together in nature. It uses lighting conditions under which diamonds are never viewed to calculate pixels and return separate numbers for qualities of beauty that are never viewed separately.

“To be meaningful, measurements of diamond beauty should be made in the typical illumination circumstances in which human judgment of that beauty is made.  Measurements of beauty in atypical lighting can give high scores to cuts that have lower scores in typical illumination.” (Michael Cowing - “Describing Diamond Beauty”)

Brilliance and fire work in tandem to create the “life” of a diamond’s beauty.  It is erroneous to separate them.  Moreover, Brilliance Scope does not account for the contrast quality of brilliance in its measurements, nor does it use many small (distant) light sources so it cannot possibly evaluate scintillation in relevant or accurate terms.

2.  SCIENTIFIC INACCURACY

Brilliance, fire and contrast dictated by light source(s), environment and even the viewer’s presence in the diamond’s panorama of illumination all work together to create the scintillation aspect of a diamond’s beauty when that diamond undergoes movement.  Brilliance Scope cannot account for the many variables of the contrast aspect of brilliance, nor does the diamond being measured undergo movement.  Therefore it has no chance of evaluating scintillation in relevant or accurate terms.

2a.  INACCURACY DUE TO LACK OF DIAMOND MOVEMENT

Scintillation is a “quality” word used to describe diamond sparkle resulting from dynamic movement.  A human observes scintillation when the diamond is moved back and forth.  Sparkle occurs as different facets reflect light from various sources through the crown to the observer’s eyes as the diamond moves.  Tolkowsky and others referred to this quality of light return as the “life” of the diamond.  Today we call it scintillation or sparkle.

BrillianceScope cannot measure scintillation as the human eye sees it because the diamond is stationary while measured.  Attempting to vary light sources instead of moving the diamond is comparable to asking a shopper to hold the diamond still relative to his/her eyes and jump up and down to vary how light is reflected through the crown.

Any meaningful measurement of scintillation would entail measuring white light and colored flashes coming through all of the crown facets over an accepted range of tilt (typically 30 degrees).  This would require a separate measurement coefficient for the table, 16 star and bezel facets and 16 upper girdle facets.  These coefficients would then need to be multiplied by all degrees of tilt.  Of course, this would be a very simple starting point, as it does not take into account indexing, range of light sources, range of viewer, intensity of light, and especially contrast qualities of brilliance:

2b.  INACCURACY DUE TO LACK OF CONTRAST BRILLIANCE

There is a definition of what we perceive with scintillation known as the contrast quality of brilliance (see Michael Cowing’s studies on contrast brilliance).  In short, contrast brilliance is the diamond’s “static contrast,” whereas scintillation is “dynamic contrast” due to movement.  Contrast brilliance is one frame or snapshot of the moving picture of scintillation.  The change in contrast brilliance from one moment to the next with movement is scintillation.  Mathematicians would recognize scintillation as the partial derivative of contrast brilliance with respect to movement.

Any assessment of contrast brilliance (and therefore scintillation) must take into account illumination and viewing conditions, as well as the physical presence of the viewer in the diamond’s panorama of illumination.  Not only does Brilliance Scope fail to account for viewer and environment, its measurements are made in unnatural, atypical illumination circumstances (also addressed in 1b, above).

2c.  INACCURACIES IN MEASURE

B2.  Deceptive Returns

If Brilliance Scope is not measuring scintillation when the spectrophotometer is firing, what is it measuring? The following is information we strongly feel must be voiced about why BS gives deceptive readings for longer lower girdle facets, and the future of these diamonds in the 2005 GIA and AGS cut-grading systems.

LOWER GIRDLE FACETS

Our cut team understands why Brilliance Scope returns high “scintillation” values for stones with long lower girdle facets.  We also understand why those returns are deceptive.  As the percentage of the lower girdle facets increases the pavilion mains become thinner.  Up to a certain percentage this may increase the brilliance of the diamond, but after 80% proper dispersal of light is compromised:

 (please see this link for a diagram of diamond parts)

/diamond-education/diamond_parts.aspx

The pavilion mains are the mirrors of the diamond. They are the engines that drive light return. To acquire maximum efficiency, aesthetic spread and beauty within a diamond those mains are of paramount importance. The harmonious relationship between the mains and lower girdle facets is crucial.  By increasing the lower girdle facets and thinning the mains you more narrowly focus light return, reducing dispersal and the contrast quality of brilliance within the stone.

http://www.acagemlab.com/Article1/Article1.htm

Bias:  BrillianceScope’s particular lighting scheme tends to assign higher scores to one type of facet arrangement.  In our experience this arrangement does not result in a character of beauty with optimum visual balance.  It has been widely observed that BS overlooks combinations of facet construction that may be considered equally as beautiful as its more “preferred” arrangements.  It attempts to assign a value to beauty, but human taste is subjective.  One diamond scoring slightly higher or lower than another cannot be termed as less or more beautiful, since humans see beauty differently.  Generations of diamond cutters have worked to discover and refine several types of diamond beauty to suit humanity’s broad palate.  A sudden mechanical interpretation of beauty is not acceptable as a replacement for the many variations in taste among humans who appreciate beauty at the highest level.

BRILLIANCESCOPE DECEPTION

The reason “Scintillation” scores on BS are higher on diamonds with thin pavilions is because the light becomes more needle-like and concentrated. However, there is not increased light as BS would have you believe.  As a matter of fact, the inner beauty (dispersion of white light into spectral colors) of the diamond is reduced in favor of a narrowly focused needle of returning white light. This is most tangible in soft lighting conditions, where “narrow focus” of thinner mains causes the diamond to suffer.  Diamonds with thinner mains (lower girdle facets >80%) do not perform as well in soft light.

IS “BRILLIANCE THE ENEMY OF FIRE?”

No.  Neither is fire the enemy of brilliance.  However, the BS says differently.

Brilliance is a return of white light.  Dispersion is the breaking-up of white light into spectral colors.  Fire is the suite of colored flashes (chromatic flares) one sees within the diamond.  The finest diamonds achieve a harmony of both brilliance and fire.

All diamonds have the same dispersion value (.044, which is one of the highest for any natural, transparent gemstone).  Therefore, the amount of fire observed in a diamond is dependent on facet construction as much or more than lighting conditions.  The cut will determine how much brilliance you see, how much fire you see and whether you can see both in the same gem.

Diamonds can be and are purposely cut to return more brilliance than fire (simply put: lower girdle facets >80%).  Diamonds can be and are purposely cut to return more fire than brilliance (simply put: no light leakage and very thick pavilion mains).  And of course, diamonds can be cut to unify and maximize brilliance and fire (simply put: true hearts and proportionate mains).

Unfortunately, the BS rewards brilliance over fire.  This is why some of the best cut and well-balanced diamonds do not stand up to diamonds with over-long lower girdle facets on BS:  It favors the “needles” of thin white light, even if the diamond is not ideally balanced.

HISTORY LESSON

Q. Where did the term ”Fire” as it relates to a diamond originate?

A. It referred literally to the reflection of “fire” (lantern, torch, etc.) in a diamond.  Marcel Tolkowsky viewed diamonds under gas lanterns.  An important aspect of the quality of light return is the dispersion of light into spectral colors, which are seen as fire.

Old European cuts and old Mine cuts had much shorter lower girdle halves: 72-75%, sometimes even shorter. Why? Because even in pre-Tolkowsky days the cutters knew this was the way to maximize spread of light dispersal inside the diamond. They cut by the gas lantern. The best diamonds robustly returned maximum fire under those conditions. They still do today.

Diamonds producing what has traditionally been considered the “best” light return have lower girdle halves <80%.  Cutters like Brian Gavin (ACA) and Richard Von Sternberg (8*) still respect that proportion – which leads me to the next item:

CONSUMER BEWARE, PART 1

I am about to pull back the curtain on a controversial piece of truth-in-trade:  Some cutters have discovered they can “max out” those scintillation returns on BrillianceScope by lengthening lower girdle facets to narrow and focus light return.  Their over-thin pavilions return those ”needles” of light in great concentration and the machine rewards that with high numbers. This is like twisting a nozzle on a garden hose to acquire a thinner stream. There is not more water, it’s just more concentrated and appears stronger than it really is.

HOW TO TELL WHETHER LOWER GIRDLE FACETS ARE TOO LONG

We will assume that a stone cut for the Hearts & Arrows effect will have correct indexing and flat facets.  Even if this is the case, stones with lower girdle facets  of more than 80% will have splits/clefts in the Vs of the hearts (we call them “split hearts”).  These are the hearts being rewarded by BrillianceScope.  We do not believe this is a good thing.  Those split hearts are an indication that the lower girdle halves have been made so long that the pavilion mains cannot achieve maximum light dispersal within the stone.

Hearts with lower girdle facets at 78%, 80% and 82%

CONSUMER BEWARE, PART 3

Even if a lab grades symmetry Ex/Ideal, it is only grading meet point symmetry, not overall physical symmetry.  To judge a diamond's physical symmetry (large divergence of the angles, no yaw to the facets, flatness, each mirror aligning perfectly) we view its optical symmetry with the Hearts & Arrows viewer.

That being said, “hot spots” such as Rhino mentions on his BS readings can be explained if a pavilion facet has “yaw” relative to it’s opposite. The misalignment results in a focused beam of concentrated light. That brighter little shine on the machine is being read as being brighter, but that's a false reading. It’s just a spike which the BS sees.  It has been termed it a “hot spot,” when it’s not truly “hot,” it’s just another manifestation of less-precise cutting.

The Holloway Cut Adviser serves the same purpose with more elegance and ease.

Choosing the “right” diamond depends on personal circumstance, philosophy and resources.  No single choice is unequivocal or applicable for everyone.  Diversity is humanity’s great strength and prescribes that what may be right for one does not necessarily befit another.

Two of the world’s most reputable gem labs, AGS and GIA, tested it and returned it because of its inconsistency.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

See this link for an overview

1650:  Cardinal Mazarin designed the first cross-cut diamond, which was the beginning of the brilliant style of cutting.  In the early 1700s the Portuguese diamond cutter Peruzzi refined the first 58 facet brilliant cut. This style slowly evolved throughout the 1800s, known first as the old-mine cut and later as the old-European cut.  These cuts still followed the contours of the rough diamond in order to retain as much weight as possible.

1860:  Henry Morse opens a diamond cutting firm in Boston.  By 1880 he is recutting traditional old-European cut diamonds without regard for weight loss to produce the most beautiful round brilliant of his time.

1919:  Marcel Tolkowsky’s brilliant cut emerges along with his published thesis.  This work becomes the standard by which future cuts of the round brilliant, including the American Ideal Cut are fashioned.

1930:  Lazare Kaplan (First cousin to M. Tolkowsky) begins cutting diamonds to Tolkowsky ideal proportions.

1931-34:  Robert Shipley, the educator who popularized gemology in America, founds the GIA and the AGS.

1939:  GIA launch the Gem Trade Laboratories (GTL) issuing diamond certificates for color, clarity & carat weight which are still used today (pending the 2005 GIA grading system).

1946:  Robert Shipley makes the distinction between brilliance and scintillation in the GIA course material.

1953:  Richard T. Liddicoat develops and refines a complete grading system for diamonds that include a system for evaluating cut.

1955:  The AGS Diamond Standards Committee is established.

1960's:  AGS develops 0-10 scale for grading diamond cut and produces the Diamond Grading Standards manual.  It undergoes many revisions over the next 30 years.

1996:  AGS Laboratories open and begin grading, including cut grading for the round brilliant.

2005:  AGS Laboratories begins cut grading princess cuts as well as rounds and updates their system to performance-based grading.

 

The Evolution of the Super-Ideal

In the 1970s and 80s Japanese gemologists and scientists became engaged in micro-studies of diamond cut.  Kazumi Okuda, contracted by Tsuyoshi Shigetomi of Tokyo, developed tools for research which used colored reflectors.  One of these reflector tools eventually became the Firescope, which permitted a display of the optical performance of all 57 facets of the round brilliant.  Since that time, the Gilbertson-scope, Ideal-scope, ASET and others have evolved and serve similar purposes in the analysis of light performance.

In the late 1980s, after years of research using the Firescope, a cutter named Kioyishi Higuchi produced the first Eightstar diamond in Japan for a businessman named Takanori Tamura.

In the early 1990s, after continuing research, the Hearts & Arrows viewer is developed.  Somewhat different than the Firescope, this device allows the viewer to analyze the physical cut symmetry and alignment of facets in both the pavilion and crown of a diamond.  Shortly thereafter, the first ‘Hearts & Arrows’ diamond was produced in Japan.

In the 1990s Super Ideal cuts reached America.  Since that time standards for precision patterning have continued to evolve with developing technologies and improved tools.

The round brilliant diamond has been around for several hundred years but the precision patterning found in Super Ideal diamonds has been possible for less than 20.

What’s so Super about Super Ideal?

Super Ideals are all about maximized performance.  The broad strokes include crown and pavilion angles close to Tolkowsky’s - still considered the best for a round brilliant.  This is where most “Ideal” cut diamonds stop.  Super Ideals go even deeper.  Modern tooling and extra time spent eventually result in precise three-dimensional optical symmetry, where every adamantine facet is brought into optimum alignment with its opposite.  This means that all of the ‘mirrors’ are precisely, kaleidoscopically brought into their most effective position.

Going even deeper, there are some Super Ideals where seldom-discussed minor facets (lower girdles and stars) are shaped to specific proportions:  The precise length and width relationships of these tiny mirrors can be harmonized for dynamic performance through the broadest range of lighting conditions.

This level of fine-tuning is a result of world-class cutters marrying old-world knowledge with new-world technology in pursuit of maximum performance in a diamond.

Poor Marketing

Marketing of Super Ideals was driven by symbolism rather than performance when they were introduced in America.  Much of that continues to this day due to origins, and the fact that the public-at-large does not have a command of diamond knowledge necessary to understand the optical benefits of patterning.

The symbolism is tracable back to Eightstar diamonds in Japan.  The arrows pattern was seen as both the octagram of the I Ching and the Rinbo of Buddhism.  It was said that the pattern bore a resemblance to the eight-spoked wheel of dharma, associated with spiritual perfection in the Buddhist faith.  From that standpoint this pattern, and the subsequent Hearts & Arrows pattern that evolved, are products of a quest for perfection in precision and beauty in a diamond.  Not everyone considers the patterns to have symbolism, but there is a great deal of importance placed on them in other cultures.  Many of the engagement rings sold in Japan are Hearts & Arrows.

Logically, when precision patterning reached America the emphasis on symbolism had already established itself in the minds (and cultures) of the makers.  As a result, marketing efforts played up the “cute” aspect of neat little Hearts & Arrows.  That approach continues in the mainstream to this day…  And why not?  When was the last time you walked into a traditional jewelry store and the salesman discussed Tolkowsky proportions and patterning?  The public at-large does not know the difference between a diamond with a nice 40.8 PA or an undesirable 41.3, and that is a merely a surface aspect.

 Therefore, mass-marketing of precision patterning still relies on the “cute H&A” moniker for the present.

Performance

Any round cut for optimum light return should have a robust balance in its light return.  The benefits of patterning depend largely on lighting conditions and surroundings.

Almost any diamond will perform well in direct light, particularly the spotlighting you see in common jewelry stores.  You see much brilliance (WLR) and dispersion (fire, DCLR, or chromatic/colored flashes) as well.  The balance of these depends on the cut, but since so much light is entering and exiting the stone the 'fine-tuning' of what you see does not impact your eye as much as the sheer 'volume' does.

Well patterned diamonds begin to separate themselves in diffuse light.  A cloudy day or an office with fluorescent lights is typically an environment in which you will see less dispersion (fire or DCLR).  Well-cut diamonds return white light well, so the diamond can appear very bright, but the amount of fire you will see is often muted in this lighting condition.  Scintillation is also muted in diffuse light, but a diamond with great patterning has more elements of DCLR through a normal range of tilt (AGS calls this dynamic fire) due to optimization & contrast.

Soft light, such as candlelight, lantern, computer monitor in a dark room, or many small distant light sources, is where precision patterning in a diamond really stands out.  When alignment of the facets is optimized and minor facet construction is of a design that is well-balanced these diamonds maximize the return of all available light they are taking in.  These are the sparklers in which you will see broad flashes from a diamond on someone's finger across a restaurant in candlelight.  It’s a logical result of all of the facets, the mirrors inside the diamond, working in harmony.

Value

Those who have made an informed decision to buy a H&A diamond will say they are worth the premium – and that they see the subtle differences outlined here.

Those who have made an informed decision not to buy a H&A diamond will say they are not worth it - and that they do not see the subtle differences outlined here.

‘Experts’ fall on both sides of the line.

It comes down to a matter of perception, personal taste and values.  On a casual level any diamond that is well-cut is going to be wonderful, plain and simple.  Among the millions of diamonds walking the globe you may rarely compare or care about the fractional optimization or ‘subtle insight’ of precision patterning.

I am writing from my own experiences.  I began as a consumer searching for a diamond.  To make a long story short, I searched malls and specialty shops and eventually had the opportunity to compare non-ideal, ideal and super ideal side by side for many hours.  As a consumer the differences I have outlined above were clear to me.

Four years after my consumer journey I joined the trade.  Now, as I work among hundreds of these diamonds and study minute differences in patterning & minor facet construction, the distinctions stand out even more to me.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Overview

The HCA is a computer algorithm that predicts light performance of a diamond based on several measurements.  It is a useful tool for rejection, but should not be thought of as absolute.  The best use of HCA is to enter measurements and see if it identifies that diamond as an excellent or very good performer.

The actual number is meaningless.  For a minute let’s pretend that Sarin measurements are completely accurate.  Even so, HCA does not take into account minor facets, which play a prominent role in the character of diamond beauty.  Facet yaw influences character and performance, but is not a part of the HCA prediction.  Details of patterning and total facet symbiosis influence performance through a broad range of illumination environments in diamonds but these are not factored into HCA either.

Unfortunately there are people on Pricescope who are engaged in a useless attempt to quantify the HCA algorithm down to tenths of points.  Those discussions are misleading, and not relevant to the majority of "I’m-here-for-10-days" consumers who just want to know if the diamond they’re considering is going to be a high performer.

HCA provides a yes or no.  It places a diamond in or out of the top 5%.  Any further discussion regarding character is best done with an expert who has the actual diamond in-hand.

Scripts - Explanation

“The HCA gives a yes or no answer.  Once the diamond is under 2.0 the exact number doesn’t matter.  It tells you that on the results page, but it’s in the fine print.”

“Think of it this way:  You are the king.  The HCA is your taster.  After HCA determines the foods that are not poisoned you can start deciding which dish is your favorite.  It doesn’t tell you any more than that.”

“If the diamond scores 2.0 or less it means that it’s in the top 5% of all diamonds.  Remember that the HCA can’t see all of the minor facets.  It can’t tell how good the patterning is in a diamond.  It gives you a broad outline of the cut, but how well the diamond is actually made is something it can’t see.”

“A Whiteflash ACA diamond will always be even better than HCA predicts because of our Hearts & Arrows patterning.”

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Instant Expert: Upgrading Your Engagement Ring

We know you’d be happy with a twist tie as long as you’re married to Mr. Right, but if your engagement ring isn’t the fairy-tale bauble you’ve always dreamed of, consider trading up.

Why upgrade?

Trading in your rock has become more popular than ever—from stone swapping to adding more bling to your existing ring. “The trend with young adults is that they’ll get a $10,000 ring, and a few years later, they’ll want it to be larger,” explains Debi Wexler of whiteflash.com. “It’s a way of showing their appreciation for the longevity of the relationship.”

Here’s why many choose to upgrade

    * Size: You love the shape of your diamond, but you came down with DSS (Diamond Shrinkage Syndrome). The more you look at it, the, uh, smaller it seems to get.

    * Style: Your mate chose a pear-shaped cut in a gold setting, but you’ve always had your heart set on a princess cut in a platinum setting. Let’s face it: you’re not sporting “The Rachel” haircut anymore, right? Why not wear a ring that reflects your style?

    * Stones: You’d love to add more stones to your original ring to amp up the sparkle.

    * Setting: You were given an heirloom from one of your or his relatives that you want to reset or turn into a necklace or keepsake. Now you’d rather have a more modern, everyday ring that reflects your individuality and doesn’t feel like the old “family stone.”

Work with your original jeweler

Before you even think about upgrading your ring, find out what your jeweler’s policy is. It can vary: for example, whiteflash.com offers a lifetime policy on their branded diamonds, which allows you to trade them in for the full value you paid; Tacori applies a percentage of credit (usually around 75 percent) toward purchasing a new ring; and De Beers will upgrade your ring depending on an on-site appraisal of its current value.

Also, factor in setting costs. An upgrade from a 1.5-carat to a 2-carat won’t fit into your original setting, so you’ll need to get a new one, which will increase the price of your upgrade. You don’t have to toss the original setting, though; consider putting a colored stone in it for a right-hand ring.

Brush up on the basics

Here are the top things to remember when you trade in your ice:

    * Cut: Keep in mind that round and princess cuts are easier to upgrade than fancier cuts like radiant, pear, or cushion.

    * Quality: A higher-quality diamond is more likely to receive a higher upgrade value. Your diamond should be in the same condition as when you received it.

    * Certification: Certified diamonds (AGS or GIA) are more easily upgraded than non-certified diamonds. Always ask to see the certification for the new diamond.

Get more bling yor your buck

There are some sneaky ways to squeeze the most value out of your upgrade:

    * Don’t round up: Going from a 1-carat to a 1.9-carat is cheaper than going to a 2-carat, but you can’t tell the difference visually.

    * Skimp on clarity and color: You might assume that the four Cs are all of equal weight, but that’s not the case. Clarity and color aren’t as important as cut or carat when it comes to making a visible difference.

    * Go online: You can often get better deals from online discount jewelry retailers like bluenile.com, goldspeed.com, and ice.com; these sites are ranked among the top online jewelry retailers by internetretailer.com.

    * Buy used or estate jewelry: Search for estate sales in your area and frequent the classified section of the newspaper for deals.

    * Shop overseas: Take a second honeymoon to the Bahamas, Cayman islands, or Mexico, and save 40 to 60 percent on new jewelry.

Weigh the sentimental factor

Not willing to part with your original rock? Consider these options:

    * Try a past, present, and future ring: You can place the upgraded stone in the middle (which represents the present) and have two other smaller stones set on the outside (to represent the past and future).

    * Reuse a portion of the ring: Take your original stone(s) and have them remounted as earrings or a pendant.

    * Keep the original setting: If the size difference isn’t significant, you may still be able to replace the diamond without affecting your original setting.

    * Add anniversary bands instead: If the idea of altering your diamond in any way leaves you uneasy, take a different route altogether by adding stackable diamond bands.

 Insure your new ring

Whether you insured your first ring or not, now’s the time to cover your new assets:

    * Get appraised: If you’ve added value to an existing ring or purchased a new one, you need a new appraisal (from a certified gemologist or your jeweler) in order to update your existing insurance policy.

    * Secure a rider: Ring insurance is best purchased as an extension (typically referred to as a “rider”) to add on to your renters or homeowners policy. You must provide all your receipts and an appraisal.

Questions to ask

    * Is the ring covered if you lose it accidentally, or only if it’s stolen?

    * How will the company replace the ring?

    * Is the ring insured to its full value?

    * How will you need to prove that the ring vanished if you make a claim?

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

The Whiteflash Design known world wide for it’s champagne line of jewelry graces the inside of Zink magazine.Over 6 carats of pink sapphire and 100s of Whiteflash ACA Melee go into this handcrafted piece worn by Joann in this months issue of ZINK Magazine. Heavy Platinum is the metal of choice on this beauiful champagne inspired right hand ring.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

A PERFECTLY CUT HEARTS AND ARROWS DIAMOND 

Heart shapes are all even and well-defined	Arrows' tips are perfectly sharp and straight indicating excellent alignment

A REGULAR IDEAL CUT DIAMOND 

Hearts are uneven and appear longer and deeper. In some cases, hearts do not appear.	Some arrow tips are sharp and others are not or are missing, a result of facet misalignment

LESS THAN IDEAL 

Hearts fail to appear	Arrows fail to appear

In April 2004 Whiteflash.com presented his grading system for Hearts & Arrows optical symmetry at the First International Diamond Cut Conference in Moscow, Russia. It was hoped that laboratories and peers would unite to maintain higher standards for manufacture of diamond sold as "Hearts & Arrows." Though laboratories do not offer a grade for Hearts & Arrows, Whiteflash does, and safeguards buyers of the Whiteflash ACA brand with a guarantee of optical symmetry meeting the IDCC presentation criteria. - Here is Whiteflash's  presentation on Grading Hearts and Arrows

Grading the Hearts

Check for:

1. Eight equal, uniform and symmetrical hearts
2. Eight distinct hearts that separate from the arrowheads above

If above is correct check the following:

1. Check to see if the hearts are split
2. If so, measure length of heart then the length of the split.
3. Calculate the % of the length of the split

If it is greater than 8% and there are more than 2 of them the pattern fails.  This can be done visually once a standard of proficiency has been attained. 

Examples 

First, check that there are 8 equal hearts and 8 arrow heads.  They must be equal in size and shape as seen in the picture on the left below (True).  The picture on the right (Near-True) shows hearts not quite equal in size, but more importantly the hearts split in the cleft.  This is not true hearts patterning (not formed correctly - the most difficult case of all is to determine if it is correct or not).

In A1, A2 and A3, the heart is well defined, the gap between the arrow head is distinct and clear, and the split at A3 is minimal versus F1, F2 and especially F3. 

Calculating Accuracy 

Calculating the accuracy of the Hearts, you can measure the length as shown X to Y in 1a, below. Say this is 10mm.  If there are any splits in the cleft, this is measured. It can be no longer than 8% of the total length of the heart as shown by Z to C in 2A.  If there are more than 2 hearts split at more than 8% then it will not make the grade “True Hearts." 

In addition, the arrow head must separate from the actual Heart.

Lower Girdle Facets

The length to which lower girdle facets are cut is important to true hearts patterning.  Lower girdle halves longer than 80% LGH (or 78.5% LGL) of the length of the mains will cause the cleft in the heart to split and distort the patterning.  This is not acceptable.  Click here for more detailed information on the role of the lower girdle facets in diamond performance.

What Hearts Should Not Look Like

Here are examples of hearts that are not true and are easy to determine.

They are not equal and homogenous and the arrow head and hearts blend together in some cases.

Grading The Arrows

Check for:

1. Each arrow (8) must be clearly visible with a shaft and an arrow head
2. The 8 arrow shafts and heads must be straight and in correct position
3. The 8 arrow points must meet the girdle
4. There must be uniformity and balance

Near-True

These arrows seem to be acceptable, but they are not because there is no uniformity, not all the arrowheads reach the girdle and the shafts do not line up straight with the arrowhead.

Non-True 

Summary:  It's All In The Hearts 

Precise, true hearts result in precisely formed arrows.

Poorly Formed Hearts result in poor or no arrows.

Final Word

It takes modern tooling, skill and extra time to produce a diamond with true hearts & arrows. Unfortunately, I see many diamonds sold as 'hearts & arrows' which do not hold to the original standards of the Japanese factories where such cuts were first produced. The strategy for acquiring a precise, true pattern must begin with the pavilion patterning. "It's all in the hearts."

Additionally, hearts & arrows diamonds must be cut for maximum performance. Those with crown and pavilion angles close to Tolkowsky's have become known in the trade as 'Superideals.' I strongly feel that any diamond worthy of being called 'Superideal' must have premium light return and light performance as fundamental prerequisites, in addition to true hearts & arrows patterning.

I hope this system is useful to my peers invested in the art of premium diamond cut. I strongly encourage manufacturers and sellers around the world to unite and set higher global standards for diamonds we choose to offer to consumers as 'hearts & arrows' cuts.

Hearts & Arrows Formation and Grading

In April 2004 Whiteflash.com presented his grading system for Hearts & Arrows optical symmetry at the First International Diamond Cut Conference in Moscow, Russia. It was hoped that laboratories and peers would unite to maintain higher standards for manufacture of diamond sold as "Hearts & Arrows." Though laboratories do not offer a grade for Hearts & Arrows, Whiteflash does, and safeguards buyers of the Whiteflash ACA brand with a guarantee of optical symmetry meeting the IDCC presentation criteria. - Here is Whiteflash's presentation on the Formation of Hearts and Arrows

How the Hearts are Formed

Below are views of Hearts & Arows being forming during the cutting process as they would be seen through a regular Hearts & Arrows Viewer.  The leftmost photos show the diamond blocked in 8.  The center pair shows the pavilion fully cut, with crown still in 8.  The pair on the right show the fully formed Hearts & Arrows when pavilion and crown have both been finished.

Overlapping Reflections

The graphic below shows, in sequence, how the main pavilion angles reflect to create the heart pattern.  One pavilion facet creates two opposite sides of a heart. Two Pavilion facets create 1 heart and 2 single sides of the next heart and so on until all the hearts are complete.  Understand that these reflections must overlap precisely for 8 hearts to appear.

Outside the Viewer

This picture shows the main pavilion facets outlined and one heart highlighted in red.

The main pavilion facet reflects on the opposite side, and the lower girdle half separates the arrowhead above the heart.

The Role of the Star Facets

Star facets square off the ends of the heart.

1: Without Star facet not in place and

2: With the Star facet in place. Note the squared off heart shape.

The Role of the Upper Girdle Facets

The upper girdle facets complete the patterning around the circumference of the pavilion.

3: Without upper girdle facets and

4: With upper girdle facets in place

True Hearts 

As you can see, it takes a total of 5 different facets working in harmony to create a single Heart with an arrowhead at the tip.

1 Heart = 2 main pavilion facets + 2 lower girdle facets + 1 star facet from the crown

How the Arrows are Formed

In addition to being the foundation of good hearts patterning, the eight main pavilion facets also cause the Arrow effect.  These main pavilion facets are the bottom-most facets on the diamond and draw their light from the highest angles.  They are the engines which drive light return. 

If you have ever wondered what causes these bottom-most facets to appear dark in diamond photos, click here for an article on this phenomenon, known as obstruction.

The shaft of an arrow is formed when one main pavilion facet reflects on the opposite main pavilion facet.  The main crown facet allows a different reflective view of the reflected main pavilion facet, thereby forming the arrowhead.

Part One Summary:  It's All In The Hearts

If the physical symmetry is out in the slightest the optical symmetry will be affected.  In forming the arrows it is easier to camouflage errors since there are fewer facets to align.  But it is impossible to hide any inconsistencies in the heart pattern because so many more facet reflections must overlap precisely to complete each heart shape.  Even the most minor inconsistencies will make the hearts pattern skewed or distorted.  Any lack of optical symmetry will be seen very clearly when viewing the diamond through a Hearts & Arrows Viewer, particularly the pavilion view.  This is why "it's all in the hearts."

Final Word

It takes modern tooling, skill and extra time to produce a diamond with true hearts & arrows. Unfortunately, I see many diamonds sold as 'hearts & arrows' which do not hold to the original standards of the Japanese factories where such cuts were first produced. The strategy for acquiring a precise, true pattern must begin with the pavilion patterning. "It's all in the hearts."

Additionally, hearts & arrows diamonds must be cut for maximum performance. Those with crown and pavilion angles close to Tolkowsky's have become known in the trade as 'Superideals.' I strongly feel that any diamond worthy of being called 'Superideal' must have premium light return and light performance as fundamental prerequisites, in addition to true hearts & arrows patterning.

I hope this system is useful to my peers invested in the art of premium diamond cut. I strongly encourage manufacturers and sellers around the world to unite and set higher global standards for diamonds we choose to offer to consumers as 'hearts & arrows' cuts.

Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows diamonds are cut so precisely that their facet reflections overlap at a microscopic level, creating a kaleidoscopic pattern of hearts seen in the pavilion and arrows seen in the crown of the diamond.  A reflective viewer provides concrete evidence of total optical symmetry, and superb cut. The pictures below display the actual representation of the top and bottom view of an Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows diamond.

With the diamond upside-down the overlapping reflections create a pattern of eight symmetrical hearts in the pavilion.  It takes six perfectly aligned facets to create a single heart.  If any facet is off the entire pattern will be distorted.

---

Turn the diamond over and you will see eight radiating arrows in the crown.  Each arrow is a reflection of two perfectly aligned pavilion mains.  Other reflector devices will show the arrows as well.

One of the most important factors that defines an Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows diamond is that its pattern of Hearts & Arrows must be symmetrical and vivid.

Sometimes we are asked if a diamond with a top grade in 'symmetry' will show hearts & arrows.  The answer is no.  There is a difference between lab-graded symmetry and optical symmetry (read more here).

We are also asked if the arrows appear dark in 'real life.'  That answer is also no.  When the diamond is in motion the pavilion mains are lively and dynamic.  The arrows you see in photos are created by 'obstruction' (read more here).

See For Yourself

Even the most discerning consumer cannot dispute the beauty and perfection of these diamonds after seeing the Hearts & Arrows patterns through a viewer for themselves.  Every Whiteflash ACA purchase includes a complimentary ACA Toolkit with a compact magnifying viewer, permitting a three-dimensional view of the Hearts & Arrows (arrows only once diamond is mounted); a firsthand look at the extraordinary cut precision maximizing the natural beauty of the diamond

What Hearts & Arrows Patterning Does for a Diamond

All ideal cut round diamonds will have robust light return.  The benefit of Hearts & Arrows patterning reveals itself in differing lighting conditions and surroundings, particularly in softer conditions.

Bright, direct light makes any diamond perform well, particularly the spotlighting you see in common jewelry stores.  These overhead spotlights are designed to maximize brilliance and fire in order to sell any diamond.  The balance of what you see does depend on the cut, but since so much light is entering and exiting the stone the 'fine-tuning' of what you see does not impact your eye as much as the sheer 'volume' of the light return does.

A cloudy day or an office with fluorescent lights is an example of diffuse light.  This is one of the least desirable conditions for any diamond and is typically an environment in which you see almost no dispersion (fire).  Well-cut diamonds return white light well so the diamond may appear very bright, but the amount of fire you will see is muted, which logically mutes scintillation.  In diffused lighting Hearts & Arrows diamonds perform better than other diamonds due to better, uniform contrast patterns.  The precision of cut and symmetrical areas of contrast allow the viewer to see more fire through a normal range of tilt than in less uniform cuts.

Where H&A diamonds really stand out is in soft light such as candlelight, gas lantern, near a lone computer monitor in a dark room, or surrounded by many small distant light sources.  When all of the diamond's tiny mirrors are precisely aligned and the minor facet construction is well-balanced these diamonds maximize the return of all available light they are taking in.  True Hearts & Arrows diamonds are those  from which you see broad colorful flashes from someone's finger across a candlelit restaurant.  They dance and sparkle and perform their best in romantic conditions.   It’s a logical result of all of the facets, the mirrors inside the diamond, working in harmony.

Another benefit of Hearts & Arrows diamonds with proper major proportions is improved face-up color.  Diamonds are color-graded in the face-down position, viewed from the side.  Superior light return maximizes brilliance, fire and scintillation and makes the diamond appear more colorless. 

Hearts & Arrows is the term used for superideal cut diamonds that exhibit a complete and precise Hearts & Arrows pattern. Hearts & Arrows diamonds have three distinguishing factors – perfection in polish, symmetry, and proportion.

This effect is attained when all the facets are precisely aligned and the diamonds are cut and polished to perfection. The perfect symmetry of an Whiteflash ACA also know as Whiteflash ACA hearts and arrows diamond places it in a class of its own.

The Hearts & Arrow patterns look like this when seen through a Hearts and Arrows scope

Each Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows diamond is a perfectly cut round brilliant diamond, which in addition to being ideal in proportion, is totally symmetrical and perfectly polished. In order for the diamond to attract and reflect the maximum amount of light, it must be cut with expert craftsmanship, precision and control. When these fine cutting techniques are employed, they produce diamonds that excel in brilliance, fire and scintillation.

Cut is the most important aspect of diamond beauty.  It is the only factor controlled by man, but for many years it has been the least discussed.  Here you will learn what details have the most impact on a diamond’s beauty and more importantly, how to FIND this information.

The Importance of Cut Grading

Cut refers to more than just a diamond’s shape.  It refers to more than depth, table, polish and symmetry.  A round diamond’s cut quality also depends on physical measurements called proportions.  A diamond’s proportions determine how well a diamond will sparkle and reflect light.  There are 11 different proportions and cut details for a round diamond.

PROPORTIONS AND FINISH

These details are all necessary for determining a diamond’s quality, but many sellers still provide only 7 of them. 

Cut quality is the most important information about a diamond, but in many places you will no mention of the missing proportions or a grade for cut.  The most common grading labs used by diamond sellers provide some details on cut proportions, but not enough to determine cut quality. 

Notice in the example below that there are grades for color and clarity, but not for cut.  Without the missing details a diamond cannot be properly evaluated and cannot be measured against already-established cut grades.

 ?  NO GRADE FOR CUT ?

Lack of consumer awareness

Most consumers don’t realize there are grades for cut.  Color and clarity have been graded since the 1930s but no major lab graded cut until 1996.  Most diamonds on the world market would not qualify for a top grade, so cut grading has been met with resistance in some places.  Since cut is the only C that man controls, you may wonder why most diamonds are produced at an average level of quality.

Why most cut quality is average

It takes planning and effort to transform a piece of rough into a polished diamond.  The greater the planning and effort, the more beautiful the diamond will be.  However, more effort causes more rough material to be polished away, resulting in less carat weight. 

For many years consumers were unaware of the importance of cut, so it was cost-effective for factories to produce diamonds of average quality since they could be finished more rapidly and retain more carat weight.  As education about cut has spread on the internet, the demand for higher quality increases and factories are improving their methods.  Still, to this day only a small number of diamonds are cut to premium quality.  

Laboratories responding to consumer demand

The good news is that factories and laboratories are responding to consumer demand.  As of 2006 two of the world’s most reputable labs are providing all details and assigning cut grades for round diamonds.  These labs are the American Gem Society and the Gemological Institute of America.  AGS and GIA grading reports give parameters necessary to determine cut quality.

Note:  GIA reports several details as rounded numbers so an independent Sarin or Helium report is recommended to accompany a GIA-graded diamond, in order to know all proportions measurements with greater accuracy.

The Pyramid of Cut

The AGS and GIA approach cut grading differently, but both are proven systems.  Diamonds awarded the top grade by these labs are near the top of what we call the pyramid of cut.

The AGS system is very strict.  Less than 3% of the world’s round diamonds can earn the AGS top grade of 0 or ‘Ideal.’   The GIA’s top grade of ‘Excellent’ allows for a range of taste that is broader but is still an assurance of good quality.

A diamond earning one of these grades is above average cut quality and, very importantly, will have passed all tests for depth, durability, polish and basic symmetry.  It will also have visibly superior performance compared to average diamonds. 

The AGS Ideal grade is considered very elite.  The GIA Excellent grade has more latitude and allows abundant steep/deep combinations (so GIA EX diamonds may appear smaller than they should for carat weight), but the information is provided so you can assess this for yourself.

Our Strong Opinion

We encourage buyers to seek diamonds graded by the AGS or GIA.  They provide detailed cut information and the reputability and strictness of these labs with color and clarity grades allows diamonds accompanied by their paperwork to retain better value.  A top grade from the AGS or GIA is the best assurance of quality offered by any major lab.

Cut Information Summary

Consumers know very little about cut because most of the world’s diamonds are still graded by labs that do not offer a cut grade.  A person doesn’t need to know every last number to make a good decision, but understanding cut grading allows a more informed and confident decision.

>>Next: Cut Analysis

Carat Weight

The weight of a diamond is expressed in carats.  This term comes from ancient times when gems were weighed against the carob bean.  One carat is equal to 200 milligrams, or one fifth of a gram. 

Carat weight is sometimes expressed in points.  One point equals 1/100th of a carat, so 25 points is equal to a quarter of carat and 50 points is equal to half of a carat.  Grains of rice were also used.  4 grains of rice were equal to a carob bean.  That’s why people sometimes call a quarter carat diamond a one grainer.

Carat Weight and Cost:

As carat weight gets larger the value of the diamond increases disproportionately. This is because pieces of rough material are increasingly rare with size.  Over a million pieces of rough must be mined to find one piece large enough to produce a 1 carat finished diamond.  This means that a diamond twice as large as an identical, smaller one may be three or more times as expensive, depending on the market.

Prices per carat change at certain size thresholds. For example, the price per carat will be less for a .90 F VS2 diamond than the price per carat for a 1.00 F VS2, which will be less than the price per carat for  a 1.50 F VS2 diamond, even though the color and clarity are the same. If the diamond of your dreams is above your intended budget, you may want to think about purchasing a diamond of the same color and clarity just under the threshold of the weight that you have in mind.  Of course, diamond manufacturers are aware of these price-making weights too, so most diamonds are produced to finish at or just above such thresholds.

Carat Weight and CUT:

Carat weight is not the same thing as size.  As diamonds increase in weight their apparent size becomes less predictable.  Diamonds cut too shallow may appear larger than they should, while diamonds cut too deep may look smaller.  Too shallow and too deep are both undesirable.  In this example bigger is not better.

proper spread

You should always use millimeter measurements and consider girdle thickness when judging proper spread for carat weight.  

diameter guide for rounds

(Not an exact representation of corresponding carat sizes)

Superior cut can also result in edge-to-edge light performance.  A well-cut diamond will appear larger than other diamonds of the same carat weight and spread (this will also be addressed later, in our CUT tutorial).

Apparent Size

(Photo courtesy, Garry Holloway)

shopping tips

• Know what size the recipient desires.
• Research what that person’s friends have.
• Local expectations vary (East Coast, West Coast, Midwest, etc.).
• Spread should be correct for carat weight.
• Seek great diamond CUT for edge to edge light return.
• Finding a diamond just under a certain size threshold may save money.

>>Next: Color

Even though they are transparent, most diamonds contain some hint of color.  This is caused by the presence of nitrogen in the earth where they formed.   Diamond color grading is done on a scale of D to Z.

D is ‘icy-white.’ These diamonds are the most colorless and most rare, so they are considered most valuable.  There are 23 descending grades, so the increasing hints of color are very slight.  The average person cannot distinguish between several color grades.  D, E and F diamonds are all considered colorless to normal vision.  G, H, I and J are called near-colorless but still considered to be in the white range.  K through Z are faint yellow to yellowish or brownish.  A diamond with more color than a Z is a ‘fancy colored diamond’ and could be a different color like pink or blue.  These ‘fancy colors’ are not graded on the same scale.

grading report from the ags or gia

You should also consider where the diamond was graded.  Grading is subjective and some laboratories give easier grades than others.  In the United States the GIA and AGS are widely considered the strongest laboratories.

Color and Photos

If you’re shopping on the internet you can’t make color determinations with imagery or photos.  It’s best to speak with a trusted expert who has the diamond in hand.  

Color and the influence of CUT

The shape of a diamond influences the amount of color people may see in it.  A round brilliant is the most efficient shape for returning light and will show less apparent color than a mixed cut like a princess, or a step cut like an emerald or asscher.  But most important is how well the diamond was cut.

Diamonds are graded in the face-down position and viewed for color from the side.  This is because great light return in a diamond can ‘mask’ color, especially in round brilliants.  Extremely well-cut diamonds may appear more colorless in the face-up position than the grade they received at the lab due to superior light return.  For instance, a diamond that was graded H in the side position can ‘face-up’ like a G or an F, but only if it was cut extremely well.

Whiteflash first sold only diamonds in the D-I range, but our commitment to cut quality resulted in the majority of our near-colorless diamonds to face up several grades better.  As a result we are now selling colors as low as K, to the delight of many consumers.

Color and Sensitivity

Some people are more color-sensitive than others.  One person may see color in a diamond that appears to have no color to someone else.  Even if you have great sensitivity to color you may have different preferences than others.  The icy whiteness of a D may appeal to one person, while the warmer look of a J appeals to another.  A third person may not see any difference between the two.  

Color and Settings

Remember that diamonds absorb the color of their surroundings, so it’s best to judge them against a white background.  Once mounted a diamond will show less color than it did loose.  Remember that the choice of setting may influence your diamond’s color.  If you choose a gold setting and have a colorless diamond that diamond may absorb and reflect back some of the setting color.  There are many different combinations and no single one is for everyone.  Ultimately the choices are determined by personal preference and sensitivity.

Fluorescence

A small percentage of diamonds fluoresce under UV light.  This is harmless and the presence of blue fluorescence can even raise a diamond’s apparent color.  In some circumstances a diamond graded as having “strong fluorescence” may appear oily or milky, but not always.  

Fluorescence other than blue should be avoided unless it exists in a fancy colored diamond of the same color.

Diamonds With Fluorescence

Color Enhancement

High Pressure High Temperature treatment (HPHT) is a process where a diamond is irradiated to improve its color.  We sell only natural diamonds and do not deal in those with color or clarity enhancements.  Sellers who do are required to disclose the fact that they were so treated.

shopping tips

• Color can’t be judged in photos or on monitors.
• Consider which lab assigned the grade.
• Wear a white, gray or black top when shopping.
• Judge color against a white background.
• View the diamond unmounted.
• View the diamond from the side looking for tint.
• Compare side versus face up appearance.
• With “very strong” fluorescence look for an oily or milky appearance.
• Consider your diamond’s color when choosing your setting.
• See the diamond in the proposed mounting before purchase.

>>Next: Clarity

Clarity Grading

F and IF mean the diamond is Flawless or Internally Flawless when examined by a trained professional under 10 power magnification.  Such diamonds are very rare and are costly.

VVS1 and VVS2 stand for Very Very Slight inclusions.  This means the professional found it very difficult to see minute inclusions under magnification.  There is practically no chance an observer will see such inclusions with the naked eye.

VS1 and VS2 stand for Very Slight inclusions.  VS1 is difficult for a professional to see with 10 power magnification.  VS2 is easier to see, still under magnification.  It is very unlikely that an observer will see VS inclusions with the naked eye.

SI1 and SI2 stand for Slightly Included.  This means a professional easily saw inclusions with 10 power magnification, but may or may not be able to see them with the naked eye.  Whether or not a diamond is “eye-clean” to an observer will be discussed in a moment.

I1, I2 and I3 stand for Included.  These inclusions are easily seen with magnification and are also visible to the naked eye.

Clarity and Grading Standards

As with color, you should always consider where the diamond was graded.  Grading is subjective and some laboratories give easier grades than others.  In the United States the GIA and AGS are widely considered the strongest laboratories.

Is it Eye-Clean?  

The most important question for many shoppers, especially on the internet, will be whether or not the diamond being considered is “eye-clean.”  This is a useful term, but there is no official definition.  Distance, lighting and human vision can all be different, so you should have clear expectations when asking this question.  Our own definition of eye-clean:

No inclusions visible face-up at a distance of 8-10 inches in natural lighting to a person with 20/20 vision.
10 inches is the “distance of most distinct vision” as defined by the American Gem Society, so this is a logical standard and it gives us a working baseline for our customers.  If a strong lab like AGS or GIA did the grading, it is likely that anything VS2 and above will be completely eye-clean.  But every SI1 and SI2 diamond is different.  Some have inclusions visible to some people and many others don’t.  If eye-clean is important to you a clear definition between buyer and seller is critical (click for more information on Eye-Clean).

Side Inclusions

Clarity grades are assigned in the face-up view, not looking from the side or the bottom.  An inclusion that is not visible from the top may be visible from the side, where there is more transparency. 

Clarity and the influence of CUT

Inclusions are more difficult to see in well-cut diamonds because of maximized brilliance, dispersion, scintillation and contrast.  This is another reason that cut is so important in a diamond.  Another thing to remember is that rounds and princess cuts have more facets than most other cuts, and can hide inclusions better.

Clarity and Durability

There are many types of inclusions and blemishes.  It’s important to mention one in particular, known as a feather.  A feather is a tiny fissure inside a diamond.  In some circumstances it could pose a problem with durability.  Diamond cutters usually plan around these inclusions, but it is always wise to seek expert advice if there is a concern.

Clarity and Sensitivity

As with color, clarity-perception varies among people.  One person may see an inclusion that is completely invisible to another.  Age and nearsightedness influence your perception, so it won’t be the same 10 years from now as it is today.  It’s also a matter of personal preference.  Some people insist on flawless diamonds.  Other people just want the diamond to be eye-clean, and still others consider inclusions to be natural ‘birthmarks’ in the diamond which make them special. 

Clarity and Settings

It is often possible to hide inclusions near the girdle with a prong while setting.  

Clarity Enhancement

There is a process where a diamond is drilled to remove an inclusion, called ‘fracture filling.’  We sell only natural diamonds and do not deal in those with color or clarity enhancements.  Sellers who do are required to disclose the fact that they were so treated.

Clarity Summary

Clarity is quite simple.  If you don’t want inclusions, a grade like VS or VVS will practically guarantee that you will never see one.  If you want to find an eye-clean SI1 or SI2 diamond you will need to work with an expert you can trust to find one that meets your expectations.

shopping tips

• Know what level of clarity you desire.
• Consider which lab assigned the grade.
• Establish a clear definition of ‘Eye-Clean’ with the seller.
• Consult an expert about any feather in your diamond.
• A prong may be able to hide an inclusion near the girdle.
• A level of imperfections can be an advantage, as they serve as a fingerprint for a diamond.
• “SI3” is used by one lab.  We consider it a soft I1 grade.

>>Next: Cut Information

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grades the cut of round diamonds based on proportions.

The American Gem Society (AGS) grades the cut of rounds and fancy shapes based on light performance.

Since proportions assessment looks at the container and performance assessment looks at the contents we use both methods to analyze our diamonds.

A diamond has facets that allow light to enter, become refracted and exit in a rainbow of colors.  Certain angles and measurements are proven to maximize these effects.  The facet arrangement of the standard round brilliant diamond permits reliable analysis if you know that diamond's proportions. 

Note that fancy shapes are more complex and cannot be decisively predicted using proportions.  This is discussed in part 2. Performance Assessment.

Parts of a Diamond

Before proceeding it is important to know the locations of various facets on a round brilliant diamond and become familiar with the role proportions play in light performance: 

The Tolkowsky Ideal

In 1919 a mathematician and diamond cutter named Marcel Tolkowsky calculated a set of proportions for the ‘Ideal’ round brilliant.

A round diamond cut near these proportions will do a better job of dazzling us with its beauty than one that is not.  Those measurements remain a standard by which the world’s finest diamonds are judged today and logically formed the basis for the first cut grading system in 1996.  As laboratories develop new systems we know that other beautiful configurations are possible, but Mr. Tolkowsky still takes center stage.

Proportions Charts

Basic proportions assessment is done by comparing a diamond’s measurements to proven ranges on charts.  Over time charts have been developed to predict the potential of a diamond based on its proportions.  The In 1996 the American Gem Society, or AGS, became the first lab to assign a grade for cut to the round brilliant diamond.  This grade was based on proportions near Tolkowsky’s.  Since that time the AGS has moved to performance assessment and includes some fancy shapes.  This AGS ‘Traditional Ideal’ proportions chart is still used as a reference for round brilliants. 

AGS Traditional Ideal Proportions, 1996-2005

Round diamonds with overall measurements in this range are considered to have traditional ‘ideal’ proportions.  In 2005 the AGS changed to performance assessment, and diamonds at the outer limits of this traditional range may no longer receive their top grade (on the New DQD), but those near the middle will always be considered top performers.

Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows Proportions, 2000-Current

More strict than traditional AGS proportions, these areWhiteflash's parameters for Whiteflash ‘ACA’ Hearts & Arrows diamonds.  Round brilliant diamonds within this range of measurements receive the highest ratings in both proportions and performance grading systems.

Note:  Whiteflash ACA diamonds must also receive 0 ‘Ideal’ grades in light performance, durability, polish & symmetry from the American Gem Society.  They must also meet Whiteflash's standards for 'True' Hearts & Arrows optical symmetry:  Learn more here.

Online Estimators

Another type of proportions assessment involves plugging measurements into a cut estimator for a computer assisted prediction of performance.

The Holloway Cut Adviser (HCA)

In the 1990s an Australian geologist named Garry Holloway introduced an online cut advisor that gained great popularity.  Knowing only 5 measurements, it is possible to get an indication of predicted performance.

Click here to evaluate your diamond's proportions with the HCA

 Note:  The HCA is intended to be a tool for rejection of poor candidates, not final selection between well-matched ones.  Read usage warnings (etc)

GIA Facetware

As of 2006 the Gemological Institute of America provides a similar online cut estimator which mirrors their cut-grading system. 

Click here to evaluate your diamond's proportions with GIA Facetware

Computer Simulation

A form of proportions assessment suited to collectors and analysts takes a 3D scan of a diamond and generates a virtual model that can be manipulated with Diamond Calculation software.  One such program is DiamCalc by OctoNus.  Cutters and analysts use such software to arrive at broad design and performance conclusions. 

When evaluating a specific diamond scan accuracy and calibration make natural reflector photos and live analysis of the actual diamond preferable to assessment of this type of simulation.  However, a great deal can be learned using this advanced tool.

Insist On Knowing

Whether you target the most elite proportions or not, it’s reasonable to insist on knowing all measurements of any diamond you consider from any seller.

Where proportions assessment is a prediction based on measurements, performance assessment looks at the actual light output of a diamond.  Diamond performance has traditionally been described in terms of brightness, fire and scintillation.

Brightness refers to all light returning from the diamond.  Fire or dispersion, is the breaking of light into spectral colors.  Scintillation is sparkle associated with movement.  In recent years other descriptors have been added to enhance our understanding of diamond’s visual properties:  Contrast and Pattern describe the arrangement of light and dark areas resulting from reflections.  Leakage describes areas that do not reflect light back to the viewer.  Methods of performance assessment measure the light output of a diamond and compare it to established standards.

Well Suited To Any Shape

The facet arrangement of round diamonds permits meaningful analysis with simple proportions but fancy shapes are more complex and cannot be decisively predicted in this manner.  Performance evaluation is meaningful for every shape, as it reveals light output regardless of outer dimensions.  While measurements are still important to know, performance assessment is critical, especially for shapes other than round.

Natural Reflectors

In the 1970s a Japanese scientist named Okuda developed methods to study light performance using colored reflectors in magnified scopes.  By color-coding light entering the crown of the diamond he was able to track the amount of light returned properly to the viewer's eye.  Over the next 30 years other innovators developed such tools as the FireScope(TM) and the Gilbertson-Scope which were used to improve diamond cutting techniques.

Ideal-Scope

Natural reflector assessment was popularized at the turn of the century with Garry Holloway’s “ideal-scope,” a simple magnifying tube containing a red reflector.  An ideal-scope photograph shows what areas of a diamond will return light to the viewer’s eye and what areas will not.  Holloway's product has become a must-have for many internet diamond enthusiasts. 

Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool (ASET)

In 2005 the AGS introduced a similar tool, the Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool or ASET.  Based on the same principal, the ASET shows light return but with greater detail as light is color-coded 3 ways.

Mechanical Assessment

Mechanical devices have been developed to measure a diamond’s light output.  Imagem, Brilliancescope and Isee2 are among the most well-known.  These machines provide interesting information that may be useful in the big picture, but each gives different results on a diamond, depending on which company designed it.  BrillianceScope and Imagem were created to help stores sell diamonds, not for research or science.  For this reason they have met resistance from major laboratories and the science community.

We have tested mechanized/computerized light performance devices but have found none that give relevant and repeatable results.  We realize the value of the concept to consumers and may adopt such a machine when it’s made repeatable and the metric correlates to real-world lighting.  Until that time we endorse the same natural assessment techniques used by the world’s leading diamond cutters and laboratories.

Human Assessment

There are too many different illumination scenarios to try and capture all diamond beauty in simple or mechanical terms, but there is one performance assessment that has stood the test of time:  Analysis by a human being.  In all cases the “eyes” have it.  Numbers and pictures always give way to the eyes of a trusted expert and, more importantly, to the eyes of the one who will wear the diamond.

SUMMARY

If you’re shopping on the internet, finding diamonds with traditional ideal proportions is a fast way to locate good candidates.  Then you can use reflector images and other performance data to see which has the best light return.  Human observation should serve as final confirmation that you have made a great choice. 

Some sellers rely on proportions alone, whereas others will post lab reports, onsite measurements, magnified photos, and images of every diamond in a proven natural reflector to show its light output. 

Ideal-scope and ASET images are reliable, lab-endorsed methods of interpreting performance potential in a diamond.  We strongly believe in this form of assessment as it is a direct measure of the actual light performance. 

A positive by-product of Internet diamond sales is that consumers are becoming more educated about what makes a high quality diamond “tick.”  Remember that if you are looking in retail stores you should seek the same assessment data and documentation that you would expect on the internet.

GRADING LABORATORIES WE TRUST

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) bases cut grading on proportions. 

GIA uses a scale of 5 levels where the AGS system uses 11.  Predictably, the top GIA cut grade, “Excellent,” overlaps several AGS grades.  We caution clients that this wider range allows for configurations with proportions farther away from Tolkowsky’s and a number of steep/deep combinations where the diamond will appear smaller than its carat weight implies (Whiteflash will screen any such diamond from our inventory).  Additionally, GIA rounds some of the measurements on grading reports.  For this reason it is desirable to have a Helium or Sarin report for any GIA diamond, as it allows greater accuracy.

The GIA enjoys a global reputation for strictness in color, clarity and finish grading but allows more latitude in their grading of cut.

The American Gem Society (AGS) based cut grading on performance.

The AGS grades on a scale of 0 through 10.  Diamonds earning the top grade of 0 are considered “Ideal.”  Only a fraction of the world’s diamonds can earn this grade.  In 2005 the AGS introduced the industry's first scientific cut grade based on light performance, allowing cut grading for shapes other than round.  The AGS uses human analysis, angular spectrum (ASET) and a diamond-specific ray-tracing engine to determine the quantity and quality of light being returned to the viewer, in motion as well as in the face-up static position.  The AGS 0 ‘Ideal’ grade is the world’s strictest laboratory standard for cut.

Q:  Why are AGS-Graded diamonds so hard to find?

Simple.  Over 97% of all diamonds fail to meet AGS 0 ‘Ideal’ requirements.  This is why you’ll find commercial diamonds sent to labs with softer cut grading, or no cut grade at all.  We have evaluated the different systems and find the American Gem Society’s cut grading methods to confirm our approaches over many years, and the historical approaches of dedicated diamond cutters and diamontaires spanning generations.

>>Next: The 5th C - Confirmation

Before internet sales existed, shoppers always viewed diamonds under blazing jewelry store lights. In many ways diamonds sold themselves. Grading reports to confirm pedigree were afterthoughts. On the internet, the opposite is true: The online shopper is offered confirmation of performance and pedigree before ever seeing the diamond live. It’s a complete reversal.

At Whiteflash we provide enough proof and documentation for you to make a completely confident buying decision before you see the premium diamond we are sending to you. Additionally, with our 10-day return policy there is no risk: You will have the diamond in your hands for enough time to compare it ‘live’ with any others, and/or to have it fully appraised.

Whiteflash Confirmation

Expert Selection diamonds are supported by:

• AGS or GIA Laboratory Grading Report
• Sarin Diamension Proportions Scan
• Ideal-Scope Photograph
• Diamond Photograph Magnified 40x
• Expert Analysis
• Free Independent Verification
• 100% Lifetime Trade-Up Guarantee

Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows Diamonds also include:

• Guarantee of true optical symmetry meeting IDCC presentation criteria

Whiteflash diamonds are sent exclusively to the American Gem Society or Gemological Institute of America for grading. These are the world’s strictest and most reputable independent laboratories. Diamonds accompanied by their paperwork are more valuable than similarly graded diamonds from softer labs. Every Whiteflash ACA superideal Hearts & Arrows Diamond must earn the coveted AGS zero, or ‘Ideal’ grade, and is accompanied by their prestigious Diamond Quality Document

All diamonds in our inventory are accompanied by an onsite proportions scan. We perform this service as a complimentary verification of official measurements appearing on the AGS or GIA report. The Sarin DiaMension™ is used by every respected gemological laboratory in the world to efficiently and effectively grade thousands of diamonds a day. The DiaMension™ machine uses DiaVision™ software.

All diamonds in our inventory are photographed using a standardized ideal-scope system. An ideal-scope photograph creates a structured light environment and shows what areas of a diamond return light to the viewer’s eye and what areas do not. Our system utilizes the Ideal-scope RPS Tray and a 5000K color-corrected daylight backlighting source in a controlled studio. The Ideal-Scope was developed by Garry Holloway FGAA, DipDT, JAA Appraiser. As of 2005 the AGS is using a similar device for light performance assessment in its cut-grading system.

All diamonds in our inventory are photographed in a controlled studio using a standardized lighting environment at 40 power magnification. Our proprietary photographic technique allows assessment of natural face-up appearance far beyond normal vision, with focal depth that reveals detailed elements of the diamond’s facet construction.

* Please note: Diamonds are never seen at 40x magnification in jewelry stores unless a shopper is permitted to examine them under a microscope. Large computer monitors make this magnification even more exaggerated.

Performance can be predicted, but beauty cannot be defined by a set of numbers. When taste and opinion enter the equation there is no substitute for the eyes of a trusted expert. All diamonds, whether selected for inventory or specially sourced for our clients, are subject to expert analysis and approval. Senior Gemologist Bob Hoskins is a GIA Graduate Gemologist and was an AGS Certified Gemologist Appraiser of over 30 years, a past GIA Diamond Grader and past GIA colored stone instructor. Members of our team have been trained in GIA GG classes and are graduates of diamond grading courses. All told, our staff of experts has more than a combined century of experience in diamond design, cutting, grading, appraisal and professional education.

As an additional courtesy every purchase is inspected by an independent GIA Graduate Gemologist appraiser in the Houston area. A signed letter is issued to verify weight, color, clarity, laser inscriptions and setting details (if applicable), as well as an approximate retail value. This document is suitable for insurance in most cases, which we hope will be helpful to our customers. With the official grade from the AGS or GIA, detailed analysis by our in-house experts and this further check performed by the appraiser we have done everything in our power to document and authenticate the purchase.

* The letter of verification is intended as a courtesy, not as a substitute for a full third-party appraisal.

We believe so strongly in our diamonds that any Whiteflash diamond sold with an AGS or GIA grading report may be traded up by the buyer for a more expensive future purchase. The trade-up value will be for the full purchase amount of the original diamond. The diamond needs to be in its original undamaged condition and accompanied by its original certificate.

Whiteflash ACA Superideal Hearts & Arrows Diamonds Also Include:

Major labs do not grade Hearts & Arrows’ optical symmetry, but Whiteflash does. Our staff was selected to present grading standards for industry experts at the International Diamond Cut Conference in Moscow in April, 2004. Every Whiteflash ACA diamond is guaranteed to have H&A optical symmetry meeting the IDCC presentation criteria. It was hoped that laboratories and peers would make the decision to join us in promoting higher standards in the manufacturing and sales of H&A diamonds - but so far Whiteflash is the only seller to safeguard consumers with such a guarantee.

Our array of top cut grades, strict proportions, performance assessment, onsite expert analysis and verification are proof of highest quality. Mechanical light performance reports and deeper technical information are offered as interesting supplements, available to clients who request them - but should not be used to split hairs between closely matched diamonds.

Subtleties of beauty and taste in premium diamonds cannot be captured in mechanical terms. Numbers and scans give way to the eyes of a trusted expert and, more importantly, to the eyes of the one who will wear the diamond. To that end, the best confirmation of Whiteflash quality and service is proclaimed in the delighted testimonials of many thousands of satisfied clients who have built our reputation over the years.

Whiteflash Ratings indicate quality/value based on available measurements, polish & symmetry grades and performance data balanced with the price of the diamond. Our team has over a combined century of diamond cutting, lab grading, appraisal and professional education experience. All in-house diamonds have been analyzed firsthand. Outside diamonds available to us are rated based on available information (we cannot guarantee details of outside diamonds).

	5 Stars is our strictest rating. These diamonds meet highest standards for dazzling performance, superlative craftsmanship and total Visual Balance™. After cutting we evaluate and send such exquisite diamonds to the American Gem Society to earn unparalleled ‘Ideal’ grades in light performance, proportions, polish & symmetry.  Branded Whiteflash ACA, they stand at the pinnacle of the most elite diamonds produced.*
	4 Star ratings indicate our preferred balance of best performance, craftsmanship and value for the money. Some are Whiteflash ACA candidates that did not quite earn our strictest rating; an exceptional value.  Rounds in this category often have proportions meeting AGS and GIA standards for top performance.*
	3 Star ratings are near-premium diamonds which can perform at high levels for a lower price. Rounds in this category often have proportions meeting GIA standards for top performance. These diamonds represent great value without being held to the most rigorous analytic standards*
	2 Star ratings often indicate diamonds located with a supplier who has not provided enough data to make a decisive judgment.  This rating may change with more information.  Contact us for details.
	1 Star ratings may indicate diamonds located with a supplier who has not provided enough data to make a decisive judgment, or diamonds of below-average quality if all data is present.  This rating may change with more information.  Contact us for details.

* The WF Rating is based on our expertise. It is not a substitute for official laboratory grading.

At any point after you have purchased your diamond from Whiteflash.com, you may contact us to trade your diamond up for one of greater value.

• The trade up credit will be for the diamond's full purchase amount, less original shipping.
• Diamond needs to be in its original undamaged condition and accompanied by its original grading report.
• If original grading report has been misplaced, there is a $200 re-grading charge.
• Please note that EGL graded diamonds and outside diamonds we do not recommend will not qualify for our one year buy back or lifetime upgrade policy.
• Setting and applicable charges may apply.

Whiteflash Expert Selection (ES) diamonds

Many Expert Selection diamonds come from our Antwerp sightholder. Others come from different sources. Whiteflash selects each one to appear in our Houston inventory for a balance of distinctive beauty and pricing. Some ES diamonds may not be graded ideal in cut, but they are an ideal value. The purpose of ES is 'best value for the money.' Whiteflash has carefully chosen each diamond for beauty and quality to fit every budget. 

Our line of Expert Selection diamonds is an array of fancy shapes and exceptionally valued round brilliants.  Many of these are Whiteflash ACA candidates that missed branding by a very small margin; an exceptional value.  Rounds in this category often have proportions meeting AGS and GIA standards for top performance and fancy shapes are held to proven quality standards.  Some brilliants did not conform to the strict standards imposed on our Whiteflash ACA superideals, but may closely resemble Whiteflash ACA in appearance. Expert Selection diamonds represent a small percentage of the world’s best cut diamonds.  

Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows diamonds

Whiteflash ACA is the leading H&A diamond sold exclusively on the Internet, and remains the only H&A diamond with a guarantee of true optical symmetry. 

This is a level of cut precision far beyond ideal. After meeting proven AGS ideal parameters Whiteflash ACA is taken much further. Each is faithfully brillianteered so that all 57 facets line up perfectly with their opposites. It requires significantly more time, rough material and personal attention than other cuts. In every Whiteflash ACA the most minor facets are crafted to specific proportions. When all of these tiny mirrors are precisely brought into their most effective position the result is a brilliant superideal diamond where every facet is in sharp, focused alignment with the others. The crisp, true hearts and arrows patterning, and optimum light return through all lighting conditions is Whiteflash's design for best Visual Balance™. 

Many diamonds are beautiful and all diamonds sparkle well in bright jewelry store lights. This is because the sheer volume of light returned to the eye overpowers any fine-tuning of the cut. Whiteflash ACA diamonds go further. In diffuse office lighting and soft conditions like candlelight the crisply aligned mirrors in each Whiteflash ACA optimize even subtle or distant light so that it has life and performance where other diamonds do not. With these diamonds you will see broad flashes from across a restaurant in candlelight. It’s a logical result of every mirror inside the diamond working in harmony, and the crisp, true optical symmetry that is Whiteflash's signature. This level of fine-tuning is a marriage of old-world knowledge with new-world technology for maximum performance in a diamond. 

Whiteflash ACA diamonds are designed by Whiteflash and carefully cut by our Antwerp sightholder. Each Whiteflash ACA passes a set of rigorous tests for craftsmanship and light performance beyond the AGS ideal grade, and each is protected by our guarantee of top optical symmetry Fewer than one diamond in a million have hearts and arrows patterning and Whiteflash ACA stand with the most elite. They have been described as the most visually balanced diamonds in the world.  

A Third Option:  The virtual diamond database 

Another option we offer is access to the virtual diamond database that many vendors use. We use information provided by the supplier to determine it’s Whiteflash Diamond Rating (we cannot guarantee details of outside diamonds).  At Whiteflash we don’t believe in having a diamond drop-shipped to you from a supplier. We will never sell you a diamond without first bringing it for our own expert inspection and analysis to verify it meets advertised criteria.

All images are Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows Diamonds

In the 1980s Japanese cutters were the first to produce diamonds cut so exactly that facet reflections overlapped, creating kaleidoscopic patterns when seen through reflecting viewers. The techniques spread to other cutting houses and evolved. Hearts & Arrows diamonds reached the US in the mid 1990s. Top quality H&A diamonds are valued for their uniqueness and quality as the ultimate in cutting precision. They are sometimes called superideals.

 A Hearts & Arrows viewer is a reflecting optical symmetry tool. Looking through it you will see arrows radiating outward in the crown of a H&A diamond. Turn the diamond over and a circle of hearts appears in the pavilion. The arrows pattern may also be seen in light return viewers and some actual photography, but the H&A Viewer is the only tool that reveals hearts patterning. All facets must be precisely aligned to appear correctly. If any part of the diamond is even slightly asymmetric the patterns will be uneven or distorted.

US labs have no grading standards for optical symmetry, so examples of true H&A patterning are rare. H&A diamonds may have symmetrical cut, but not all are cut to ideal parameters and not all have optimum light return. As their popularity grows more factories attempt to produce them and standards have declined. If we regard the most acute level of optical symmetry as true hearts & arrows then examples of non-true hearts & arrows are much more commonplace.

Sometimes we are asked if a diamond with a top grade in 'symmetry' will show hearts & arrows.  The answer is no.  There is a difference between lab-graded symmetry and optical symmetry (read more here).

Whiteflash presented a grading system for optical symmetry at the International Diamond Cut Conference in Moscow in 2004. It was hoped that laboratories and peers would unite to maintain higher standards for manufacture of H&A as they have in Japan where the standard was set. Though laboratories do not offer a grade for Hearts & Arrows, Whiteflash does, and we are the only company to safeguard buyers with a guarantee of optical symmetry meeting the IDCC presentation criteria (read more here).

AGS 0 ‘Ideal’ Cut Grade Including Light Performance

Unlike round diamonds, the performance of fancy shapes cannot be predicted using only proportions or static reflector photography.  This is why no lab awarded a cut grade for princess cut diamonds until 2005, when the AGS introduced the industry’s first-ever scientific cut grade based on actual light performance.  The AGS uses human analysis and computer ray-tracing to determine the quantity and quality of light being returned to the viewer for each diamond, in motion as well as in the face-up static position.  The 0 ‘Ideal’ grade is the world’s strictest laboratory standard for cut. Every Whiteflash ACA Princess receives the coveted 0 ‘Ideal’ cut grade from the American Gem Society, exceeding the industry’s strictest standards in proportions, polish, symmetry and most important: direct light performance. 

Craftsmanship

The creation of a Whiteflash ACA begins with selection of premium diamond rough.  Every stage is approached with great detail.  Careful planning, cross-work and brillianteering see that every facet, even the most minor, is ideally polished into place.  To ensure each tiny mirror is precisely aligned with the others craftsmen must double check their work every few seconds.  Even the slightest deviation can affect the diamond’s ability to return light. 

If any detail falls outside of Whiteflash's tight tolerances the diamond will not be Whiteflash ACA It takes significantly more time and effort to produce a Whiteflash ACA diamond, but the extra effort is well worth it.  Today Whiteflash ACA is recognized as the most Visually Balanced™ diamond in the world.

Grading and Rarity

Most diamonds are not sent to the American Gem Society for grading, because more than 97% of round and princess cut diamonds fail to meet AGS 0 ‘Ideal’ requirements.  This is why you’ll find commercial diamonds sent to labs with softer grades, or no cut grade at all.

The GIA has a global reputation for strictness in color, clarity and finish but is behind the AGS in cut grading.  A princess cut diamond sent to the GIA may earn top grades in color and clarity but no cut grade or performance information will be reported.  GIA’s existing cut grading system (limited to rounds) is only two-dimensional.  To assess performance in fancy shapes a three-dimensional system like that of the AGS is necessary.

Diamonds can be sent to any lab for grading.  We have evaluated the different systems and find the American Gem Society’s cut grading methodologies to confirm our approaches over many years, and the historical approaches of diamond cutters and diamontaires over generations.  With regard to cut grading, AGSL is leaps and bounds ahead of other labs.

Whiteflash ACA

The success of Whiteflash ACA is a result of the most modern tools and craftsmanship in the industry.  All Whiteflash ACA diamonds are held to the same rigorous testing, analysis and grading standards:  We have been cutting our Whiteflash ACA Superideal Hearts & Arrows round brilliant diamonds to exceed all American Gem Society testing parameters for nearly a decade.  In 2005 the AGS upgraded their requirements, enforcing even stricter standards.  Whiteflash ACA continued to receive the highest possible marks on all measures, including the new light performance measure where commercial diamonds fall short.  Diamonds of Hearts & Arrows precision were introduced little more than 20 years ago.  Whiteflash pioneered the design specifics of Whiteflash ACA rounds and now the Whiteflash ACA Princess, and continues to set standards in the global diamond market.

 For Technical Q&A, see here: Whiteflash ACA Classic & New Line: Questions & Answers

There are two finishing styles used to brillianteer the girdle facets on Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows diamonds.  That is why you will sometimes hear them differentiated as Classic and New Line.  To untrained observers the tangible differences are very slight.  All Whiteflash ACA are cut with Visual Balance™ as a priority.  In terms of overall performance they stand side by side.  The untrained eye sees either as a dazzling diamond.

Of course, after studying, handling and playing with top performing diamonds one begins to make distinctions, much like a refined palate learns to sense differences in fine wines.  When Whiteflash clients view the styles together, they can see slight character differences once we elaborate on them.  They also confirm that both styles are at equal levels of beauty, and are perfectly happy with either. 

Which is Which?

 
The style of cutting may be identified in the ideal-scope photograph provided for every diamond we sell:  
 
ACA Classic are characterized by symmetrical points of contrast leakage along the girdle and at junctions where the upper girdle and star facets meet. 
 
Whiteflash ACA New Line are characterized by minimal light leakage in their ideal-scope photos.

 
The Visual Difference:  Brillianteering

All Whiteflash ACA are cut with Visual Balance™ as a priority.  This means we have maximized traditional qualities of brilliance and fire through the broadest possible range of lighting conditions, so the differences are observable only in the character of our diamonds’ scintillation and contrast.  These differences, while subtle, are intriguing.
 
ACA Classic have pronounced contrast, resulting in a fast, sharp, on-off quality to the scintillation. 
 
This style represent a marriage of modern Hearts & Arrows patterning with traditional diamond finishing techniques.  The upper girdle, crown and star facets are brillianteered with a balanced spread in their angular relationships.  Light returning to the viewer’s eye is splintered along these symmetrical paths and junctions at different angles, giving the intense, on-off look to the scintillation.  The sharper dispersion is beautiful in all illumination scenarios, with small pinpoint flashes that are especially intense in bright light conditions.
 
Whiteflash ACA New Line have a robust, broadfire scintillation that is described as fluid and colorful. 
 
With New Line the brillianteer uses a polishing strategy called painting, where the crown facets are lightly run on the wheel from star to girdle rather than girdle to star.  This approach results in upper girdle facet angles finished closer to the adjacent main crown and star angles.  Optimized light return flows easily across these closely matched angles, creating large, broadfire scintillation, described as fluid and colorful.  The  spectral colors erupting from these diamonds are especially notable in soft light conditions like candlelight, when your pupils are dilated.
 
All told, the number of buyers who concern themselves with the differences is a tiny percentage of diamond enthusiasts.   Classic and New Line Whiteflash ACA are at equal levels of craftsmanship and beauty.
 
We encourage everyone to have one of each.

Proposing is tough enough, but finding the perfect diamond engagement ring, set with the perfect diamond is even tougher. To eliminate the headache, here are step-by-step instructions from Whiteflash.com, an online diamond and jewelry boutique specializing in Hearts & Arrows diamonds and diamond engagement rings.

Educate yourself. Start the diamond education process by learning about the four Cs. “Understand how diamonds are evaluated and categorized,” says Debi Wexler, founder of Whiteflash.com. The four Cs refer to clarity, cut, color and carat, and by understanding each, Wexler says, you can determine which is most important to you and then start shopping. “This will also help you determine how much you’re willing to spend,” he adds.

Because diamond education is important when engagement ring shopping, Whiteflash.com offers an interactive DVD, which features an in-depth look at each of the four Cs.

Get input. Find out what she wants. Wexler says, “It’s better to be safe than sorry.” Take her to a jewelry store – that is, if marriage has been a topic of conversation and a surprise engagement is not on your agenda. “Have her try on as many rings as possible,” suggests Wexler. “Make her look at every shape of diamond and type of setting.” Another way to gauge whether she prefers pear-shaped over a princess cut diamond is have her look at bridal magazines like “The Knot” or “Brides” or at an online diamond expert’s site like Whiteflash.com. “Either way, you’ll know exactly what will make her swoon when you pop the question,” says Wexler.

If you’re being discreet, look at the jewelry she wears on a day-to-day basis; is it classic or vintage in style? Is she prone to wear larger pieces or dainty? The other option is to ask someone close to her, like a sister or a best friend, for insight.

Let’s talk carats. According to Wexler, as soon as you’ve decided shape, you need to look at the carat or weight of the diamond; carat is how diamonds and other precious gemstones are measured…in “carat” weight. One carat, for example, equals 1/5 of a gram. “We also refer to carat in points,” says Wexler. “There are 100 points in a carat and as points or carats increase, so does the price of the diamond.” For example, the price per carat will be less for a .90 diamond than the price per carat for a 1.00 diamond even if the color and clarity are the same. “Determining the size of the diamond, and then the cut and color is really going to help establish your budget parameters,” she says.
 
Pick a color. “Color is the third most important decision in the diamond selection process,” says Bob Hoskins, senior gemologist for Whiteflash.com. Diamond color is graded according to the Gemological Institute of America or GIA Color Grading Scale – D being the whitest, and N and below color ratings showing noticeable yellow tones. “E and F have no detectable color tones to the naked eye,” says Hoskins, who graded diamonds for the Gemology Institute of America (GIA) and taught several courses on colored stones. “And from G to J range, diamonds remain near colorless,” says Hoskins, “however, from J to M, you do begin to see a faint trace of yellow.”

Whiteflash ACA, an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows diamonds available only through Whiteflash.com, range in color from D to I. Because of their superior cut, ACA even ‘face-up’ appear whiter than their lab-assigned grade. “A great cut improves the apparent color of any diamond,” says Hoskins.

The cut and sparkle. Cut is the most important and perhaps the most misunderstood and controversial of the four Cs. “It’s about more than the shape of a diamond,” explains Hoskins. “When we talk diamond cut, we’re talking about the exact angles, proportions, symmetry and polish that affect the way the diamond reflects light and sparkles.” Diamond dealers also refer to cut as “make” – as it is the only feature of a diamond that can be controlled by man, and it must be precise. Each facet – or small plane surface on the diamond – must be cut to align perfectly with the facet opposite it. “There’s not much room for error,” says Hoskins, “because this affects the diamond’s ability to sparkle, or what we call in the industry…brilliance.”

How important is clarity? Gemologists use a grading scale set forth by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) to determine a diamond’s clarity – how clean the gem appears when viewed through a magnifier. Most diamonds contain some “inclusions” – crystalline fractures or irregular crystal growth.  The Gemological Institute of America GIA Clarity Grading Scale ranges from Internally Flawless (IF) through included (I3). Flawless (F) and Internally Flawless (IF) being the highest, with the next best grade being VVS1 and 2 or very slight inclusions followed by VS1 and 2, referring to very slight inclusions, which according to Hoskins, “are difficult to see even with magnification.”

SI1 and 2 diamonds will have slight inclusions, which are easily seen through magnification, but may remain clean to the naked eye, depending on the specific diamond. Hoskins says grades I1, I2 and I3 indicate inclusions that are visible under magnification and also to the naked eye. “The clarity of the stone you purchase will depend on your level of comfort and budget,” he says. His advice: Inclusions are more difficult to see in ideal cut and super ideal cut diamonds, because of the exactness in the cut.

Establish a budget. After determining the four Cs, you should be able to set a budget or at least have a figure in mind for the purchase of your diamond engagement ring. The general rule of thumb is to set aside two months worth of salary. “If you’re hesitant to set a dollar amount, look at your options in diamonds and settings to get a general idea of what you’d like to spend,” advises Hoskins.

Select a jeweler. You have more options than the local jeweler around the corner. There are independently owned boutiques, national chains and now with the Internet revolution … online diamond boutiques like Whiteflash.com. No matter whom you buy from, make sure the jeweler is reputable and affiliated with the American Gem Society (AGS). “If you’re unsure of the jeweler’s credibility, check with the local Better Business Bureau,” suggests Wexler. “You can also test how knowledgeable the staff is about diamonds, look into customer reviews and look over the company’s return and repair policies … this is important.”

Time to shop! Before you place the order, make sure that you will receive a grading report with your purchase. “If a grading report will not accompany your diamond engagement ring, make sure the sale is contingent upon an independent appraiser’s opinion,” advises Wexler. Another option is to ask for a fingerprint of the diamond. This is a three-dimensional drawing of the diamond indicating the four Cs, along with the stone’s overall dimensions and enhancements. Inclusions and blemishes should be noted. “As soon as you receive the diamond, double-check all of the information, including the bill of sale and drawing to make sure that it is, in fact, the diamond you purchased,” finishes Wexler.

When purchasing from an Whiteflash ACA diamond, customers receive the gem’s certification and a signed letter of verification from an independent graduate gemologist appraiser for insurance purposes.  We refer to all of this as "the 5th C - Confirmation."

Set the diamond. If you purchased a loose diamond, you’re now faced with the setting. And, like diamonds, the options for diamond engagment rings are endless. Consider three stone settings, a solitaire or a custom design. Both Wexler and Hoskins suggest allowing four to six weeks before popping the question if you go the handcrafted route. If you’re simply lost in the decision making process -- propose with diamond in-hand and pick out the setting later -- together!

About Whiteflash.com

Whiteflash.com is the first company in the U.S. to offer an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur, founded Whiteflash.com in 1999 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows diamonds. Whiteflash ACA is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. Whiteflash.com also offers original, handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands and custom designed jewelry. For more information, log on to www.whiteflash.com or call 877.612.6770.

 Diamond Engagement Rings | Diamond Solitaire Rings
 Princess Cut Diamonds | Diamond Education

Professionals in the diamond industry hear warnings about "commoditization" at our trade conventions.  We hear the warnings from traditionalists, from sellers and suppliers, from revered industry leaders.  We hear the warnings from some of the most esteemed icons of the diamond industry.  But what does it mean?

It is about the reduction of an emotional experience to a mere set of numbers.  That is the concern.

For many years diamond cutters were considered craftsmen and artists, like blacksmiths and carpenters (the best still are).  As technology has moved forward, blacksmiths and carpenters have been replaced with automated manufacture.  In diamond-cutting, auto-dialits and assembly line production have replaced the gray-haired cutter of old who took the rough through every step from blocking to brillianteering.  However, the unalterable difference between 'smithing and diamond fashioning is that producing a diamond will never be like stamping out automobiles or pre-fabricated woodwork where pieces and parts are interchangeable.  Our craft is unique.

Every piece of diamond rough took millions of years to form.  Every diamond is a different story.  Once mined from the earth each piece of rough is individually studied and analyzed.  A different plan is developed for each piece to arrive at the shape, size and beauty that will be yielded.  No two diamonds are perfectly alike; not in rough form nor polished.  They may be comparable, but color, clarity and even cut differ from piece to finished piece.  There are subdivisions within each color grade.  There are microscopic elements of crystallization within each diamond that do not appear on a plot.  There are aspects to the way the diamond was run on the wheel and took a polish that blend together to create its distinctiveness when finally viewed.

As we know, the cut of a diamond has the largest influence on its overall performance and can be expressed in differing terms.  Proportions, cut estimators, 3D scans, natural reflectors and machines like Imagem and BrillianceScope can assign numbers.  But numbers will never tell the story of the diamond's birth, its crystallization over millions of years and the blending together of distinctive elements WITHIN the numbers that make it one-of-a-kind.

Traditionalists emphasize that a finished diamond is both a snowflake and an artist's masterpiece.  Its uniqueness is absolute; both in nature and in the treatment man has given it.  It can never be replicated - and its singular, irreplaceable distinctiveness is the perfect expression for a giver, and the most its wearer could ever hope for.

The traditionalists are right of course.

Now there is concern among diamond traditionalists that by reducing a diamond to a data stream we take away its romance.  We remove its symbolic appeal, distinctiveness that can be measured only by the human eye and a history larger than life - and replace them with charts and graphs.

The information age has provided us with the ability to analyze the art of man and nature.  We have powerful tools for measurement and analysis.  We can place a number beside every diamond facet.  We can take analytic photographs at unreal magnifications.  We have black boxes that assign values.  For trade and factory analysts these things can empower more understanding and the ability to maximize beauty at the source.  Certainly there are hundredths of degrees which can help our scientific understanding.  However, any professional will tell you that once a diamond is within an acknowledged premium range the nuances of its specific appeal depend entirely on individual human taste and preference.  To make such fine judgments, beauty can only be in the eyes of the beholder.

Let us consider the most important people, our clients:  For those who will give and receive nature's creation, crafted into shape by man's hand, we should provide technical validation to put them at ease.  But for the sake of our trade we have a responsibility to put less emphasis on a decimal point and be more sensitive to our clients' appreciation for the emotional aspect of the diamond - which was his or her motivation for purchase in the first place!

Let us not convert someone shopping for a work of art & love into someone shopping for a tenth of a degree on crown facet number 8.  To do so reduces the emotional experience to a math problem and reduces the meaningfulness of the service our trade can provide to our clients.

A healthy marriage of lab grading, parametric data and direct performance assessment should be enough for even the internet diamond shopper's desire for pedigree.  By all means, provide validation our clients need to be comfortable in a purchase, but ultimate beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  It is important for us to remember that when all is said and done it will be sparkle, not statistics, which cause the wearer to love the piece.

With internet purchases, the most common clarity question:  'Is it eye clean?'  There are no industry definitions, so each person or institution must set his/her own and communicate the definition accordingly.  Our definition of eye-clean is:

'No inclusions visible face-up at a distance of 8-10 inches in natural lighting to a person with 20/20 vision.'

Why?

We believe lighting, vision and distance are critical elements when arriving at a working definition.  AGS chose their close observation point or "distance of most distinct vision" at 25cm (9.8 inches).  It is the near point of accommodation - the distance at which focus is attained without strain - for a majority of humans.  In very young people and in those with nearsightedness this distance is less.  This near point recedes with age, possibly causing farsighted condition.  Therefore, 8-10 inches is a logical and reasonable distance of judgment for our purposes.  However you define it though, a working understanding and communication between buyers, sellers and appraisers is critical.

Internet Shopping and Clarity

When Internet shopping, you will likely be looking at high quality magnified photos. Remember that no one ever sees a diamond at 40x magnification when they walk into a jewelry store, unless they are permitted to see that diamond under a microscope. A large computer monitor makes that 40x photo even more revealing.

If you’re going photo-happy (have viewed so many you may be losing perspective) try this: Take a mm ruler and place it on your screen. Measure the picture on the monitor and then consider the actual size of your diamond, from the documentation. This will give an idea of the virtual compared to the reality.

Interpretations Vary by Distance, Study & Eyesight

There are dissembling interpretations of eye-clean.  Scrutiny after studying an inclusions plot, or prolonged close study can be revealing (even with VS), but these are not normal viewing conditions.  For that matter, someone who is nearsighted or has 'radar vision' may see more than others.  That's okay.

Unless you carry a grading report with you or stand holding your diamond a few inches from peoples' eyes the normal viewing distance is a few feet, perhaps closer when you show it to someone on request.  Diamonds other than earrings are rarely closer than 25cm from viewers' eyes, and for an earring to be that close it needs to be someone adjacent to the viewer (like the stranger next to you on the elevator).

When searching for the 'eye-clean SI deal,' know that every SI diamond varies, as do 'eye-clean' definitions.  Ultimately the shopper's interpretation is the one that matters.  When purchasing without having seen the diamond, know both your interp and the seller's interp.  It also helps to keep the grade in perspective.  Bargains may be found, but remember that ultimately there's a reason it was graded SI and not VS.  Someone who wants the diamond to pass every distance, eyesight and study test offered should probably focus on VS goods or better to be certain it meets his own 'eye-clean' interpretation.

Taste

Just as taste runs differently with peoples' color perceptions (some like the crisp, cold look of a D, while others prefer more warmth) there is clarity perception defined by individual taste.  While many people seek eye-clean, others will shoot above and below that line of judgment, and should not be criticized for having a different flavour in mind:

Some individuals place high personal value on a flawless diamond and will not consider anything else due to religious or personal beliefs.  Others find that the security and pedigree of VVS/VS suits them, and are not comfortable considering SI goods.  No one except the purchaser can determine what he or she needs.  The clean SI 'deal' is attractive, price-wise, but if you find yourself obsessing on clarity pureness (or just nervous about SI in general) consider that VS could be a better fit for you, personally.

Along those lines there is another inclusion point that is rarely voiced:   For some people an inclusion makes a diamond more distinctive.  It can serve to identify or even 'romance the stone.'  Just as taste runs differently with color, we field requests for diamonds with distinctive inclusions sometimes.

On the whole, clarity is a person-sensitive issue, much like color.  Interpretation and taste come into play for each person.  Individuals differ in their level of clarity comfort and needs.  Our definition of Eye-Clean is a working baseline that allows us to meet the needs of every individual seeking a brilliant diamond buying experience.

Clarity enhancement techniques include laser drilling and fracture filling. The AGS and GIA will not accept fracture-filled diamonds for grading. They will grade laser drilled diamonds but the FTC requires that it be noted on the grading report. 

Whiteflash will not sell clarity or color enhanced diamonds.

Laser Drilling

Laser drilling was developed in the 1980s. An infrared laser is used to bore fine holes into a diamond in order to selectively target and remove inclusions, or reduce their visibility. This improves the diamond’s apparent clarity grade. After the inclusion is reached by the boring laser the diamond is placed in sulfuric acid to dissolve the target crystal or staining. Sometimes an inclusion within a diamond is a diamond itself and not vulnerable to this process. The diamond material removed during the drilling process is often replaced with glass infilling, using the technique described below.

Fracture Filling

Fracture filling was also developed in the 1980s by a company called Yehuda but did not becomecommon until the 1990s. In this process small cracks, or feathers, in a diamond are filled witha molten, glass-like resin thathas the same optical properties as the diamond. This makes the cracks almost invisible to the eye andimproves the diamond’s apparent clarity grade. The weight and color are not affected, but you can often see this type of treatment in what is called the "flash" effect: When the diamond is tilted back and forth there areunique color changesthat occur in a flashing manner.

Practicality

Clarity enhancement may allow a buyer to get a larger, cleaner diamond than he/she could normally afford. However there are durability issues: Repeated cleaning, re-polishing or repair procedures for jewelry that expose the diamond to heat might damage or remove the filling. There are companies other than Yehuda offering treatment, but Yehuda is best known and historically offers the strongest guarantee: If the treatment is damaged or falls out they will fix the diamond for free.

Color grades are not absolute. Two diamonds with the same grade can appear very different, depending on which labs did the grading, cut quality, shape, size and other important particulars. Since we don’t wear a tag boasting the color of the diamond it’s important to know what factors may influence the color a viewer will see.

Laboratory Grading

It’s most important to know that laboratories don’t enforce the same standards. Diamonds graded by the AGS and GIA are held to the highest and most consistent standards, but you might not be comparing apples to apples when looking at diamonds graded elsewhere: An F from a second tier lab may actually be a G or an H if GIA standards were enforced. In fact many commercial sellers purposely send their diamonds to a softer lab because the ‘paper’ looks better. This means they can sell average diamonds for higher prices. This applies to clarity and cut as well (read more).

Cut Quality

Diamonds in the D-Z range are color-graded upside down, viewed from the side. This is because the way a diamond is cut may have an influence on face-up color. Diamonds can be cut for top light return, where almost all light entering the crown reflects from the pavilion at precise angles back to the viewer’s eyes. Such well-cut diamonds entrap less body color and have increased brilliance, dispersion and scintillation. This is most observable in premium rounds because their circular shape and brilliant faceting style maximize light return and performance qualities. Rounds in the top few percent of the world’s cut quality often appear more colorless face-up than their lab-assigned grade.

Different Shapes

Some shapes other than round may benefit from cut quality as well. The princess incorporates aspects of the brilliant style, so its face-up appearance can be positively influenced. Step cuts like the emerald have longer facets and show less color at shallow depths. Their face-up appearance can be influenced by cut but not as much as shapes with brilliant faceting. The design of the radiant entraps body color more than other shapes. While it’s possible to cut a radiant so that it doesn’t entrap color the style in general is conducive to showing color. This is why many fancy colored stones are cut as radiants. The corners and shoulders of fancies may show color more than the center of the stone. This is because those areas don’t benefit from improved light return as much as the body of the shape does.

Fluorescence

The GIA conducted a 1997 study showing fluorescence is a non-factor in most diamonds and in others it helps face-up appearance. Medium blue fluorescence and stronger may be a benefit to near-colorless diamonds (GHIJ) and below. Fluorescence of a color other than blue should be questioned as it will not usually help color appearance unless in a diamond is of the same color. Strong or very strong fluorescence can give a soft hazy ‘glow’ in sunlight, which some enthusiasts seek for its appeal. A tiny percentage of diamonds with very strong fluorescence appear milky or oily, but this is rare. Always consult a professional who has the diamond in-hand with questions.

Size

Large diamonds have greater body volume and logically show more color than their smaller counterparts, especially as color gets lower. Premium cut quality can benefit larger stones.

Cleanliness

Diamonds are natural grease attracters. A dirty pavilion changes a diamond’s appearance, so once handled by several people it may not be at its best. Over time dirt and even metal from tweezers can become lodged in bruted girdles. Shoppers don’t need to worry about this, but appraisers may one day find their bruted master stone set is in need of an acid boil (the only way to clean a dirty bruted girdle).

Lighting & Environment

Jewelry store spotlights are not good for color and clarity judgments. Subtleties of color, along with any fine tuning of the cut, are overwhelmed by the sheer volume of light coming from the stone. To judge color realistically a diamond must be removed from direct lighting. A practical environment for assessment is diffuse lighting, such as the fluorescent lights found in office buildings. Remember that diamonds absorb the color of their surroundings. This is why diamond graders wear white lab coats and grade against a white background under fluorescent tubes.

Setting

One mounted a diamond will show less color than it did loose. Remember that the choice of setting may influence your diamond’s color. If you choose a gold setting and have a colorless diamond the diamond may absorb and reflect back some of the setting color.

Human Perception

There are 23 descending color grades and the increasing hints of color are very slight. When diamonds are mounted and dynamic it becomes very hard to differentiate between several colors. All else being equal, the difference between one or two grades is not noticeable to most humans. Of course, the ability to perceive differences varies among people and can be influenced by such things as fatigue and even the yellowing of one’s corneas with age. Differences are even harder to see when the diamonds are mounted and worn. Diamonds a few color grades apart, identical in all qualities except color, may be indistinguishable when worn separately. Even the most color sensitive person may not detect a difference unless they are set next to each other in neutral lighting and studied closely.

Color and Pricing

Although descending color grades are subtle price differences are not. They jump most notably when you cross the line from near-colorless to colorless. The reason for the price jump is not necessarily because of a visible difference; it is because colorless diamonds are more rare, so you're paying for the rarity, not a "better" looking diamond.

To some people one or two grades matters a lot. To others, it matters not at all. Color and clarity tolerances are very personal, subjective matters - with no wrong decisions.

The Internet and Color

If you’re shopping on the internet you can’t make color determinations with imagery or photos. It may be possible to see how diamond A appears in direct comparison with diamond B (as long as they are side by side in the same photo against a neutral background) but decisive judgments are impossible due to differences in camera settings, monitors and software. It’s best to speak with a trusted expert who has the diamond in hand to tell you reliably how the diamond appears.

Artificial Color Enhancement

Artifical color enhancement, or High Pressure High Temperature treatment (HPHT) is a process where a diamond is irradiated to improve its color. Many sellers trade only natural diamonds and do not deal in those with color or clarity enhancements. Sellers who do are required to disclose the fact that they were so treated.

Fancy Colors

Unlike diamond on the D-Z scale, fancy colored stones are graded face-up to best judge their hue, tone and saturation. Also different is the fact that such stones are cut to ENTRAP as much body color as possible. Many colored stones are cut in square shapes and fancy colored round diamonds typically have proportion sets steeper or shallower than commonly agreed on ‘ideal’ proportions. This causes light to pass through the stone, nicely illuminating the color but not washing it out. This is why top cutters caution against steep/deep combinations in D-Z shapes: In addition to appearing smaller for their weight, such proportions sets entrap body color more readily.

About Whiteflash.com

Whiteflash.com is the first company in the U.S. to offer an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur, founded Whiteflash.com in 1999 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows diamonds. Whiteflash ACA is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. Whiteflash.com also offers original, handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands and custom designed jewelry. For more information, log on to www.whiteflash.com or call 877.612.6770.

Coatings are not permanent and are typically done to deceive the buyer. The diamond may be coated with a substance to mask yellowish tint or have an area of dark ink painted strategically under the setting to counteract the yellowish color. Some coatings may be applied with heat but will eventually rub off with normal wear and cleaning.

Color Enhancement

The most well-known color enhancements are HPHT and Irradiation. Although color enhanced diamonds may be accepted by the GIA for grading, the FTC requires that such treatments be disclosed on the grading report.  The AGS will not grade color enhanced diamonds.

Whiteflash will not sell color or clarity enhanced diamonds.

High Pressure / High Temperature Treatment (HPHT)

General Electric developed the High Pressure/High Temperature (HPHT) annealing method for artificially influencing a diamond’s natural color. It was first used to turn yellowish diamonds into fancy colored diamonds, but now it is also used to improve the color of unpopular yellowish-brownish diamonds.

In 1999 the GIA began accepting these diamonds for grading. They were involved in research with GE at the time. The Federal Trade Commission requires that HPHT must be disclosed, so GIA notes "HPHT Annealed" or "Artificially Irradiated" on grading reports when it is detected. The diamonds themselves are laser-inscribed with the words "HPHT Processed," "Irradiated" or a specific registered name so there is full disclosure. "GE POL"has been inscribed on Bellataire diamonds.

GIA’s reasoning is as follows: "/diamonds_info.by grading them in the lab, we were able to indicate that they were HPHT annealed on their reports (and on the diamonds themselves). Our “greater good” goal was to protect the trade and the public by protecting the integrity of all diamonds/diamonds_info."

Click here for the Full GIA Article

Whether such diamonds should be considered 'treated' is a controversial issue. The Bellataire diamond began as GE/POL (General Electric/Pegasus Overseas Ltd). Bellataire developed a marketing campaign proclaiming that the annealing process was ‘restoring’ diamonds to their natural color, rather than artificially influencing their existing color. Bellataire maintains that since the GIA does not issue grading reports on treated diamonds theirs don't fall into this category. They generally hold the minority opinion: Many view such color treatment as an unnatural enhancement, like clarity enhancements (laser drilling & fracture filling).

More on GE-processed diamonds

Irradiation

Usually associated with fancy colors, exposing the diamond to radioactivity can turn brown and yellow diamonds into green, vivid yellow, blue, purple, red and other colors. Afterwards, high heat treatment may be used to stabilize the new color. This is usually permanent, but could possibly change if high heat is used again in the future; during setting repairs for instance. Only a small percentage of diamonds can be successfully improved using these methods.

Whether you are a fan or not - as long as treatments are disclosed it's up to the buyer to decide if it is acceptable, and to enjoy wearing the diamond.

Diamond Rough

How a diamond is formed?

Diamonds were formed in the earth thousands of years ago under extreme heat and pressure. This extreme heat and pressure in the earth transformed the carbon into crystals and turned it colorless. Although diamonds formed deep in the earth, volcanic activity is what brought them to the surface. Hence, these volcanic pipes have diamonds in them. Over time, as some other minerals mix with carbon the diamond may takes on color.  Most diamonds have some hint of yellow or brown in them.  Others that did not mix with minerals are colorless.  Some diamonds undergo dramatic changes to vivid or unique colors.  These are very rare and valued more than normal diamonds.

Where are diamonds mined?

Alluvial deposits on riverbanks in India, and then Brazil, were mined to supply Europe through the 1700s. Alluvial diamonds were found in Africa in the late 1800s.  An alluvial deposit is a buildup of alluvium, or sediment.  Diamonds in volcanic pipes were first located in Kimberley South Africa in 1869. Over the next century thousands of thus-named “kimberlite” pipes were developed in Africa and Russia. In 1976 a diamond-bearing lamproite pipe was found in Australia (the Argyle mine) and in the 1990s the Ekati kimberlite was found under a Canadian lake, which has led to the location of other diamondiferous fields in Canada.  Today the most significant diamond producers are Africa, Russia, Australia and Canada. Asia and South America are also commercially important. Alluvial diamonds are mined in riverbed, coastal and deep sea operations and hard rock diamonds are mined using an open pit or underground process.

How diamonds are priced?

Diamonds are valued by their Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat weight. You should remember the C's that are used to value diamonds. Cut, Color, and Clarity are used to measure the quality of the diamond and the final C, which is Carat, is used to measure the size of the diamond. Man creates cut in a diamond and the other C's are formed in nature. Smart shoppers will also keep another C in mind: Confirmation, which depends on what the manufacturer and seller offer.

What types of diamonds are there?

When minerals mix with diamond in nature, it gives the diamond color. Based on the type of mineral that is mixed, we can classify the diamonds. The following are colors that are found.

• Yellow: this color is formed when Nitrogen combines with diamond crystals.
• Brown: Dislocation in the lattice of atoms causes brown coloring.
• Blue: During the formation of the diamond if elements of Boron are mixed then the diamond may take on blue coloring.
• Green: Green is caused due to a missing atom in the lattice of atoms.
• Pink: Dislocations in the lattice, missing atoms and some impurities that are non-nitrogen cause pink color.

The Huff Test
Hold the stone in question next to a diamond and "huff" on them with your hot breath. Both stones will fog up. The diamond will clear up rapidly, while a CZ will take a little longer. This is due to diamond's greater thermal conductivity.

The Flash Test
When a CZ is upside down and backlit (light coming through the crown, viewed from the pavilion side) its pavilion facets will often "flash" orange.

The Weight Test
CZ is 80% heavier than diamond. Hint: This will show up pretty fast when she's comparing items with her friends.

The RI Water Test
Put the CZ a glass of water, along with a diamond. A CZ (with a 2.2 refractive index versus diamond's 2.42) will appear more "transparent" than a diamond. It will look more "washed out", or "ghostlike" compared to a diamond.

The Dispersion Water Test
In a dark room, put the stone in question in the bottom of a glass alongside a diamond, face down. Lift the glass up a couple inches, and shine a flashlight down on them vertically from above. Diamond has a dispersion of 0.44, while CZ's is 0.66, 50% more. You will see a circular pattern of light images under the stones which has been "stretched out" into a rainbow spectrum. If one of the stones is a CZ, its rainbow spectrum will be 50% longer, more "stretched out" than a diamond. The difference in look is obvious.

The Give It As An Engagement Ring Test
Give the stone in question to your fiancée as an engagement ring. If she throws it back in your face within 24 hours, it is a CZ/diamonds_info.  This is the most decisive test of all of them.

1650: Cardinal Mazarin designed the first cross-cut diamond, which was the beginning of the brilliant style of cutting. In the early 1700s the Portuguese diamond cutter Peruzzi refined the first 58 facet brilliant cut. This style slowly evolved throughout the 1800s, known first as the old-mine cut and later as the old-European cut. These cuts still followed the contours of the rough diamond in order to retain as much weight as possible.

1860: Henry Morse opens a diamond cutting firm in Boston. By 1880 he is recutting traditional old-European cut diamonds without regard for weight loss to produce the most beautiful round brilliant of his time.

1919: Marcel Tolkowsky’s brilliant cut emerges along with his published thesis. This work becomes the standard by which future cuts of the round brilliant, including the American Ideal Cut are fashioned.

1930: Lazare Kaplan (First cousin to M. Tolkowsky) begins cutting diamonds to Tolkowsky ideal proportions.

1931-34: Robert Shipley, the educator who popularized gemology in America, founds the GIA and the AGS.

1939: GIA launch the Gem Trade Laboratories (GTL) issuing diamond certificates for color, clarity & carat weight which are still used today (pending the 2005 GIA grading system).

1946: Robert Shipley makes the distinction between brilliance and scintillation in the GIA course material.

1953: Richard T. Liddicoat develops and refines a complete grading system for diamonds that include a system for evaluating cut.

1955: The AGS Diamond Standards Committee is established.  Originally a colorimetry committee, the members develop a 0-10 scale for grading diamond cut over the next decade.

1960's: AGS produces the Diamond Grading Standards manual. It undergoes many revisions over the next 30 years.

1996: AGS Laboratories open and begin grading, including cut grading for the round brilliant.  Based on external proportions, the system undergoes slight revisions over the next decade.  Two reports are offered: The Diamond Quality Document (DQD) which includes a grade for cut and the Diamond Quality Report (DQR) which does not.

2005: AGS Laboratories introduces an updated DQD with cut grading based on light performance.  This cut grading system is also offered for the Princess Cut (the old proportions-based DQD is still offered for rounds to give the industry time to adapt to the new system).

2006: GIA laboratories introduces cut grading for the round brilliant.  Based on proportions, it includes more evaluative factors than the old AGS proportions-based system.

2007: AGS Laboratories stops offering the old proportions-based DQD for rounds.  Introduces cut grading for the Emerald Cut (forthcoming).

The Evolution of the Superideal Round Brilliant

In the 1970s and 80s Japanese gemologists and scientists became engaged in micro-studies of diamond cut. A scientist names Kazumi Okuda was key in the development of tools for research using colored reflectors. The Okuda Diamond Grading Microscope and the small, red-ringed “Zeiss” proportions loupe were among the first tools used to observe the precision of facet placement in diamonds. Okuda was contracted by another researcher, Tsuyoshi Shigetomi, to develop a reflector tool which eventually became a device called the Firescope in 1984. In 1985 a cutter named Kioyishi Higuchi produced the first Eightstar diamond for a Japanese businessman named Takanori Tamura using the Firescope. The Eightstar diamond was cut with emphasis on acquiring minimum light leakage and pronounced crown symmetry, or ‘arrows,' and set a new benchmark in craftsmanship as the first branded 'Superideal' diamond.

The Firescope was the first device which permitted a display of the optical performance of all 57 facets of the round brilliant. Since that time, the Gilbertson-scope (1998), Ideal-scope (2001), SymettriScope (2003), ASET (2005) and others have evolved and serve similar purposes in the analysis of light performance.

In the late 1980s Shigetomi created a copy of the Eightstar diamond he called Apollon 8, a brand that did not last. One of his associates, Kinsaku Yamashita, bought the brand and renamed the cut Hearts and Arrows. Yamashita also patented the Hearts & Arrows viewer in 1990. Somewhat different than the Firescope, this device allows the viewer to analyze the physical cut symmetry and alignment of facets in both the pavilion and crown of a diamond. It does not show optical performance; just optical symmetry and contrast effects. Shortly thereafter, the first ‘Hearts & Arrows’ diamond was produced in Japan.

In the 1990s Super Ideal cuts reached America. Since that time standards for precision patterning have continued to evolve with developing technologies and improved tools. The round brilliant diamond has been around for over 100 years but the precision patterning found in Superideal diamonds has been possible for less than 20.

In trade terms, a 'Superideal' diamond is one cut to near-Tolkowsky proportions with an extremely high level of optical symmetry.  Unlike some commercial diamond which show a semblance of patterning as a result of good manufacture, true 'Superideal' diamonds are not 'happy accidents.'  Those of the highest caliber are finished with true, impeccable precision as a priority, on-purpose.

What’s so Super about Superideal?

Superideals are all about maximized performance. The broad strokes include crown and pavilion angles close to Tolkowsky’s - still considered optimum for a round brilliant. This is where most “Ideal” cut diamonds stop. Super Ideal Diamonds go even deeper. Modern tooling and extra time spent eventually result in precise three-dimensional optical symmetry, where every adamantine facet is brought into optimum alignment with its opposite. This means that all of the ‘mirrors’ are precisely, kaleidoscopically brought into their most effective position.

Going even deeper, there are some Super Ideal Diamonds where seldom-discussed minor facets (lower girdles and stars) are shaped to specific proportions: The precise length and width relationships of these tiny mirrors can be harmonized for dynamic performance through the broadest range of lighting conditions.

This level of fine-tuning is a result of world-class cutters marrying old-world knowledge with new-world technology in pursuit of maximum performance in a diamond.

Poor Marketing

Marketing of Super Ideal Diamonds was driven by symbolism rather than performance when they were introduced in America. Much of that continues to this day due to origins, and the fact that the public-at-large does not have a command of diamond knowledge necessary to understand the optical benefits of patterning.

The symbolism is traceable back to Eightstar diamonds in Japan. The arrows pattern was seen as both the octagram of the I Ching and the Rinbo of Buddhism. It was said that the pattern bore a resemblance to the eight-spoked wheel of dharma, associated with spiritual perfection in the Buddhist faith. From that standpoint this pattern, and the subsequent Hearts & Arrows pattern that evolved, are products of a quest for perfection in precision and beauty in a diamond. Not everyone considers the patterns to have symbolism, but there is a great deal of importance placed on them in other cultures. Many of the diamond engagement rings sold in Japan are Hearts & Arrows.

Logically, when precision patterning reached America the emphasis on symbolism had already established itself in the minds (and cultures) of the makers. As a result, marketing efforts played up the “cute” aspect of neat little Hearts & Arrows. That approach continues in the mainstream to this day… And why not? When was the last time you walked into a traditional jewelry store and the salesman discussed Tolkowsky proportions and patterning? The public at-large does not know the difference between a diamond with a nice 40.8 PA or an undesirable 41.3, and that is a merely a surface aspect.

Therefore, mass-marketing of precision patterning still relies on the “cute H&A” moniker for the present.

Performance

Any round cut for optimum light return should have a robust balance in its light return. The benefits of patterning depend largely on lighting conditions and surroundings.

Almost any diamond will perform well in direct light, particularly the spotlighting you see in common jewelry stores. You see much brilliance (WLR) and dispersion (fire, DCLR, or chromatic/colored flashes) as well. The balance of these depends on the cut, but since so much light is entering and exiting the stone the 'fine-tuning' of what you see does not impact your eye as much as the sheer 'volume' does.

Well patterned diamonds begin to separate themselves in diffuse light. A cloudy day or an office with fluorescent lights is typically an environment in which you will see less dispersion (fire or DCLR). Well-cut diamonds return white light well, so the diamond can appear very bright, but the amount of fire you will see is often muted in this lighting condition. Scintillation is also muted in diffuse light, but a diamond with great patterning has more elements of DCLR through a normal range of tilt (AGS calls this dynamic fire) due to optimization & contrast.

Soft light, such as candlelight, lantern, computer monitor in a dark room, or many small distant light sources, is where precision patterning in a diamond really stands out. When alignment of the facets is optimized and minor facet construction is of a design that is well-balanced these diamonds maximize the return of all available light they are taking in. These are the sparklers in which you will see broad flashes from a diamond on someone's finger across a restaurant in candlelight. It’s a logical result of all of the facets, the mirrors inside the diamond, working in harmony.

Value

Those who have made an informed decision to buy a H&A diamond will say they are worth the premium – and that they see the subtle differences outlined here.

Those who have made an informed decision not to buy a H&A diamond will say they are not worth it - and that they do not see the subtle differences outlined here.

‘Experts’ fall on both sides of the line.

It comes down to a matter of perception, personal taste and values. On a casual level any diamond that is well-cut is going to be wonderful, plain and simple. Among the millions of diamonds walking the globe you may rarely compare or care about the fractional optimization or ‘subtle insight’ of precision patterning.

I am writing from my own experiences. I began as a consumer searching for a diamond. To make a long story short, I searched malls and specialty shops and eventually had the opportunity to compare non-ideal, ideal and superideal diamonds side by side for many hours. As a consumer the differences I have outlined above were clear to me.

Four years after my consumer journey I joined the trade. Now, as I work among hundreds of these diamonds and study minute differences in patterning & minor facet construction, the distinctions stand out even more to me.

Will I see dark arrows in real life? 

Not unless you work hard to do so.  The only way obstruction can be seen as it appears in these photos is if you are able to hold the diamond perfectly still while blocking the light source with your head at the correct distance.  When diamonds are unobstructed (practically all of the time) the patterns are not obvious. 

Examples 

In the first photo the camera is positioned so the arrows effect is visible in the center stone, but the side stones are offset, so the arrows are not visible.  The other photos show different angles and the resultant contrast patterns.  All of these diamonds have premium optical symmetry, but for the arrows effect to be visible the camera must be directly over the crown, blocking the light source at the correct distance so that all of the pavilion mains go dark simultaneously. 

Cut Precision:

Diamonds with premium optical symmetry show symmetrical pavilion mains and have balanced performance qualities when cut with great light return.  Many commercial diamonds do not enjoy such precision.  Diamonds with different levels of cut precision have different obstruction patterns.  Predictably, this influences the consistency and character of the performance.

The girdle is the outermost edge which dictates the shape of the diamond. Unmagnified, it may appear to be a thin line, but is often a small series of facets. Grading reports cite type and describe thinnest to thickest points as verbal desriptors or percentages (described below).

1. Girdle Types 

A faceted girdle is one where the brillianteer polished facets into the diamond's girdle.  

An unfaceted, or bruted girdle is one where the diamond's girdle is unpolished and has a frosted appearance.  Some cutters believe polishing the girdle may cause color to be reflected back inside, so unfaceted girdles are common in J or K color grades and down, and in small goods, .25 and lower. In near-colorless diamonds it's not the concern that it is with slightly colored and below.  

A polished girdle on a diamond is see-through or clear.  A polished girdle is considered a finishing touch but is not critical.  One situation where polish is desirable is when the diamond is a fish-eye, where polishing will reduce the effect of the girdle's reflection in the table.      

New machines have been developed that are putting a fine finish on girdles.  These diamond girdles are more than bruted, but less than polished.  We choose to call these finely finished:  It is not faceted, not completely polished, nor does it remain bruted.  It is in a warm and cozy place somewhere in-between.  

For example, this EOS uses a liquid-cooled scaife to cool the diamond being bruted.  It’s connected to a computer monitor that shows a zoomed image and a wire frame model that can be adjusted to the desired shape, has automatic steering and allows no vibrations during operation.  The result is an extremely round, straight and high quality girdle.

( WTOCD photos)

The pavilion of a round brilliant has two types of facets (not counting a culet if present):  Eight pavilion mains and 16 lower girdle facets, also called "lower halves." 

The pavilion main facets draw light from the highest angles.  These are the engines driving light return. Between each of the 8 pavilion mains are 2 lower halves.  In top performing diamonds these lower halves have great influence on the life and character of the performance, particularly if the diamond has good patterning (optical symmetry or ‘Hearts & Arrows’).

What is Lower Half %?

The Lower Half % describes the average distance a diamond's lower girdle halves run on a straight line from girdle to culet.

Lower Half Examples

The distance the lower halves run from girdle to culet determine how thick, or narrow, the all-important pavilion mains are: Short lower halves result in wider pavilion mains. Long lower halves result in narrow pavilion mains. On most commercial round brilliant diamonds, the lower halves average between 75-85%, with the majority at the upper side of this range.

Estimating Lower Half Measurements

You can tell much about lower halves with reflector images made in such optical tools as a H&A viewer, ASET or Ideal-Scope. Here are crown views of diamonds with lower halves at 75, 80 and 85%. Note that these models assume perfect optical symmetry.

How do they differ?

In simplistic terms, short lower halves (wide pavilion mains) enhance diamond performance in indirect/soft lighting conditions. Long lower halves (narrow pavilion mains) enhance performance in very bright lighting conditions. All of this assumes well-performing proportions and good optical symmetry as a prerequisite, which is not always the case in commercial markets. Overall configuration has everything to do with the visual balance acquired. The very best diamonds perform equally well through a broad range of lighting conditions, thanks to carefully prescribed parameters.

AGS and GIA reports

AGS and GIA both state Lower Half % on their grading reports (GIA rounds the number to the nearest 5% however).

Our recommendations

Diamonds can have lower girdles cut to high numbers to enhance their attractiveness under bright jewelry store spotlights. However, taken away from those spotlights, such diamonds may not be as attractive in normal lighting. Precise configuration and optical symmetry must be taken into account, but in general terms our recommendations for best performance through a broad range of lighting conditions are for lower girdle lengths (GIA & AGS reports) 75-80%.

Hearts & Arrows Diamond Views

Reflector assessment is how Kazumi Okuda and his contemporaries developed optically symmetrical patterning decades ago.  This approach is also the one Whiteflash used to fine-tune parameters for visual balance in Whiteflash ACA Hearts & Arrows Diamonds.

Here are crown (arrows) views of diamonds cut to 78%, 80% and 82%. The differences are notable, though much less obvious than 75-80-85 seen above.

Below are diamond pavilion (hearts) views. This is the view most focused on for Whiteflash ACA, as we feel the diamond's lower girdle-pavilion main relationships are of prime importance for light return and visual balance through a broad range of normal lighting conditions.

In this view even differences between 78%, 80% and 82% LGF are distinct.

78% - Robust hearts with slight separation from arrowheads above (pointing to the culet).

80% - Narrower hearts with notable separation from arrowheads. Slight splits appear at the Vs.

82% - Narrow hearts with significant separation from arrowheads. Notable splits at the Vs.

Summary

As splits become larger in the Vs of the hearts, some performance qualities are lost in lower lighting conditions. Different configurations behave differently but in general terms our recommendation for best performance through a broad range of lighting conditions are for lower girdle lengths (GIA & AGS reports) 75-80%.

Here is a dimmed pavilion view with crown facets wireframed in with stars at 50%.

Appendix for cut enthusiasts: Two ways to measure

Two approaches have been developed to measure a diamond's lower girdle facets. Lower Half Length % is the most common and describes the distance the lower girdle halves on a straight line from girdle to culet. Lower Half Height % describes the distance the lower girdle halves drop on an imaginary plumb line from girdle level to culet level.

AGS and GIA both report lower girdle length % on their reports, though GIA rounds the number to the nearest 5%.

Lower Girdle Height is expressed in laboratory research by AGSL and in DiamCalc software by OctoNus.

For comparison purposes, ‘height’ is 1-2% greater than ‘length’ in typical configurations. Example: 80% 'length' (on grading reports) = 81.5% 'height' (DiamCalc and AGS research).

For precise cross-reference, here are charts provided by the AGS, reproduced with permission.

(they are not the same)

Many people don't realize the Symmetry grade on a diamond's laboratory report only refers to external meet point symmetry (facet junctions meeting equally) and uniformity of the diamond's external shape. 

Optical Symmetry, on the other hand, is the type of symmetry that is seen through a Hearts & Arrows viewer (both crown and pavilion views) or an ideal-scope/ASET image (crown view).  Optical Symmetry is the observable result of how the diamond's facets physically align with each other internally, and how light reflects inside the diamond.

The fact that some diamond experts use simply 'symmetry' when referring to optical symmetry confuses the issue for newcomers.

Graphic examples follow.

EXAMPLE A:  Meet Point Symmetry (graded by labs)

What is evaluated here?

1. Facet junctions meeting equally:  Seeing if the lines are clean and there is no misalignment.
2. Uniformity of the crown in relation to the pavilion:  Making certain all of the main facets are aligned - that there is no “twist.”

The diamond's symmetry grade you see on a laboratory 'certificate' is an assessment of the above.  Studies have concluded that there is negligible visible difference between Ideal, EX and VG in lab-issued symmetry and polish grades. 

EXAMPLE B:  Optical symmetry (not graded by labs)

Also called Patterning or Hearts & Arrows Patterning

What is evaluated here?

1. Good physical symmetry resulting from a detailed indexing of the facets (crown and pavilion facets appear in their correct place on the ‘clock’).
2. How precisely patterned and flat facets are relative to their opposites (that there is no shift in the azimuth). When a cutter takes the facet (polishes it) from E to W, rather than from N to S, it can cause an azimuth shift, resulting in facet yaw.  This will show in optical symmetry.
3. Variation between crown and pavilion angles: It is acceptable to have some variation (subject to limitations) as long as there is no E-W yaw and opposite facets average correctly.  Some might consider this an angles/proportions issue, but it is directly related to physical symmetry, as the question here is opposite facet relations, averaging and resultant light interaction. For that matter, it has been observed that a slight variation in opposite angles can improve overall scintillation and contrast as long as there is no presence of E-W yaw.

What does this mean?

Meet point symmetry is external, the labs do not look at how each individual facet performs or interacts with other facets internally; They check only junctions and crown/pavilion relations.  This means a diamond can receive a grade of Ideal or Excellent in symmetry but may still have indexing issues (bottom clock in relation to the top clock), facet tilt, or yaw and extreme variations in angle measurements. The only way to observe physical symmetry is through a reflecting viewer.

EXAMPLE C:  Both of these diamonds were graded EXCELLENT in Symmetry

 Both diamonds were photographed using a hearts & arrows viewer.  Both received a top grade of Excellent in symmetry.  The difference in facet relationships is obvious, but on paper the symmetry grade is the same.

This is how patterning - or optical symmetry - differs from lab graded symmetry.  To learn more about optical symmetry, visit our information on Hearts & Arrows and our Whiteflash ACA superideal Hearts & Arrows diamonds.

Diamonds are sent to different grading labs to serve a purpose.  Diamond cutters and sellers want to maximize their profits, so they choose their labs strategically.  In the mainstream that decision is not necessarily being made with the objective of providing buyers with the most accurate shopping information.

Strictness, consistency and information vary between diamond grading labs.  The lab’s client was the manufacturer or seller and the reason they bought that lab’s report was to help them sell the diamond better. Click here to read more about grading labs.

The American Gem Society (AGS) the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the International Gemological Institute (IGI) grade diamonds strictly.  This does not make diamonds graded by the AGS or GIA ‘better,’ but it does warrant research, discretion and further professional input when considering a diamond that was sent to a second or third tier lab.  The smart diamond shopper will ask 'Why was this diamond sent to that particular lab?'  Buyers in the mainstream seem to be more tolerant of variations with the second tier labs than those on the internet.  A ‘certificate’ that is off by a grade or 2 may not bother many shoppers when they are seeing the diamond under bright lights.  This can be useful to sellers.  Many will describe this as a positive feature, because you get a report with a higher grade on it for the same or less money.  Of course a better looking document doesn’t mean a better looking diamond but it sounds good at the time, and emotion is a large part of the sales process.

Remember, the path of a stone from the mine to you was not chosen randomly and it wasn’t chosen by you.  Cutters and sellers have access to many different markets and they are not all the same.  Some diamonds are best suited for a swanky retail store in Japan while others will sell best in a Midwestern pawn shop.  Cutters are well aware of this and will distribute accordingly.  The choices are made by clever people who are working on razor thin profit margins that can vary considerably depending on the results.  If they think they can make more money with a diamond by sending it to a different lab there’s a pretty good chance that this is what they’ll do. 

So/diamonds_info.  Staying with AGS, GIA, IGI or EGL exclusively will guarantee you end up with what you want, right?  Wrong.  The AGS and GIA  are considered the ‘elite’ labs, but the presence of an elite report doesn’t end the shopping process. Even they make mistakes and not everyone is looking for the same things in a diamond.  It’s not all on the lab report.

So what’s a sensible shopper to do?

"Buy the diamond, not the paper."  Use the lab documentation to support or refute the expert advice you are receiving from your seller, not as a substitute for it.  In short, choose your seller first, then the diamond, not the other way around.

Appreciation to Neil Beaty of American Gem Registry for contributing to this article.

Interpretation

Interpretation is simple.  Here are sample photos of well-cut, average and poorly cut diamonds. 

+ Black areas indicate light returned at very high angles.  These areas are dark in the ideal-scope because light from directly above is blocked by the camera. 

+ Red areas indicate light returning to the eye at optimum angles. 

< Pink areas indicate less optimum light return.

- White indicates non-reflecting facets where light is escaping, or ‘leaking’ out of the diamond’s pavilion. 

The finest cut diamonds have an abundance of red, and a pattern of symmetrical black arrows radiating from the center.  Average cut diamonds have areas of pink, gray and white leakage.  Poorly cut diamonds have large areas of leakage and chaotic optical symmetry.

An ideal-scope photo also gives an idea of the diamond’s optical symmetry and proportions.  The highest level of optical symmetry results in a sharp pattern of arrows in the crown.  Good proportions result in robust light return.  A reference chart is available, linked here.

Contrast Leakage

Finely cut diamonds may have small, triangular patterns of white along the edges, and outside of the center of the diamond.  These small areas of ‘contrast leakage’ are perfectly acceptable.

Whiteflash Standardized Photo System

All diamonds in our inventory are photographed using a standardized ideal-scope system.  This system utilizes the transparent Ideal-scope RPS Tray in a controlled studio with a 5000K color-corrected backlighting source approximating normal daylight.

Reflectors are the oldest, most proven method for reliable, uniform assessment of light performance in a diamond.  The AGS is using a similar device for light performance assessment in its cut-grading system, called the ASET or Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool.

Your Whiteflash jewelry has been carefully created and inspected for quality.  With proper wear, care & cleaning it will provide you with a lifetime of joy.

Remember that jewelry undergoes wear and tear, like shoes, your car or anything that travels. Jewelry worn each day should be professionally checked between once and twice a year. Failure to properly maintain jewelry may result in damage not covered by your manufacturer’s warranty.

Wear

Select daily-wear pieces that are in-harmony with your lifestyle. Common alloys used in jewelry are soft metals and will bend if subjected to excessive or regular pressure. Gold prongs are less shock-resistant than platinum.  Doctors, artists and others in hand-intensive occupations sometimes choose two rings; an elaborate formal band and a plain band for wear at work

Make a habit of checking your jewelry each day you wear it. Even the most careful person can accidentally knock jewelry against a hard surface. Diamonds are the hardest objects on earth, but even a flawless diamond can chip if struck on a cleavage plane. Prongs and mountings are even more susceptible to accidental damage.

Remember to remove jewelry, rings in particular, when doing active work or household chores. Excessive pressure like weight lifting, sporting, or even gripping a hammer can subject a ring to unusual pressure, causing it to become misshapen.

Chlorine can permanently discolor or damage gold jewelry, especially at the joints. Remove gold jewelry when using chlorine bleach or while in a pool or hot tub. Cast platinum pieces are safer, but even platinum jewelry may have solder or sizing joints with lower melting point alloys that can be damaged by chlorine.

Some colored gemstone jewelry should not be exposed to lotion, salt water, chlorine, bleach or other chemicals. They may erode the finish and polish. Additionally, some colored gemstone jewelry should not be exposed to sudden temperature changes (consult a trusted professional with questions).

Care

Apply cosmetics, hair spray and perfume before putting jewelry on, so it’s not exposed to chemicals or film - especially pearls and gemstones which can be damaged by hairsrpay and perfume.

Once you’re finished, wipe your jewelry with a clean soft cloth to ensure it’s clean before storage.

Store your jewelry in a clean, dry place. Pieces can scratch each other so store them apart. Many fabric-lined jewelry cases are designed for this. If you use ordinary boxes wrap each piece individually in soft tissue paper, or store them individually in soft pouches.

Along with regular care, have your jewelry professionally cleaned and checked by a professional for worn mountings, loose prongs and general condition once per year.

Have white gold re-plated, platinum re-polished and prongs re-tipped as necessary to maintain original condition. For most people this will be once every 18 months or so, depending on wear.

Cleaning

Diamond Jewelry

Some diamond jewelry is worn 24 hours a day. Diamonds are brilliant but still require proper cleaning to keep their appearance. Lotions, soaps and skin oils create a film and attract dirt. This changes the refractive index of the diamond and causes it to look dull, even if the dirt is unseen, on the pavilion (bottom) of the diamond. Regular cleaning will keep your diamond jewelry looking its best.

Clean your jewelry in a secure location, not the rim of a sink where it can slip down the drain.

Daily-worn jewelry should be cleaned once per week. A concentration of mild dishwashing detergent & warm water is good for diamond jewelry. Allow diamond jewelry to soak for 10 minutes in the solution, then use a soft brush to scrub away particles; especially underneath gemstones. Rinse and dry with a clean soft cloth. Seriously soiled jewelry should be cleaned professionally.

Don’t use polishing compound, a brush with toothpaste on it or materials unintended for jewelry. Toothpaste is an abrasive and will damage metal. Use only a soft brush, never sharp or hard objects, to remove dirt or particles.

Ultrasonic cleaners are available and popular, but be aware that excessive use of an ultrasonic cleaner on pieces with tiny diamonds may eventually shake them loose.

Clean stored jewelry with a soft chamois cloth regularly to keep it lustrous and ready for wear.

Colored Gemstone Jewelry

Some gemstones require special care and cleaning. Before caring for any gemstones you should check with a trusted professional to get relevant advice. Once you have done this, here are some general tips:

Wipe your gemstone jewelry down with a clean, soft, slightly damp cloth to remove oils and perspiration after each wearing. Store pieces individually, in soft pouches.

You can clean gemstone jewelry with mild dishwashing detergent & water, but not with chemicals or solvents. Allow to soak for 10 minutes then use a soft brush to scrub away particles. Rinse and dry with a clean soft cloth.

Ultrasonic cleaners are not safe for certain gemstones (contact us with questions about which are safe and which are not).

Clean stored jewelry with a soft chamois cloth regularly to keep it lustrous and ready for wear.

Pearl Jewelry

Cultured pearls are the products of living creatures. The mollusk secretes a substance called nacre which produces the pearl and gives the rainbow of colors and luster which is beautiful but also susceptible to damage.

After each wearing of pearls wipe them off with a t-shirt or soft cotton cloth. 

Clean your pearl jewelry with mild dishwashing detergent & water but not with chemicals or solvents. They can damage your pearls.

Put pearl jewelry in a chamois bag, or wrap in tissue, when putting it away. Pearls will be scratched by hard edges and other jewelry pieces so don’t drop them into a purse or jewelry box.

Have frequently-worn pearls restrung as necessary to prevent breakage. Cosmetics, perspiration, oils and wear weaken and stretch the threads on which the pearls are string. Be sure they are strung with a knot between each pearl to prevent loss of pearls if the string breaks.

Remember

Jewelry pieces are luxury items and should be cared for in same manner as you would a family heirloom. Those worn daily are at greater risk of damage.

One person may wear a ring for 100 years with no issues and the next person may experience damage after a week. Like fine automobiles, fine jewelry must be cared-for, maintained and worn with great care to stay in mint condition.

Yes and no.  One person might wear a ring for 100 years with no incidents but someone else could have a completely different experience with the same ring.  Solid rings and settings with large diamonds are less vulnerable than thin shafts and prongs or delicate craftsmanship with melee and pave. 

What are the causes?

When it does happen, there are 3 primary reasons that diamonds, particularly small diamonds, may fall out.

1.  The diamond wasn’t set properly.

Among top manufacturers this is uncommon, but is still a possibility.

2.  Residue.

When drilling holes, burring, filing, etc. there is microscopic residue; metal filings, polishing rouge, etc.  When a tiny diamond is set there is a possibility for microscopic particles to exist between the diamonds and the setting.  As the ring is worn the residue may loosen up.  Sometimes if the ring is put in an ultrasonic cleaner (which many professionals do not recommend for melee) the residue is lost.  This frees up the extra space and the diamond might move, or fall out.  Fortunately, when this happens in an ultrasonic cleaner, the diamond is easily found.

3.  Wear and tear.

It's an unpredictable part of life.  Some people are heavier on their rings than others.  As a ring gets knocked or bumped, metal may be worn away or become loose and a diamond may move in its setting.  If a person's diamond rings are scuffed or dented he/she may want to consider designs and materials appropriate to his/her lifestyle when making a purchase.   Depending on how rough someone is it may be preferable for him/her to have White Gold rather than Platinum for the body of the piece (platinum is more malleable).  Clients who request very thin bands or thin prongs are often advised that the piece is delicate, but the designer cannot know how hard someone will be on the ring.  We will not make diamond bands/prongs at a certain thinness for this reason.

Who is responsible?

When a diamond comes loose or falls out each case must be considered separately.  It may be the responsibility of the manufacturer, or it may due to something the wearer did.  There are telltale signs when it's the wearer's responsibility, such as scratch and scuff marks, a ring that is out of round or dings and dents.  However, if there is minimal wear and tear then something didn't allow the stone to sit correctly, and it is the manufacturer's responsibility.  To a large degree 'responsibility' is about how much the company that made the ring is willing to back it up. 

 Whiteflash

For our part, if something happens due to residue or improper setting we will restore it as part of the lifetime warranty.  If it was due to wear and tear it is the responsibility of the wearer.  In some cases we may choose to warrant it anyway, after a cautionary discussion with the client.  We reserve the right to do this at our sole discretion.

Careful Testing

We have a policy, when new rings are introduced, to create a prototype and send it into the field for ‘wear and tear’ testing before making it available to the public.  We use a person who is active with their hands and gauge the results in order to modify the design as necessary.  Of course, even if all goes perfectly in the trial period it is no guarantee for every person who will ever wear the design, but it provides a working baseline to head off errors before a public release.  There is no such thing as an invulnerable ring, and every person is different.  Nevertheless, top diamond jewelry manufacturers craft each piece hoping that it will last a lifetime.

 Diamond Engagement Rings | Diamond Solitaire Rings
 Princess Cut Diamonds | Diamond Education