Whiteflash.com - Diamond and Jewelry Articles

Budgeting for your Diamond Purchase

Budgeting (The 5th C: Cost)

You may have heard suggestions about that the appropriate sum to spend on a diamond is based upon your salary. You should disregard such advice and spend what you are comfortable spending. The experience will be much more pleasurable if you set a budget and work within it. There are small compromises that can be made to fit a nice looking diamond into almost any budget. In each of the sections on the four C's we give advice on getting the best bang for the buck. They are compiled below for quick reference. In addition, compare price among different shapes. You may find that you can get the same size and quality for less money by considering a different shape.

Practical advice: color

While colorless stones are rarer and cost more, near-colorless stones will look essentially the same to the eye when set in jewelry. Choosing a GHIJ color instead of one in the DEF range will enable you to get a larger diamond for the money, without a substantial compromise in performance or beauty. If the diamond is to be set in white gold or platinum, aim a little higher on the scale than you would if setting it in yellow gold. Yellow gold disguises body color whereas white metal reveals it.

Blue fluorescence can add to eye appeal of near-colorless diamonds and therefore be a benefit. Fluorescence is not a benefit to a colorless stone and may reduce its value. Very Strong fluorescence in some cases and under certain conditions can diminish a diamond's performance and beauty

Practical advice: clarity

For jewelry purposes Si2 clarity is sufficient to allow for brilliance and performance. Even close examination with the naked eye will not reveal any flaws in most cases. For engagement purposes many buyers prefer stones with higher purity. Selecting Si1 or Si2 rather than a higher grade can enable a buyer to own a larger and/or better color diamond for the money without a substantial drop off in beauty or performance.

Practical advice: carat

Apparent diamond size varies depending on the carat weight and the proportioning of the cut. A 1.00ct stone that is cut a little too deep might actually be smaller looking than a 0.90ct stone that is well proportioned. Also, at certain carat levels, per carat prices increase substantially. It is sometimes possible to get real price savings by staying just under these so called 'magic marks'. For instance, a well cut stone of 0.45 ct might be quite a bit less expensive than the same quality 0.50ct, yet have a visual appearance virtually the same. The important magic marks are 0.50ct, 0.70ct, 1.00ct, 1.25ct, 1.50ct, 2.00ct, 3.00ct, 5.00ct.

Practical advice: cut

While a good quality round diamond with an 'ideal' cut will certainly be very beautiful, very good and premium cuts might be just as attractive without costing a premium. While no commonly accepted 'ideal' cut parameters exist for fancy shapes, good and very good cut grades will result in the best performance. Consider the length to width ratio of the diamond and the design of the mounting when selecting a fancy shape.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Diamond Cut

Cut is the only diamond value factor that is the result of human input. This important factor may be the most difficult to understand because it is the most technical, but gaining a basic understanding does not have to be daunting. Cut refers to the proportioning, alignment and finish of a diamond's polished faces or facets. Proper cutting enables a diamond to perform at its best and release its full potential for fire and brilliance. A well cut diamond will be more beautiful and more valuable than a poorly cut stone.

In addition, a cutter will usually have to sacrifice more of the rough stone to produce a well cut finished stone, thereby ending up with a smaller diamond than had he taken liberties with the cut. Well cut stones therefore yield less weight from the rough and are therefore more expensive to produce.

Fire, Brilliance, and Scintillation

These are the three aspects of diamond performance and they are distinct elements.

Fire refers to a diamond's ability to act as a prism and to break white light into its spectral colors. Diamonds with good fire will exhibit little sparks of red, green, yellow, and blue as light refracts through and out of the stone to the eye.

Brilliance is the total amount of light returned to the eye and results in the overall brightness of the stone.

Scintillation is the sparkle of the diamond and is determined by the cutting style and execution of the cut.

The quality of a diamond's cut is a complicated interaction of proportions and finishing factors. Many combinations can result in beautiful finished stones. Because the above mentioned performance elements are distinct, it is possible for the cutter to make tradeoffs in the process. For instance, making the table facet a little larger may make the stone slightly more brilliant and slightly less fiery. So while there are cut guidelines, in the end beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Note: The word "cut" is also used in reference to a diamond's shape -- round cut, marquise cut, princess cut, etc. It is less confusing to restrict the term "cut" to a discussion of the proportions, alignment and finish of a polished diamond.

The following illustrations show the various parts of a diamond and the measurements used in the analysis of a diamond's cut:

Below is a depiction of the behavior of light entering a diamond. Well cut diamonds refract and reflect a high percentage of light back to the eye, whereas poorly cut diamonds allow light to leak out the bottom resulting in diminished brilliance and fire.

Table, Depth, Polish, and Symmetry

Depth percentage, the ratio of the total depth to the diameter, and table percentage, the ratio of the size of the large table facet to the diameter of the stone, are the most important factors affecting the overall performance of the diamond.

Additionally, two other factors in the detailing of the diamond are important in fine tuning the final product. Symmetry refers to the alignment of the facets with one another, and polish refers to the final mirror finish achieved all the facets.

Ideal, super ideal, triple o, hearts and arrows, branded and signature cuts

As if the subject of cutting was not complicated enough, now there are an ever increasing number of competing ideas about what cutting parameters are truly the best.

The concept of an "ideal" cut first gained popularity in 1919 when mathematician Gabriel Tolkowsky published a study of the behavior of light in a cut diamond and came up with a formula for proportions that would result in the most beautiful round diamond.

Over the years experimentation and scientific study have revealed that there are many proportion combinations that result in superb finished diamonds. In fact, the most important study on the subject ever conducted and utilizing advanced computer modeling technologies is the ongoing study by the Gemological Institute of America.

Despite all the hype in the trade as different companies go about promoting their own versions of "ideal" diamonds, the position of the GIA on the subject is stated in their educational materials in this way: "Unfortunately, there is no proof that any one set of proportions is truly "ideal." Preliminary results of ongoing research on cut suggest that many different proportion combinations succeed equally well."

For this reason, GIA does render qualitative cut "grades" on their reports.

To underscore how complicated the subject is, despite advanced research no definitive conclusion has been reached regarding the round brilliant cut. Fancy shapes offer a mind numbing range of different variables that may defy definitive pronouncements for generations to come!

Fancy Shapes

Diamond shapes other than round are referred to as fancy shapes. Almost any shape is possible and there are new designs coming into the market regularly as new diamond cutting technologies are developed. Determining a cut grade for fancy shapes is far more complicated than for rounds, and as a result there are no rigid standards, and therefore no "ideal" or "premium" combination of proportions. To a great extent with fancies, "beauty is in the eye of the beholder."

One of the most important aspects in fancies is the overall outline of the shape. The diamond's outline will affect the eye appeal of the stone as well as the overall design of a finished piece of jewelry. Yet this remains a relatively subjective factor.

For instance, some people might prefer a long slender marquise for a design that accentuates a long slender finger. Likewise, a pendant design might favor an elongated pear shape over one with broad shoulders.

To help you understand and visualize the outline of the stone, we have included a calculation of the length to width ratio for all our fancies on each diamond detail page. In addition, we present a representative image of a diamond with a length to width ratio similar to the diamond being viewed. By knowing the length to width ratio of the diamond in the representative image and comparing that to the ratio of the actual diamond, you are able to get a very close visualization of the outline of the actual diamond under consideration.

For example, if you are looking at a marquise shaped stone and the representative image has a ratio of 1.78, and you see in the diamond details that the actual stone has a ratio of 1.85, you know that the diamond you are considering is very slightly more elongated than the representative image. Likewise, if you are looking at an oval and the representative image is 1.45, and the actual diamond has a ratio of 1.39, you know that the stone you are considering is slightly wider than the diamond in the representative image.

We hope that you find this tool helpful in selecting the fancy shape best for your taste and best suited to the piece of jewelry that you wish to create.

Whiteflash.com's cut grades

Although there seems in fact to be no single set of parameters that are universally accepted as best, we use commonly accepted industry norms in arriving at a cut grade on our diamonds that will give customers a solid sense of quality. The values in the following tables form the basis for our dynamic cut grading system. This guidance is intended for use in conjunction with a review of the other attributes detailed in the lab report.

Round Brilliant
	Table %		Depth %
	Low	High	Low	High
Ideal	53	57	60.1	62.9
Premium	53	59	59.8	63.9
Very Good	52	60	58.0	63.9
Good	52	64	57.0	64.3
Fair	51	67	55.0	67.0
Poor	< 51	68 >	< 59	68 >

Marquise
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	51	69	54	67	1.75	2.2
Good	50	75	47	76	1.6	2.85
Fair	45	78	44	77	1.5	3.15
Poor	<44	90>	<0	43>	1.0	NA

Princess
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	59	78	64	75	1.0	1.4
Good	55	86	62	83.9	1.5	1.6
Fair	50	89	60	86.9	1.7	1.9
Poor	<49	90>	<60	87>	2.0	NA

Emerald
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	61	72	58	68	1.0	1.7
Good	60	82	56	79.9	1.8	2.0
Fair	58	86	50	83.3	2.1	2.3
Poor	<58	87>	<50	84>	2.4	NA

Pear
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	52	66	53	65	1.5	1.7
Good	51	67	50	72.9	1.35	1.85
Fair	48	69	48	75	1.2	2.05
Poor	<48	69>	<48	75>	1.0	NA

Radiant
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	61	78	59.7	73	1.0	1.6
Good	58	80	56	79.9	1.7	1.8
Fair	53	84	55	83.9	1.9	2.0
Poor	50	100	0	100	2.1	NA

Oval
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	52	63	57	65	1.5	1.7
Good	51	66	53	68.9	1.25	1.85
Fair	50	67	52	73.5	1.15	2.05
Poor	<50	67>	<52	74>	1.0	NA

Practical Advice

While a good quality round diamond with an "ideal" cut will certainly be very beautiful, very good and premium cuts might be just as attractive without costing a premium. While no commonly accepted "ideal" cut parameters exist for fancy shapes, good and very good cut grades will result in the best performance. Consider the length to width ratio of the diamond and the design of the mounting when selecting a fancy shape.

Diamond Carat Weight

This is the easiest factor to understand, although there is a little wrinkle here too! Carat is a measure of weight: 5 carats = 1 gram, 1carat = 0.20 gram.

Carat weight is stated decimal terms, such that one carat is written 1.00ct. One and a half carat = 1.50ct, three quarters of a carat = 0.75ct and so on.

Diamonds under one carat are commonly talked about in terms of "points" which are simply percentage points of a carat (1.00ct= 100 points). So a quarter of a carat (0.25ct) is said to be 25 points, half carat is 50 points, 0.98ct is 98 points and so on. Because a carat is a unit of weight, diamonds of exactly the same carat weight can appear to be different sizes, depending on the proportions of the cut. A thicker or deeper cut will look smaller than a stone with a larger surface area or "spread".

The illustration below shows relative visual sizes of well cut diamonds in a range of carat weights. (not intended to represent actual sizes)

Rarity and value increase with diamond size- an important concept to appreciate. A 1.00ct diamond of a certain quality is far rarer than the same quality in a 0.50ct diamond. Therefore, the cost of the 1.00 is more than simply twice the cost of the 50 pointer. As a result, the per carat price of like quality diamonds increases with size. In the example above, the 50 pointer might cost $2000/ct -a total of $1000, whereas the 1.00ct diamond in the same quality might cost $3900/ct totalling $3900.

Note: Carat is sometimes confused with Karat (and for good reason!). Whereas carat is a measure of gemstone weight, Karat is a measure of gold purity. 24 Karat is pure gold, 14K is 14/24 pure (58.5%), 18K is 18/24 pure (75%).

Practical advice:

Apparent diamond size varies depending on the carat weight and the proportioning of the cut. A 1.00ct stone that is cut a little too deep might actually be smaller looking than a 0.90ct stone that is well proportioned. Also, at certain carat levels, per carat prices increase substantially. It is sometimes possible to get real price savings by staying just under these so called "magic marks". For instance, a well cut stone of 0.45 ct might be quite a bit less expensive than the same quality 0.50ct, yet have a visual appearance virtually the same. The important magic marks are 0.50ct, 0.70ct, 1.00ct, 1.25ct, 1.50ct, 2.00ct, 3.00ct, 5.00ct.

Diamond Clarity

Nearly every diamond contains some external blemishes or internal inclusions that can be detected with magnification. To the extent that diamonds are free of these characteristics they are more rare and valuable. Diamonds with higher clarity or "purity" are more expensive than diamonds with lower clarity and more imperfections. In addition to being rarer, stones with higher clarity are capable of reflecting and refracting light better.

Diamonds are graded for clarity based upon the number, size and location of these tiny inclusions. They also serve to create a very unique identifying signature for a specific diamond, much like a fingerprint.

The clarity grading system most widely used around the world is the GIA scale. Professional grading is done in controlled conditions under 10X magnification.

It is helpful to think of clarity in terms of grade ranges with the following descriptions.

Clarity Descriptions
Abbreviation	Definition	Description
F, IF	Flawless - Internally Flawless	Flawless stones have no external blemishes or internal inclusions when examined by an experienced grader using 10X magnification. Internally Flawless diamonds have no inclusions under 10X magnification but have minute external blemishes.
VVS1, VVS2	Very, Very Slightly Include	Contains minute inclusions that are difficult even for an experienced grader to see under 10X magnification.
VS1, VS2	Very Slightly Included	Contains minor inclusions observed with effort under 10X magnification.
SI1, SI2, *Si3 (not used by GIA)	Slightly Included	Contain inclusions that are noticeable to an experienced grader under 10X magnification. Almost always clean to the naked eye.
I1, I2, I3	Included	Contain inclusions obvious under 10X magnification. Inclusions may affect transparency, brilliance and even durability.

Practical advice:

Diamond Color

Almost all loose diamondspossess some degree of body color, usually yellow or brown. A small percentage of diamonds are colorless, and an even smaller number possess body color so strong that they are classified as "fancy colors".

Color is graded on the scale developed by the GIA and is almost universally used today to classify diamonds in the world market. The "normal range" of this alphabetic scale starts at "D" (colorless) and runs through "Z" (light yellow or brown). Colorless stones are rarer and more valuable than stones with body color in the normal range. However, diamonds graded as fancy are analyzed differently and can be extremely valuable.

It is helpful to think of the scale in terms of grade ranges: D,E,F are considered colorless, G,H,I,J are near-colorless and lower grades are slightly tinted to lightly tinted.

Differences between color grades are extremely subtle. Professional diamond grading is done in controlled lighting conditions with the stones in table-down position, with the grader looking through the girdle of the stone in order to see the slight differences in body color. Diamonds in the near-colorless to colorless range will appear white or colorless to the eye when viewed through the table.

In addition to the increased rarity and value of colorless stones, body color also impacts the quality of light emanating from a diamond. Body color acts as a sort of filter that diminishes to an extent the pure nature of light returning to the eye. Colorless diamonds that are well-cut exhibit the best spectral display or "fire."

Although lower colors can still be very beautiful Whiteflash.com prefers to sell only diamonds of J color and above.

Flourescence

Flourescence, also known as photoluminescence, is a property in some diamonds that causes them to glow when exposed to ultraviolet light. The effect is rarely noticeable under normal circumstances and is chiefly an identifying characteristic of a given diamond. In many cases flourescence is a benefit, helping lower colors to appear whiter, but in rare cases it is detrimental, causing the stone to look slightly foggy in certain light.

Practical advice:

Blue flourescense can add to eye appeal of near-colorless diamonds and therefore be a benefit. Very strong fluorescence will not enhance colorless stones and may detract from their beauty and value.

How safe is it shopping for diamond jewelry online?

Military Benefits

As a tribute to the men and women serving oversees many e-commerce sites, such as Whiteflash, have free domestic shipping and 1% military discounts for those serving our country. Using the Internet connections oversees, many military personnel already shop Whiteflash.com to send jewelry to their significant others. The company says members of the military send gifts for birthdays, anniversaries and Mother’s Day—or just to say ‘I love you’ or that they’re missed.

Be an educated customer

Consider getting a guide book or searching online forums before you shop and brush up on your Diamond Education. The more you know about the four C’s, the grading scale and certification process, the better equipped you will be to get the best bling for your buck. Make sure that the store you choose to purchase from has a subject matter expert to answer your questions by email or phone.

Comparison Shop
Search various online retailers in order to get an idea of what a competitive price for your gem or precious stone should be. Helpful comparison tools include the “ring builder” features that most online stores offer. They will give you free quotes without any obligation to buy. Many sites allow you to save your comparison rings so that you can consider several options at once.

Reputation Matters
Shop with an online jeweler who has an established reputation for good business practice (one way to check on this is to make sure that they have a satisfactory rating with the Better Business Bureau). Whiteflash.com, which is the largest online retailer of certified diamonds and is consistently rated highly by customers and media publications because of their high quality products and highly educated customer relationship managers. Make sure that whatever company you choose offers at least a money back guarantee. They also must provide you with a certificate or equivalent for your diamond.

Ask for an Appraisal and Certificate
Your diamond should be issued an appraisal of its value. You should also ask your jeweler if the diamond has been treated with any fillers or other laboratory enhancements. If it hasn’t, he should issue you a certificate of authenticity. This paperwork is essential if you choose to have your ring insured.

Warranty
You also need to inquire about the warranty of your diamond. Some jewelers will continue to warranty the ring if you visit regularly for them to clean and check the setting of the ring. These basic maintenance tasks guarantee that your ring will remain as brilliant on your fiftieth anniversary as it was on your wedding day.

No matter which type of engagement ring you ultimately buy, by following certain tasks and approaching the purchase in an educated fashion, you will be pleased with an investment that will grow in value just as your love continues to grow throughout your marriage.

Gemstones: What Do They Really Mean?

Pearls are very feminine and classic. Great for every day wear. Also quite affordable, so good for bridesmaids gifts, mothers day, or even for a birthday. Whiteflashhas a great selection of pearl jewelry. We also have the capability of providing a custom precious gem search for you. Birthstones are also an option. September’s stone is sapphire, which comes in every color of the rainbow! Red rubies can signify love.

Amethyst which has royal purple hues has always been a famous gem amongst the kings and queens. It’s also a great fall winter color. It is the birthstone of people who are born in February.

Diamondis the birthstone of April. The word, “Diamond,” is from the Greek “adamas”- meaning invincible. It can be found in all the colors of the rainbow. Diamonds are believed to be the ultimate gift for couples on their wedding day. Diamonds are valued considering the 4 C’ssuch as cut ,color ,clarity and carat weight.

Emerald, which has a lush green hues and a rare beauty is May’s birthstone. It is known as the “symbol of spring.” In the ancient world this gem was believed to symbolize hope, arrival of spring and rebirth. Emeralds come in various varieties of light and dark shades of green and sometimes having background hues of different colors like yellow, blue, brown of gray.

Ruby is known as the “King of Gems.” As being the ultimate red gemstone it symbolizes passion and romance and its sometimes referred to as the “blood” gemstone representing courage and bravery.

Sapphire is the ultimate blue gemstone. It is known as “The Jewel of the Sky” and is the birthstone for September. Sapphire is virtually synonymous with blue; the stone also comes in a variety of fancy colors.

Tanzanite, which was discovered in 1967 in Tanzania, is a newcomer to the gemstone market. It is known as the “Jewel of East Africa.” Tanzanite is typically brown with reddish, orange, yellow, or bronze hues.

Are There Different Levels of Jewelry For Different Levels of Commitment?

Technically, each length of a relationship has specific types of gifts associated with it that gradually become more elaborate the longer a couple has been dating. So there are defiantly varying levels of gifts for various stages of commitment. Diamond Earringsare practical and can be worn with nearly any wardrobe in nearly any circumstance, and they provide a classic, elegant accent while not seeming to over the top. Necklace and diamond pendantsare good for anniversary presents, birthdays, or just because, and don’t have to be too extravagant or expensive. You can also get affordable, but sparkly studs that really make a statement if she likes her hair short. Or you can go with something a little more blingy, and dangly like the Diamonds By the Yard earringswhich make more of a “statement.”

The key to choosing the right piece of jewelryis to be sure it is suitable for the person in question. A man who never wears ties, for example, would not be as likely to appreciate a diamond-studded tie clip. A woman who frequently works out with a variety of vigorous activities would not have much use for an elaborate bracelet that could be easily damaged. You should carefully consider the person for whom the jewelry is intended.

In reality, what gifts a couple chooses to exchange should not be dictated by a calendar but what best suits their personality.

10 Diamond Cuts and Their Meanings

From classic round to cutting-edge cushion, rate your sparkler with our savvy diamond guide.

Pear

The look: Resembling a teardrop, a pear-shaped diamond has the fire and beauty of a round shape, but with a less conventional look. This shape can also make a wide finger look slimmer.

This choice says you’re: even-tempered and adaptable.

Oval

The look: If you love the gorgeous sparkle of a round, brilliant-cut diamond but still want something unique, consider an oval. A fresh take on a timeless style, this new shape came about in the early 1960s. Actor Jerry O’Connell recently gave his betrothed fashionista, Rebecca Romijn, an oval-shaped sparkler.

This choice says you’re: risk-taking and creative

Asscher

The look: Square with angular corners, this shape dates back to the late 1800s. If you look closely, you’ll see that it’s step-cut, meaning the facets are rectangular and seem to descend into the stone.

This choice says you’re: feminine and meticulous.

Round

The look: Also known as brilliant-cut, this tried-and-true shape reflects more light than any other, and is the most popular. Avril Lavigne showed her traditional side by wearing a round diamond engagement ring.

This choice says you’re: trustworthy and easygoing.

Emerald

The look: Inspired by the Asscher, this glamorous choice is also a rectangular step-cut shape. It has fewer facets than some of the other shapes, so look for an emerald-cut that offers maximum brilliance.

This choice says you’re: efficient and straightforward.

Cushion

The look: Rectangular with curved sides, the cushion-cut first hit big in the 18th century. A recent resurgence in popularity has given it a modern-meets-vintage feel. Ben Affleck gave Jennifer Garner a cushion-cut rock.

This choice says you’re: organized and daring.

Princess

The look: This relatively new square shape, with a modern, understated feel, combines a sparkly, brilliant effect with a geometric step-cut. You can attribute its spectacular glitter to extra faceting around the rim.

This choice says you’re: decisive and fun-loving.

Radiant

The look: The diamond’s shape has the outer lines and cut corners of the emerald’s crown while enjoying triangular faceting like the round on the pavilion. It was designed to have the best qualities of both round brilliant and emerald cut diamonds.

This choice says you’re: trend settings and fashionable

Marquise

The look: The marquis shape is an oval with tips. It not only helps to make the hand appear longer and slimmer, but it also makes the diamond appear larger than it actually is.

The choice says you’re: unique and adventurous

Heart

The look: This century-old shape, symbolizing love and devotion, should be well proportioned for optimum sparkle. Kid Rock proposed to Pamela Anderson with a yellow heart-shaped diamond.

This choice says you’re: sentimental and dreamy.

My fiancé has an obsession with rose gold. How can I subtly incorporate that into her engagement or wedding ring without going overboard?

There are many ways to use rose gold to accent and add a splash of color to your engagement or wedding ring, depending on the style ring you choose. A rose gold halo engagement ringis a nice way to incorporate some color to your design. Pink sapphires may further enhance the pink color of the gold, while staying cost effective. Some rose gold scroll work in the gallery of the engagement ring also adds a nice touch. With these tips on rose gold accents you are sure to be safe!

What are some questions I can ask jewelers about conflict free diamonds? What is the Kimberly Process?

Jewelers can now provide Kimberley certificates as proof of a “clean” diamond which they can declare as conflict free.

The Kimberly Process – created in 2003– is a voluntary, self-regulated system that established standards for certifying diamonds. A diamond with a Kimberly certificate guarantees that sales of that diamond did not go to finance a civil war.

You can also feel good in knowing that 100% of Whiteflash’s Dreams of Africa collection profits go to communities impacted by the jewelry trade (WCCCI).

Some initial questions to ask a jeweler regarding conflict diamonds are:

What are your companies conflict diamond policies?
What is your companies definition of conflict free jewelry?
Can you provide official certification from an established grading lab?
Where do you source your diamonds from?

About Us
Whiteflashis the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamondand bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamondsto the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement ringsand wedding bands, custom designed engagement ringsand diamond jewelry.

How do I know if my diamond is conflict free?

So what can you do to make sure you have a guilt-free diamond to say “I do”?

Even before the release of Blood Diamond socially conscious couples have been actively searching for conflict free diamondsfor their engagement and wedding rings.

So-called blood diamonds are typically mined in African war zones and sold to fund devastating civil wars.

For the past 15 years, an estimated 500,000 Angolans, 50,000 people in Sierra Leone, and nearly 4 million people in the Democratic Republic of Congo have died from civil wars funded through the sale of conflict diamonds otherwise known as blood diamonds.

Many couples believe they are avoiding all the brutality associated with blood diamonds when they buy engagement rings tagged as “conflict free,” but that is not necessarily the case. Make sure to ask your jeweler if their diamonds are truly Conflict Free Diamonds.

About Us
Whiteflashis the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamondand bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamondsto the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement ringsand wedding bands, custom designed engagement ringsand diamond jewelry.

Cyber Bling: Tips for Online Diamond Shopping

I’ll confess: I have an online shopping habit. I’ve spent many an evening pouring over the pages of zappos.com while sipping chardonnay. Too many sips, and 4-5 business days later I end up with some really peculiar and definitely impractical shoes delivered right to my front door. This is why I only drink-and-shop in cyber-stores that offer free shipping and have a very relaxed return policy. My husband has the male version of an internet shopping fetish, which drove him to impulse-purchase a new car on EBay a couple years ago. This is not that unusual in and of itself, but the thing that made it interesting was that the car was located several states away from us. This required him to buy two very expensive airplane tickets for us to pick up his great bargain and drive it all the way home. Practical? Not so much. But he gets points for spontaneity.

Given this spotty family history, you may be wondering if you should really seek guidance from me about shopping online for an item as significant as a diamond. Here are two reasons to heed my advice: 1. I did extensive research on the topic, in order to make the process a little bit easier for you (I hope), and 2. I haven’t had any chardonnay today…yet. So here are a few tips and resources to help make your diamond buying experience rewarding and safe. If you navigate the web wisely, you will be able to purchase your ideal ring at an excellent price.

Be an informed customer

Consider getting a guide book such as The Diamond Ring Buyer’s Guide before you shop. The more you know about the four C’s, the grading scale and certification process, the better equipped you will be to get the best bling for your buck.

Search various online retailers in order to get an idea of what a fair price for your gem should be. Helpful comparison tools include the “build your ring” and “compare diamond rings” features that most online stores offer. They should give you free quotes (if they don’t, look elsewhere) without any obligation to buy. Many sites allow you to save your comparison rings so that you can consider several options at once.

Reputation Matters

Shop with an online jeweler who has an established reputation for good business practice (one way to check on this is to make sure that they have a satisfactory rating with the Better Business Bureau). I recommend Whiteflash.com , which is the largest online retailer of certified diamonds and is consistently rated highly by customers and media publications. Whiteflash, and other highly regarded online jewelers like it, can often offer you prices that are as close to wholesale as you’ll get anywhere. Make sure that whatever company you choose offers at least a money back guarantee. They also must provide you with a GIA loose diamond grading certificateor equivalent for your diamond.

More Tips

For more tips on buying a diamond, either online or in person.

Happy Hunting!

Debi

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamondand bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamondsto the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. Whiteflash A Cut Above® (ACA) Diamonds are unmatched in their brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement ringsand wedding bands, custom designed engagement ringsand diamond jewelry.

Trusted Link Partners

Tin Anniversary Presents: A1Gifts.co.uk is a leading UK resource for anniversary & birthday gifts, baby & christening gifts, valentines gifts, gifts for him and for her, gadgets, games and other types of presents. In addition to a range of unique gifts, the site offers help and advice in selecting an appropriate gift, a next day courier service, gift wrapping and the option to send your gift directly to the recipient.

Engagement Ring: Offering an array of Engagement Rings, Diamond Rings, and Fine jewelry at MySolitaire.co.uk

Wedding Website: Wedding Ocean offers beautiful designs and layouts to create wedding site.

Best teen content

JewelryWebz.com - Jewelry Directory: Jewelry Directory.

Gemstones: With Christmas just around the corner fun and frolic is in air. Rejoice this season with amazing jewelry from B2C Jewels, a fine online retail jewelry store. Gift yourself or your loved ones the pride of flaunting beguiling gemstone jewelry, gemstone charms and diamond rings that will add touch of beauty and grace.

Sunglasses: All the hottest and best selling designer frames at heavily discounted prices.

Irish jewelry resource

2GB MP3 players: Find great deals on Discounted Electronics, Cell Phones, Consumer Electronics and MP3 Players and more at everyday low prices.

Party planning services

Emerald Jewelry: Our emerald jewelry including emerald rings, emerald pendants, emerald pendant, emerald necklace, emerald stud earrings and emerald earrings in elegant designs and styles.

Gold Chain: gold chain/gold chains”, “diamond wedding bands”, “diamond wedding rings”

Jewelry Information

Sterling Silver Bracelets, Earrings, Necklaces, Rings: Offering fine sterling silver bracelets, earrings, necklaces, rings, anklets and more, many with genuine gemstones, freshwater pearls and cubic zirconium for men, women, children and babies.

PSP themes: PSP Games Blog & Forum dedicated to Sony PSP Downloads, Movies, Themes, Wallpapers, Cheats, Hacks, Backgrounds and much More!

GPS tracking device: Technology news and Reviews including Computers & Console Gaming, Laptops, Cell Phones, Cameras, Monitors & Printer, Scanners, Servers & More.

Toyota cars: is a blog updated daily with pertinent release date and pricing about branded cars as Ford, Nissan, Mercedes, BMW, Ferrari, Porsche, and much more.

New desktop computers: ComputersFile.com is a blog updated daily with desktop computers, notebooks, laptops news and reviews by Dell, Apple, HP and more.

Sunglasses blog: Sunglasses Blog on the latest designer eyewear news, released dates and pricing including brands as Chanel, Oakley, Dior,Prada and Ray Ban.

Designer sunglasses: Authentic designer sunglasses for mens & womens including Bvlgari, Chanel, Christian Dior and much more.

Buy & Sell Watches Online – Global Watch Market:Global Watch Market is an online market place where people from around the world who are passionate about quality watches are able to find as well as offer the products they wish to purchase or sell, around the clock and all in one convenient location.

WedPlan wedding photographers

LittleWeddingGuide

TopWeddingSites.com

Party Supplies Party Supplies Party Planning Party Themes Party Planning Jewelry in Houston, TX Texas Jewelry Whiteflash.com Mexico Vacations

http://www.hitched.co.uk

http://www.topweddingsites.com/

Caring for Platinum

Store pieces separately, in a jewelry box or chamois bag so they don't get scratched by other items of jewelry
Keep your precious pieces in a safe place and remind your customers to have them sufficiently insured. If you are unsure about the value of your piece take it to your local jeweler for valuation.
Recommend that your customers get their platinum jewelry cleaned periodically. This will help ensure its appearance.
Clean platinum in the same way you clean other fine jewelry - using a pre-packaged jewelry cleaner or by soaking it in a mild solution of soap and warm water then gently rubbing it with a soft cloth.
Let your customer know that adjustments, resizing, polishing and cleaning should be done by a platinum trained bench worker.
Take your platinum piece to a qualified jeweler for polishing if visible scratches appear. All precious metals can scratch and platinum is no exception. However, the scratch on platinum is merely a displacement of the metal and little of its volume is lost.
Platinum develops a patina over time, which is the matte finish that is unique to platinum. If your customer prefers the high shine look, the piece can be taken to a qualified jeweler to have it re-polished to a high gloss look.
Remember that all precious jewelry, including platinum, should not be worn when performing heavy work, labor, or if contact will be made with hard or abrasive surfaces.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows.Whiteflash A Cut Above ® (ACA) Diamonds is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Platinum, an Ancient Lost Treasure

From prehistory to princesses and pop divas - the story of platinum, the so-called 'new metal' is much longer than you would think. Meteorites contain platinum and the earliest recorded meteorite impact on Earth happened 2 billion years ago. Since then, this rare and beguiling treasure has made sporadic appearances throughout history, mysteriously disappearing for centuries at a time, both baffling and enchanting those who have come across it. The Ancient Egyptians, pre-Incan civilizations and the Spanish conquistadors all encountered platinum. It then re-emerged in the 1700s to fascinate kings and alchemists alike. Platinum grew in popularity in the 19th and 20th centuries and today it is the precious metal of choice of movie stars and the glitterati.

METEORITE CRASH

Two billion years ago, long before the age of dinosaurs, when life on this planet is nothing more than simple bacteria, an enormous meteorite crashes to Earth in North America. This is the earliest known meteorite impact. Meteorites are the product of a supernova - an explosion of an enormous star (the remnants of a supernova are pictured here) and are rich in metals such as platinum.

EGYPTIAN BURIAL

1200 BC - The Egyptians import gold, which contains traces of platinum, from the ancient kingdom of Nubia. They make jewelry and adornments from the metal mix. Although no-one knows if their use of platinum is intentional.

700 BC - the daughter of the King of Thebes, the great high priestess Shepenupet, is buried in a magnificent sarcophagus decorated with gold and platinum hieroglyphics. A small document casket made of platinum (pictured here) is also placed in her tomb.

PRE-INCAN ADORNMENTS
100 BC - Ancient South American civilizations, the most famous being the Incas - gifted metal workers and craftsmen, use platinum and gold to create nose rings and other items of ceremonial jewelry. Platinum is then lost to mankind for two millennia, forgotten for thousands of years, only to briefly re-appear when European explorers discover the new world.

CONFUSED CONQUISTADORES

1590 - Platinum is next encountered by the Spanish conquistadores, who give it the derogatory name 'platina', meaning 'little silver'. Spanish naval officer don Antonio de Ulloa y Garcia de la torre was one of the conquistadores to misunderstand the value of platinum. Thirsty for gold, and unimpressed by platinum's appearance, the Spanish mistakenly dismiss it as an inferior metal and throw it back into the rivers of Ecuador to 'ripen'. Once again, platinum mysteriously disappears from history.

ALCHEMY

1700s - In the 18th century, platinum begins to arrive in Europe and soon becomes a highly prized ingredient in the alchemy craze. Because of its chemical qualities, platinum is a desired ingredient in the potions and cocktails of intrepid inventors trying to change lead into gold.

THE METAL OF KINGS

1751 - When Swedish scientist Theophil Scheffer categorizes Platinum as a precious metal it's only a matter of time before it falls into favor with royalty. In the 1780s King Louis XVI of France declares it the only metal fit for kings and, his jeweler Marc Etienne Janety fashions several platinum pieces for him, including an ornate sugar bowl.

PAPAL CHALICE

1788 - Not to be outdone by his French counterpart, King Carlos III of Spain, another platinum enthusiast, commissions Francisco Alonso to craft an ornate platinum chalice, which is presented to Pope Pius VI. The chalice is 12 in (30 cm) high, such a magnificent piece is worth around $75,000 at today's prices.

THE METRIC SYSTEM
1795 - In the wake of the French revolution, France creates the metric system of weights and measures. King Louis XVI's former jeweler, Marc Etienne Janety, who fled during the revolution, is recalled to Paris to create the standard kilogram weight out of platinum. Platinum is the metal of choice for the task, as its durability means it will not wear away and corrupt the standard. This original platinum cylinder is kept at the International Bureau of Weights and Measures in Paris.

FABERGÉ'S FAMOUS EGGS

1884 - Peter Carl Fabergé, jeweler to the Russian tsars, volunteers to create a jewelry egg for Alexander III to give to his wife, Marie. Thus begins an annual Easter tradition and Fabergé jewelry eggs become legendary masterpieces, adorned with precious gems and platinum. As it is being made, each egg is a closely guarded secret, always containing a surprise inside, such as this one with a fully functioning gold and platinum wind up model train to celebrate the completion of the Trans-Siberian railway. After the Russian revolution of 1917, the Fabergé collection is dispersed and many of the eggs are later sold in the West.

PALATIAL PLATINUM ROOM

Late 1800s - Platinum mania spreads across Europe and Russia. Kings, queens, tsars and maharajas bedeck themselves in platinum and even use platinum thread in royal gowns. Carlos IV of Spain commissions the creation of a 'Platinum Room' at the royal palace in Aranjuez. Reflecting the grandeur and splendor of the era, the room features hard wood decoration encrusted with platinum.

CARTIER
Early 1900s - Louis Cartier becomes the first person to successfully create platinum jewelry, revealing for the first time the hidden characteristics of the metal. Cartier uses platinum in his "Garland Style" pieces and to enhance the brilliance of diamonds. His skill in working with platinum is unrivaled and he is hailed by King Edward VII of England as the "jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers". Not only kings but maharajas clamour for Cartier creations, with the maharaja of Patiala wearing a turban ornament (pictured here) and necklace made by Cartier.

THE TITANIC

1912 - On her maiden voyage from Southampton, England to New York, the world's largest luxury ocean liner, the Titanic, strikes an iceberg about 400 miles south of Newfoundland and sinks. Some 1,500 people lose their lives. In the wake of the disaster New York high society adopts a trend for wearing black and white "mourning jewelry" and platinum is a popular choice of white metal in these mourning designs.

A MAJOR DISCOVERY

1924 - German geologist Hans Merensky discovers the world's largest platinum deposit near Johannesburg, South Africa. The modern platinum industry is born.

PLATINUM BLONDES

1930s - With the invention of "talkies", the leading ladies of Hollywood become an inspiration to a nation of Americans, looking to the big screen for escapism during the great depression. Actresses such as Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich, adorn themselves in platinum jewelry. Platinum's success in Hollywood is summed up by the title character in Frank Capra's movie 'Platinum Blonde', played by Jean Harlow.

BRITISH ROYALS

1936-7 - King Edward VIII of England abdicates so he can marry divorcee Wallis Simpson. George VI is made king. At the coronation, his wife, Queen Elizabeth (the late Queen Mother) is crowned with an elegant platinum crown holding the famous Koh-I-Noor diamond. Edward, now the Duke of Windsor, marries Wallis Simpson and they exchange platinum wedding bands made by Cartier. Wallis, Duchess of Windsor is an expert collector of jewelry and declares platinum the one and only choice for evening wear.

WORLD WAR II
1939-1945 - With the outbreak of war in 1939, platinum is declared a strategic metal in the USA, used for the manufacture of armaments. Its use for making jewelry is forbidden. In the post war era however, platinum's popularity is once again reborn as the passion for jewelry is rekindled. At the "White Heat" exhibition in New York in 1947 a number of precious platinum and diamond pieces are displayed, proving that platinum is back in vogue.

ELVIS AND PRISCILLA SAY "I DO"

1967 - Elvis Presley marries his sweetheart Priscilla Anne Beaulieu in a private ceremony at the Aladdin hotel in Las Vegas, USA. Their wedding rings are in platinum. The next few decades see platinum jewelry's popularity grow, especially for wedding bands and bridal jewelry in the USA, with many brides opting to say "I do" with platinum.

CINDERELLA'S PLATINUM SHOE

1997 - Thanks to a remarkable platinum creation a fairytale became reality when Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo of Tokyo, Japan, created a Cinderella shoe using 41/2 lbs (2 kg) of platinum metals. The amazing piece was displayed at the Ideal Home exhibition in the UK and a small gift (sadly not the shoe) was awarded to the woman who fitted the size of the shoe exactly.

THE RED CARPET MUST HAVE

Today- Platinum has become the precious metal of choice of the world's glitterati, loved by stars such as Sir Elton John. When movie stars Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones married in November 2000 they chose platinum wedding bands. Platinum is paraded down the red carpet at award ceremonies and worn by Oscar winners such as Halle Berry.

Platinum Basics

SOME TECHNICAL BASICS

Weight: 21.45 grams per cubic centimeter
Melting Point: 3,223ºF (1,786ºC)
Refining: It takes eight weeks to make an ingot from the ore
Production: Each year approximately 88 tons of platinum are made into jewelry
Properties: Catalyst, hypoallergenic, resistant to heat and acids
Platinum group metals: Ruthenium, Palladium, Rhodium, Iridium, Osmium
Measuring perfection: 1,000 parts = 100% platinum

Purity levels and marks
Country	Purity levels	Stamp
China	900, 950	Pt
Germany	850,950, 999	Pt950, pt999
India	950	Pt950 (by an assay office)
Italy	950 up (but EEC is 850, 900, 950 and up)	Pt950 and sometimes the word platinum (no assay office, done by manufacturer)
Japan	850, 900, 950, 999. 1000	Pt then purity level
US	850, 900, 950+ are the most common purity levels	Platinum, pt, plat (no standard)

Platinum alloys for jewelry
Alloy	Chemical symbol	Recommended usage
Platinum - Copper	Pt - Cu	Medium hard for general purpose
Platinum - Palladium	Pt - Pd	Easier to use for delicate settings
Platinum - Cobalt	Pt - Co	For casting, wedding bands and fine wire
Platinum - Tungsten	Pt - W	Extra hard, for safety catches, pins, springs, watch backs
Platinum - Palladium - Copper	Pt - Pd - Cu	Copper for chain making and general purpose
Platinum - Ruthenium	Pt - Ru	Casting, Machining and Fabricating
Platinum - Iridium	Pt - Ir	Fabricating, Casting (950 Pt - Ir too soft for casting )

Brides feel platinum is 'worth the price'

Brides feel that paying more for platinum wedding and engagement rings is worth the extra costs, instyle.com has said.

According to the fashion website, platinum is a "far more durable metal" than other materials, meaning it will last a lifetime.

The precious white metal will show fewer nicks and scratches and platinum prongs hold a diamond more securely, it adds.

In addition, many people believe that its white color shows off a diamond better than yellow metals, which can cast an unflattering hue on the stone.

Tips offered by the website for buying the perfect platinum engagement ring include choosing a band covered in tiny pave diamonds rather than a single solitaire, which is often less expensive.

Buying a diamond just below a whole carat weight, such as 1.9 carats, can add up to a 30 per cent saving as many jewelers charge a premium for whole carat weights.

Country pop star Taylor Swift chose platinum jewellery for her appearance on the Tonight Show with Jay Leno last week.

The 19-year-old star selected a pair of ornate diamond drop chandelier earrings to wear for her performance, along with a black sparkling dress and peep-toe shoes.

Top 10 Must-Own Jewelry Classics

Some jewelry is trendy, sticks around for a couple of years and then disappears. But some jewelry is so timeless that it looks great no matter what the current trends are. Those pieces are great to have in your accessory wardrobe - they’ll allow you to accessorize almost any outfit in your closet!

In no particular order, here are my top 10 picks for the jewelry that every woman should own:

A simple pair of diamond studs(or cubic zirconium or small faceted clear quartz if you’re on a tight budget). My diamond studs are my everyday earrings - they work equally well with jeans or a dress. Go plain, not to big and pick a metal color you like.
Pearl necklace - again, if you’re on a budget, fresh water pearls are a great option at a fraction of the price.
A simple gold or silver chain. You can add diamond pendants or charms, or just go plain. White gold and yellow gold are popular options.
A cocktail ring. Cocktail rings also known as right hand ringscan add a great dash of glamour to an outfit - buy one that you love, it represents your personal style!
Small hoop earrings. Hoop earrings are a great casual earring, and they’re one of those timeless designs that will be around forever.
A statement necklace. Statement necklaces are for those occasions that call for high-impact style. Don’t go with trends - buy a necklace that’s going to last. On a budget? Check out Etsy or other indie jewelry shops for some great deals from upcoming designers.
Simple gold or silver charm bracelet. I know some people may think this pick is a little odd, but charm bracelets can go from classic and timeless to bold and trendy. Go with a simple design and add just one charm (how about a pearl or a faceted glass stone?) for a fancy event.
Quality watch - if you can wear a watch, they’re worth saving and getting a good-quality watch that shows your own personal style.
A brooch or pin. Brooches can be a tricky accessory to pull off sometimes, but chose a simple style in silver or gold and you’ll be set with a classic.
A statement bracelet. Like a statement necklace, a statement bracelet is for when you need to go bold with your personal style. Timeless picks include simple cuff bracelets or bracelets using faceted gems or glass.

What Will Be the Hottest, Hippest 2009 Wedding Trends

If you’re planning a wedding, you’re probably wondering what will be trendy and hip. There’s no denying that 2009 Wedding Trends will be heavily influenced by two things. Firstly, the economy. It seems dreary to be constantly talking about how the economy will impact your life, but fortunately, I’m already seeing ways in which a smaller budget has inspired couples to have more creative, intimate, and personal weddings.

These weddings are benefiting from a heavy dose of style, influenced by the many images and ideas circulating around the blogosphere. This chic style will be the second biggest influence this year. Rather than huge weddings, where cost cutting means a lack of details or fun, the 2009 wedding trends are full of fabulous details meant for smaller, affordable weddings.

Here’s what I predict will be the top 2009 wedding trends:

Farm Weddings No, I’m not talking about getting married amongst the combines, or having a cow for your bridesmaid. But farms can be an affordable place to get married with a lot of charm. Several of them allow your guests to interact with the animals, while others just provide idyllic pastoral settings. Add some additional down-home touches like gingham tablecloths, pitchers of jam or other country wedding style. Look for a farm that has a barn suitable for a reception.

Small luxurious weddings Budgets might be tight, but that doesn’t mean that luxury and glamour are going away. Instead, couples are opting for intimate glamorous affairs. By having fewer guests, they can have more opulent details, like elaborate favors, beautiful wines and gourmet tasting menus. With such a backdrop, it then feels right to be in your tuxedos and gowns, surrounded only by your truest friends and loved ones.

Macarons The delightful French cookies not only have a delicious almond flavor and light texture, but bakers have a tradition of making them in bright eye-catching colors, making them perfect for weddings. The newest trend is creating a tower of macarons instead of a wedding cake, but they’re also stunning as favors or as accompaniment to wedding cake.

Gray For the past few years, chocolate brown has been the “It Color” popping up in weddings as a hip neutral, and combined with bright pink or cheery yellow. While chocolate brown isn’t going anywhere, the hippest new color for 2009 is gray. You may think of gray as too dreary a color for weddings, but on the contrary, it can serve as a sophisticated foil to brighter colors. It’s great paired with pink or yellow, but perhaps the hottest combination this year will be silver and royal purple.

Affordable and Rewearable Bridesmaid Dresses Forget the peach tulle atrocities of yesteryear. 2009 brides are considerate, and mindful of the economy, so they’re looking for bridesmaid dresses that are truly rewearable, and don’t come with a sky-high price tag. For a beach wedding, consider telling your bridesmaids that they can wear a knee-length, spaghetti-strap dress in any shade of blue. They’ll not only be able to shop the department store sales, but your wedding reflects the beautiful colors of the ocean. If you still want a unified bridal party look, consider gathering your maids for a group shopping expedition.

Vintage Fashion and Fascinators Having a vintage-inspired wedding is a great way to add some style without adding a lot of cost. 1920’s weddings will be especially hot this year. Especially look for brides wearing birdcage veils and fascinators. If you’re a Project Runway fan, you’ll definitely recall Kenley’s fascinators – the feathery charms that perch on your head. But many other designers also make a wide range of fascinators. They look vintage and modern, whimsical and classic, all at the same time.

Diamond Fashion for the Bridal Party Have your bridal party sparkling with diamonds on your big day. Whether is be diamond earrings, diamond bracelets, or diamond rings make sure that your bridal party is blinged out for the big event.

How to Read and Understand a Diamond Grading Report

What is a "Diamond Grading Report"?

First a quick note. GIA has contacted us requesting that we use the term Diamond Grading Report rather than Certificate. Their concern seems to be that a Certificate might imply that the lab is certifying the diamond, which some may view as an endorsement of the item rather than a description. That is an important distinction, one that probably came years after GIA's lab started offering reports. However people in the trade still use the term certificate or cert for short. So we will respect GIA's wishes, but want you to be aware of the issue.

Before we dive into the anatomy of an actual Diamond Grading Report, it is important to understand the purpose of the Report. A Diamond Grading Report is a statement, issued by an independent Gemological Laboratory, that at the time of evaluation, the Diamond in question has been examined by experienced Diamond Graders, using various gemological instruments, and determined to contain the characteristics as stated in the Report. As we discuss the various elements contained in the report, we will describe which gemological instruments were used to evaluate the specific property under discussion.

The reason it is important to have a Diamond evaluated by an independent Laboratory is that minute, invisible to the naked-eye, characteristics of a Diamond can have a major influence on the price. Therefore, if not for a great deal of scrutiny on the part of the buyer, it is easy to mistakenly purchase a Diamond of lower value, believing it to be of higher value.

Note that since this article was first written, different versions of diamond grading reports have come out. We do revisit this page from time to time to make sure new elements are incorporated into the article. But if the report you have does not look exactly the same as these pictures, do not worry.

We recommend strongly that you do not buy any diamond without a Grading Report. GIA is the foremost Laboratory in the world, though there are other reputable labs out there. However, not all labs are made alike. GIA created the standards and all respectable labs follow them. They have the best instruments and the most advanced gem lab in the world. That's why all the most important diamonds in the world carry GIA reports. From the Hope Diamond to the Heart of Eternity, the Millennium Star, the Tiffany, the Premier Rose and The Incomparable.

If you found a Diamond you like, and it is not certified (i.e. does not carry a grading report) there is nothing wrong with asking your Jeweler to send it to GIA. If your Jeweler has a problem with that, then you should start asking your jeweler and yourself more questions! This request is a standard practice in the Diamond Industry.

What's in a name?

The number one most important item to look for on a Diamond Grading Report is the name of the laboratory! If you never heard of the Laboratory, do some research on them. Post a note in our forum asking about them.

Certificate (Grading Report) Number

Every lab has a certificate (or " report") number, which uniquely identifies a Diamond. The Lab keeps an internal copy of everything which you see on the certificate, plus some additional information for their files. If you call up the Lab and give them the cert number, they can even reissue a certificate (report) if you lose it.

Laser Inscription Registry

The laser inscription registry refers to the fact that all diamonds receiving a GIA Diamond Dossier® is micro-laser inscribed with its unique GIA Report number.

Shape and Cutting Style

Shape refers to the outline of the diamond. Examples include:
Round, Pear, Heart and Oval.
Cutting Style refers to the facet arrangement. Examples include:
Brilliant, Marquise, Emerald, Princess, Step and Mixed.

Measurements

Measurements of the Diamond's diameter:
For round diamonds these would be "minimum diameter - maximum diameter x depth" whereas for fancy shape diamonds it would be "length x width x depth". These measurements are calculated to the hundredth of a millimeter by a non-contact measuring device or a micrometer.

Size Matters

Diamonds are weighed to the thousandth of a carat with a digital measuring device. On the grading report, weight is rounded to the hundredth of a carat.

Add Color to your Day

Color ranges from the best grade of D, down to Z. After Z are Fancy Colors. Color grade is determined by examining the Diamond next to a master set of color comparison stones, under special lighting.

On a Clear Day you can see Diamonds Are Forever

Clarity ranges from the best grade of IF, down through VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2 until I3. Clarity is a reflection of the number, size, placement and nature of inclusions and/or surface irregularities on the Diamond. The experienced Diamond Grader examines the Diamond with the aid of a Stereo Microscope, which aids in identifying the nature of an inclusion, or finding pinpoints (very, very tiny crystals inside the Diamond). However, the actual grade is based only on what is visible under a 10X Loupe.

Cut Grade

The Cut Grade is a new feature of the GIA report.

Finish, Polish & Symmetry

Finish describes the polish of a Diamond and how symmetrical, or how evenly, the facets have been placed.

Polish refers to the quality of the polish on the facets. An excellent polish reflects the care taken by the Diamond cutter.

Symmetry refers to how precisely the facets are aligned to each other. It is easy to detect this property with a loupe. Look at the table of your Diamond. Does the right side look like a mirror of the left? Do all the facets have more or less the same shape, or do they vary greatly?

Fluorescence

Fluorescence refers to a Diamond's reaction to long wave ultraviolet radiation. If a Diamond has too much fluorescence, some feel strong fluorescence can make a Diamond less desirable. Below are example values for Fluorescence. (None, Very Faint, Faint, Faint Blue, Medium Blue, Strong Blue, Very Strong Blue, Faint Yellow, Medium Yellow, Strong Yellow, Very Strong Yellow)

Comments, Comments, Comments

Comments are used to describe characteristics not discussed elsewhere on the certificate, or to mention items not plotted. For example, "minor details of polish are not shown" is a common comment.

The Plot Thickens!

A Plot is a graphical representation of the imperfections of the Diamond. Each Diamond is as unique as a fingerprint. By plotting its characteristics, and combining this with the physical measurements of a Diamond, a Lab can uniquely identify each stone. This plot helps the Grader in the even that a customer returns to the Lab and requests a verification that the Diamond presented with a certificate refers to the same Diamond described in the Certificate. Internal characteristics are plotted in red, and external characteristics are plotted in green.

Key to symbols

The key to symbols helps you identify characteristics marked in the plot.

Security Features

There are several security features in place to make it hard to forge a grading report, including upc codes and a hologram. If you want to make sure that a diamond matches the grading report, have an independent appraiser, one who does not sell diamonds, verify the report for you. The reason the appraiser needs to be independent is so that there is no conflict of interest. An appraiser who would love to sell you a diamond is less likely to be fair to a diamond you bring in than someone who doesn't sell or get a commission for a diamond sale.

A picture speaks a thousand words

Gia has modified their report to include proportion information in graphical format. The following sections will only appear in older reports.

It's all Proportional

Depth percent refers to the percent of the depth of the Diamond, table to culet, relative to the width of the stone.
The Table of a Diamond refers to its largest facet, the main part of the Diamond you look at when the stone is face-up.
Table percent refers to the table size as a percentage of the Diamond's average width.
These ratios help determine how "well" the Diamond has been cut.

Girdles

The Girdle of a Diamond is the dividing line between the crown, or top part of the stone and the pavillion, or bottom part of the stone. Girdle thickness can be very thin in part of a stone and very thick in another part. That is why it is expressed as a range. The girdle can also be faceted, or not. A faceted girdle usually improves the look of the stone, and involves having the cutter polish facets into the girdle. You may also see some diamonds with a laser inscription right on the girdle. It is relatively inexpensive to have a custom message inscribed and it doesn't affect carat weight. Below are example Girdle Thicknesses.

Culet

The Culet of a Diamond, if there is one, is the facet on the pointy bottom part of the Diamond. Its existence helps prevent chipping. Below are possible culet sizes. (None, Very Small, Medium, Slightly Large, Large, Very Large, Extremely Large)

Where's the value?

Value or price is not included in a Diamond Grading Report. The grading report reflects quality only, not pricing. The report is meant to be valid long after market prices have changed. If you want a paper to certify value at time of purchase for insurance purposes, get an appraisal. It might be a good idea to contact your insurance broker to find out what type of appraisals they accept and what the replacement value will be based on.

What is the difference between a Diamond Grading Report and an Appraisal?

Diamond Grading Report is a document issued by a Gemological Laboratory describing a Loose Diamond. The laboratory will not issue reports on Diamonds which are set in a mounting. A Diamond Grading Report (certificate) issues a "grade" indicating the physical properties of the Diamond "at the time of evaluation". A certificate is a document which retains its value over a long period of time, assuming the Diamond does not chip or is not otherwise altered.

An appraisal can be performed on a loose diamond, a mounted stone, or jewelry. If the stone is not loose, the physical properties are estimated using various estimation techniques. Most importantly, an appraisal indicates the Dollar Value of the piece under consideration. Obviously, the Dollar Value can easily change considerably over a relatively short period of time. Appraisals are most often used for insurance purposes.

Many people make the mistake of using an in-house appraiser to evaluate the purchase price of their Diamond. This is a big mistake. Firstly, appraisals are often over-estimated, and are therefore a very poor estimation of price. More importantly, any in-house Jeweler may be biased towards their own merchandise.

To further complicate matters, many people have become more educated when it comes to buying Diamonds, and have learned that its important to have a GIA certificate. What they have not learned, unfortunately, is how to differentiate between a GIA GTL (Gem Trade Lab) Grader, and a GIA G.G. or Graduate Gemologist. Many assume that getting an appraisal by a GIA gemologist is the same as getting a GIA Grading Report. Some unscrupulous Jewelers attempt to further that illusion.

The GTL (Gem Trade Lab) Grader is a GIA employee who performs the Diamond Grading for the Institute. A GIA Graduate Gemologist, on the other hand, has simply passed the GIA Diamonds, Diamond Grading and Colored Stone, Gem Identification and Colored Stone Grading courses.

The GTL grader has all of the above and more. S/he is far better trained in grading and usually has far more experience than a G.G. Further, the GTL grader does not have the same vested interest in the outcome of the grade of the stone they are evaluating

Love Has Gone Platinum

Two people, three platinum rings. Select the pure, rare and eternal qualities of platinum for your three bridal rings – the engagement ring, which represents the promise of marriage, and the two wedding bands, signifying a lifelong commitment of marriage. These three rings will be worn every day as a symbol of what you mean to one another.

Platinum is usually 90-95% pure, which means you’re not only getting more of what you are paying for, you’ll be wearing something pure, natural and authentic as a token of your love. Platinum's purity also makes it naturally hypoallergenic and ideal for those with sensitive skin.

The same qualities that make platinum ideal for the engagement ring make it equally fitting for wedding bands. Platinum’s natural white color, which never turns, fades or changes over time, will hold its true white luster forever.

Plan to spend three months’ salary for all three rings. And complete your wedding bands selection and purchase six months before the wedding. Too many couples put off this expenditure until the last minute and are forced into a compromised decision when funds become more scarce.

Feel the platinum difference. While the physical density of platinum gives it substance and weight that denotes quality, there is something more to the feeling of platinum, and it goes beyond its inherent pure, rare and eternal qualities. It's knowing that whether together or apart, you are forever bonded wearing the very best money can buy – and that wearing your platinum bands means you can feel each other's love. Feeling is believing.

Diamonds Prefer Platinum

Diamonds Qualities

Pure

Platinum jewelry is usually 90-95% pure, which means you get more of what you are paying for. A naturally white metal, platinum maximizes the brilliance of your diamond. And because platinum is naturally hypoallergenic, it is ideal for those with sensitive skin.

Rare

Platinum is 30 times more rare than gold, which means you will be getting or giving something exceptional that not everyone can possess.

Eternal

The platinum rings you give and receive on your wedding day will be the same rings you’ll be wearing on your 50th wedding anniversary. Why? Because platinum loses little metal to everyday wear. Platinum also provides a very secure setting for diamonds, which means more peace of mind. And, platinum is incredibly dense -- at least 60% heavier than other precious metals -- which means it doesn't just look great, it feels great, too!

Celebrate your engagement, eternal commitment of marriage and life’s special occasions with diamond jewelry set in platinum.

Prized for their beauty, diamonds are the most popular choice for an engagement ring. And platinum is a diamond's best friend.

Platinum contains no yellow color hue or alloys to tinge a diamond’s brilliance, and platinum's natural white luster is unaffected by time. Therefore, platinum enhances a diamond’s natural fire and sparkle, which means your engagement ring diamond will explode with brilliance forever.

The rarity of platinum goes hand in hand with the uniqueness of a diamond, making your engagement ring one-of-a-kind and the perfect symbol of the exceptional love that you share.

Platinum's unequaled durability, density and resistance to wear make it the most protective metal for settings. Engagement ring diamonds should be set in the most secure setting available, and that’s what platinum offers. Once set, the platinum prongs surrounding your diamond are less likely to shift than with other precious metals, and won’t wear away over time. This ensures a lifetime of wear for your diamond engagement ring, and peace of mind for you. And, this unmatched durability makes Platinum the ideal metal to be passed down from generation to generation.

Caring for Platinum

Ensure your precious platinum pieces remain in perfect condition with these tips on jewelry storage, cleaning and maintenance.

Store pieces separately in a jewelry box or chamois bag so they don't get scratched by other items of jewelry.

Clean platinum in the same way you clean other fine jewelry - using a pre-packaged jewelry cleaner or by soaking it in a mild solution of soap and warm water. Finish by gently rubbing it with a soft cloth.

Be cautious when handling bleach or harsh chemicals when wearing any fine jewelry. Although they won't hurt platinum, chemicals may discolor diamonds or gemstones.

Treat fine jewelry with care - including your platinum wedding jewelry. It should not be worn while doing housework, gardening and other types of heavy work, sports or manual labor.

The Scratch Factor

All precious metals scratch. It's a natural part of everyday wear. However, when platinum is scratched, the metal is merely displaced and very little is lost.

Diamond Engagement Ring Design Trends

Fri, 17 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

From the grace of halo to the sophistication of micro pave, design trends in diamond engagement rings and wedding band settings are changing, reflecting today's busy lifestyles. Ergonomic designs reign supreme in today's market, no longer does pure panache determine the design that leads to 'I Do.'

"Some brides prefer an ergonomic design that can comfortably be worn day in and day out," says Debi Wexler, President of Whiteflash.com. "Others look for added style in an intricate or trendy setting; which, unfortunately, can be limiting when it comes everyday wear," adds Wexler. Whiteflash.com is an e-jewelry boutique specializing in Hearts & Arrows diamonds and custom-designed engagement rings.

Here's a peek at the up-and-coming trends in engagement rings according to the boutique's jewelry designers:

Myth: solitaires stand tall

Not true of today's diamond solitaire settings, says Wexler. "Solitaire settings are traditionally upswept, raising the diamond to make a very bold statement," he adds. "However, people are also choosing settings where the center diamond sits down low, creating a look that is extremely elegant and also ergonomic." With the diamond down in the setting, brides-to-be are able to wear the engagement ring in everyday work and play situations long after they say their "I Do's.

Halos make a comeback

The likely reason for that comeback, according to Wexler, is that the halo-style diamond engagement ring makes the center diamond appear larger than it really is. "And the appearance of a high carat weight in the center stone is extremely important for many who are headed to the altar," says Wexler. Whiteflash.com has introduced several halo designs to its line of diamond engagement rings in the past year, including one with beaded diamonds along the shank as well as around the center stone, Increased sales prove the design's resurgence and staying power.

A toast to the 'Champagne' setting

One design stunning even to the most fashion-savvy is the diamond 'Champagne' setting. "Those who desire this setting know exactly what they're looking for/diamonds_info.and that's something unique," says Wexler. "The Champagne style of setting has an unmistakable following." The designers at Whiteflash.com deserve a toast of the bubbly for their interpretation of the Champagne-style bubble design in their U-prong Champagne engagement ring/diamonds_info.among others.

Wexler says the company's Champagne fashions have produced a great deal of spin-off custom-design work, much of which incorporates exclusive Whiteflash ACA melee diamonds. "The design of the Champagne diamond setting intermixes several components/diamonds_info.it's these combined features that really draw[s] people to it," he says.

"Often people ask us to replicate one aspect or another of the Champagne design into a custom project, and of course we don't hesitate to do so." According to Wexler, the U-Prong, domed shank and accent diamonds are examples of features that can be applied to any custom piece. "Our Whiteflash ACA melee diamonds have been adopted into thousands of projects, and are a stunning complement to any setting style," comments Wexler.

Delicate pave and micro-pave designs

The old debate: Delicate versus complex, which is better? According to the designers at Whiteflash.com, this season the style leans more heavily towards delicacy rather than complexity.

The diamond pave setting is widely admired for its refinement. To give the setting its simplistic, yet exquisite appearance, beads of metal are raised to create secure channels where the diamonds sit securely in the ring. According to the craftsmen at Whiteflash.com, the raised metal of the band (or ring) is used to create the tiny prongs that hold the petite diamonds in place.

Center stage: Eternity bands

The pave and micro pave diamond engagement rings come into play when customers are looking at smaller diamond settings like the eternity band. According to Wexler there has been a recent push for smaller diamonds in settings. "In some cases even solitaire engagement rings are being replaced with semi, and even full diamond eternity bands," he says. The trend is likely a response to the aforementioned movement towards dainty-looking styles and those that offer daily wear. Eternity bands traditionally are set with diamonds anywhere from one to three points (carats).

Brides trade up

The 'trading-up' trend will never fade into obscurity. "We've found that it makes a difference in the design process if the bride-to-be is involved up front," says Wexler. "If the groom chooses to go it alone, he typically gravitates toward a simple design with a smaller-than-desired diamond. And what happens next? The bride-to-be upgrades the size of her diamonds, even adding side stones, and looks for a setting more suited to their tastes."

'Trading up' need not always be done up front. Many couples consider upgrades for important milestones like anniversaries, birthdays and holidays. "While her diamond engagement ring was [current] as a newlywed, many years later she might change or modify her setting to reflect transition in her own life or to keep up with current jewelry trends," says Wexler. "Even if she keeps the setting forever, there is a chance that down the road she may require a larger diamond. We have many repeat customers who upgrade their diamonds with us," she finishes.

Whiteflash.com anticipates change as a constant and has made it simple for customers to upgrade with a unique guarantee: Every certified diamond sold at Whiteflash.com comes with a lifetime trade-up option. The company will accept the return of any original purchase and extend full credit in the amount of the original purchase price. The credit can be used to purchase a different diamond.

"Marriage is a lifetime commitment," Wexler says. "When you choose Whiteflash.com, we'll be there for a lifetime with you."

Diamond Solitaire Engagement Rings

Diamond Solitaire Rings on you mind? Does your lover cherish solitaire rings? Here are tips on choosing a beautiful diamond ringfor your lover. Like most other purchases, start your search by browsing the net for your purchase. Here are some useful tips on comparing and buying diamond jewelryonline.

Diamond Engagement Rings
What are the most exciting diamond engagement ringson the market? Perhaps, the most elegant engagement rings are diamond solitaire rings in popular styles including basket diamond engagement rings, trellis diamond engagement rings, cathedral diamond engagement rings, bezel set diamond engagement rings and of course the Tiffany classic diamond solitaire rings

Unique Engagement Rings
For unique diamond engagement rings, browse online antique style engagement rings and antique looking diamond rings. Many couples design their own unique engagement rings. There are also unique engagement rings based on reproductions of engagement rings through the centuries. These unique diamond engagement rings include antique diamond solitaire rings, antique platinum engagement rings, plain antique ring settings and antique wedding bands.

Certified Diamonds - Diamond Solitaire Rings

Certified diamondsare a wise choice when buying diamond solitaire rings. The major organizations that issue certified diamond certificates are the GIA and EGL. Buying certified diamonds gives you a sense of security as to your diamonds quality. Equally important, certified diamonds are readily accepted by insurance companies. Also, if you ever want to sell or trade, certified diamonds will bring more money and sell much quicker then other stones that are not certified diamonds.

Men's Jewelry: Trends and Styles

Shopping for diamond jewelry can be fun and exciting when you get to bring home your treasure. And on top an added joy one gets being in the fashion world with this stylized treasure of diamond and gold in the form of amazing gifts, for enduring self, or for many other reasons. Diamond jewelry is a sign of wealth and it has become a vital part of fashion and today is surely attracting men around the globe.

There is definitely a very special man in everyone’s life who means a lot more than the entire world. In order to boost up your love, make him precious in the world with stunning macho diamond jewelry that symbolizes a person's status and position in society.

For his birthday gifting him men’s diamond jewelry showing the symbol of status will help you truly pamper your man or as it also reflects a sense of spirituality along with dignity and the fact that it is indeed a profitable investment.

When he’s all set up for the party, present him with an elegant diamond watch. I assure you he will be swept off with surprise. If he loves to wear colorful gems, gift him classy most popular masculine gemstone cuff links matching his party wear. Whatever you choose, make sure you get the true value of your precious diamond, however do not get duped away with false stones and frauds.

Whiteflash is the leading online certified diamond jewelers. Whiteflash gives you a golden chance to grab the piece of jewelry you admired at a cost that suits your pocket from the wide range of designs for appealing oneself or as gifts to your beloved. Yes, you may gift your man this precious diamond to show your unique love. Not only do they make a precious gift, one can also use it as an asset for investing purpose retaining and increasing your money with this fashionable unique piece besides carrying a rich personality.

Whiteflash is friendly and is connected to you all to give you the best due to its past experience. Being manufacturer, the retail cost is cut to give you this true jewelry at low cost. The specialized agents at Whiteflash will help you through all the formalities and will give you all the do’s and don’ts.

Men’s diamond bracelets feature many styles, and you're sure to find one you'll enjoy wearing. The whole point of creating a brand at Whiteflash is to differentiate you from others.

If you don’t have a large budget you may go with affordable yet exclusive and trendy diamond cuff links or simply lavishing diamond tie pins to match your formal attire. Value of diamond and colored stones vary greatly in price and quality. You also have an option of customization to get the item in your budget.

There are elaborate and elegant diamond rings for men which not only looks masculine but also adorns your fingers. The diamond rings are coupled with other precious metals like gold, platinum and silver that is both masculine and stylish, and it forms excellent gift material for all the season. You can also create your own design and the talented craftsmen will make that unique piece that too keeping your budget in mind.

Ear studs have become a status symbol for many and on top an excellent gifts for men who want to present a stunning look.

Diamond is just like the bright sun spreading its rays all over to us, this tiny part of the sun, “a diamond”, spreads its glitters all over our body, in our heart, on our face and the output of those sparkles glittering in our eyes. It really has an enduring power one realizes only after wearing it and the changes one may feel within. Diamond is a gifted stone on earth that can charge up your spirits and inject passion in your nerve.

Jewelry has been used for a number of reasons such as currency, wealth display, symbolism, and so on. Most ascendants had a practice of keeping large amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewelry and today’s generation of those ascendants are blessed with luck of healthy richness and are leading a luxurious life.

Buying other non precious items lose its value once bought and after few days of use are thrown away which simply means you wasted your money just for few days of happiness. A smart person will always go for diamond or gold jewelry that last forever giving lasting happiness while retaining the amount you spent.

Diamonds: The Jewelry in Vogue

Jewelry that is in vogue is made to suit different personalities, facial features and physique. An aesthetic concoction of precious metals, gemstones and more importantly unique custom designs, crafted into a beautiful piece of jewelry at times would look like it has been made keeping you in mind. Well this is what one feels when they get to glance at some of the dainty, bold or eye-catching latest trendiest designs.’

Even the conventional designs are given a modish finish. What more could jewelry lovers ask for? Jewelry could be an option for a number of occasions and at times you really don’t need an occasion to put on some smart jewelry to go with your formal everyday wear.

If you’re a workingwoman and you’re looking for some regular wear which is simple and trendy diamonds are the best options for earrings. Make sure it is set as a cluster or a specific design, like a petal or a flower, either in yellow gold or platinum. This is in fact one of the most popular and eye-catching designs. A diamond pendent in the shape of a loop or a knot that is set in glittering 18k gold is a great combination with the same.

Fashion jewelry is a great gifting option and people love wearing them. The beautiful stones and colorful pearls keep this section of jewelry apart and outstanding when compared to the rest. Diamond Engagement Rings could be a fabulous choice to gift young girls who enjoy wearing and experiencing some trendiest jewelry designs. Tiffany glass jewelry has gained popularity of late for the way it gels impeccably well with all kinds of formal wear and still keeps you looking special! It comes in lovely colors to match or create a contrast with your clothes, skin color or even hair color. The abstract figures on these pendants could add to the excitement and novelty in design!

Diamond necklaces, Diamond earrings and bracelets are gifts that would warm the hearts of your loved ones, marking occasions like the Valentines Day!

Jewelry that would befit every occasion is a rare find. But most jewelry designers are striving to get a breakthrough with some of the most unprecedented craftsmanship. Experimenting with this motive has got these creative minds to come up with some exclusive collection for all Diamond jewelry lovers. Being yellow and thinking yellow as far as gems and stones are concerned is the in thing this season. Besides, black is a never-dying classic that blends surprisingly with all attires and occasions. Earrings that hang loose over your shoulder be it in loops, chandeliers or just simple bead lines, keep you looking different from the rest. Give your slender wrists a delicate touch with chain like, or wire mesh like Diamond bracelets. You could set a new wave in your social circle! Coming to pendants, being bold is the key. The bigger, the better! Loosen off all your inhibitions and get your confident looks with some strikingly big and intricate pendants.

Jewelry could be either machine made or hand made. With technology seeing new horizons, the jewelry industry has waded far beyond imagination. People’s desire for something new is a key motivator for industries to develop skill craftsmen and designers. When it comes to Diamonds the right number of cuts is what surfaces the perfect glitter and brilliance of the cherished stone. Similarly brands also give people a chance to design their own jewelry, where public opinion and expertise is an added advantage to bring about a new maneuver in the existing jewelry trends. So don’t waste a minute but explore experiment and spruce up with the jewelry in vogue!

Diamond Anniversary Rings- An Overwhelming Expression of Love

You probably are on the brink of completing a year of happy marriage. Do you know what could be an exotic way of winning the heart of your beloved wife? Diamond anniversary rings to gift yourselves could be an exotic and sentimental way of reminding yourself of the vows of togetherness that you at no point of time would want to stray away from. This is indeed an ultimate expression of love where the diamond anniversary rings would speak more than words. This is a way of re-emphasizing how much your spouse is loved in spite of the ups and downs that life would probably take you through. In fact diamonds autograph a new beginning in one’s life where you could look forward to some of life’s choicest experiences where love, happiness and goodness would be remarkably bounteous!

By choosing to exchange diamond anniversary rings you could also be marking the celebration of your silver or for that matter even you golden jubilee. Isn’t it worth the pomp and show? Well, long years of togetherness certainly need something special to make its mark! Diamonds studded in different metals only enhances its beauty better. Anything with the diamond is highly appreciated around the world. Ever since Internet has become a great market for buying and selling products right from a hairpin to a car and even diamonds, there are some exclusive online diamond jewelry shops that make no compromise in serving their customers with some of the best designs and spectacularly crafted jewelry. While, on your hunt for genuine diamond jewelers, you’re sure to come across sites where you have the facility of customizing your own diamond rings with just the click of the mouse. Whiteflash is one such store that gives you a variety of shapes, colors of diamonds, setting style and ring design to combine. With this enhancement on the site, one gets to visualize and give life to their fantasy before actually purchasing it online. The glitter in the diamonds personifies the radiance of freshness, happiness and true long lasting love. This is why the diamond is considered incomparable to any other stone in the world.

Across cultures, this precious stone-the diamond has its unanimous popularity owing to the effects it gives the wearer. Did you know that diamonds combat certain astrological imbalances to give you a perfect and smooth going life? Wouldn’t you be giving you marriage a new positive touch of romance and love by purchasing the diamond anniversary rings which is of course an this extravagant buy but definitely a valuable one. This indulgence is worth it as nothing beyond this could aptly befit the occasion of reminding yourself of the lovely years you’ve spent together, growing and learning from each other as you celebrate you wedding anniversary. Three diamonds set in a platinum ring are very significant as they symbolically raise a toast to the past, present and future. Cluster setting, bar setting, bezel setting that makes it look like a watch dial, a claw setting or a channel setting are some of the basic styles in which a diamond is held against the metal. Each style is exclusive to the kind of diamond you would like to set. At times you may want a number of small diamonds clustered together or one big oval or circular shaped diamond held in a claw like pattern where the diamond gives a 3-D effect and makes its outstanding presence on your personality felt. This could reach you to what you have on mind.

Keep the survey on and find out which place can offer you the best diamond anniversary rings. Get your beloved’s ring size and also go to a specialist who can tell you what ring style will best suit her. Remember that the ring is not just made for her finger but is made so exclusively beautiful that it envelops her with an aura of glitter-the best expression of your love!!

Diamond Online Stores to Reach You Better

Nothing more or nothing less can express your strong overwhelming feelings for someone or for that matter crystallizes a strong bonding, better! There is no doubt that you feel convinced that you’ve found your apt gift. But does the tiring survey of what could actually be a standard or genuine diamond scare you. With the world on your fingertips one needn’t go store to store looking for an apt piece of jewelry. Times have changed and so has technology. You can shop on the Internet and find some exclusive places that give you nothing less than 100% quality as far as a diamond is concerned. Well, at the same time don’t be lured by the fake diamond stores who’re out to dupe people. Now doesn’t that sound confusing? How can one actually tell the difference between a genuine store and a fake one? You don’t really have to be an expert for this. It is just about educating yourself and taking some information from sites that search engines like Google rank on the top of your search list.

The advantage one gets by shopping for a diamond online is firstly that you get an access to a variety of diamonds with different cuts and you actually get to visualize each of them for long. At the store one may not have all the varieties and you could miss out on the design that would have probably suited your beloved even better. A choice of design could make you a little more aware of what is actually available.

When you actually compare prices, you will notice that you can get a diamond online at a more competitive rate than a regular store because the operational cost for an Internet seller is comparatively minimized. These diamonds are shipped to you with the warranty and guarantee that a real beautiful diamond comes with.

Imagine you could actually access some of the most beautifully cut diamonds just to compare the brilliance of one with the other. You can be sure you’re making the right choice. At the same time the question of trusting the vendor arises and it is here that you need to educate yourself and take some information on the history of the buyer. There are certain online shop-rating sites, which rate sites for their genuinely. Check for your vendor on that list to be doubly sure. You need to cross check if he is associated with professional organizations like the world diamond council or any equivalent association. This adds a lot of credibility to your online shopping purchase. Another word of caution is the return policy period where one has enough time to check for the authenticity of the diamond. You could always take a second opinion on the diamond purchased online by taking it to a trusted locally reachable jeweler. Once you’ve been assured that you’ve made a wise buy, you sure have no regrets!!

Experience this heavenly feeling of luxurious shopping with some stores like www.Whiteflash.com taking the diamond online! Are you all set to make this little yet long lasting effort towards strengthening one of your most beautiful relationships with a brilliant looking diamond designed into an custom designed diamond ring! With a lot of jewelry stores displaying diamonds online, being cautious to an extent and at the same time being equally explorative will bring you some of the most sought after diamonds at your doorstep. Well that is how the world is today, where something as precious as a diamond can be bought from the comfort of your home without a compromise. Take advantage of the sweepstakes available on the Internet, pamper your extravagant desires and make a safe purchase that keeps you and your beloved absolutely blissful!

Choosing a Diamond Shape

The most traditional shape is the round brilliant diamond. This is the choice of many and the first image that comes to mind when diamonds and diamond rings come to mind.

Only the masterful skill of the diamond cutter can attempt the transformation that the raw diamond crystal goes through. From raw material to incredible and unique.

Round Briliant — This is the shape that has set the traditional standard for all diamond shapes. Over 75% of the diamonds sold today are Round Brilliant. Its 58-facet cut, divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance.

Fancy Cut Diamonds

Oval — This is a symmetrical design which is even and appeals to many small handed women seemingly elongating hands and fingers.

Marquise — This shape is elongated with pointed ends. The smile of the Marquise de Pompadour inspired this shape which was then commissioned by the Sun King, France's Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. It is beautiful as a solitaire or when matched with smaller complimentary diamonds.

Pear — This cut combines the oval and marquise shapes. It is the hybrid shape that looks like a sparkling teardrop. It beautifully compliments the average size hand and fingers. It is gorgeous for pendants and earrings.

Heart — A pear shaped diamond with a cleft on the top. The extraordinary skill of the cutter determines the beauty of this cut. Look for a stone with an even shape and a well-defined outline.

Emerald — This shape is known as a step cut because its concentric broad, flat planes resemble stair steps. A rectangular shape with cut corners. Inclusions and inferior color can be more pronounced in this particular cut. So clarity and color should be looked at carefully and time taken when a choice is made.

Princess — This is a square or rectangular shape with many facets. This is a relatively new cut and often finds its way into solitaire engagement rings. It is attractive with longer fingers. This cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are common.

Trillian — This is the spectacular wedge shape. This was first designed in Amsterdam. This design can vary depending on a particular diamond's natural characteristics and the cutter's personal preferences. The shape may look like a traditional triangle with pointed corners, but more rounded shapes can be found.

Radiant — This is a square or rectangular shape. The elegance of the emerald and the brilliance of the round shape marks this cut. 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are common.

Cushion Cut — Late 19th and early 20th style antique type shape. Remnants of the "Old Mine Cut", a deep cut with large facets.

Asscher Cut — This cut was made popular in the 1920's by the Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. Its art deco feeling was very popular at the time. The company went out of business during the Depression and Asscher cuts disappeared from the market. Recently this shape has come back into style.

Why Shop For A Loose Diamond Online?

The most expensive part of diamond jewelery is the diamond.

In order to purchase the diamond within the size, shape, cut, clarity and price you can afford, it is much easier to select the diamond first and then have it mounted. Evaluating the diamond is easier to do when un-set and sometimes the size, shape and color will determine the right setting. To evaluate a loose diamond, a series of devices are used to evaluate the fire, brilliance and cut. To learn more about these tests or grading tools, please see our Diamond Education section of the site.

Ideal Diamonds are graded to have achieved Ideal specifications for polish symmetry and proportion, as a result they will have tremendous brilliance and scintillation.

Buying a diamond online

Purchasing a stone online can be difficult because you cannot see the stone "live". This is why we provides as much information as possible on each diamond including the evaluation and grading tools used by jewellers and gemologists and extensive analysis and reports not offered by most jewellers. We've also provided an extensive education section to help you understand just how diamonds are graded so you know how to use the information to your best advantage.

More and more consumers are purchasing diamonds online. The ability to access large diamond inventories, the ability to compare relevant specifications and the ability to do so from the comfort of your own home, all contribute to the success of Internet sales.

Diamond Care

Diamonds may be the hardest substance on earth, but they are not indestructible. While they can be cut or polished only by another diamond, a hard blow can cause them to chip. Never wear your diamond jewelery when doing rough work.

Don't store your diamond jewelery next to other jewelery pieces as this can cause scratches. A fabric-lined jewellery case with separate compartments is Ideal. You can also individually wrap jewellery in soft tissue paper or use jewellery pouches for each piece.

Regularly inspect your diamond jewellery to make sure the setting is secure. Promptly bring it to a professional jeweler if you notice any signs of damage or loosening of the prongs. It's a good idea to have your diamond jewelery examined at least once a year by a professional jeweler. In addition to performing any necessary repair work, your jeweler can expertly clean your jewellery.

Everyday exposure to creams, skin oils, hairspray, household chemicals and other substances can cause buildup that will dull your diamond's brilliance and sparkle. Use a solution of warm water mixed with a few drop of ammonia in which to soak your diamond jewellery. Gentle scrubbing with an old, soft-bristled toothbrush is useful for more extensive cleaning. Rinse and dry with a clean soft cloth.

The Basics of Keeping Your Diamond Clean

So how can you keep your diamond looking its very best? Here are some tips on diamond care:

Handle your diamond sparingly, as your fingers provide enough oil from your skin to alter the way your diamond looks.
Clean your diamond regularly. A simple plan to keep your diamond jewellery always looking beautiful is to soak the diamond in an ammonia-based household cleaner (such as window cleaner) overnight, once or twice weekly. In the morning, remove the diamond from the cleaner and brush it with a soft, clean toothbrush to remove any leftover dirt. Take extra care to brush the back of the diamond as this will be the area that has collected the most oil and dirt.
Be aware that fragile settings and estate jewellery won't take kindly to being scrubbed with a toothbrush, so use a soft touch. Then, just rinse the diamond with water and wipe with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Don't use harmful solutions. Chlorine or abrasives should never be used when cleaning diamonds, especially those set in jewellery. These erode some of the metals often used in diamond settings, and may loosen prongs, or even dissolve the metal completely.

Sometimes an ultrasonic cleaner is necessary to remove encrusted dirt on diamonds. By sending high frequency sound waves through a detergent solution, ultrasonic cleaners cause vibrating fluid to remove accumulated dirt and grime. However, they can also shake loose stones from their mounting, so this method shouldn't be used on fragile settings, and is best undertaken by a professional jeweler.

Tips for General Care

Even though you may wear your diamond engagement ring 24 hours a day, you should still give thought to its care.

Don't wear it when you're doing rough work. Even though a diamond is durable, it can be chipped by a hard blow.
Don't let your diamond come in contact with a chlorine bleach when you're doing household chores. It can damage and discolor the mounting.
Do see your jeweller at least once a year and have him check your ring and other precious pieces for loose prongs and wear of mountings. He'll usually give them a professional "shine-up" too.

Regular cleaning will keep your diamond jewellery in gleaming condition and ready to sparkle on that special occasion.

Putting Diamonds Away

When you're not wearing diamonds and precious jewellery, they still require attention. Keep your precious pieces in a fabric-lined jewel case, or a box with compartments or dividers.
lf you prefer to use ordinary boxes, wrap each piece individually in tissue paper.
Don't jumble your diamond pieces in a drawer or jewellery case, because diamonds can scratch other jewellery-and can even scratch each other.
Don't leave your ring on the rim of a sink when you remove it to wash your hands. It can easily slip down the drain.

How To Buy A Custom Engagement Ring

Mon, 16 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Customized Engagement Rings

As couples become choosy with the rings the use to represent the love they have for a relationship, soon-to-be-brides and grooms are looking into customized engagement rings rather than selecting right off the shelves. Right now, a lot of ways are infused to customize engagement rings. Choices range from simple design to extraordinarily elaborate ones.

An Overview of Customized Engagement Rings

Customized rings are made for a certain person rather than duplicated and mass-produced for everybody else to buy. To make a regular engagement ring customized, some couples buy off the rack and just add enhancers, engravings, and other important details to the ring. It is also possible to create custom rings from a regular base. All you do is to add the stone of your choice to the setting. Building an engagement ring from scratch is another option as well.

However, asking a designer to create you a ring is not that easy. It is also important that you learn about the different metals, setting options, carat, color, clarity, and cut of the diamond before gearing up for a customized ring. Although you are not the designer, you have to know how to bring out the beauty f the loose stone or diamond you have selected. The same goes true with different gems. Only after understanding your choice of gems and jewelry you can create a breath-taking custom engagement ring.

How to Customize Engagement Rings

Creating unique engagment rings is an easy possibility these days. Using the principles of simple substitution or full-scale design, couples can create the perfect engagement ring that matches their personalities as well as the intimate relationship they both share.

Gemstones

Selecting your own gemstone for use with your ring is the most common practice of creating customized engagement rings. Some choose their birthstones to be the main element of the ring due to its sentimental value. The ring with bearing the birthstone of the month representing the couple's first kiss, first date, or their upcoming wedding is getting popular as well. Unique gemstones like turquoise and mystic topaz could represent individuality. On the other hand, diamonds of fancy colors are a good way of showing exclusivity. You can use black, pink, yellow, and blue diamonds for your rings to combine the beauty of diamonds with fancy hues.

Metals

When it comes to the metal band, yellow gold still is the most popular choice. However, there are couples that select either white gold or platinum for better effects on the gemstone. To create a totally customized ring, choose less used metals like titanium and silver.

Engravings

Engraving, by far, is the least expensive and most common method to customize a ring. You can simply engrave your initials or a special date on the ring. You can also add something like a personal quote or sentiment to it. Engravings are commonly done on the interior part of the ring. It is usually in script form but block letters would do as well. You can also request some engraving work on the ring's exterior if you so desire.

Sets

There are more and more couples that want to create custom rings so that it would match their wedding rings later on. Men's Rings and women's rings can also be created in a custom set so that they would complement each other perfectly.

Anniversary Rings

In this age of rising divorce rates, any anniversary is cause for celebration, and many men choose to celebrate by presenting their wives with anniversary rings. While they are similar to engagement rings, these tokens of commitment actually have many unique characteristics that make them treasured symbols of the couple’s relationship.

What are Anniversary Rings?

Simply put, any ring that is given on an anniversary qualifies as an anniversary ring. The jewelry industry, however, has specific design guidelines for these rings, also called diamond anniversary bands, a fact that couples should be aware of when shopping for the perfect ring.

Styles

Anniversary rings come in a wide range of designs, though the most common style is to have a row of diamonds or other gems across the top of the ring, typically in a simple setting to complement the original engagement ring or bridal set. For a more elegant motif, many couples choose eternity rings, where the stones circle the entire finger, though they are naturally more expensive. Three-stone rings are another popular choice.

Stones

The most popular anniversary stones are diamonds because they are reminiscent of the engagement ring or diamond wedding rings and create a lovely complimentary piece of jewelry. Couples should not feel limited, however, and they can choose any appealing gem. A popular choice is to incorporate the birthstones of significant months, such as the wedding month, the couple’s birthdays, or children’s birthdays.

The stones are usually uniformly sized so as not to be confused with engagement rings. Typically, between three and five stones may be used, depending on the ring’s size and design. Furthermore, the stones should be positioned so that the ring can be worn with other jewelry, including the wedding ring or set. Round, princess, and emerald are the most popular shapes for stones in anniversary bands.

Metals

Anniversary rings can be found in most types of metal, including gold, white gold, platinum, and titanium. For continuity in design, most couples choose anniversary bands that match the type of metal and karat value of their wedding rings, but if the ring is to be worn separately, there are no limitations.

For Which Anniversary?

There is no specified anniversary that dictates now is the time for an anniversary ring. Because of the expense of a multi-stone ring, however, most couples present the ring only for significant anniversaries, such as the tenth, twentieth, twenty-fifth, or fiftieth. Later anniversaries, in fact, often recommend gems as gifts, making a new ring the logical choice to commemorate the momentous occasion. To be less predictable, some couples choose to present the ring as a commemoration of the date they got engaged, or perhaps the birth of a child or overcoming some obstacle in their marriage. Depending on the style of the original engagement ring, many couples may even take the opportunity to upgrade to a more elaborate ring than was initially given.

Wearing Anniversary Rings

How a woman wears an anniversary ring depends on her personal jewelry preferences as well as her lifestyle. Just as with any fine jewelry, the ring should be meticulously cared for to preserve its appearance and value. The ring should not be worn during housecleaning chores or while performing harsh activities that could result in scratches, nicks, or other accidental damage.

Many women choose to wear anniversary bands along with their wedding sets on their left hand. If the anniversary band is sufficiently more elaborate than the set, however, it may look more balanced to wear it on the right hand. Some women even choose to replace the wedding set altogether, particularly if it is very old, no longer suits their stylistic preferences, or if they plan to use the original set as an heirloom for their children.

Anniversary rings are an elegant way to commemorate a significant anniversary or other event in a couple’s marriage. While they do not typically have as many style variations as engagement rings or the more contemporary Right Hand Rings, they are sophisticated rings in their own right, and the sparkle they bring to a woman’s finger is the same sparkle they celebrate in the couple’s marriage.

Checklist for Choosing a Diamond Engagement Ring

Every groom-to-be needs a checklist for choosing a diamond engagement ring. Searching for the perfect engagement ring is an intimidating task, even if your fiancé has already accepted your proposal. This is one of the most important purchases you will make, as well as one of the most expensive, and you need to keep several issues in mind when making your decision. Everyone’s checklist is different, but these basic concerns will insure that you do not leave out any major considerations.

First, determine exactly how much you can spend on an engagement ring. Bear in mind that you will most likely be paying for part or all of the wedding and honeymoon costs, as well as starting a new life together, and it isn’t wise to go substantially in debt for the ring before other expenses are met. Budgeting for an Engagement Ringis a careful process and you should take plenty of time to ascertain your spending limit.

Educate Yourself

Before setting foot inside a jewelry store, research the basics of diamonds and engagement rings. Knowing the terminology, such as the four Cs of diamond quality, as well as the basic differences between settings, shapes, and types of engagement rings will keep your search efficient without ignoring unique options.

Choose a Jeweler

After you have been properly educated, it is time for the next step in your checklist for choosing a diamond engagement ring: choosing a jeweler. It is important that you find a reputable, trustworthy jeweler. You can ask for recommendations from friends and relatives, or start with a local jeweler with a long history. Mall stores are generally reputable but have limitations, while independent jewelry stores also have risks, especially if you may be relocating. When in doubt, ask to see the jeweler’s certification and other credentials.

Choose a Metal

Most engagement rings are platinum, yellow gold, or white gold.

Platinum

Platinumis the strongest metal and is considered rarer than gold. While it doesn't wear, is resistant to damage, and won't tarnish, it can be difficult to repair if it is damaged. Platinum is also significantly more expensive than gold.

Yellow Gold

Yellow gold is the most common and traditional metal for both wedding and engagement rings. 24-karat gold is pure gold, while 18-karat is 1/4 alloy. The higher the purity, the softer and more flexible the metal, making it more prone to damage. Most engagement and wedding rings are either 14- or 18-karat gold. Gold Engagement Ringseventually show wear such as nicks and scratches, but are easily repaired.

White Gold

White gold is measured by the same standards as yellow gold, but is treated to retain a white, silver-like finish. This finish eventually wears off and must be periodically reapplied. White gold is an excellent choice for a unique ring that will match any other jewelry.

Choose a Setting

Selecting a setting can be one of the most confusing parts of the checklist for choosing a diamond engagement ring. There are many different Engagement Ring Settings. Common settings include solitaires and bridal sets, while channel settings, three-stone rings, and other designs are becoming increasingly popular.

Solitaires

Diamond Solitaire Engagement Ringsare single, elegant diamonds that may come in a variety of shapes (heart, marquise, round, pear, oval, emerald, etc.), settings (channel, bezel, flush, prong, tiffany, etc.), and sizes. If you haven't already determined what your sweetheart likes, you might want to take her window shopping to get a general idea. If you would like for the ring to be a surprise, however, you may want to enlist the help of a close friend or relative.

Accent Stone Settings

Accent stone or side stone settings include both a larger center stone as well as multiple small stones that embellish the engagement ring band. Many accent stones are set in channels to protect them from damage. Some people prefer a combination of round stones and baguettes (rectangles), round stones only, or trilliums (triangles).

Three-Stone Settings

Three Stone Engagement Ringsare considered nostalgic, with each of the diamonds representing the past, present, and future. The stones are set in a straight line without additional accent stones. Many people prefer to build their own engagement ring by choosing each of the three diamonds.

Bridal Sets

You can purchase engagement rings with matching wedding bands. The bands can be solid gold with a matching solitaire engagement ring, or they might have side stone settings in both the wedding band and the engagement ring, with the engagement ring also featuring a prominent solitaire. For many of these Bridal Set Engagement Rings, the wedding band cannot be worn without the engagement ring and the two are frequently soldered together before the wedding.

Ask for an Appraisal and Certificate

Your diamond should be issued an appraisal of its value. You should also ask your jewelerif the diamond has been treated with any fillers or other laboratory enhancements. If it hasn't, he should issue you a certificate of authenticity. This paperwork is essential if you choose to have your ring insured.

Warranty

You also need to inquire about the warranty of your diamond. Some jewelers will continue to warranty the ring if you visit regularly for them to clean and check the setting of the ring. These basic maintenance tasks guarantee that your ring will remain as brilliant on your fiftieth anniversary as it was on your wedding day.

No matter which type of engagement ring you ultimately buy, by following certain tasks and approaching the purchase in an educated fashion, you will be pleased with an investment that will grow in value just as your love continues to grow throughout your marriage.

About Us

Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA™) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Why you should Insure you Engagement Ring

Fri, 13 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

No one can predict the accidents that might befall an engagement ring. Simple housecleaning chores could result in damage to the band or setting, and an innocent sporting activity could loosen a stone – small defects you may not notice until it is too late, no matter how well you care for your engagement ring.

Damage

Insurance policies may cover damage to your engagement ring such as a warped band, twisted setting, or missing stone. Despite the best care, accidents can happen: a car accident can easily damage the jewelry you are wearing, and a medical emergency may require your ring to be cut away. Properly insured, these types of damage are not a hardship. Your insurance policy may have a deductible that requires you to pay an initial fee, but more extensive damage would be covered by the policy.

Loss

The cliché lost engagement ring is always down the drain: the bathtub, the kitchen sink, or the shower. Engagement rings can become lost in other ways, however. While swimming in a lake, river, or ocean, your fingers shrink and your ring could slip off unnoticed. You could remove the ring in a hotel room while traveling and forget to put it back on in the rush of leaving in the morning. Unnoticed on the carpeting, your ring could fall victim to a vacuum cleaner. A pet could be attracted by the glittering morsel, or it could accidentally end up in the trash. In any case, if your ring is lost, a comprehensive insurance policy can help replace it.

Theft

Pawn shops are well stocked with engagement rings, and thieves can easily sell off a valuable piece of jewelry long before they are discovered. Given the sentimental nature and emotional upheaval involved in selling an engagement ring, many pawn shops will not ask too many questions when a customer has one to part with. If your ring is stolen and the police are unable to recover it, proper insurance policies can help recoup the financial loss.

Types of Engagement Ring Insurance

There are several different types of engagement ring insurance policies. Each one varies in what it will pay depending on the circumstances of the claim, and different policies have different maintenance costs. Before purchasing engagement ring insurance, always investigate the different options and what their reimbursement procedures are.

Homeowner Policies

Many home insurance policies will allow you to add value for expensive household items, including jewelry. While this will help protect your engagement ring against theft or home-related damage such as a fire or tornado, these large-scale policies typically do not cover damage related to household chores or other incidents, nor will they cover damage outside the home.

Replacement Policies

A replacement policy is placed specifically on the jewelry in question and will help refund the cost of replacing the ring under the terms of the agreement. You would be able to replace the ring with an identical new piece in terms of diamond size, setting, and metal – all at current market values. Therefore, if your original ring would be more expensive today, your replacement policy will pay the increased cost of the identical ring. Of course, if your ring is less valuable than when it was purchased, you cannot claim the additional investment.

Actual Value Policies

An actual value insurance policy replaces the cash value of your engagement ring minus the depreciation from its use. For example, if you have a $500 engagement ring but it is five years old, the cost of those five years would be deducted from the value of the ring because of daily wear and use. Basically, you would be paid a used ring price if you needed to claim replacement on this type of policy. Actual value policies are the least expensive insurance option and are the most common choice.

Valued At Policies

Valued at policies are the rarest and most difficult types of insurance policies to find. You can set the value of your ring – including costs for sentimental value, heirloom consideration, or “time and trouble” clauses for customized jewelry – and if it is lost or stolen, the insurance policy pays the amount you have set, even if it is higher than the appraised value of the ring. Naturally, these are the most expensive types of engagement ring insurance policies.

Where to Purchase Engagement Ring Insurance

Not all insurance companies offer policies for jewelry. A reputable jeweler will be able to recommend several insurance options. In order to properly insure your ring, always provide the appropriate documents to the insurer: original purchase receipts, Jewelry Lab Certificates and Appraisals, records of maintenance work such as resizing or repairs, and information about any treatments the ring has received that affect its value.

An engagement ring is both a financial and an emotional investment and that is why you should insure your engagement ring. By purchasing insurance for your engagement ring you may not be able to prevent damage, theft, or loss, but you can guarantee that at least a portion of your investment is protected.

Celebrity Engagement Rings

Fri, 13 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

From necklaces and bracelets to earrings and tiaras, society is fascinated with celebrity jewelry and no pieces are more entrancing celebrity engagement rings. Whether it’s a glitter on a princess’s finger or a bauble gleaming on an actress’s left hand, celebrity engagement rings not only symbolize a loving commitment but also offer fans an intimate detail about their favorite stars. An engagement ring, after all, is not a Hollywood prop, but an intimate expression of the heart.

Whether it’s a glitter on a princess’s finger or a bauble gleaming on an actress’s left hand, celebrity engagement rings not only symbolize a loving commitment but also offer fans an intimate detail about their favorite stars. An engagement ring, after all, is not a Hollywood prop, but an intimate expression of the heart.

From antique rings to customized creations, there is as much variation among celebrity engagement rings as there is between brides. One of the most common attributes of a celebrity ring, however, is the exceptional carat size: these larger than life personalities often sport larger than life engagement rings.

Elizabeth Taylor, when engaged to her third husband, Michael Todd, wore a nearly 30-carat emerald cut diamond.
Lady Diana Spencer wore an 18-carat deep blue oval sapphire circled by fourteen diamonds when she promised to become Princess Diana.
Catherine Zeta-Jones’ nuptial promise to Michael Douglas was sealed with a 10-carat antique horizontal set marquise diamond.
Despite the eventual cancellation, Jennifer Lopez’s finger sparkled with a 6-carat radiant shaped pink diamond while she was engaged to Ben Affleck, a stone reported to cost more than $3 million.
Paris Hilton’s short-lived engagement was highlighted by the 24-carat emerald cut diamond ring.
Donald Trump presented his bride-to-be Melanie Knauss with an overwhelming 12-carat emerald cut engagement ring reported to cost a cool $1 million.

Not all celebrities prefer weighty rings, however. Many have chosen elaborate styles and settings over larger stones.

Queen Elizabeth’s classic 3-carat diamond is set in platinum with five smaller stones.
After Marilyn Monroe eloped with Joe DiMaggio, he presented her with a platinum eternity band set with thirty-six small baguette diamonds.
Jackie Kennedy was given a modest 3-carat emerald set with nearly three additional carats of diamond accents when she accepted John F. Kennedy’s proposal.
Jessica Simpson’s 4-carat engagement ring was an unusual pear-shape set in platinum with two side stones.
Katie Holmes’ 5-carat ring from Tom Cruise is a classic oval shape in a pave setting.
Reese Witherspoon’s 4.5 carat Asscher cut engagement ring is set in a stunning 1920s art deco style.
Camilla Parker Bowles wed Prince Charles with an emerald ring accented by baguettes on each side, set delicately in platinum with an art deco style.
Star Jones opted for a stunning princess cut diamond as a prelude to her lavish million-dollar wedding.
Madonna’s 5-carat total weight ring is a three stone design with bezel settings.

Finding Your Own Celebrity Ring

For many brides-to-be, celebrity engagement rings not only emphasize romantic love, but also the happily-ever-after that stars exemplify. Replica engagement rings are easy to find, but because most couples do not have the deep pockets of royalty or celebrities (even Jennifer Aniston’s modest ring cost a whopping $500,000), a couple must often choose which aspect of a celebrity engagement ring to emulate.

Size

If the allure of a celebrity engagement ring is based on size, most couples cannot hope to compete. However, it is possible to replicate a celebrity ring’s size with lower-quality imitation diamonds or gemstones. While the ring may not have the same sparkle, it will have a significantly lower price tag and be more affordable without a Hollywood paycheck or royal stipend. Cubic Zarconia is a popular choice for replicating exorbitant rings because it is relatively affordable yet still a gorgeous choice.

Another way to replicate a ring’s size while keeping it in reach of non-celebrity brides is to adjust the settingor styling of the ring to mimic the appearance of the original. For example, in order to afford a larger center stone, a replica ring may use a different quality metal such as white goldinstead of the more expensive platinum, or there may be a fewer number of baguettes or accent stones. Setting such as a ballerina or cluster arrangement can also simulate a larger stone while using less expensive stones as a substitute.

Authenticity

For an authentic-looking celebrity replica ring, the easiest sacrifice to make is to proportionally lower the size of the entire ring. For example, rather than using an 18-carat center stone, it would be possible to make a lovely replica of Princess Diana’s engagement ring with a smaller sapphire surrounded by smaller diamonds. While the replica is not identical, any true celebrity fan would instantly recognize the design.

Fake Rings

For a ring with the proper size and exact appearance of a celebrity ring, the only recourse for many people is to purchase an entirely fake ring without true gemstones, possibly without gold or another precious metal. For many women this is an unacceptable choice for an engagement ring, but it can be a unique way for a man to propose: choosing a replica ring of his beloved’s favorite celebrity. Never try to pass off a fake ring as anything other than a nostalgic token, however. Allow the bride to choose her own unique engagement ring while cherishing the thought and charm that led to a fake celebrity ring proposal in the first place.

Cost

While the genuine celebrity rings may cost well more than two-months’ (or two decades’) salary for typical couples, imitation rings are far more affordable. A good quality celebrity-inspired ring may cost up to $1,000 while still using precious metals and lovely gems, while the lower end of the price bracket includes fake rings that sell for less than $100. Which option a couple chooses should be based on their budget, the intent of the ring(actual engagement ring or quirky substitute), and the overall quality of the piece.

Celebrity pieces vary in size, design, style, and price, usually far outside the budget of most couples. With careful consideration of size, authenticity, and quality, however, it is possible to create convincing and nostalgic replicas of celebrity rings. No matter what engagement ring is presented, however, the ultimate goal is to remind the woman that she is undoubtedly the star of the show.

"American Cut - The First 100 Years," by Al Gilbertson, G.G.

Many of us know Al Gilbertson as an esteemed cutter, gemologist and innovator. Add "mythbuster" to his titles. Mr. Gilbertson has produced a gem of a book, sure to be a page-turner for enthusiasts of "ideal" diamond cutting origins.

"American Cut - The First 100 Years" documents important changes between 1850 and 1960. The book focuses on the evolution of cut in the United States and gives historical legs to some of our truncated trade myths. There is special focus on American production prior to Marcel Tolkowsky's 1919 work "Diamond Design," which is often credited for bringing groundbreaking new "ideal" proportions to the trade. Readers may be surprised to learn that Tolkowsky did not use the term ideal, nor was he the first to discuss ray-tracing. In fact, when he wrote his book in London, diamonds of the same essential angles had been coming out of Boston and New York for decades. And while his well-known model gave precise theoretical proportions he thought optimal, the tools of his day were not actually capable of measuring in the half or three-quarter degree increments he put forward. Tolkowsky acknowledged that "millions of pounds of well-cut diamonds" in the same narrow (by the standards of the day) range of proportions had already been cut in his family's factory.

So why is Tolkowsky said to have been the first to ray-trace a diamond (myth) provide this range of proportions (myth) and write a doctoral thesis about them (myth)? As Mr. Gilbertson notes, "the origins and the reasons for how the standard came about sometimes become hazy, even lost, and lack of knowledge or understanding give credence to myths." Gilbertson has spent the past 30 years researching written and living sources - the book has an astounding bibliography of nearly 300 entries - to bring us a fascinating and thorough overview of the evolution of American diamond cutting.

The first chapter is a historical prelude with emphasis on cutting details. Gilbertson documents measuring devices and proportions recommendations that appeared as early as 1750, discussing important figures like David Jeffries, who wrote a treatise, developed tools and encouraged certain proportions, rather than acquiring the most weight possible by following the rough's outline. Jeffries was among the first to say a diamond should be valued based on its spread rather than how much it weighed. His views were not popular.

The book's most compelling saga involves Henry Morse, an artist and diamantaire from Boston who battled for beauty over preservation of carat weight in the 1860s. Morse could not stand the imprecision of diamond cutting. He traveled overseas to see how things were done, then set up his own cutting works. His insistence on new approaches infuriated his first workers, who had Dutch backgrounds, and he battled them until he was able to teach American workers - including the first female diamond cutters - to replace the Dutch. Morse's insistence on symmetry and angles eventually resulted in the invention of the first bruting machine and angle gauge (the book contains many drawings and photos). He made a name for himself by speaking out against old methods of cutting. As demand for his diamonds grew his cutting style became known as "American Cut" and gained attention. Gilbertson reports that Isaac Herman was one of the first to follow this style. In 1871 Herman observed Morse's cutting and put together his own team in New York. Others followed suit, including Tiffany & Co, one of Morse's clients, who continued to buy from him even as they induced his workers to come work for them. In 1891 the Scientific American did a story on Tiffany & Co. and "Scientific Cutting" became the buzz. As these terms "American Cut" and "Scientific Cut" gained momentum, advertisements for square diamonds were replaced by round. The Europeans resisted the new style of cutting because the corners and so much of the top was lost in the process, but their cushion cuts were becoming blasé. Some Antwerp firms began cutting based on Morse, who was being highly praised by George Kunz, the well-traveled and influential VP of Tiffany & Company.

In 1899 the rotary saw was developed, allowing two diamonds to be produced from one piece of octahedron. This made the American cutting style even more plausible. Between 1885 and 1902 the number of workers in US cutting factories had grown over 300 percent (though still insignificant compared to the number in Europe). In 1903 a New York jeweler named Wallis Cattelle was one of the first to back up the optical benefits of the American Cuts with ray-tracing, reinforcing the scientific superiority and noting that European cutters were gradually having to conform to it more and more. Merchandisers leaned on the national pride for "American Supremacy," promoting "American Cut" and "Scientific Cut." Huge ads featuring eagles, the statue of liberty, baseball diamonds, etc., fanned patriotic flames. The words "brilliancy" and "fire," some of which included rudimentary ray-tracing diagrams, were related to the cutting of the stone (these ads are reproduced in Gilbertson's book, which also includes a pull-out display poster produced by J.R. Wood & Sons in 1915).

As we know, history has a way of repeating itself. Just as our trade blurs the lines of "ideal" now, yesterday's sellers grabbed onto popular buzzwords and abused them. The inability to clearly measure proportions clouded the issue and led to rampant mis-advertising. This reached its height in 1915-1918. The term "American Cut" was diluted by shops setting up in America but not actually cutting to the range Morse and his followers established. Other ad campaigns trumped "scientific" with "best proportions," "perfect cut," "top blue white," and "very fine quality" diamonds offered "below wholesale" (sound familiar?); nowhere near the quality of true American Cut specimens.

The JCK rose to battle this misrepresentation. They organized a movement to remove ads with the word "perfect" and ran a campaign of articles to educate jewelers. They called on Dr. Herbert Whitlock to assist. Whitlock was curator of Minerals and Gems at the New York State Museum (eventually the Smithsonian collection) and provided ray-tracing examples of different cuts. He was the first gemological authority to name the new style "American Cut" in writing. Frank Wade, who was to become a member of GIA's Student Advisory Board and one of the academic leaders Robert Shipley hired to advance the gemology movement, was also a leader in the crusade. From 1915-1930 Wade pioneered a series of scientific articles that distinguished him in the trade. Marcel Tolkowky's 1919 book was timed perfectly for his purposes. Wade equated the "American Cut" with Tolkowsky's calculations and was one of the first influential people to call his measurements "ideal." By the 1930s the efforts of Wade and Shipley gave Tolkowsky's book great prominence in the minds of many - and it did have an influence on American cutting: Where Morse's diamonds had tables near 40% Wade thought Tolkowsky was right and advocated the "ideal" 53 and 54% tables he espoused. Tolkowsky was also the first to write that lower halves needed to have a specific relationship to the rest of the diamond.

As Robert Shipley developed GIA's coursework in the 1930s he included a survey of cutting styles. By this time the Germans were involved in cutting and, like others in Europe, they did not like the loss of weight on the crown. Shipley's work, centered on Tolkowksy, was in large part defending against the German concepts. In 1938 the FTC banned use of the word "perfect.” “Scientific cut" fell away because it represented proportions with smaller tables, no longer in use. The terms "ideal" and "American Cut" continued As GIA's influence grew in the 1930s and 40s an ever-increasing number of jewelers began to recognize the importance of cut quality. Richard Liddicoat worked on cut at the same time he was developing the color and clarity grading system. He introduced a proportions-scope and a grading system using terms like "American Cut" which had deductions for proportions outside a certain range. In fact, the present day Rapaport list is based on the style of the chart Liddicoat developed for color, clarity and cut. In 1953 the GIA diamond grading courses were introduced. With a GIA education a jeweler could make intelligent decisions about buying so these courses caught on like wildfire. Graduates were provided tools to measure cut but often needed help with color and clarity; which were more subjective. This is where the first GIA grading reports came from. Diamonds sent in were graded for color and clarity but not cut, since the students had those tools already.

In the epilogue Mr. Gilbertson writes, "Today when diamonds can be accurately measured to a much higher degree of precision, we find that there is a relatively wide range of appealing proportions/diamonds_info.Diamond grading reports that analyze cut merely help the consumer understand the overall grades and appearances that are preferred. We should look at the diamond itself to see if its appearance is what we personally deem the most pleasing to our eyes, making it our own ideal."

Mr. Gilbertson's book spans a dynamic period of time in diamond cutting. He has done a superlative job of bringing history to life in an informative and entertaining fashion. His research materials, including 2500 of Henry Morse's business letters, make for a colorful account and often permit the reader to experience the feelings and passion of his subjects through firsthand quotes. Hundreds of drawings, diagrams and photos make the book user-friendly for all readers. "American Cut - The First 100 Years" will soon be appearing in university libraries across the country, and on countless desktops of diamond professionals and enthusiasts.

Sincere thanks to the Gemological Institute of America, the foremost leader in gemological education, and especially to Al for his passion and commitment.

- John Pollard

View an eight-minute synopsis of the book by Inside GIA TV, on YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kc79FY0Obg

For purchasing information, watch this link

(coming to the public in November 2007)

http://www.gia.edu/newsroom/334/gia_publications.cfm

An Overview Of Common Alloys Used In Jewelry

Fine jewelry settings are created from precious metals. This article addresses some important information about gold, white gold, rhodium plating and nickel allergies, as well as covering fine distinctions between common platinum alloys. Many alloys exist and new ones are constantly being developed. Here is an overview of some of the most common encountered in the crafting of jewelry.

1. GOLD

Gold is popular because it can be worked into almost any shape. Yellow gold jewelry of 18K and above does not tarnish and rarely causes problems for people with skin irritations. White Gold is popular for its appearance and price point compared to platinum alloys.

Technically there is no such thing as 'White Gold.' Gold can be lightened by combining it with light metals but we plate all WG pieces with Rhodium; a member of the platinum family and the whitest precious metal after silver. This rhodium plating creates a hard skin with good resistance. Over time plating may wear through. Re-plating is a fairly simple process, depending on the condition of the piece. In most cases this will be done approximately as often as a platinum ring requires re-polishing, although a fine plating job may last longer than a polish on platinum due to the superior hardness of rhodium.

COMMON GOLD ALLOYS

24K gold (100% pure gold) does not work well for jewelry because it is too soft. A more durable option is 18K gold, which is 75% pure gold. It has the richness of 24K gold where some of the less pure alloys may not.

Identification

18K gold is the most recognized global standard and will be marked '18K' in the USA and '750' in Europe.

1. 18K Yellow Gold

75% Gold, alloyed with Copper, Silver, Zinc and/or Cobalt
Does not require plating
+ Very workable
+ Rarely causes skin irritation
- Will wear down, but over a long period of time with heavy wear

2. 18K White Gold (nickel white gold)

75% Gold, alloyed with Copper, Nickel, Zinc and/or Palladium
Requires rhodium plating and re-plating over time, depending on wear
+ Less workable, less ductile
- Causes skin irritation for people with nickel allergies
- Will wear down over a long period of time

3. 18K Palladium White Gold

75% Gold, 25% Palladium
Requires rhodium plating and re-plating over time, depending on wear
+ Very workable
+ Rarely, if ever, causes skin irritation
- Will wear down over a long period of time
- More expensive than 18K nickel WG

Comparison Photos

18K yellow gold
18K white gold, rhodium plated
18K palladium white gold, not plated

2. PLATINUM

Platinum is a versatile, eternal metal. It does not fade or tarnish and is ideal for those with sensitive skin because it is hypoallergenic. It is the safest, most suitable and versatile metal for durably setting any kind of gemstone.

Platinum's density gives it a unique quality. When platinum scratches none of the volume is lost, the metal is merely displaced as ridges are raised on the edge of the scratch. As platinum is worn it develops a patina-like appearance. It can be polished again and again because this is just moving the metal around, not wearing it down. Other precious metals lose material over time. Gold prongs wear down and rings can get thinner with wear. Platinum prongs bend but rarely break and do not wear down.

COMMON PLATINUM ALLOYS

There are 4 platinum alloys commonly used in the USA.

Pt900/Ir = 900 parts platinum, 100 parts Iridium
Pt950/Ir = 950 parts platinum, 50 parts Iridium
Pt950/Ru = 950 parts platinum, 50 parts Ruthenium
Pt950/Co = 950 parts platinum, 50 parts Cobalt

A Common Misunderstanding

When people hear Pt950 described as 95% platinum they assume that means 95% by volume. It doesn't. The percentage is by weight. Platinum is the heaviest of these metals. Therefore, it will require more than 5% by volume of a lighter metal to match platinum by 5% in weight. This misunderstanding is merely academic information that may be of interest to some people.

Atomic Weights

Platinum: 195.078
Iridium: 192.217
Ruthenium: 101.070
Cobalt: 058.933

Identification

95% platinum is the world standard, marked 950 plat in country of origin
90% platinum is a popular and traditional USA standard, marked 900Pt
50%-90% platinum may be marked Plat in other countries, but only 950 platinum can be marked Plat in the USA

Alloy Comparisons

Pt900/Ir (900 parts platinum, 100 parts Iridium) is a good hard alloy. A great compromise between relative hardness for easier polish it has excellent white color and is still quite malleable. It is excellent for both casting and handmade work. Less pressure is required to set gemstones than with harder alloys. It is resistant to scratching & bending and over time is very resistant to signs of wear.

Pt950/Ir (950 parts platinum, 50 parts Iridium) is a good medium-hard alloy which is malleable and well-suited for bench work. Good for casting and excellent for handmade pieces, it is the best choice for soft or fragile gem setting. The greater softness requires a longer polishing process. It is less scratch and bend resistant than harder alloys but holds a stone better if an impact occurs; like a shock absorber. Over time it is very resistant to signs of wear.

Pt950/Ru (950 parts platinum, 50 parts Ruthenium) is very hard. It has the highest melting temperature of all platinum alloys and is difficult to cast. Darker gray in color than platinum-iridium, it is less malleable, hard to solder and weld and hard to burnish. Bench workers find it tough on burs, files and drills. Some setters recommend it for diamonds only, since more pressure must be imposed on gemstones during the setting process. It is extremely scratch & bend-resistant and extremely resistant to signs of wear over time.

Pt950/Co (950 parts platinum, 50 parts Cobalt) is moderately hard. With the lowest flow point of these alloys it is good for even, dense castings of finely detailed pieces or filigree but not for work by hand. This alloy tarnishes when heated so it needs flux and pickling after soldering just like gold, unlike other platinum alloys. Since Cobalt is a ferrous metal, not from the platinum group, its scraps must be kept separate from other platinum scraps. It takes a fast polish but finishes darker gray than iridium. It requires moderate pressure on gemstones during the setting process. Bench workers find it more "gold-like" and easy on the tools. It wears quite well over time.

Platinum/Iridium is the whitest and the softest alloy, excellent for production and setting. It solders and welds better than other platinum alloys. In the USA Pt900/Ir is a popular and traditional standard. The global platinum standard is 95% by weight, so manufacturers with a global clientele use Pt950/Ir.

The Most Important Element

The way the piece was formed, the heat treatments, welding and soldering applied and the skill of the craftsmen involved are all as critical to the final product as the alloy itself. Seasoned craftsmen and smiths may develop a favorite based on personal experience but no platinum alloy is "better" or "worse" than the others. In fact, the most important element is the way the piece is cared for. How the wearer cares for the ring will be more significant to how it holds up over time than any other factor. The skill level of the craftsman is equally important. Whatever alloy is used comes in far behind the first two considerations.

Platinum is used in industry and medicine as well as for fine jewelry applications. In all cases we feel platinum is a wonderful choice for a lifetime of wear.

Comparison Photos

Platinum-iridium
Platinum-ruthenium
Platinum-cobalt

3. HARDNESS AND DURABILITY

In discussions about precious metals people often confuse hardness with strength, but they are not the same.

Hardness = HV

Often referred to as "scratch resistance," hardness is measured using the Vickers Hardness scale. This tests the hardness of a metal by pushing a pointed object into the surface with a specified load and gauging penetration.

Durability = PSI

Tensile strength, or durability is measured in pounds per square inch.

Comparisons

18K Gold = 125 HV…29,000 PSI
Pt900/Ir = 110HV…55,000 PSI
Pt950/Ir = 80HV…40,000 PSI
Pt950/Ru = 130HV…66,000 PSI
Pt950/Co = 135HV…64,000 PSI

Gold is harder than some platinum alloys and will resist scratches better. Platinum is almost twice as durable as gold, is more ductile has much greater longevity. For the body of the piece the differences are not critical. For the prongs they have implications: For instance, white gold prongs will break. Yellow gold prongs will bend more, as will platinum, but platinum prongs are more durable over time.

4. OTHER ALLOYS

The alloys above are most common in our experience, but many other alloys exist.

Colored gold alloys range from 8 to 22K in gold content and can be produced in color shades such as rose and red (greater copper content), green (more silver) and even purple (gold-aluminum).

White gold alloys using chromium and iron instead of nickel have been developed to address the problem of nickel allergies.

Stuller's new X-1 14K white gold alloy has good whiteness and passes the EU Nickel Release tests. It is yet untested for longevity and durability.

950 Palladium is similar to platinum alloys; 95% palladium alloyed with 5% ruthenium by weight. Like platinum alloys it only requires occasional repolish. However, it is not as white as more common Platinum/Iridium alloys and is priced similarly and not many people work in it.

Plat/S+ is another 950 platinum alloy offered by Hoover & Strong (the remaining ingredients are proprietary). Harder than other traditional platinum alloys, it was developed by the late Steven Kretchmer, who introduced tension-set rings in the USA, under the name SK Platinum.

950 PlatOro is 95% platinum and 5% gold by weight. Also from Hoover & Strong, it has high flow characteristics which keep porosity to a minimum. It is ductile, with similar hardness to Pt950/Ru.

New alloys are constantly being developed. As with precious stones, the variety of offerings and options available to the consumer in precious metals and alloys reflects the wide variety of taste among enthusiasts.

Getting Diamond Information

Tue, 03 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

When shopping online there are two possibilities for diamonds you find listed in the Pricescope search or in diamond searches on different vendor websites.

The diamond you have found is owned and stocked by the vendor listing it. In this case that diamond will not be listed by any other vendors.
The diamond you have found is located with a diamond supplier/manufacturer. That single diamond may appear in the lists of many vendors, any of whom may act as a broker for it.

Getting Information

When requesting information on a diamond, the amount of quickly available documents and images may vary, depending on where it is located. If it is stocked by the listing vendor the data will likely be instantly accessible. If it is located with a separate diamond supplier the availability and timeliness can vary:

Scenario 1: The vendor owns the diamond, has it in-house and has all lab reports and photos done and online. Done.

Scenario 2: The vendor owns the diamond, has it in-house and does not provide all online, but will by request. Done.

Scenario 3: A supplier owns the diamond and will provide the vendor with lab report, Sarin and photos by request. Almost done.

Scenario 4: A supplier owns the diamond and will provide the vendor with the lab report and Sarin, but no photos. This could take a little time and may require bringing the diamond in if the customer wants photos (see scenario 5).

Scenario 5: A supplier owns the diamond, and will provide the lab report - but no Sarin and no photos…The vendor is willing to bring the diamond in by request to analyze it and take photos, etc (a charge may apply depending on policies)…This does take time.

Scenario 6: A supplier owns the diamond, and will not provide anything beyond specs…The vendor is willing to bring the diamond in by request to get the lab report, analyze it, take photos, etc (again, a charge may apply)…This could take time and there is more risk that the diamond will not meet exact expectations of the vendor or buyer.

Scenario 7: A supplier owns the diamond but the vendor is a drop-ship only vendor and cannot provide anything further than what the supplier is willing to provide. This is risky to the buyer and the vendor, as the vendor will never see the diamond he/she is selling.

Internet vendors who base their business model on drop-shipping a diamond from a supplier sight-unseen to the purchaser are especially handicapped by suppliers who don’t provide ready documents and photos.

Why don’t all suppliers provide these things?

In the macro, internet sales are still not a significant enough percentage of total sales to drive change yet. It's a twofold problem. Those who encourage suppliers to provide more information are fighting decades of 'how it was done' as well as a fundamental resistance to the movement that is calling for the shift (no matter how sound that decision will ultimately be).

Many long-of-tooth suppliers have traditionally done business with B&M stores who have never had a need for photos, reflectors, etc., and only recently are asking for Sarin reports. The fact that the tried and true retail vendors have operated for a generation or three without these needs, coupled with the air of resistance from influential factions within the trade to internet sales in general, causes a ‘dig in the heels’ mentality.

As internet sales increase some suppliers are coming to understand the need to provide more information digitally to internet vendors, but there are others who still do business without even owning a Sarin machine (much less photos or reflectors). What any given supplier will provide varies depending on how ‘it’s been done’ juxtaposed with current policies. Combine these unknowns with the many different vendor policies of drop-shipping sight unseen versus bringing it in for inspection and you have an alphabet soup of different scenarios.

So for customers: If you’re looking at a diamond from the virtual database, how do you know what is available from the supplier and vendor combo-platter you have chosen? In most cases you don’t. For purchase of a commonly found diamond it may not be worth your time to wait days for information, but if you’re chasing that ideal 2ct E VS with a spot-on 55% table and FL (for your mother Emily Von-Strange’s 55^th birthday at the nightclub) and nothing else will do, it may be worth patience and understanding of the process if that diamond is located with a supplier who moves slowly.

There is no harm in asking if the diamond you are interested in is stocked by the vendor or by a supplier, and how timely your desired information will be. Vendors often will tell you without being asked, and don’t mind answering further questions about the expected time frame. Knowing how fast you may expect to get information, and how much information is possible, will allow you to set appropriate expectations.

Go Green For Spring

For Spring, the season of growth and renewal, there is no better trend to highlight than eco-friendly fashions. For all of you fashionistas - when it comes to “green” design, there are some really amazing eco-friendly designers who have amazing work showing us that going “green” does not have to impact your personal style. In both the fashion and jewelry industries, there has been a progression towards green products with many companies incorporating eco-friendly materials into their collections and environmentally responsible business practices.

For clothing, organic cotton, bamboo, hemp and linen are popular sustainable textiles that are used to help eliminate our “carbon footprint”.

With jewelry you can indulge responsibly by wearing jewelry made with materials like:

· Recycled gold and other repurposed metals

· Conflict-free diamonds and gemstones

· Lab-grown diamonds and gemstones

· Wood

Many of the designers who incorporate these green materials into their collections have also adapted their business structures to a point where everything is made locally and sourced using sustainable businesses.

In addition to some of the amazing designers who are incorporating these elements into their fashion collections, there is also a great movement in the bridal industry towards the use of conflict-free diamonds and recycled gold and platinum. For those of you Brides-to-be, check with your local jewelry store, or with an online vendor about the diamonds used in their designs. They should be able to provide you with information so that you know that your diamond ring was created ethically from harvesting to finish.

For us fashion addicts, the “greening” of the fashion and jewelry industry has enabled us to purchase the things that we love to wear, while leaving as small of a footprint on the environment as possible. I know that I personally love that I can wear my favorite pendant, or ring and know that I am not creating any further harm on the environment. This spring, be sure to check out some eco-friendly jewelry designers – I can assure you that you will not be disappointed by the amazing jewelry that is out on the market!!

Here are some retailers and designers who are ahead of the fashion trends and eco-friendly that I suggest checking out:

· Dreams of Africa Jewelry– Conflict free diamonds are used in the collections and a percentage of sales are donated to the World Centers of Compassion for Children

· Ruff & Cut – Incorporates conflict-free diamonds in their designs where percentage of sales are used to help “Shine on Sierra Leone”

· Prismera Design – Jewelry that is inspired by flora and fauna and crafted from stainless steel made from recycled materials.

· INDIE PEACE – Clothes that use sustainable fabrics, from the materials used down to the recyclable tag

· White Apricot – Fashions made from eco-friendly materials and uses water based clothing dyes

Hearts and Arrows Diamonds and The Basics of Diamond Cutting

You already learned that cut is the most important factor affecting the beauty of a diamond.

The aim of this tutorial is to illustrate what it takes to achieve the ultimate in cutting precision and perfection - super ideal cut Hearts and Arrows diamonds.

The Parts of a Diamond

Before we begin, let us use the following definition: A diamond is a crystal, a prism that reflects light and disperses it. In other words this prism's facets are two way mirrors that:

1. Reflect light or

2. Allow light to pass through them.

The Cutting Process

The rough diamond is prepared, sawed and the stone is brutted (made round). First 4 then 8 main facets are placed on the pavilion and the crown, and then the diamond is given its second cut again to make sure it is as round as possible. (No diamond can be absolutely rounded because the rough material has a hard side and a soft side).

Because of diamond's refractive index, the pavilion (bottom of the diamond that comes to a point) needs to be cut at an exacting angle. If there is some slight deviation from this angle, the diamond begins to leak light and this affects the light return.

The relationship between the crown and pavilion is also very important. We will see this in detail later.

Diagrammatic scheme of how a diamond is cut from the rough to the polished

How the Hearts are Formed

A view of the hearts and arrows forming during the cutting process through the Hearts and Arrows viewer.

1. The main pavilion facets outlined and one heart highlighted in red.

2. The main pavilion facet reflects on the opposite side.

3. It takes 4 facets to make one heart and one arrowhead on the pavilion and an additional 2 upper girdle facets to finish up and square off the tips of the rabbit ears of the heart.

4. This takes a total of 6 different facets. to create 1 Heart,-( 2 main pavilion facets and 2 Lower girdle facets and it is the 2 upper girdle facets that square off the bottom of the heart shape.) See pic.4-A: without upper girdle facets and pic. 4-B: with the upper girdle facets in place. Note the squared off heart shape.

It is the lower girdle facets that are also responsible for separating the arrowhead from the heart. This is because of the difference between the angles of the main pavilion and lower girdle facets. Therefore, if the physical symmetry is out the slightest, the optical symmetry will be affected. We are not referring here to meet point symmetry which is where the facet junctions meet.

The labs grade symmetry according to meet point symmetry. The physical symmetry is made up of X,Y, and Z-axis which is what influences the optical symmetry. The optical symmetry will clearly show the physical symmetry being in or out of perfect harmony.

The lack of optical symmetry will be seen very clearly when viewing the diamond through the Hearts and Arrows viewer. It is easier to camouflage errors in the formation of the arrows, but it is impossible to hide any inconsistencies in the heart pattern. In forming the arrows there are less facets to align so errors are more easily camouflaged, whereas in the hearts there are 6 facets that complete each heart shape, and the slightest deviation is easily noticed.

Arrow Effect in Diamonds

As we have learned, the main pavilion facets are responsible for the formation of the hearts and now you will see its effect in causing the arrows pattern.

The shaft of the arrow is formed when one main pavilion facet reflects on the opposite main pavilion facet. The main crown facet allows a different view of the reflected main pavilion facet thereby forming the arrowhead.

Grading The Hearts

Quick Guide

8 equal uniformed symmetrical hearts.
8 distinct symmetrical Hearts that separate from the Arrowheads above. If above is correct check the following.
Check if the hearts are split, measure length of heart then the length of the split.
Calculate the % of the length split, if it is greater than 8% and there are more than 2 of them IT FAILS.

In Detail and picture essay

1. First check to have 8 equal hearts and arrow heads.

They must be equal in size and shape as seen in the picture "True Hearts" Below you are shown a true set which are acceptable and a set Where the hearts are not quiet equal in size, but more importantly the hearts split in the cleft. This is a NO NO! (Not formed correctly this is the most difficult case of all to determine if it is correct or not)

In A1, A2 and A3 the heart is well defined the gap between the Arrowheads is distinct and clear and the split at A3 is minimal versus F1, F2 and especially F3 where this is the case

2. Calculating the accuracy and Hearts you can measure the length as shown X_to_Y in 1a (A template tool can be used) say this is 10mm.Iif you see any splits in the cleft this is measured and it can be no longer than 8% of the total length of the heart as shown by Z to C in 2A if there are more than2 hearts split at more than 8% then it will not make the grade True Hearts, in addition the arrow head must separate from the actual Heart

WHAT HEARTS SHOULD NOT LOOK LIKE

Here are examples of hearts that do not make it and are easy to determine. Simply because they are not equal and homogenous and the arrowhead and hearts blend together in some cases.

Here is a picture of an AGS0 cut AGS3706305 note that the hearts are splitting we can call them Variable V’s, also the Arrows heads and shafts are needle like and not straight and are broken up.

Checklist

8 equal uniformed symmetrical hearts.
8 equal uniformed symmetrical distinct hearts that separate from the Arrowheads above. If above criteria is correct then check the following.
Check if the hearts are split, measure length of heart then the length of the split.
Calculate the % of the length split, if it is greater than 8% and there are more than 2 of them IT FAILS.

This can be done visually once a standard of proficiency has been attained.

Grading The Arrows

1. Each arrow (8) must be clearly visible with a shaft and a arrow head.

2. The 8 arrows shafts as well as heads have to be straight and in the right position.

3. The 8 arrow points must meet the girdle.

4. There must be total uniformity and balance.

Poorly formed arrows.

These arrows seem to be okay, but they are not because, there is no uniformity, not all the arrowheads reach the girdle and the shafts do not line up straight with the arrowhead. Note the three arrows indicating the misalignment.

Visual Appearance

The Heart and Arrow pattern is analogous to all round stones, but if the diamonds have not been polished with super symmetry and well within the ideal parameters according to AGS standards, they will not be correctly defined. In addition, they take on a different form, shape and size.

Here is a comparative study of the patterning in stones. All the diamonds depicted here are 0.90 cts in weight they range from 0 to 7 on the AGS scale according to cut parameters.

Phony Hearts and Arrows Diamonds

Just because a diamond is cut to ideal proportions with an AGS0 does not mean that it will exhibit a crisp and true hearts and arrows pattern. In addition to being ideal, the diamond has to have super symmetry - where all the angles and facets have to be perfect.

Missing Hearts	Arrow heads or V-marks	Broken, split and different sized hearts, must be equal and uniform	No gaps between hearts and V-marks or arrow heads	Perfect Hearts

Missing Arrows	Poorly formed arrows no definition	Crooked shafts misshapen arrow heads	Missaligned arrow heads with shaft	Perfect Arrows

Stones that do not conform to these standards cannot be called TRUE Hearts and Arrows. There should be no variation in both the hearts and the arrow patterns. Quality A, B, C or 1, 2, 3 do not exist. They are either TRUE Hearts and Arrows diamonds or they are NOT. These standards need to be maintained just as they have in Japan where the standard was set and I believe all should maintain.

Diamond Measurements and Machinery

Today Sarin and Ogi instruments are used to read and analyze measurements, angles and percentages. This is not a method to indicate the perfection of cutting. These machines show the perfection of the engineering in the equipment and the maintenance of the equipment.

Today's cutting equipment is a lot more exacting. What is more important is that the equipment is in good condition and that the cutting plate skyf (pronounced skife like knife) and tang (tool to hold the diamond) are true and level (Fig. 1b) with each other so that there is very little deviation in the measurements when the stone is completed. The larger the stone the more visible this deviation can possibly be.

Note in Fig. 1a that the cutter can dial in the angle for the main pavilion or crown angles for the process of blocking out the stone in 8 cut. As you can see this is not entirely up to the cutter but also the engineers from the maintenance dept.

The precision of the cutter is really seen in the brillanteering (polishing on the lower and upper girdle facets as well as the stars) of the stone. This is where the craft comes into today's diamond cutting world, the finishing of the stone the upper and lower girdle facets (half's) and the stars. It is here where we have to rely entirely on the cutter for his mastery.

The Sarin and Megascopes are not measuring all these other angles at present, but the precision an consistency of these angles would reveal how great the cutter is. One method which reveals this all is by looking through the H&A scope at the hearts, one can see the precision and consistency of the cutting.

The antithesis of this is when a master diamond cutter swindles a stone, meaning he recovers the maximum possible weight and makes a lively stone. The angles; measurements and percentages will deviate by much on this stone, compared to a superideal. The Sarin machine will not show this mastery in the cutting but deviation yes. This machinery dose not prove how perfectly the stone has been cut. There is still one simple method above all the sophisticated MACHINERY and that’s the heart and arrow scope. If the machinery were to measure no deviation in other words if each angle was exactly the same one would view a diamond that would look dull to the eye much like a tympani drum, if one plays it in the center the sound is not good at all compared to when it is beat off to the side.

Conclusion

We found a careful balance must be maintained between

1. Angles (balance between Crown and Pavilion)

2. Consistency of Heart pattern (supersymmetry also known as optical symmetry)

3. Symmetry (external meet point symmetry)

4. Excellent or Ideal polish with very good luster

“Appraise the Appraiser” - Help for Consumers

The average consumer is often shocked to learn that only a small percentage of “independent appraisers” are unbiased and/or current on continuing education, grading systems, equipment and standards. Since there are no requirements to be a jewelry appraiser, a vast number of so-called appraisers lack the knowledge, tools or independence to satisfy a well-educated consumer.

A commitment to “smart shopping” should not end after researching your seller. If an appraisal is sought, you should appraise the appraiser with the same tenacity.

As a retailer we do not endorse any specific appraiser. Nevertheless, we took time last year to interview several accredited and respected professionals whom we consider “role models;” well-known in several sectors of the trade. We hope our questions and their diverse answers about appraisals will be helpful as a guideline for those who do their “smart shopping” globally.

David Atlas

D. Atlas & Co. Inc

Neil Beaty

American Gem Registry, Inc

Patti Geolat

Geolat & Associates

Bill "RocDoc" Lieberum

1948-2007

Arthur Anton & Julie Nash

Anton-Nash LLC

Richard Sherwood

Sarasota Gemological Lab

“Appraise the Appraiser” - Help for Consumers

1 Basic Questions

2 Diamond-Specific Questions

3 Selecting an Appraiser

4 Tough Stuff: Valuation, Regulation & Accreditation

5 Participating Appraiser Information

I. Basic Questions

What is the #1 thing clients are seeking in an appraisal?

DA: A legitimate helping hand and someone unbiased to trust.

NB: For new purchase appraisals they want to know if they got what they thought they got. People are concerned that dealers are misrepresenting things, either deliberately or simply because they don’t know the information. Another priority is securing appropriate documentation, which will cause their insurance policy to be as valuable as possible. A poorly written appraisal can both raise the price of a policy and can increase the difficulty of an accurate replacement in the case of a loss.

PG: Is it the stone that was advertised and did they pay the right price?

BL: Peace of mind. Comfort. Making sure that everything is hunky-dory.

AN: Insurance and assurance. They want to verify that they got what they were told by the seller. They also need insurance on the piece. Some are just plain curious.

RS: Reassurance. It’s like going to the doctor and getting a physical to be sure you’re healthy. They want to be sure the diamond is what it says it is. They want to be sure the vendor has not left anything unsaid.

What do clients consider the most important part of the appraisal?

DA: The accuracy of the information supplied by the seller and the dollar value. Is the diamond beautiful?

NB: The education. When people walk out the door they almost always say they learned more than they thought they would. This is also my favorite part. Many clients start out thinking that an appraisal is nothing more than the value conclusion and walk out really understanding and appreciating their purchase.

PG: All of it. Maybe that’s because I start off by asking them what we’re trying to accomplish.

BL: All of it.

AN: The focus is on the value we assign and how it compares to what they are paying for the item. They also love to look in the microscope. We try very hard to convince them that the description of the item is very, very important due to the trend of item replacement versus payment by insurers.

RS: The quality assessment (4 Cs) followed by the price. They want to know that it is what they say it is - and if not, how does it compare. They want to be sure they’re being told the truth. The price is secondary to actually liking the service and establishing a trusting relationship with the seller.

What are the most frequently asked questions you get…

Before the appraisal?

DA: How much do we charge? How long do we take?

NB: How much does an appraisal cost? Why isn’t it free? How long does it take? Can I watch? Where are you? What is my ring worth?

PG: How soon can you see me? How much does it cost?

BL: How much does it cost? What do I get? What do you think of this diamond?

AN: How much does it cost? What’s the process? Do you have to un-mount the stone? Can I watch?

RS: Can I watch? If it’s mounted do you have to take it out? How much does it cost?

During the appraisal?

DA: Is it fully brilliant and pretty? Is it graded properly? What is it worth?

NB: Clients often ask me my opinion of something the seller told them or of conflicting things they read on the Internet. They want to know the various grades regarding the stone. They want to know why my value conclusion or grading is different from what the expected. They want to know how long I had to go to school to get all those certificates on the wall.

PG: Is it the right stone? Did I pay too much for it?

BL: What do you personally think of the stone?

AN: What is your personal opinion of the stone and the seller? Sometimes a client will bring in 3 or 4 diamonds and say “pick one for me.”

RS: What’s your opinion of the grading? How does it look to you? What’s the wholesale value? That is not my place to answer: Retail, discount retail and internet are the three valuations I provide.

After the appraisal?

DA: How can we protect ourselves from anyone changing the diamond? Who can we trust to set it?

NB: It depends on the nature of the appraisal. I try to answer all questions during the course of the appraisal whenever possible. If there is something that requires follow-up we talk about how to approach the next step.

PG: I try to discuss A-Z including insurance and care & maintenance.

BL: There are questions about insurance and I try to help with that.

AN: We cover so much that by the end we’re done. We have bullet points and if there is something outside of those we’ll cover it. We’ll show them how to examine the diamond and identify it under a microscope for identification and condition at drop-off. Rarely we will get a question via telephone after the fact-and usually it’s, “why did the value decrease?” Answer: “It’s all market driven and everything fluctuates-Look at current metal prices, look at the early 1980’s diamond prices etc.

RS: Who’s a good insurer? If I disagree with a grade I’ll ask if the client likes the diamond (example J that should have been graded as a K). If they do I’ll encourage the client to call the seller and report what I found and see if they’ll work with you on it.

Is there any subject that is difficult to communicate to the average person?

DA: Resale value, distress value, liquidation value. What makes a diamond “used.” Why a diamond is not worth “retail” to me. Mostly very naïve questions from otherwise pretty smart individuals.

NB: It’s hard to communicate that the same thing is worth a different amount to different people at different times, and that those differences matter.

PG: It used to be “Are you going to appraise this for retail replacement or for insurance?” The answer to that question, and why that question exists, could be a whole new article.

BL: Valuation.

AN: Value perception, especially when the word investment is used. Markup is also hard to communicate. Everyone wants to make tons of money but they don’t seem to want anyone else to make a profit or understand that the world economy and everyone’ job depends on this principal. The other is the oversimplification of the role of DeBeers in the market, which is a 20 page answer on our part.

RS: Many people want to sell jewelry and wonder why it doesn’t resell well. If I appraise something for $20K they want to know why they can’t turn around and get $20K out of it. Another thing is when there are significant differences between subjective grades.

How do you address that subject when it comes up?

DA: We discuss analogies such as fine dining, automobiles, houses, clothes luxury items. We educate them in the way a free market functions. Some end up understanding yet many just look like a deer in the headlights. We want everyone to understand their purchase. Most want to know and some grasp the issue. Many just buy and never figure it out.

NB: I provide examples. For instance; the expected price you’d pay for a ring at a boutique in Aspen is different than what you’d sell it for at a pawn shop in Denver.

PG: I turn the question back on them; I seek to understand what it they are asking.

BL: On a case by case basis.

AN: We say that if it’s sparkly and you like it; buy it. But if you’re not in the jewelry business don’t expect to make money on jewelry or diamonds. It takes connections, it takes marketing and most people don’t have either at their fingertips. As for markup, people want things at wholesale. We have a standard speech about wholesale being buying in bulk and that if you can’t resell it at a profit - it’s not a wholesale value. They may not believe us at the time, but a few brave souls have later called us to say that we were right - they didn’t make any money. We also often explain the overhead jewelers have: insurance, rent, dental and medical plans, staff education, interest, alarms, electricity for lights etc. It’s not cheap to produce a comfortable and knowledgeable jewelry store.

RS: I have a discussion about wholesale, resale and liquidation values. As for significant grading differences, I had a person come in with a 1.09 G VS2 (graded by an appraiser who sold them the diamond). It was actually 0.87 M SI2. I had to very delicately and gingerly break it to them one step at a time. That was a great time to use the SAS 2000 in order to show them objectively.

Are your clients allowed to observe or participate in the appraisal process?

DA: Yes.

NB: Yes. I think participation is important and I encourage it whenever possible. Each session goes differently depending on consumer’s requirements and what they want to learn. If the client is present this exchange is much more interactive and works better for both of us.

PG: Yes.

BL: I prefer it.

AN: Yes, absolutely. It’s encouraged. Most of our appraisals are done with the client there. This builds trust in us, our knowledge, our process and most importantly-our ethics come through loud and clear.

RS: Yes. I prefer it.

What are the most important points you stress with clients observing your process?

DA: Openness and subjectivity in grading. Evaluation is not a dark science, but entertaining and enlightening. We give them a good show and make sure they understand their diamond.

NB: I want to understand what the consumer wants to learn from their appraisal session so that I’m providing the right information for their purpose. I wish to provide the truth in a way that’s useful to him or her. Hopefully I accomplish this.

PG: One of the most overlooked pieces of information in general is care & maintenance. Very few people are told about how to care for a piece of finished jewelry. Once we have finished assessing the piece and discussed insurance I ask if they have been told how to care for their jewelry.

BL: All aspects of anything they want to know. I like questions. I spend considerable time commenting and answering questions even if they are not in-person. I find it’s easy to chat about it because the answer to one question may lead to another question.

AN: We focus on the condition and workmanship of the piece, particularly the diamond plot for identification and condition of the diamond. We want to make sure that the stones are secure and if they are not, we want the client to see and understand why and what needs to be done to correct the situation. We want to demystify everything. We tell them; don’t be afraid to ask questions. The cut junkies need more numbers attention, but it’s still the same. An important question we ask the client is “are you happy with the piece?” Ultimately, the piece has to hit the client on an emotional or style level, if not all the D, IF and fabulous workmanship in the world won’t mean anything.

RS: I stress all of the Cs and how they interrelate in the diamond. The balancing act of color, clarity, cut and their influence as far as price goes. As long as any single factor is not askew it’s good. In the old days it was 50% color, 30% clarity and 20% cut but that’s shifted. Cut plays a much larger part now.

If the client is not present, what is different about your process?

DA: We cover all the bases. We grade the diamond and create a separate appraisal. We transmit this all via .PDF and then consult with them on the phone or via email. We understand their needs, or we believe we do.

NB: I ask the client via phone or email the same set of questions about what their requirements are. Otherwise it’s about the same although it’s a little less interactive. The long distance process tends to take longer because of the shipping involved. Most walk-in clients take about an hour, long-distance can take a week or so depending on my schedule.

PG: Nothing. Whatever works for them is how we’ll communicate. Some people are here. Others drop off and pick up. Others get the information via phone, mail etc.

BL: They don’t get to see it with their own eyes. I prefer to see the person and “teach” their eyes. When they’re not there that’s not possible so it may take more time to communicate what they would normally see. That’s why I don’t like charging by the hour.

AN: We prefer direct contact, but if there are any questions afterward we will discuss them via notes or phone calls. If we don’t have direct contact, then we did the appraisal through a jeweler-and most of our jewelers are very good about answering questions or referring the clients directly to us. The appraisal itself is pretty comprehensive so a person has to be very very interested to want to go beyond it.

RS: I prefer to communicate via email. With the 5 page report pretty much all the questions are answered. With that report very little follow-up is required.

Do you offer one type of appraisal and fee, or different levels?

DA: Different fees for differing services. Internet clients need a particular level for unseen diamonds and we offer them a one price fee approach which covers everything. Most services in house are based on carat weight or time.

NB: There are many different levels, which depend on the needs of the client. The simplest is a new purchase documentation or a basic pre-loss insurance appraisal. That gets you through a standard insurance replacement appraisal; full report, photographs, insurance replacement valuation, etc., all done while you wait and while you watch. More elaborate services like estates, expert witnessing, appraising the value of charitable contributions, etc., are priced differently. Mobile appraisal services are also available at client sites worldwide for an extra fee.

PG: It’s a wide range of services. For example, a lady this morning had an appraisal with me that was 13 years old. She had the stone reset and just wanted to know if it was the same diamond. The verification is minimal and it increases from there. I can do just that or do any number of add-ons which the client can request; or I will make a suggestion if I note something that should be called to their attention. My ARM designation is a big part of what I do; recommending appropriate coverage. This includes walking someone’s house to perform such a recommendation on a large scale. I find internet clients are obsessive about having the most information.

BL: Fee structure is step-by-step. For instance, if I look at something and it is obviously not what they were hoping in an immediate assessment it will be a no-charge or extremely small charge. Once we find something worth the time we go forward. We have fees by carat or by hour. Some appraisals (not gemological evaluations) require the appraiser to have certain credentials, belong to organizations, etc. and those structures are different.

AN: We charge a minimum fee per item. We can sort what they have and do IDs and determine if items are or are not worthy of appraisal at an hourly fee (this is only if they have literally tons of stuff). We don’t charge to peruse a few items if we are already on scene.

RS: I have a “Comprehensive Diamond Analysis” or “Advanced Diamond Analysis.” Both up to 2 carats for a flat fee. More per carat after that.

II. Diamond-Specific Questions

What is your position on examining pre-existing grading reports for diamonds you are appraising?

DA: No problem. We can do an objective job when we see them or do our own work first. Whatever suits the client is okay. We prefer to take less time and see existing reports, but it is not our call.

NB: If the client wants me to grade blind that’s fine; it’s good fun and it helps build confidence but it doesn’t really have a big affect on the appraisal. For most new purchases I do this as a matter of course. In customary insurance type work the lab documents are important to the replacement value of the property and for new purchases there are always questions about it so I always ask the customer to bring prior reports with them to the appraisal even if we don’t look at them until near the end.

PG: If the client wants me to grade blind that’s fine, it’s not going to change the appraisal.

BL: Whatever the client wants to do; it’s not going to change the appraisal.

AN: It’s up to the client. It’s not going to change our assessment. We will adjust measurements and weight to match the report if it’s mounted and we are certain that the stone we are evaluating is the same as the stone in the report.

RS: I’ll do whatever the client wants me to do; it’s not going to change the appraisal.

What do you discuss with your clients regarding the grading done at major laboratories?

DA: I respect major labs. I don’t say anything when I have nothing nice to say unless I must. I prefer GIA and AGS paperwork to other labs for distant clients.

NB: I don’t discuss whether I think a lab is good, bad or indifferent. I do my own grading. After I grade it I look at the lab report and if there are differences of significance I will point them out and discuss each and every one.

PG: Certain labs have greater reputations than others. While I don’t say I have the last word I explain that they’re paying me for my opinion. If it’s a report from a lab that is flagrantly wrong I’ll be forthright in my opinion and recommend they could go to GIA or AGS for a second opinion. If it’s from a strong lab and I think it’s a borderline stone but a fair call I will represent it that way. I like to think of myself as being more consultative than arbitrary. I want to be an advocate for the good transaction; to help the transaction happen and to leave the customer well-informed. If there is a disagreement I will try to help both parties. I am comfortable with AGS and GIA as arbitrators.

BL: GIA is strong on clarity/color. I don’t agree with GIA, IGI or EGL on cut.

AN: We tell them that AGS and GIA set the standard. If it’s an EGL report I may give pre-instruction about the likelihood of our grading differing from the report. With other labs, I definitely inform the client of this possibility.

RS: The labs set the standard. Someone has to be the “last word.” I respect the AGS and GIA.

Do you have a practical tolerance in areas such as color, clarity and finish? For example; is one grade between appraisers or appraiser and lab ok?

DA: The tolerances when grading un-mounted diamonds are normally one grade in color or clarity. I suppose a grade of polish or symmetry would also not be unreasonable. So long as humans are doing the grading there will always be some cross-over gray zones near the edge of one grade into the next. Some labs observe slightly different standards on top of this, too.

NB: For most applications one grade is tolerable. When there are differences I will discuss why it is different and what the repercussions are. The client can determine if it’s relevant to their situation.

PG: Correct. One grade. That’s the industry standard.

BL: I’m looking for the diamond to be within a reasonable tolerance. If I feel very strongly about a grade that translates to a lot of money I may recommend it go back to the lab for correction, but that would be a situation where it seems to clearly be elsewhere. Case by case.

AN: When it’s un-mounted within one grade is acceptable for color or clarity. For mounted the color may be within two and with clarity the grade can’t be better than what I’m seeing mounted, but it could possibly be two grades worse. We assign value on the grade we see.

RS: That’s right. In my mind I divide each grade into 3 tiers and tell clients my opinion. So it usually makes sense even if it’s a letter grade away.

What is your approach to establishing a clarity grade and how is it in-step with, or different from, the traditional GIA/AGS approach?

DA: We use GIA methodology as we have learned from seeing GIA reports. We do not use SI3 on any report. We will grade clarity enhanced diamonds although we have been asked to grade very few.

NB: In-step with GIA.

PG: In-step with GIA.

BL: In-step with GIA.

AN: In-step with GIA.

RS: In-step with GIA.

Do you assess whether a diamond is “eye-clean,” and if so what are your definitions?

DA: I can assess such a stone, but never recommend that terminology. It is even more subjective than standard grades for clarity. I have written extensively on how we define the term. It is highly useful between dealers, but so badly misused by the general trade that it is not a safe term much of the time.

NB: I do not. If requested I explain that it depends on your eyes, the lighting, the distance and even what you had for breakfast. There is a reason that this is not a standard judgment in diamond grading. If the client isn’t present for the inspection or they otherwise ask I’ll discuss whether it’s eye-clean to me and in my lab. As part of the ICGA requirements, I have regular eye exams just to be sure.

PG: It’s not typically asked.

BL: If they ask I’ll make the determination but I will describe it in every lighting condition and distance. I’ll also ask if they’re nearsighted.

AN: No, as this covers most of the clarity scale – in theory.

RS: Eye-clean at a distance of 15 inches under normal office lighting.

How do you approach characteristics which may influence durability and how do you make the determination of ‘safe’ or ‘unsafe’?

DA: We examine all details and report all details. We use “durability” as a basis for reporting problems. A diamond may never break even if it is not perfectly durable. I don’t think we have ever used “safe” or “unsafe” terminology. If a diamond has inherent vice, we report it. We plot any problematic characteristics. However, we do not attempt to hurt retail sales carelessly. So long as a consumer is made aware of issues, we are content.

NB: The examination yields the determination. Normally I analyze the stone through the microscope for girdle thickness variations, feathers, cleavages, design problems with the mounting, and then through cross-polarizers for stress. I photograph the face up profile of the stone as well as the girdle inscriptions, the most distinctive and recognizable inclusion and any damage present.

PG: I believe this is part of the appraiser’s responsibility and it’s a delicate discussion to have. It is something that can aggravate a seller, because some of them don’t think it’s the appraiser’s role. A feather heading straight for a corner, an open inclusion, etc. are things to look for. An included crystal breaking the surface which you know is going to come out and become a cavity is another to look for. Everyone will get told the same thing, but I may deliver it differently if someone is preparing to buy the stone and has not committed, as opposed to someone who is inheriting or already owns it.

BL: Step by step. Strain is an issue although some don’t assess it. I learned this from George Kaplan.

AN: With a background as jewelry setters we consider the pressure that will be applied in order to set the stone during our evaluation. If the stone appears extremely “unsafe” to wear or mount, we put a notation to this effect in our comments. We consider the setting choice as well and advise the client to have a conversation with the setter if appropriate.

RS: I have a ‘threat level’ scale: None, minor, moderate, significant, severe. So if I spot a surface-breaking feather I point it out. Talk about how many surfaces it breaks. Look at it in the polaris-scope. Make a determination. If there is one surface break and small strain it could be minor. With three breaks and lots of strain it is significant. In all cases I will assess it via pricing. It may be possible to compensate with setting and insurance. The recommendations will be appropriate to the threat level.

Are there any unique angles to clarity assessment you would like to share?

DA: We use standard methods including occasional immersion techniques.

NB: I try to provide clients with a photograph of the most recognizable inclusion for the purpose of identifying the stone, and teach them to look for it.

PG: I don’t think so. My approach is standard.

BL: About strain, or distorted crystal growth: If you have red strain in the center of the stone it can actually cause more dispersion which can improve it. But if it runs parallel with the grain it can be a problem. The most dangerous colors of strain are green and purple on the edge of the stone, like the girdle.

AN: We wet grade clarity. They do this at the GIA lab too; use soapy water and a soft paint brush. This helps when showing a client inclusions under magnification too. Dirt and dust float in the water and the client sees this and doesn’t mistake dust for inclusions.

RS: The wedge technique, along with brush and soapy water that allows you to see into the diamond better, especially with VVS clarities.

What is your approach to establishing a color grade and how is it in-step with, or different from, the traditional GIA/AGS approach?

DA: We use GIA methodology and make every effort to grade as the Gem Trade Lab would grade a diamond of a given weight. They do not grade per their course, but alter the grading for size and shape. We attempt to copy what the lab does.

NB: In-step with GIA.

PG: In-step with GIA.

BL: In-step with GIA.

AN: In-step with GIA. We use diamond master stones, not CZ’s and not stones with grading reports. Diamond Master Stones are graded specifically for color comparison so we use them. Our professional affiliations require their use as well.

RS: In-step with GIA.

Do you assess “face-up” color appearance in D-Z colors?

DA: We take this into account especially with fancy shapes in the lighter colors. With all shapes, face-up color is important beyond Q color to Z and beyond.

NB: On mounted stones yes, to some extent, because we have to. On un-mounted stones, no I don’t because color is graded from the side.

PG: Sure. I assess everything. I will comment on face-up color in fancy shapes that entrap body color, for instance, but it doesn’t change the grade. I had an interesting experience with a client who insisted on insuring an I color as an F because the jeweler told her “face up it’s an F.” While there may be legitimacy to that it’s simply not the way our trade currently assesses a diamond.

BL: I educate clients about it and may make a comment on it, but don’t make a grade based that way because it’s not the way it’s conventionally done.

AN: On mounted stones if necessary. Fancy shapes as well.

RS: I’ve been thinking of assigning 2 color grades; face down and face up. Or even adding a grade for fluorescence filtered out and in. I use the comments section to describe the fluorescence aspect right now (“improves ½ a grade with fluorescence”).

Are there any unique angles to your color assessment you would like to share?

DA: We attempt to mimic the grading of GIA-GTL. We do not believe that GIA teaches the same in their course work.

NB: No. I use a color-calibrated light in the entire room as well as a specific color grading light over my desk. I have 10 GIA and AGS graded masters and I do it by the book.

PG: My approach is in-step with the strong labs.

BL: I use a colorimeter too, but my assessment trumps the colorimeter. It’s a backup for verification.

AN: No.

RS: I use the SAS 2000 as well, which can quantify the placement within a grade and indicates the diamond’s appearance without fluorescence.

Describe your position on UV light and color grading.

DA: We grade color as we see it with daylight equivalent tubes. We grade the strength of UV visibility and effect with master stones we put together many years ago. I believe color grade is done with standard lighting which has some UV component. We use the same light for all diamonds.

NB: I chose Verilux for my laboratory lights. These same bulbs are in the GIA color box. Then I bought a white Formica desktop so that I have a near-perfect color grading environment at all times, which is important for the customer in my office. I have a Lexan UV filter to separately grade in the absence of UV in the environment but the current standard for GIA color grading includes a UV component.

PG: We all know a stone can have a different color appearance if it fluoresces. If there is a discrepancy in the near-colorless range and the stone fluoresces we will have a conversation about it. It’s all on a case by case basis.

BL: When I color grade I use Lexan to remove the UV. I do not use GIA lighting which has some UV. I use the Solux at 4700K, LEDs at 5800K and microscope overhead under magnification.

AN: We use the Verilux bulbs.

RS: I feel the color grade should be what it is with UV filtered out, then I place a note in comments if it improves with UV.

How do you determine the presence and strength of fluorescence?

DA: Long wave UV and master stones.

NB: I use long wave and short wave ultraviolet light in a sealed box.

PG: I use the GIA light box and grade under long wave and short wave UV.

BL: UV light cabinet with short wave and long wave.

AN: We check under UV light.

RS: The SAS 2000 will tell you, but I do it under UV with comparison stones.

How often have you come across “overblues” or diamonds with such strong fluorescence that the inside of the diamond was milky or oily?

DA: We have seen them, but really few come in for grading. They are not the kind of diamonds dealers want to disclose.

NB: Rarely, bordering on an obscure anomaly. Far more people worry about this than actually encounter it.

PG: It doesn’t happen very often.

BL: Rarely.

AN: In older jewelry we tend to see more.

RS: In 28 years I’ve run across less than 20.

Are there any unique angles to fluorescence you would like to share?

DA: I wear a strongly UV fluorescent diamond as I think it is super for a man’s ring. Some colors improve a bit with bluish fluorescence.

NB: I did an appraisal on a unique piece that was all about fluorescence; 70 diamonds or so of different colors and shapes. In normal lighting everything was white or a little off white but under UV it lit up to every color of the rainbow. I rather like fluorescence in moderation.

PG: I was surprised to find out the GIA determines it from 2”. That seems extremely close. I grade using their light box but from father away so my standards are tighter.

BL: It’s important to make sure, on an unknown stone, that the fluorescence is what it’s advertised as. In rare cases I’ve seen stones labeled with blue fluorescence that were actually body color.

AN: If a stone is in the tinted range of the scale, say J or lower, fluorescence can make it seem to face up a better color.

RS: Stones that have greenish-yellow fluorescence (yucky looking) always also have clouds in them – they are associated somehow. Yellow fluorescence can help diamonds of the same color but it’s the kiss of death in a white diamond.

How do you approach the measuring of a diamond’s proportions, and which proportions do you provide?

Round Brilliants:

DA: Diameter mm, depth mm, table mm, table %, total depth %, crown height & angle, pavilion depth & angle, girdle min-max, culet size.

NB: I use a Sarin scanner. I use ASET in conjunction with DiamCalc to establish measurements for mounted pieces.

PG: The labs are really the numbers of authority and those who are obsessive about all the measurements usually have a lab report. For my market there is not much call to revisit those numbers individually.

BL: I use a Sarin scanner and provide wire frames of crown and pavilion.

AN: We manually measure since we are mobile and 95% of what we see is mounted. We provide table, CA, PD, girdle, depth and culet.

RS: I use my OGI scanner if loose, double checked on DiamCalc to make sure it makes sense. I provide all proportions and deviations. On mounted stones I use direct measurement in tandem with DiamCalc.

Fancy Shapes:

DA: Length, width, depth. Table %, crown height, pavilion depth, culet size, unusual outline comments.

NB: Same as rounds.

PG: Same as rounds.

BL: I use the Sarin on these as well. There are problems with some aspects of the wire frames. Generally the angles are correct so I give the client what info I feel is valid.

AN: We provide manual measurements on fancies as well.

RS: I use my OGI if loose. I use the Sarasota Gem Lab cut grade classification from Poor to Excellent. I will use AGS grading for princess cuts. If mounted I do direct measurement with DiamCalc analysis.

How do you approach assessment of cut quality?

Round Brilliants:

DA: ImaGem-DFS and/or the AGA Cut Class. I use ideal-scope sometimes as well.

NB: Normally I use the GIA grading scale and methodology. As an AGS titleholder I can and occasionally do also use the AGS standards.

PG: I use the traditional GIA method. I talk about cut in terms the consumer can understand; off makes show themselves. For me, the point is to communicate and not to pontificate. The client wants to know if they are getting a good quality gem at a good quality price.

BL: I follow AGS and use their Proprietary Grading Software, my eyes and several other tools.

AN: We use direct measurement and the traditional AGS grading system. Being mobile precludes use of measuring devices like Sarin.

RS: GIA as the default. AGS for ideal cuts.

Fancy Shapes:

DA: ImaGem-DFS for rounded makes, princess and marquise or the AGA Cut Class. I also use ASET sometimes.

NB: I do not assign a score but do discuss the attributes of brilliance, dispersion & scintillation with the client. If it is a documented AGS0 princess I will refer to it as same.

PG: Same as with round brilliants.

BL: I use to use my eyes. Now I use AGS PGS, but look at it and see if I agree.

AN: Direct measurement of angles. We note if the pavilion depth is excessive and describe the outer shape, symmetry is especially important in fancies. We talk about performance qualities too.

RS: Sarasota Gem Lab cut grade classification and now AGS for Princess.

Is the “Hearts & Arrows” level of cut precision part of your appraisal?

DA: If requested we use it.

NB: Yes, if the diamond is sold as “Hearts & Arrows” or if I think it is an important part of the description. If it doesn’t apply I don’t mention this unless the client brings it up. I photograph both when it’s appropriate and possible.

PG: No.

BL: Yes. I even use optical symmetry assessment in fancies, face-up, as a matter of interest.

AN: We use the H&A viewer to check cut precision, if the stone is sold as H&A.

RS: It is for diamonds sold as “Hearts & Arrows.”

Do you have criteria in use to determine the quality or “grade” of H&A?

DA: We attempt to use Brian Gavin’s material on this subject.

NB: Yes, although the final grade is a Yes/No determination to me. I think ‘near H&A’ is a slippery slope that erodes the whole value of it.

PG: No.

BL: I use my own reasonable judgment.

AN: If the stone doesn’t grade excellent on all cutting criteria the point is mute.

RS: I use Brian Gavin’s standards.

What is your approach to establishing finish grades and how is it in-step with, or different from, the traditional GIA/AGS approach?

DA: Finish is the combination of Polish and Symmetry. We examine diamonds for these features and use the old AGS guidelines for assessing quality.

NB: In most cases I use the GIA approach but if my client is an AGS-entity I use their standards.

PG: In-step with GIA.

BL: I follow AGS grading, since I use their Proprietary Grading Software (PGS).

AN: We maintain AGS standards for finish.

RS: In-step with GIA/AGS. The entire stone being downgraded for VG or EX (instead of ideal) is odd with regard to AGS. Dave Atlas’ system is a good one in that regard. For the record, GIA EX finish is on par with AGS Ideal finish, in my opinion.

III. Selecting an Appraiser

What is an “independent appraiser?”

DA: A valuer who does not offer merchandise to his clients, but only offers advice which any fair examination would show to be unbiased. An independent does not recommend sources but does often give general buying advice.

NB: There is no such thing. We in this business have relationships with one another, whether it’s vendors with each other, vendors with appraisers, labs-vendors-appraisers, etc. Since we interact with each other none of us is truly independent. I’ve stopped calling myself independent for this reason even though I’m far more independent than all but a couple in the country. I describe myself as a “professional” appraiser. The fundamental requirement for objectivity is someone who is not a participant in the transaction at hand. The next tier is someone who is not involved and who is not a competitor, supplier or customer of anyone in the transaction at hand. The next tier is someone who is not a participant in the jewelry industry at all. I just don’t think anyone is “above it all,” because if they were they are not involved enough in the trade to know what they need to know.

PG: Someone that has no vested interest in the transaction.

BL: Someone who does not sell diamonds and jewelry and does not work for dealers. I do the reasonable person test: What would a person not being involved with the situation think of the position of the “independent appraiser” relative to the parties involved?

AN: You don’t buy or sell jewelry. You don’t care who they bought it from and you don’t care what they are doing with it; anything illegal being the exception.

RS: An appraiser who does not buy or sell and is not connected with the principals involved in the transaction and is in a neutral position with the freedom to point out any positives or negatives. An “independent” appraiser needs to be fair to both parties involved no matter who hires him. No matter who pays the fee his conclusions should be the same.

What tools do you think any independent appraiser, even one doing simple verification, should be equipped with?

DA: Microscope, loupe, master diamonds, UV source, daylight source, tweezers, Drucker’s GUIDE, Rapaport subscription or access to Rap price sheets, GG or Graduate Diamonds, GIA diploma.

NB: It depends on the client requirements. A client with a shoebox full of stuff from grandma who is wondering if it’s trash or treasure requires a different set of equipment and skills than the educated customer wanting to compare two very closely matched diamonds in order to make a shopping decision. The most important tools are appraisal and gemological training followed by a gemological microscope and a good camera. Diamond master stones and a standard viewing environment are a good start for most assignments involving diamonds but there’s really no end to what might be useful under the right circumstances. For some jobs, no equipment at all is required while others require a whole lab full of equipment. I guess the most important thing is good common sense in evaluating the parameters of the assignment.

PG: Gemological Microscope. Master stones, actual diamonds, and not in increments either. Refractometer, Computer. The standard list.

BL: Gemological Microscope. Polariscope. Master color diamonds, not CZs. Non-contact device for proportions. Brilliancescope viewer.

AN: A GG, metal arts training (JTC, Paris, GIA), appraisal training (ASA, NAJA, AGS), gemological microscope with Polaroid lenses, diamond masters-not CZs, refractometer, Polariscope, calibrated proportion measurement tools, a scale and something to test the karatage of metal.

RS: Gemological Microscope. Refractometer, polariscope, chelsea filter (colored). UV light. At some point they need a master stone set (CZs ok to start but discolor). It would be nice to have levels depending on what equipment you have: Level I appraiser, Level 2 appraiser, etc.

What is your advice to consumers for selecting an appraiser?

DA: Go with recommended professionals. Find out what they offer, what they charge and how long it will take.

NB: Appraise the appraiser. The burden is on the appraiser to convince you that his or her opinion has merit. The default should be that it does not. Interview them and check their credentials. Ask for recommendations from friends and associates. Be as clear as possible about why you are seeking an appraisal and what you hope to learn from the process.

PG: Confirm independence. Look at qualifications. Look at experience in the product you have to get appraised and the type of product that you need.

BL: Appraise the appraiser. What’s his education in both gemology and ISA or ASA coursework?

AN: Ask if they have appraisal training. A GG is not appraisal training. There are four legs on the stool; gemology, manufacturing and evaluation principals are three legs. The fourth leg is being current with USPAP and legal code. Pick the person who best answers your questions. It’s pretty unlikely that they will be the cheapest.

RS: Appraise the appraiser is a good idea. Find out degrees he holds, organizations he belongs to, experience he has and make a few calls to find out if he’s well thought of in the jewelry community.

What different advice, if any, to consumers who have done a lot of internet research?

DA: No amount of research changes what the appraiser should be advising the client. The client should let the appraiser do a complete job. If any discrepancies are to be discovered it only comes from a complete set of facts.

NB: Discuss in advance with your appraiser what it is you expect of them. Internet shoppers usually have a lot more concerns than storefront shoppers and some of the questions will require specialized equipment and techniques to answer thoroughly. Few appraisers have Sarin equipment and fewer still have the software to analyze the data. In a lot of cases this isn’t necessary but for clients where this is part of the expectation it’s important to check and make sure that they will be able to do what you want. Another example is that some dealers require as part of their return policy that the appraiser have specific credentials and some are pretty unusual. If the purpose of the appraisal is to make a shopping decision and one of these policies is likely to apply if you are unhappy with the results, make sure the appraiser has the required credentials before you set the appointment.

PG: No different.

BL: No different. The problem is that most appraisers will not give 50% of the information this type of consumer will go in expecting; or they will fluff it over somehow.

AN: Ask if they have the equipment we described, particularly measuring devices.

RS: I would add to the above to check out the level of equipment he carries.

IV. Tough Stuff: Valuation, Regulation & Accreditation

How do you treat “valuation” of gemstones and jewelry (replacement value, insurance value, etc.)?

DA: We do what the client needs. If the purchase is confirmation of value, we make an attempt to provide current value in the correct market where the diamond was purchased.

NB: I discuss valuation methodology with every client before the assignment even begins. The first thing is to define the product and the value characteristics. The second thing is to define the market. The third thing is to research the pricing in that particular market. What you get is a snapshot in time; the value of that product in that market on that date. It’s not the same for every job and can even be different for the same item as it relates to a different marketplace.

PG: There are different types of valuations. Value does not exist in a void. Value is always in-context. For insurance we are talking about replacement value in retail situations in which that jewelry would be traded. I calculate it that way.

BL: Delicately. It’s a case by case evaluation and approach. It varies with how it’s going to be used and considered. I want to give the most accurate information, correctly. We could talk for a year about fair market value for instance. There is not one market or one value and any valuation will change with time and circumstances. I visit with clients about all the ramifications on a case by case basis.

AN: It depends on what the appraisal is for. Speaking in terms of insurance, replacement value is the only way to go and our professional affiliations require this. An item should NEVER have and “insurance value” that is higher than a replacement value. (“Insurance value” tells me that there isn’t any formal appraisal training involved.) Why pay premiums on a dollar figure that is higher than an item actually costs to replace? The value also must be addressed in the most common market. For high end diamonds, we find that most comparable sales are coming through retail stores right now. So we value high end diamonds at a higher price than they may have been purchased on the internet. Why? Because the most common market is still the street, not the internet. This will likely change in time and insurance company premiums will likely change to match.

RS: The value I put on is RETAIL replacement value (average retail value for this major metropolitan area FL which will be adequate for insurance coverage – done at a conservative B&M retail price) Appraised at the price level at which the vast level of diamonds are sold; independent, free standing, professionally run jewelers – not mall jewelers. On a separate info sheet I do indicate my 3-tiered analysis; my estimates of prices in high retail, discount retail and expected internet pricing.

What is your position on appraisals with a declared value done by jewelers for products they are selling?

DA: It’s okay with me. A merchant is well within their rights to set a “retail price” on the merchandise they offer for sale. They may choose to discount it. If they are fraudulent there are legal remedies. Appraisers are not legal authorities and independent appraisers are not merchants. We call them as we see them. Other must be free to act as they see fit. The market and the courts will generally respond to problems.

NB: If the value conclusion is different than the transaction price without clear justification I think they are at best useless and possibly fraudulent. If the declared value is the transaction price and the other information presented is correct I have no problem with it, since what the jeweler is fundamentally doing is providing a detailed sales receipt. This can, in fact, be very useful but it avoids confusion for jewelers to title this document something other than “appraisal.”

PG: First of all these are not “appraisals” but if they are billed with full transparency and declaration of any discrepancy between selling price and declared value it’s fine.

BL: It’s not ethical and it’s not an appraisal legally, since that must be done by a disinterested party. The most it can be is a “price quote to replace it in my store.”

AN: If it’s their actual selling price it’s not an issue. If it’s more than the selling price and they can explain it logically (ie; in stock for two years, dropping a line etc.) that’s ok too. If the value is more than they would ever sell it for, they are really just giving money to insurance companies in the form of premium overpayment. Wouldn’t it be nice if people put that overpayment into jewelry instead?

RS: I see nothing wrong with a jeweler issuing a “statement of verification” with necessary information and a value for insuring the jewelry, as long as they declare their interest in the transaction: Make it clear they are the selling vendor, or at least don’t say “independent.”

What is your position on appraisals with a declared value done by major grading labs?

DA: Primarily bogus, feel-good reports. Naïve victims don’t seem to care a whole lot about it and it hurts no one else. If the phony values didn’t increase sales the labs would not have clients asking for this work. I don’t do them and have no animosity about others who do. When they get marched off to jail, I will watch them go. So far, no one is going to jail. That says a great deal about the situation.

NB: It’s the same as the prior question. None of the labs that I would describe as ‘major grading labs’ offer this service but there are some large firms that offer both lab and appraisal services and I’m going to assume this is what you mean. If it’s got a value statement then it’s not a lab report, it’s an appraisal and it should be held to the standard of any other appraisal for independence, market selection and for accurately applying that market. I don’t recall ever seeing a ‘lab’ prepared appraisal that meets this standard and a report that doesn’t is more likely to be deceptive than useful.

PG: The problem comes when the lab has a relationship with the store selling the diamonds they’ve given prices for. They are not then disinterested. These are tools the retailer uses to sell the merchandise. They are in the store with a “to whom it may concern” statement in the front which clearly indicates it’s for the purpose of completing a sale.

BL: They are not independent when they work for the seller. They should be disinterested and in some of these cases they are not.

AN: To begin with they don’t take into account the region, often don’t factor cut in, etc. If it’s used as a sales tool to fool consumers into thinking they’re getting something of greater value it’s not appropriate.

RS: I think they should do one or the other.

Do you think grading standards (color, clarity, etc.) should be regulated?

DA: Sure, but who is going to be in charge? I’d like to volunteer, but no one would have me. Who would anyone like to put in charge? I sure don’t want the state or the feds doing it for us. GIA has done okay with grading. They need to get with the modern world or they will miss the boat. Right now, there is no best choice.

NB: Actually, I don’t think it’s even possible. The existing standards are good they’re just unused. I think USPAP are well written and a well thought out set of standards for appraising yet 99% of jewelry appraisers don’t use it. I think the GIA grading rules are well known and mostly pretty good for describing diamonds but the catalog of abuses is near endless. As different things become important to customers, like ‘hearts and arrows’ have been recently for diamonds or ‘untreated’ has become for sapphires and certain other gems, new standards become necessary to grade them but when the attributes that make for value change the appraisers need to change with them.

PG: We already have standards. Unfortunately, you can’t legislate morality.

BL: Yes.

AN: We have the GIA system-we should use it. The problem is too many people grading diamonds with little training or just a home study course as a background.

RS: Yes, and it should arise from the industry.

Should there be accreditation required to perform independent appraisals? If so, what should it be?

DA: Accreditation is nice, but experience, knowledge and integrity are the true components of importance. Senior Membership in NAJA, CAPP-ISA, Senior Member (MGA®)-ASA, Graduate Gemologist GIA and FGA Diplomate are among the better credentials.

NB: Yes. I think personal property appraisers should be tested and licensed very much in the same way that real estate appraisers are - and have been since the savings and loan debacle back in the 1980’s. Additional training for specialty areas like jewelry should be required as part of the licensure and the education programs should be regulated by The Appraisal Foundation, the same people who regulate training for real estate appraisers.

PG: Yes and no. If you are going to hold yourself out as an appraiser you should not be without credentials. On the other hand there are jewelers in small towns, family owned and operated stores, who want to do something helpful for their customers. We shouldn’t make it impossible for them. Practically speaking, most major cities would not support somebody unaccredited because there would not be enough business for them. For example, if someone un-credentialed sets up shop in Dallas and tries to earn a living there are enough of us who are credentialed that the person could not be competitive. I don’t think we’ll see licensing of personal property appraisers. Why? Because insurance companies hold the key and they are going to opposite direction. The bottom line is that most appraisals are used to secure insurance and the fact is that until insurance companies begin rejecting appraisals from unlicensed appraisers nothing will change.

BL: Yes. At least a GG (GIA). Preferably CGA (AGS) or FGA. I find it shocking that in Florida hairdressers and waitresses must be licensed but gemologist-appraisers don’t have to be.

AN: Yes, everyone needs a gemological diploma, metal arts training and bench training for this job (JTC is a great source: www.knowjtc.com. Valuation training should be mandatory. Performing and charging for valuations with no valuation training is idiocy. In an ideal world this would include a competent gemological qualification like a GG (earned in residence) as well as extensive training such as ASA, ICGA, NAJA etc. We write to ASA standards because they require the most and are the strictest in our view. We think licensing is important, but the potential downfall is that government bodies are not known for being the brightest tools in the shed and the license process could likely be so easy to get that it would be meaningless - or worse; dangerous. In an even more ideal world we’d have peer review and continuing education for appraisers with testing that’s not simply multiple-choice. At the top level, to be comprehensive, an appraiser needs to know historical periods, designers, regions of the world, imitations, etc. They need to know this not just for appraisals but also to realize when a piece should go to someone who is specialized.

RS: The most deplorable thing in the appraisal industry is that absolutely anyone who wants to can hang up a shingle and do it. To me that is incredulous. Doctors have to take a uniform test to be licensed. There should be that requirement, continuing education and continuing re-certification required. Over and beyond that there should be a gemologist’s diploma and 5-10 years active involvement in the industry in a practical level.

What credentials or formal training have been of greatest benefit to you?

DA: GG (GIA), Master Gemologist Appraiser program of ASA and NAJA Appraiser conferences.

NB: I think the ASA educational program is great. The AGS ICGA is a very useful credential and I believe NAJA is very useful as well for both education and networking.

PG: All of them, for different reasons. Some are more helpful for marketing myself. Others were deeper in scope, like my FGA.

BL: All of them. Even in the worst course you take there’s something to learn from it.

AN: GG, GJ, ASA and Julie’s art history background.

RS: The GG is excellent. I am working towards my FGA (British gemological association). The GG is likened to a college course whereas the FGA is like grad work. The AGS courses are attractive as well; they seem very in-depth and professional.

What do you think is the strongest historical or recent development in the trade that has helped appraisers?

DA: The Internet has fostered distant customers for my firm and for many others. The hundreds of thousands of visitors to my website is an unprecedented method for gaining a very large market. I get customers from all over the world today that would never have found me back in the 1980’s.

NB: The creation and evolution of the Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice (USPAP) as a fallout from the abuses of the real estate appraisal business in the 1980’s has done more to make appraising a profession than anything else in the last century.

PG: The advent of the internet has actually given appraisers a boost.

BL: The internet.

AN: The internet, computers, USPAP and networking of the appraisal community.

RS: The internet. Because of the nature of sight-unseen sales, it’s made appraisers.

If you could change one thing about “appraising” in a global sense what would it be?

DA: No more acceptance of higher than necessary values to foster sales based on fiction.

NB: Improved consumer awareness of what they can and cannot expect from an appraisal. Consumers have an impression that any given object has a value and object ‘value’, especially with regard to jewelry is a form of bank account. That is specifically contrary to the truth, but there are often consumer expectations that lead both appraisers and jewelers astray. That causes trouble with consumers who aren’t prepared to accept the truth and appraisers who aren’t willing to deliver it. It’s a lot easier to just say what makes people happy than to stick to the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth.

PG: Definition of the word appraisal. If you talk real estate it has a very distinct meaning. It’s not so distinct in this field. The public doesn’t make a distinction in the word “appraisal,” and there is one between the paper provided by an independent entity and the paper you may receive from the store. I wish there was a better distinction between these services.

BL: Licensing. Appraisers should be licensed professionals. They should be held accountable for what they do, like doctors.

AN: Unqualified people would quit doing it.

RS: Inflated appraisals and “feel good” appraisals. There should be some standard. Rapaport has helped because it’s not the “word of God” but it gives a point of reference. We need the same kind of structure set up for markups. Like nomenclature within labs. I hope it’s right around the corner - remember in the old days we didn’t even have grading reports.

V. Participating Appraiser Information

David Atlas

Neil Beaty

Patti Geolat

Bill Lieberum

Arthur Anton, Julie Nash

Richard Sherwood

What is your background and how long have you been an appraiser?

DA: I’m a third generation jeweler and have been appraising since the early 1970’s. I am a GG(GIA), Past Sr. Mbr, ASA, Past Member ISA, and currently Sr Mbr, NAJA. Past International Chair of ASA Gems & Jlry Committee, and currently Assoc. Director NAJA and Ethics Committee Chair. I am President of D. Atlas & Co., Inc. Partner in Diamond and Gem Laboratories of America, USA-INDIA Partner in International Hallmark & Assay, INDIA.

NB: I was trained as an accountant and in college I discovered that I was a better jewelry designer than bean counter. I put myself through college making and selling jewelry and, in the end found that I didn’t want to be an accountant after all. I did custom manufacturing and appraisal work as one of the biggest trade shops in Denver for decades. I sold the shop in 2002 and went independent as an appraiser. It’s a very different experience and I must say I love it even though it was a cut in pay. I’ve been appraising since ‘96 and I’ve been doing it full time since ’02. I have a GG from GIA, appraisal training from ASA, ISA, Master Valuer, UC Irvine and I’ve been awarded every title from AGS available to appraisers including the ICGA.

PG: I began in sales in 1975. I became an independent appraiser in 1983. I currently have my GG, FGA, CAP, ASA and ARM.

BL: I started in 1979 polishing rings and working for a colored stone dealer. Opened store in 1980 and was appraising. I began as an independent in 1992.

AN: Arthur is a 3^rd generation jeweler from Chicago. He’s been appraising with Anton Nash since 1998. He worked in a family store from age 16. He has a GJ, GG and is an ICGA. He instructed manufacturing & gemology at GIA, taught design for GIA at the NY campus and is a senior member of NAJA. Julie has been doing full time appraising for 10 years. She was making jewelry in 1987. Gemology and antique jewelry are her strengths. She has a GJ, GG and is a Master Gemologist Appraiser with ASA and is a CG with AGS. Both have written numerous articles on gems and jewelry in AJM Journal, Professional Jeweler and JCK. They are co-authors of the book, “Working With Gemstones-A Bench Jewelers Guide. They are co-owners of the Jewelry Training Center in Colorado Springs, which is a school for developing new talent in the jewelry industry and honing the skills of veteran jewelers, gemologists and sales professionals

RS: I have 28 years total in the business, 23 of which I have been appraising. I was in retail sales at a local high end firm, eventually becoming manager of their premier multi-million dollar store. After 7 years working for this firm I opened and ran my own stone for 13 years before going into full-time independent appraising the past 8 years.

What geographic area do you serve?

DA: Southeastern PA, South NJ, MD, DE. Nationally via the Internet and the mail.

NB: Mostly the USA and Canada as well as some European and Asian clients.

PG: The USA.

BL: Before the internet it was Pennsylvania. My credentials got me witness work. The internet coincided with my independent practice. Now I serve the US, UK, Canada, Aus, Italy.

AN: The Colorado Springs metropolitan area, but we have people who fly in from around the country.

RS: Tampa Bay then the State of Florida then the nation then 27 different countries. This is due to internet exposure and colored stone expertise.

Who are your clients?

DA: Mostly retail jewelry stores. Secondarily, consumers and diamond dealers.

NB: Individual consumers, government entities, attorneys, accountants, and estate managers.

PG: Consumers, government agencies, estates, banks, lawyers, insurance companies, claims adjusters, underwriters and courts of law in criminal cases.

BL: Consumers and others via Attorneys, Law Enforcement Agencies and Private Detectives.

AN: Consumers, attorneys, trust departments and jewelry stores.

RS: 50-60% insurance local for private individuals, 25% internet private, 20-25% banks/attorneys (estate)

How much of your business comes from the internet?

DA: 25%

NB: 30-50%

PG: Not much yet. What I get comes from Pricescope, ASA, etc. I hope to get more.

BL: 70%

AN: 15%, particularly the out of state business.

RS: 25%

How much of your business is repeat business?

DA: 90%

NB: About a third.

PG: Some clients for over 20 years. The majority is private consumers.

BL: That’s a tough question.

AN: 10-15%

RS: 30% private. The pros are steady.

How much of your business is referral-based?

DA: 99%

NB: All of it.

PG: Virtually all.

BL: 40%

AN: 80%

RS: All of it.

How much do you advertise?

DA: It used to be actively in the Yellow pages and direct mail. Did little advertising in the past couple of years.

NB: The sign outside my shop and my own website. I have a brochure that I give to insurance agents that, hopefully, they show to their clients when they’re asked about appraisals. I’ve published quite a few things online that folks seem to find useful. I have lots of customers who refer me to their friends, coworkers and relatives.

PG: Nowhere.

BL: Nowhere.

AN: Nowhere except the yellow pages, our website and the ASA, AGS and NAJA websites. We do as much public speaking and trade writing as possible to promote ourselves.

RS: Nowhere. The key is to just do as excellent a job as you can and your work will prove itself. I did an experiment and stopped all advertising. My business increased.

Wine and Diamonds

Mon, 02 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

From the grace of halo to the sophistication of micro pave, design trends in diamond engagement rings and wedding band settings are changing, reflecting today’s busy lifestyles. Ergonomic designs reign supreme in today’s market, no longer does pure panache determine the design that leads to ‘I Do.’

“Some brides prefer an ergonomic design that can comfortably be worn day in and day out,” says Debi Wexler, President of Whiteflash.com. “Others look for added style in an intricate or trendy setting; which, unfortunately, can be limiting when it comes everyday wear,” adds Wexler. Whiteflash.com is an e-jewelry boutique specializing in Hearts & Arrows diamonds and custom-designed engagement rings.

Here’s a peek at the up-and-coming trends in engagement rings according to the boutique’s jewelry designers:

Myth: solitaires stand tall

Not true of today’s diamond solitaire settings, says Wexler. “Solitaire settings are traditionally upswept, raising the diamond to make a very bold statement,” she adds. “However, people are also choosing settings where the center diamond sits down low, creating a look that is extremely elegant and also ergonomic.” With the diamond down in the setting, brides-to-be are able to wear the engagement ring in everyday work and play situations long after they say their “I Do’s.

Halos make a comeback

The likely reason for that comeback, according to Wexler, is that the halo-style diamond engagement ring makes the center diamond appear larger than it really is. “And the appearance of a high carat weight in the center stone is extremely important for many who are headed to the altar,” says Debi Wexler. Whiteflash.com has introduced several halo designs to its line of diamond engagement rings in the past year, including one with beaded diamonds along the shank as well as around the center stone, Increased sales prove the design’s resurgence and staying power.

A toast to the ‘Champagne’ setting

One design stunning even to the most fashion-savvy is the diamond ‘Champagne’ setting. “Those who desire this setting know exactly what they’re looking forâ¦and that’s something unique,” says Wexler. “The Champagne style of setting has an unmistakable following.” The succesfull creative design team consisting of Debi Wexler and Frieder Lauer at Whiteflash.com deserve a toast of the bubbly for their interpretation of the Champagne-style bubble design in their U-prong Champagne engagement ring among others.

Wexler says the company’s Champagne fashions have produced a great deal of spin-off custom-design work, much of which incorporates Whiteflash.com’s exclusive Whiteflash ACA melee diamonds. “The design of the Champagne diamond setting intermixes several componentsâ¦it’s these combined features that really draw[s] people to it,” she says.

“Often people ask us to replicate one aspect or another of the Champagne design into a custom project, and of course we don’t hesitate to do so.” According to Wexler, the U-Prong, domed shank and accent diamonds are examples of features that can be applied to any custom piece. “Our Whiteflash ACA melee diamonds have been adopted into thousands of projects, and are a stunning complement to any setting style,” comments Wexler.

Delicate pave and micro-pave designs

The old debate: Delicate versus complex, which is better? According to the designers at Whiteflash.com, this season the style leans more heavily towards delicacy rather than complexity.

Center stage: Eternity bands

The pave and micro pave diamond engagement rings come into play when customers are looking at smaller diamond settings like the eternity band. According to Wexler, there has been a recent push for smaller diamonds in settings. “In some cases even solitaire engagement rings are being replaced with semi, and even full diamond eternity bands,” she says. The trend is likely a response to the aforementioned movement towards dainty-looking styles and those that offer daily wear. Eternity bands traditionally are set with diamonds anywhere from one to three points (carats).

Brides trade up

The ‘trading-up’ trend will never fade into obscurity. “We’ve found that it makes a difference in the design process if the bride-to-be is involved up front,” says Wexler. “If the groom chooses to go it alone, he typically gravitates toward a simple design with a smaller-than-desired diamond. And what happens next? The bride-to-be upgrades the size of her diamonds, even adding side stones, and looks for a setting more suited to their tastes.”

‘Trading up’ need not always be done up front. Many couples consider upgrades for important milestones like anniversaries, birthdays and holidays. “While her diamond engagement ring was [current] as a newlywed, many years later she might change or modify her setting to reflect transition in her own life or to keep up with current jewelry trends,” says Debi Wexler. “Even if she keeps the setting forever, there is a chance that down the road she may require a larger diamond. We have many repeat customers who upgrade their diamonds with us,” she finishes.

“Marriage is a lifetime commitment,” Wexler says. “When you choose Whiteflash.com, we’ll be there for a lifetime with you.”

2009 Gold Trends

Mon, 02 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Chinese investors beware! Don’t get trapped in the glitter of gold. In China, investors have been rushing to gold following the crash of global markets.

But, the investment in gold is also riddled with risk and this is a critical time now where investors should be cautious with their gold investment.

According to analysts, gold can be a very good product for holding its value. But the risks for paper gold and gold futures are nearly 10 times bigger than real gold investment. Buying gold related stocks can also be a risky move in today’s market/diamonds_info

"Gold is a very solid asset. Buying physical gold does have advantages compared with other investments. Investments in gold-backed financial products and paper gold should be left up to the professionals," says Mark Robinson, a bullion analyst based in Dubai.

According to Robinson, gold investment in China is starting to look like a crowded marketplace. It’s being boosted by the rising prices and market demand. And the unpleasant performance of the

stock market, low expectations for the US dollar, as well as investors’ concerns over the banking crisis have also pushed up people’s need for gold. Afterall, Gold seems more liquid than FDIC accounts.

Over the past 5 years, when gold investment was booming, more problems tended to appear in the market. Many investors have been hit really hard because they couldn’t contain themselves, and continued to pour more money into it. But one needs to proceed with caution.

Meanwhile, China has nearly $2 trillion in surplus reserves. Beijing’s piggy bank is overflowing with money. In fact, at nearly $2 trillion, China has the largest foreign reserves of any country in the history of the planet.

Whereas Washington now has nearly $11.4 trillion in debts, excluding the possible liabilities of the real estate crisis.

With this case scenario, China’s currency yuan should have more purchasing power. But that’s not the case — the dollar remains stronger.

However, over the next few years

China

is essentially going to corner the world’s gold market.

Beijing knows that the dollar’s status as a reserve currency is soon going to be history. Just like the pound sterling lost its status as the world’s reserve currency in the early 20th century.

And authorities in Beijing also believe that as China rapidly progresses toward superpower economic status, the yuan should be a world-class, stable medium of exchange.

They envision the yuan as a major international currency some day, with as much (or more) status than the US dollar. That’s why they’re going to back the yuan with gold.

Plus, there’s another reason for Beijing to buy more gold as part of China’s piggy bank. China has an estimated $1.3 trillion invested in dollar-denominated investments. They can’t get out of the dollar quickly. It would destroy the US economy which would have a direct negative impact on China.

Just to up its reserves to 5% in gold, Beijing would have to purchase $93 billion worth of bullion. That could easily send the yellow metal skyrocketing to more than $2,000 an ounce. Stay tuned.

Rings Worth Committing To: A Groom’s Guide

It’s one of the ironies of love and marriage: Whether for romantic or other reasons, the onus for buying the rings often falls on the very person who knows the least about jewelry, the groom-to-be.

So maybe the best piece of advice for any male out there is this: Pretend you’re shopping for a new car and do as much homework as you would before entering the showroom.

Read on for some other useful tips:

Don’t Rush It-Most men take one to three months to find the right engagement ring. But you might be able to save yourself some time and stress by shopping for all three rings-the engagement ring and separate wedding bands for bride and groom-at once.”Finding three rings at the same time takes some of the pressure off the groom because it means a big part of the wedding to-do list will already be taken care of,” says jewelry and style expert Michael O’Connor. “Also, it’s easy to decide what will coordinate with the engagement ring if you see them all at the same time.” Web sites like www.whiteflash.com are terrific resources for visualizing what you need before buying, and that particular site’s policies are great when it comes to returns and lifetime trade-ups in case you decide to buy a larger stone with a different Platinum setting.

Know The Lingo-You already know that car dealers react differently to buyers who know what they’re talking about. So come armed with a few choice buzzwords technically known as “the four Cs”: “cut” (the proper proportions, whether a pear, oval or other shape, optimize a diamond’s natural radiance); “clarity” (the fewer a diamond’s flaws, the more valuable it is); “color” (whitest is best); and “carat” (although a higher carat weight may increase a diamond’s rarity and value, small stones can still be more expensive if the other three Cs rate highly). And remember: The center diamond generally accounts for most of the ring’s price, so it’s important to invest in a quality Platinum setting-which most brides prefer, according to the latest surveys-that will hold the diamond securely in place for a lifetime.

Know Her Style-The good news is that the three rings you buy don’t necessarily have to match. “The band and engagement ring just need to work well with one another and complement your bride’s personal style,” O’Connor explains. “Is she ‘girly’ or outdoorsy? Modern or traditional?” If you’re having trouble figuring out what she likes, talk to her friends or hit a few jewelry stores together.

Determine A Budget-Most men set aside two months’ salary for the engagement ring alone. So if you’re buying all three Platinum rings at once, figure on budgeting another month’s salary for the additional two rings.

The Perfect Diamond Ring

All I need is THE DIAMOND RING, a perfect one, so perfect she wouldn't say NO! After all, diamonds are girl's best friend (a song featuring Marilyn Monroe).

How much should I spend?
Where do I buy it?
What kind of ring/diamond should I buy for her?

The easiest way to shop for a ring would be internet i.e. online shopping. It gives a lot of options, beyond the regular established brands like De Beers. But first of all, let's see a few basic aspects: color, cut, carat and clarity, known as 4 C's of a diamond. These four factors affect the price very much.

A Diamond Cut (and shape):

Cut is about the symmetry, proportions of a diamond, its width, depth and other geometrical terms, not just its shape. It is about how much light is reflected from the diamond's inside. Light disperses internally among mirror facets and reflects back from the top of diamond, often perceived as brilliance and fire. A shallow cut actually lets the light escape from sides and the diamond appears larger than it is.

A 'round brilliant cut' shape is the standard and most popular. The non-round shapes known as fancy shapes include heart, radiant, marquise, pear, emerald, oval etc.

A Diamond color:

A diamond's 'color grade' does matter a lot in pricing of a diamond. A color in diamonds is not the about red, blue, yellow. These colors matter in fancy diamonds. But a true diamond is actually a colorless one. G.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America) has established color grading classification which starts from D, the finest color (i.e. colorless) up to the last alphabet Z getting progressively more yellow. Yes, yellow!

Colorless diamond is rare, allows more light to pass thru it and hence creates more sparkle. Grade D-to-E are the finest, most desirable, sparkling and attractive colorless(white) diamonds. But grade G-to-I diamonds are also good bargain as their yellow color tint can not be detected easily. A color of diamond is best seen from the side, and not from the top of the diamond.

Grade J-to-M have a faint tint of yellow, but these can be very attractive too if combined with some great complimentary ring. Looking at these grades, a most colorless diamond is desirable, but there are many desirable colors too. More colors can be seen in fancy diamonds, in which, a color( or a darker color) actually costs more.

A Diamond Clarity:
It is the imperfections, internal (inclusions) and external (irregularities) under magnification. Its scaled as below and is the easiest factor to decide if provided, FL-IF being the best clarity rating.

FL-IF: Flawless - Internally Flawless

VVS1-VVS2: Very Very Slightly Imperfect

VS1-VS2: Very Slightly Imperfect

SI1-SI2: Slightly Imperfect

I1-I2-I3: Imperfect

But/diamonds_info.even a VVS, VS and SI clarity can be a good choice. A diamond can be attractive even in this clarity range as long as the inclusions are not visible to naked eye.

A Diamond Carat (or weight):
Carat (and not karat as used for gold purity) is unit of weight of the precious stones in general. Carat is related to weight and size of a stone while Karat relates purity or impurity in case of Gold. This is due to difference in specific gravity of stones. For same carat weight, a diamond is smaller than an Emerald and bigger than a Ruby. This is by far the most price sensitive factor, as the price goes up exponentially with increasing carat weight.

1 carat = 200 milligrams

Finally, slender and small fingers can make even a 1 carat stone look big!

In addition to these 4 C's of diamonds, there is one more, required in diamond market.

A Diamond Certificate:
A certificate gives you the exact measurements, weight, cut and quality of a loose diamond. There are many, but Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society (AGS) are the two most widely regarded and recognized diamond grading labs in the world. The advantage of GIA/AGS certificate is that the certificates of many sellers (and their products) can be viewed online.

Bottomline:
Online shopping can be very easy and authenticate with GIA/AGS certified diamonds. Otherwise, a visit to shop is necessary to make sure what you see is what you get. Besides, you may not recognize difference between two different quality diamonds unless you are told their prices, i.e. higher price doesn't necessarily guarantee satisfaction. The choice of ring is important as well and complimentary to the diamond.

Why Whiteflash does not use Brilliantscope

The Brilliance Scope Analyzer is a tool that purports to return values for white light, color light and scintillation in a diamond using an imaging spectrophotometer in a controlled lighting environment.

The attractive quality of this machine is the consumer-friendly report it produces: The results page includes colorized photos and simply stated values. It is a tool suited for jewelers looking to quantify diamond beauty on paper in a way that the casual shopper may easily comprehend.

After testing this device we feel that it can be useful for separation of good light return versus poor light return over a range of average to good cut quality. However, when making comparisons between equivalent makes of the finest precision-cut diamonds we find the results spurious and inconsistent. Our research has identified fundamental issues with the aesthetic relevancy and analytic accuracy of what Brilliance Scope purports to measure.

Summarily, we feel our customers are not well served with Brilliance Scope data for four far-reaching reasons:

1. What it reports is aesthetically irrelevant.

2. What it reports is analytically inaccurate.

3. The inaccuracies in the reports are deceptive to consumers.

4. Even if readings were accurate or relevant, the admitted error of +/-5% makes its use as a comparative tool impossible.

Colleagues and consumers interested in our rationale can find a synopsis of conclusions, below.

1. AESTHETIC IRRELEVANCY

Unlike Sarin, which measures proportions, an Ideal Scope image that shows light leakage or a Hearts & Arrows viewer which shows physical symmetry, the Brilliance Scope tries to evaluate what your eyes can already see. However, no machine can perceive diamond beauty as well as the human eye. Issues of subjectivity and environment prevent Brilliance Scope from providing any realistic correlations.

1a. IRRELEVANCY DUE TO SUBJECTIVITY

Brilliance Scope attempts to assign a value to beauty, but human taste is subjective. Even if BrillianceScope is useful for separating high and low performers of average cut it cannot make judgments of taste. One diamond scoring slightly higher or lower than another cannot be termed as less or more beautiful, since humans see beauty differently. “Devices that measure light and evaluate a diamonds light responses attempt to give an objective result for the subjective way human eyes and the brain perceive diamonds.” – Sergey Sivovolenko (OctoNus, Moscow, Russia)

Generations of diamond cutters have worked to discover and refine several types of diamond beauty to suit humanity’s broad palate. A sudden mechanical interpretation of beauty is not acceptable as a replacement for the many variations in taste among humans who appreciate beauty at the highest level.

1b. IRRELEVANCY DUE TO ENVIRONMENT

Brilliance Scope attempts to measure in divided, mechanical terms what humans see together in nature. It uses lighting conditions under which diamonds are never viewed to calculate pixels and return separate numbers for qualities of beauty that are never viewed separately.

“To be meaningful, measurements of diamond beauty should be made in the typical illumination circumstances in which human judgment of that beauty is made. Measurements of beauty in atypical lighting can give high scores to cuts that have lower scores in typical illumination.” (Michael Cowing - “Describing Diamond Beauty”)

Brilliance and fire work in tandem to create the “life” of a diamond’s beauty. It is erroneous to separate them. Moreover, Brilliance Scope does not account for the contrast quality of brilliance in its measurements, nor does it use many small (distant) light sources so it cannot possibly evaluate scintillation in relevant or accurate terms.

2. SCIENTIFIC INACCURACY

Brilliance, fire and contrast dictated by light source(s), environment and even the viewer’s presence in the diamond’s panorama of illumination all work together to create the scintillation aspect of a diamond’s beauty when that diamond undergoes movement. Brilliance Scope cannot account for the many variables of the contrast aspect of brilliance, nor does the diamond being measured undergo movement. Therefore it has no chance of evaluating scintillation in relevant or accurate terms.

2a. INACCURACY DUE TO LACK OF DIAMOND MOVEMENT

Scintillation is a “quality” word used to describe diamond sparkle resulting from dynamic movement. A human observes scintillation when the diamond is moved back and forth. Sparkle occurs as different facets reflect light from various sources through the crown to the observer’s eyes as the diamond moves. Tolkowsky and others referred to this quality of light return as the “life” of the diamond. Today we call it scintillation or sparkle.

BrillianceScope cannot measure scintillation as the human eye sees it because the diamond is stationary while measured. Attempting to vary light sources instead of moving the diamond is comparable to asking a shopper to hold the diamond still relative to his/her eyes and jump up and down to vary how light is reflected through the crown.

Any meaningful measurement of scintillation would entail measuring white light and colored flashes coming through all of the crown facets over an accepted range of tilt (typically 30 degrees). This would require a separate measurement coefficient for the table, 16 star and bezel facets and 16 upper girdle facets. These coefficients would then need to be multiplied by all degrees of tilt. Of course, this would be a very simple starting point, as it does not take into account indexing, range of light sources, range of viewer, intensity of light, and especially contrast qualities of brilliance:

2b. INACCURACY DUE TO LACK OF CONTRAST BRILLIANCE

There is a definition of what we perceive with scintillation known as the contrast quality of brilliance (see Michael Cowing’s studies on contrast brilliance). In short, contrast brilliance is the diamond’s “static contrast,” whereas scintillation is “dynamic contrast” due to movement. Contrast brilliance is one frame or snapshot of the moving picture of scintillation. The change in contrast brilliance from one moment to the next with movement is scintillation. Mathematicians would recognize scintillation as the partial derivative of contrast brilliance with respect to movement.

Any assessment of contrast brilliance (and therefore scintillation) must take into account illumination and viewing conditions, as well as the physical presence of the viewer in the diamond’s panorama of illumination. Not only does Brilliance Scope fail to account for viewer and environment, its measurements are made in unnatural, atypical illumination circumstances (also addressed in 1b, above).

2c. INACCURACIES IN MEASURE

B2. Deceptive Returns

If Brilliance Scope is not measuring scintillation when the spectrophotometer is firing, what is it measuring? The following is information we strongly feel must be voiced about why BS gives deceptive readings for longer lower girdle facets, and the future of these diamonds in the 2005 GIA and AGS cut-grading systems.

LOWER GIRDLE FACETS

Our cut team understands why Brilliance Scope returns high “scintillation” values for stones with long lower girdle facets. We also understand why those returns are deceptive. As the percentage of the lower girdle facets increases the pavilion mains become thinner. Up to a certain percentage this may increase the brilliance of the diamond, but after 80% proper dispersal of light is compromised:

(please see this link for a diagram of diamond parts)

/diamond-education/diamond_parts.aspx

The pavilion mains are the mirrors of the diamond. They are the engines that drive light return. To acquire maximum efficiency, aesthetic spread and beauty within a diamond those mains are of paramount importance. The harmonious relationship between the mains and lower girdle facets is crucial. By increasing the lower girdle facets and thinning the mains you more narrowly focus light return, reducing dispersal and the contrast quality of brilliance within the stone.

http://www.acagemlab.com/Article1/Article1.htm

Bias: BrillianceScope’s particular lighting scheme tends to assign higher scores to one type of facet arrangement. In our experience this arrangement does not result in a character of beauty with optimum visual balance. It has been widely observed that BS overlooks combinations of facet construction that may be considered equally as beautiful as its more “preferred” arrangements. It attempts to assign a value to beauty, but human taste is subjective. One diamond scoring slightly higher or lower than another cannot be termed as less or more beautiful, since humans see beauty differently. Generations of diamond cutters have worked to discover and refine several types of diamond beauty to suit humanity’s broad palate. A sudden mechanical interpretation of beauty is not acceptable as a replacement for the many variations in taste among humans who appreciate beauty at the highest level.

BRILLIANCESCOPE DECEPTION

The reason “Scintillation” scores on BS are higher on diamonds with thin pavilions is because the light becomes more needle-like and concentrated. However, there is not increased light as BS would have you believe. As a matter of fact, the inner beauty (dispersion of white light into spectral colors) of the diamond is reduced in favor of a narrowly focused needle of returning white light. This is most tangible in soft lighting conditions, where “narrow focus” of thinner mains causes the diamond to suffer. Diamonds with thinner mains (lower girdle facets >80%) do not perform as well in soft light.

IS “BRILLIANCE THE ENEMY OF FIRE?”

No. Neither is fire the enemy of brilliance. However, the BS says differently.

Brilliance is a return of white light. Dispersion is the breaking-up of white light into spectral colors. Fire is the suite of colored flashes (chromatic flares) one sees within the diamond. The finest diamonds achieve a harmony of both brilliance and fire.

All diamonds have the same dispersion value (.044, which is one of the highest for any natural, transparent gemstone). Therefore, the amount of fire observed in a diamond is dependent on facet construction as much or more than lighting conditions. The cut will determine how much brilliance you see, how much fire you see and whether you can see both in the same gem.

Diamonds can be and are purposely cut to return more brilliance than fire (simply put: lower girdle facets >80%). Diamonds can be and are purposely cut to return more fire than brilliance (simply put: no light leakage and very thick pavilion mains). And of course, diamonds can be cut to unify and maximize brilliance and fire (simply put: true hearts and proportionate mains).

Unfortunately, the BS rewards brilliance over fire. This is why some of the best cut and well-balanced diamonds do not stand up to diamonds with over-long lower girdle facets on BS: It favors the “needles” of thin white light, even if the diamond is not ideally balanced.

HISTORY LESSON

Q. Where did the term ”Fire” as it relates to a diamond originate?

A. It referred literally to the reflection of “fire” (lantern, torch, etc.) in a diamond. Marcel Tolkowsky viewed diamonds under gas lanterns. An important aspect of the quality of light return is the dispersion of light into spectral colors, which are seen as fire.

Old European cuts and old Mine cuts had much shorter lower girdle halves: 72-75%, sometimes even shorter. Why? Because even in pre-Tolkowsky days the cutters knew this was the way to maximize spread of light dispersal inside the diamond. They cut by the gas lantern. The best diamonds robustly returned maximum fire under those conditions. They still do today.

Diamonds producing what has traditionally been considered the “best” light return have lower girdle halves <80%. Cutters like Brian Gavin (ACA) and Richard Von Sternberg (8*) still respect that proportion – which leads me to the next item:

CONSUMER BEWARE, PART 1

I am about to pull back the curtain on a controversial piece of truth-in-trade: Some cutters have discovered they can “max out” those scintillation returns on BrillianceScope by lengthening lower girdle facets to narrow and focus light return. Their over-thin pavilions return those ”needles” of light in great concentration and the machine rewards that with high numbers. This is like twisting a nozzle on a garden hose to acquire a thinner stream. There is not more water, it’s just more concentrated and appears stronger than it really is.

HOW TO TELL WHETHER LOWER GIRDLE FACETS ARE TOO LONG

We will assume that a stone cut for the Hearts & Arrows effect will have correct indexing and flat facets. Even if this is the case, stones with lower girdle facets of more than 80% will have splits/clefts in the Vs of the hearts (we call them “split hearts”). These are the hearts being rewarded by BrillianceScope. We do not believe this is a good thing. Those split hearts are an indication that the lower girdle halves have been made so long that the pavilion mains cannot achieve maximum light dispersal within the stone.

Hearts with lower girdle facets at 78%, 80% and 82%

A harmonious marriage of proportions between pavilion mains and lower girdle facets results in true hearts. These hearts have no splits in the cleft and are married to the eight pavilion arrowheads (no dead space between hearts and the pavilion arrowheads). These robust hearts indicate that the pavilions are dispersing light with maximum effect.

In A1, A2 and A3, the heart is well defined, the gap between the arrow head is distinct and clear, and the split at A3 is minimal versus F1, F2 and especially F3.

CONSUMER BEWARE, PART 2

Our sources believe that GIA’s new cut standards will reflect what has been presented in this document. They will reinforce the importance of lower girdle facets being 80% or less. There is a distinct likelihood that GIA will downgrade many diamonds with lower girdle facets over 80%. Additionally we are consulting with AGS. Diamonds with lower girdle facets >80% may be in trouble in their new system as well.

This means that if you bought a hearts & arrows diamond having lower girdle facets greater than 80% it could be DOWNGRADED a FULL GRADE if you ever have it resubmitted.

At the Basel show, before the International Cut Conference in Moscow, GIA advised people of what was going to happen in the cut grade system. That's when they said lower girdle halves longer than 80% would be downgraded. Garry Holloway alluded to this on PS before. Here is a photo from the GIA presentation:

CONCLUSION

The BrillianceScope, which rewards long lower girdle halves, is giving higher results for diamonds which may not be considered the best in GIA and AGS cut grade systems when the new cut standards are released.

This is a serious issue for BrillianceScope pundits and consumers alike. How will the people who purchased diamonds with split hearts react when they discover their diamond is now worth less, though they purchased it because of high BS returns?

Worse – what if BS returns caused a consumer to pass up a diamond with lower girdle facets <80% which will remain an ideal cut under the new system?

POST #3: GOING EVEN DEEPER: FACET “YAW”

Here is something which may pique the interest of purists: “Hot spots” talked about in BS reports can be explained by and correlated to facet “yaw” - caused by mere imprecision and “cheating” of a facet (which is not actually flat). This occurs when a facet face is polished in a direction from off-center. The face will not be flat, because the starting point (edge) is ground (polished) away “up” until the facet reaches the other side. The facet begins to yaw: One end is deeper than the other, therefore the facet is not flat anymore.

As we know, it takes a minimum of two pavilion facets, two lower girdle facets and one star facet to create the heart shape (two pavilion facets create 1 heart and 2 single sides of the next heart and so on until all the hearts are complete).

“Split hearts,” mentioned previously, are caused by lower girdle halves >80%. Though they cause a problem with light return, they can still be symmetrical. However, “yaw” sends light in unpredictable places. The result of “yaw” is poorly formed, distorted hearts, indicating a facet which is not flat and is not aligned properly with it’s opposite.

The simplest method to observe the error of “yaw” is by viewing optical symmetry with a H&A viewer.

Left: Examples of “Split Hearts.” Right: Examples of hearts with “Facet Yaw.”

CONSUMER BEWARE, PART 3

Even if a lab grades symmetry Ex/Ideal, it is only grading meet point symmetry, not overall physical symmetry. To judge a diamond's physical symmetry (large divergence of the angles, no yaw to the facets, flatness, each mirror aligning perfectly) we view its optical symmetry with the Hearts & Arrows viewer.

That being said, “hot spots” such as Rhino mentions on his BS readings can be explained if a pavilion facet has “yaw” relative to it’s opposite. The misalignment results in a focused beam of concentrated light. That brighter little shine on the machine is being read as being brighter, but that's a false reading. It’s just a spike which the BS sees. It has been termed it a “hot spot,” when it’s not truly “hot,” it’s just another manifestation of less-precise cutting.

The Holloway Cut Adviser serves the same purpose with more elegance and ease.

Choosing the “right” diamond depends on personal circumstance, philosophy and resources. No single choice is unequivocal or applicable for everyone. Diversity is humanity’s great strength and prescribes that what may be right for one does not necessarily befit another.

Two of the world’s most reputable gem labs, AGS and GIA, tested it and returned it because of its inconsistency.

About ASET

See this link for an overview

The Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool (or ASET) is used in the new AGS grading system for light performance assessment. Light performance assessment is 1 of 3 sub-grades in the overall cut grade category.

Before making summary judgments it is important to note the weighting of the ASET and the single view it offers:

Using the desktop or handheld model you see just one static view of a diamond. AGS will be allowing members to assign provisional grades with this one view, so it figures prominently into the assessment matrix, but ‘back at the lab’ there will be further paces: Ray-tracing software will calculate light return by way of the ASET model using 5 positions of the diamond relative to the observer (straight and tilted to 4 compass points). These assessments will be calculated at both 30 and 40 degrees of obscuration for a total of 10 slightly different positions/looks.

The ASET is a device that gives a color-coded map of light usage by a diamond. The two configurations are handheld and desktop.

The handheld unit is providing interesting cursory images and is useful even on mounted goods. However, a lack of standardization/consistency prevents detailed comparisons for grading purposes at this time. Therefore, my comments here pertain to the forthcoming desktop configuration, not the handheld.

The centering arm gets the diamond to its correct position and the glass platform provides automatic leveling and standardized placement – though I am curious about this placement fundamental being relative to diamonds’ tables rather than their girdles. The glass has dual anti-glare treatment on the bottom side 2mm thick and single treatment on the top. This treatment also stops UV rays. In the next few months AGS will be shipping it to many users.

(Copyright AGS 2005, used with permission)

What you see in the ASET.

Here is a good stone

Here is a bad stone

Interpreting Images

Blue areas are the dark contrast areas you observe in a diamond due to obscuration. In the ASET configuration it is intended to represent light coming from 75 degrees to 90 degrees. The amount and distribution of these areas are important. In the AGS metric well made round brilliants have about 18% blue content. A princess cut runs less than this.

Red is the most desirable color to have in the image. This is intended to be light coming from 45 to 75 degrees: It is not obscured so it is producing brightness via the most direct light.

Green light comes from the horizon to 45 degrees. It is usually reflected light and of lower quality. It should be minimized if possible with this important exclusion: Undesirable in large quantities, green is not altogether bad depending on the size and distribution of the areas in the image. It is one of two vehicles whereby brightness contrast effects are produced - the other is leakage.

Black (or white if using white backlighting) represents areas of non-reflection referred to as leakage. Depending on how you define it, this is ‘escape’ (a better scientific word than leakage) or simply non-returning facets.

(Copyright AGS 2005, used with permission)

An AGS chart showing angular spectrum images for practical combinations of crown and pavilion angles (increments of .2) for 57% table and 30 degrees obscuration. These charts are really something. It’s interesting to see where small shifts in angles become ‘breaking points’ for different light return behaviors.

This is a zoomed example of one section of the chart with 30 degrees obscuration. Tolkowsky is indicated at 40.8 because, in increments of 0.2 = 40.75 is closer to 40.8 than 40.6.

You can see a phenomenon that occurs due to table reflection dynamics between 40.7 and 40.8 PA across the board – a shift in ‘eye’ color within the table from greento red. This is interesting but insignificant.

(Copyright AGS 2005, used with permission)

Contrast is a tremendous part of the foundation of this system, and deservedly so. Identifying contrast in static views is a primary reason for going to this multi-colored system.

As an example of the difference contrast via obscuration makes, here are cosine squared images of 2 stones. They are identical, except that a 30 degrees cone of obscuration, equivalent to an observer’s head, is present in the one on the right. During total grading analysis performance at both 30% and 40% obscuration is assessed by AGS.

(Copyright AGS 2005, used with permission)

Here is a CosSq chart for 30 degrees of obscuration.

Distance

One important determination AGS had to make was that of distance selection. The foundation identifies it as designed around ‘a close viewing distance.’ This distance is 25 cm (just short of 10”), which was chosen for many reasons having to do with standardization in other visual fields and physical/optical properties of human vision (the near point of accommodation for typical humans over age 40 moves to >20 cm).

Also key was the fact that the ability to discern cut quality decreases with distance. Most importantly, the effect of the observer’s head decreases with distance – and a stone of fine make next to a stone of inferior make are much closer in appearance without obscuration providing contrast.

Even without those reasons, it seems practical to me. If you notice a sparkly diamond and ask someone to show it to you I would suspect that the general tendency is to view it at about 10 inches away - perhaps just slightly closer or further (depending on your eyesight and how well you know the person).

The point has been made that this is not a metric for every possible distance, environment, etc. However, AGS is representing it as a practical baseline.

The above info is intended in reference to the standardized desktop ASET,
Below: is the handheld version of the ASET along with light tray

Using it without the light tray but with background lighting

The Evolution of the Round Brilliant Diamond

The Evolution of the Round Brilliant Diamond

1650: Cardinal Mazarin designed the first cross-cut diamond, which was the beginning of the brilliant style of cutting. In the early 1700s the Portuguese diamond cutter Peruzzi refined the first 58 facet brilliant cut. This style slowly evolved throughout the 1800s, known first as the old-mine cut and later as the old-European cut. These cuts still followed the contours of the rough diamond in order to retain as much weight as possible.

1860: Henry Morse opens a diamond cutting firm in Boston. By 1880 he is recutting traditional old-European cut diamonds without regard for weight loss to produce the most beautiful round brilliant of his time.

1919: Marcel Tolkowsky’s brilliant cut emerges along with his published thesis. This work becomes the standard by which future cuts of the round brilliant, including the American Ideal Cut are fashioned.

1930: Lazare Kaplan (First cousin to M. Tolkowsky) begins cutting diamonds to Tolkowsky ideal proportions.

1931-34: Robert Shipley, the educator who popularized gemology in America, founds the GIA and the AGS.

1939: GIA launch the Gem Trade Laboratories (GTL) issuing diamond certificates for color, clarity & carat weight which are still used today (pending the 2005 GIA grading system).

1946: Robert Shipley makes the distinction between brilliance and scintillation in the GIA course material.

1953: Richard T. Liddicoat develops and refines a complete grading system for diamonds that include a system for evaluating cut.

1955: The AGS Diamond Standards Committee is established.

1960's: AGS develops 0-10 scale for grading diamond cut and produces the Diamond Grading Standards manual. It undergoes many revisions over the next 30 years.

1996: AGS Laboratories open and begin grading, including cut grading for the round brilliant.

2005: AGS Laboratories begins cut grading princess cuts as well as rounds and updates their system to performance-based grading.

2005: (forthcoming) GIA laboratories updates their grading system for rounds to include cut grading.

The Evolution of the Super-Ideal

In the 1970s and 80s Japanese gemologists and scientists became engaged in micro-studies of diamond cut. Kazumi Okuda, contracted by Tsuyoshi Shigetomi of Tokyo, developed tools for research which used colored reflectors. One of these reflector tools eventually became the Firescope, which permitted a display of the optical performance of all 57 facets of the round brilliant. Since that time, the Gilbertson-scope, Ideal-scope, ASET and others have evolved and serve similar purposes in the analysis of light performance.

In the late 1980s, after years of research using the Firescope, a cutter named Kioyishi Higuchi produced the first Eightstar diamond in Japan for a businessman named Takanori Tamura.

In the early 1990s, after continuing research, the Hearts & Arrows viewer is developed. Somewhat different than the Firescope, this device allows the viewer to analyze the physical cut symmetry and alignment of facets in both the pavilion and crown of a diamond. Shortly thereafter, the first ‘Hearts & Arrows’ diamond was produced in Japan.

In the 1990s Super Ideal cuts reached America. Since that time standards for precision patterning have continued to evolve with developing technologies and improved tools.

The round brilliant diamond has been around for several hundred years but the precision patterning found in Super Ideal diamonds has been possible for less than 20.

What’s so Super about Super Ideal?

Super Ideals are all about maximized performance. The broad strokes include crown and pavilion angles close to Tolkowsky’s - still considered the best for a round brilliant. This is where most “Ideal” cut diamonds stop. Super Ideals go even deeper. Modern tooling and extra time spent eventually result in precise three-dimensional optical symmetry, where every adamantine facet is brought into optimum alignment with its opposite. This means that all of the ‘mirrors’ are precisely, kaleidoscopically brought into their most effective position.

Going even deeper, there are some Super Ideals where seldom-discussed minor facets (lower girdles and stars) are shaped to specific proportions: The precise length and width relationships of these tiny mirrors can be harmonized for dynamic performance through the broadest range of lighting conditions.

This level of fine-tuning is a result of world-class cutters marrying old-world knowledge with new-world technology in pursuit of maximum performance in a diamond.

Poor Marketing

Marketing of Super Ideals was driven by symbolism rather than performance when they were introduced in America. Much of that continues to this day due to origins, and the fact that the public-at-large does not have a command of diamond knowledge necessary to understand the optical benefits of patterning.

The symbolism is tracable back to Eightstar diamonds in Japan. The arrows pattern was seen as both the octagram of the I Ching and the Rinbo of Buddhism. It was said that the pattern bore a resemblance to the eight-spoked wheel of dharma, associated with spiritual perfection in the Buddhist faith. From that standpoint this pattern, and the subsequent Hearts & Arrows pattern that evolved, are products of a quest for perfection in precision and beauty in a diamond. Not everyone considers the patterns to have symbolism, but there is a great deal of importance placed on them in other cultures. Many of the engagement rings sold in Japan are Hearts & Arrows.

Logically, when precision patterning reached America the emphasis on symbolism had already established itself in the minds (and cultures) of the makers. As a result, marketing efforts played up the “cute” aspect of neat little Hearts & Arrows. That approach continues in the mainstream to this day… And why not? When was the last time you walked into a traditional jewelry store and the salesman discussed Tolkowsky proportions and patterning? The public at-large does not know the difference between a diamond with a nice 40.8 PA or an undesirable 41.3, and that is a merely a surface aspect.

Therefore, mass-marketing of precision patterning still relies on the “cute H&A” moniker for the present.

Performance

Any round cut for optimum light return should have a robust balance in its light return. The benefits of patterning depend largely on lighting conditions and surroundings.

Almost any diamond will perform well in direct light, particularly the spotlighting you see in common jewelry stores. You see much brilliance (WLR) and dispersion (fire, DCLR, or chromatic/colored flashes) as well. The balance of these depends on the cut, but since so much light is entering and exiting the stone the 'fine-tuning' of what you see does not impact your eye as much as the sheer 'volume' does.

Well patterned diamonds begin to separate themselves in diffuse light. A cloudy day or an office with fluorescent lights is typically an environment in which you will see less dispersion (fire or DCLR). Well-cut diamonds return white light well, so the diamond can appear very bright, but the amount of fire you will see is often muted in this lighting condition. Scintillation is also muted in diffuse light, but a diamond with great patterning has more elements of DCLR through a normal range of tilt (AGS calls this dynamic fire) due to optimization & contrast.

Soft light, such as candlelight, lantern, computer monitor in a dark room, or many small distant light sources, is where precision patterning in a diamond really stands out. When alignment of the facets is optimized and minor facet construction is of a design that is well-balanced these diamonds maximize the return of all available light they are taking in. These are the sparklers in which you will see broad flashes from a diamond on someone's finger across a restaurant in candlelight. It’s a logical result of all of the facets, the mirrors inside the diamond, working in harmony.

Value

Those who have made an informed decision to buy a H&A diamond will say they are worth the premium – and that they see the subtle differences outlined here.

Those who have made an informed decision not to buy a H&A diamond will say they are not worth it - and that they do not see the subtle differences outlined here.

‘Experts’ fall on both sides of the line.

It comes down to a matter of perception, personal taste and values. On a casual level any diamond that is well-cut is going to be wonderful, plain and simple. Among the millions of diamonds walking the globe you may rarely compare or care about the fractional optimization or ‘subtle insight’ of precision patterning.

I am writing from my own experiences. I began as a consumer searching for a diamond. To make a long story short, I searched malls and specialty shops and eventually had the opportunity to compare non-ideal, ideal and super ideal side by side for many hours. As a consumer the differences I have outlined above were clear to me.

Four years after my consumer journey I joined the trade. Now, as I work among hundreds of these diamonds and study minute differences in patterning & minor facet construction, the distinctions stand out even more to me.

There's no stress: Couple weds at Taco Bell

Mon, 23 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Wedding bells meant Taco Bell for Paul and Caragh Brooks.

Customers inside the fast-food restaurant continued to order tacos and burritos as the couple sat Friday in an orange booth at Taco Bell and exchanged vows.

"It's appropriate," groom Paul Brooks said. "It's an offbeat relationship."

Employees displayed hot sauce packets labeled with the words "Will you marry me?" They decorated the restaurant with streamers and balloons.

The bride wore a $15 hot pink dress and the entire wedding cost about $200. Several dozen guests looked on as the couple's friend, Ryan Green of Normal, administered the vows while wearing a T-shirt. He was ordained online.

"This is the way to go — there's no stress," said the groom's mother, Kathy Brooks.

Caragh Brooks, 21, of Australia, met Paul Brooks, 30, on an Internet dating Web site. They already had the same last name.

The couple wrote back and forth and talked on the phone for nine months before Caragh Brooks moved to the United States.

"We have the same brain, just in two bodies," Paul Brooks said. "We think alike in virtually every manner. We have the same interests, viewpoints."

He proposed on New Year's Eve and, because they like to spend time at the local Taco Bell, they decided to wed there.

"I would never have expected in my life in working here there would be a wedding," restaurant manager Carl Hamlow said.

How To Tell If Your diamond engagement ring or diamond jewelry Is A Non-Conflict Diamond.

Mon, 05 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

You are looking for a diamond with a good cause. You're a diamond lover. You've got countless pieces of jewelry studded with diamonds. You are looking to find an engagement ring with the right cause. You are one of those people who just can't resist the glitter and brilliance that goes with a diamond. Then you learn about the existence of blood diamonds. Your world is suddenly turned upside down.

That may be a satiric narrative but the subject is dead serious. Blood diamonds are used to fund wars and other brutal activities in certain parts of the world. Diamonds sold in this illicit trade promote violence and kill people; you want to make sure that your own non conflict diamonds.

Many sectors emphasize the difference between "clean" diamonds, often called non conflict diamonds and "blood diamonds". Even the UN General Assembly was quick to point out that diamonds mined and sold legally help the economy and promote prosperity in certain parts of Africa. In a resolution made in December 2000, they were also emphatic in stating that the sale of blood diamonds only brings about pain and suffering. That is why restrictions and standards have been put in place to differentiate non conflict diamonds from the blood diamonds.

Non Conflict Diamond Detection Points

The useful question would then be: How do I know if a diamond is a conflict diamond or a conflict free diamond? For practical purposes, the answer would really be: "There is no absolute way you can tell, especially if the diamond has already been polished." Difficult? Sure.
This is challenging if you want to know whether or not the diamond you already own is "tainted". However, there are still some precautionary measures which are in place and which you can take in order to avoid purchasing a conflict diamond. First of all, the international community has established a system wherein a "Certificate of Origin" is required. There are known areas from where blood diamonds originate. With these certificates, you can have a way of knowing the origin of the diamond. Of course, certificates can and have been forged. Stricter measures and even stricter implementation is needed in order for this system to work efficiently.

In addition to “Certificate of Origin”, some countries have set up their own measures in order to ensure that blood diamonds are not released in their markets. Amnesty International advise is asking four questions when you are out shopping for diamonds. First, ask the salespeople how you can be sure that what they are selling are non conflict diamonds. Second, ask them if they know where their diamonds come from. Third, ask for the company policy on purchasing diamonds. Fourth, ask if they can show you a written guarantee from their suppliers. Most likely if they are unwilling to help you out with your questions, they might have something to hide. They might be unable to answer you simply because they themselves do not have assurances as to the nature of their goods. Additionally, the jewelry company may not have educated their sales people on what conflict diamonds are about. In such instances, Amnesty suggests that you go some place else.

These questions should give you assurances that you purchase only non conflict diamonds. Unless everyone from source to manufacturer educates and cooperates and there is international transparency, there are still chances that some blood diamonds may get through.

Engagement Rings: 6 Engagement Ring Trends

Mon, 08 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Ring designers clued us in to the hottest new engagement ring styles. A simple solitaire may be a classic (and safe) choice, but you're sure to please with these over-the-top dazzlers.

From left to right: Ricardo Basta $7,000; Amgad: $22,500; Peter Norman & Co, $28,850; Adria de Haume, $32,000

Trend #1: Neutral-colored Gems

Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck's relationship might not have lasted, but the lure of colored engagement rings sure did. Her 6.1-carat pink diamond engagement ring set the stage for a bevy of other colorful gemstones like beryl, sapphires, and rubies to take a leading role.

> See more colored stones

From left to right: Hearts on Fire, $6,500; Precision Set, $8,450, and band, $3,440; Diamond Ideals, $2,250, not including center stone; South African Diamonds Private Collection, starting at $8,500

Trend #2: Diamonds All Around

A gorgeous diamond gets lots of character from its surroundings. And these current styles drizzled with diamonds are definitely a hit among brides and designers alike. Not only do the extra diamonds add tons of sparkle, but they can enhance the size or at least give the illusion of a larger center stone. What bride-to-be (and groom too) wouldn't love that?

> See more rings with multiple stones

From left to right: Tiffany and Co., $48,200, and band, starting at $2,475; Art Carved, $1,879, and band, $1,535, not including center stone; Diana Classic, $1,899, and band, $345; RhondaFaberGreen, $7,855

Trend #3: Intricately Raised Settings

The newest ring settings are really raising the bar -- elaborate and (more important) lofty designs are hot. There's nothing like a delicately draped bow or precision-cut mold to give your center stone the spotlight.

> See more diamond rings

From left to right: Mercury Ring, $2,495, not including center stone; Mark Schneider Designs, $2,975; Diaco Diamonds, $6,550; Novell, $2,200, not including center stone

Trend #4: Twisted Bands

Designers have opted to put a little more swing in their rings. From swirling diamond bands to more streamlined metal twists, we're enamored with this smooth move.

> See more modern ring styles

From left to right: OGI, $1,450, not including center stone; Whiteflash.com, $3,500; Gary Ptak, $13,700; VAN CRAEYNEST for Clay-pot.com, $3,285

Trend #5: Vintage Glamour

Heirloom styles, though rich in history, are definitely not a tired idea. Think intricate settings with metal and diamond detailing.

> See more vintage ring styles

From left to right: Brilliant Earth, $5,500; greenKarat, $3,275; Bailey, Banks & Biddle, $6,900; Earthwise Jewelry by Leber Jewelry Inc., starts at $6,550

Trend #6: Eco-friendly Rings

These dazzling designers prove that it's hip to have more than just a green thumb. Decorate your ring finger with conflict-free diamonds and recycled gold settings.

> Learn more about eco-friendly rings

AWEAR featured in Seventeen Magazine.

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Awear, Whiteflash's diamond charm necklace 'Dreams of Africa' in Seventeen Magazine - Dress-Up Freebies! Be the hottest girl at the party! Visit www.seventeen.com in December to win a whole new look. Starting on December 1, log on to www.seventeen.com /freebies daily and type in the Freebie Phrase of the day to be eligible to win that day's prize.But hurry--- each Freebie will be live for just 24 hours, beginning at 12 a.m. EST. Winners will be posted on line the next weekday by 10 a.m. EST.

Miley Cyrus glams up with Whiteflash's Fashion Jewelry

Wed, 08 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Miley Cyrus chose to wear a stunning and edgy diamond cuff bracelet from WhiteFlash.com’s custom line while introducing singer Pink’s performance. The bold 18K white gold 9-row diamond bracelet with 9.23ct of diamonds rang in at an impressive $14,675. The piece inlcuded Whiteflash's top of the line diamonds, Whiteflash ACA and accentuated what was a big night for Cyrus because she was nominated for her first VMA.

Whiteflash featured in Fine Jewelry News

Mon, 06 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Whiteflash's conscious kids collection, Awear, introduced this year as a way to wear fun jewelry charms while donating to a charity that builds a school for children impacted in war torn areas around the world.

Sold exclusively at WhiteFlash.com, the AWEAR line of trendy and classic diamond charm pendants retail from $250 to $1,500, making them ideal gifts for a birthday, graduation, Bat Mitzvah, first communion, confirmation or any other meaningful occasion when a child first learns that the future belongs to her… and that you hope she’ll take care of what challenges life brings for her and the world around her.

The Nest Article: Instant Expert: Upgrading your Engagement Ring

Thu, 07 Aug 2008 00:00:00 GMT

thenest.com, 6/3/08

Instant Expert: Upgrading Your Engagement Ring

We know you’d be happy with a twist tie as long as you’re married to Mr. Right, but if your engagement ring isn’t the fairy-tale bauble you’ve always dreamed of, consider trading up.

Why upgrade?

Trading in your rock has become more popular than ever—from stone swapping to adding more bling to your existing ring. “The trend with young adults is that they’ll get a $10,000 ring, and a few years later, they’ll want it to be larger,” explains Debi Wexler of whiteflash.com. “It’s a way of showing their appreciation for the longevity of the relationship.”

Here’s why many choose to upgrade

* Size: You love the shape of your diamond, but you came down with DSS (Diamond Shrinkage Syndrome). The more you look at it, the, uh, smaller it seems to get.

* Style: Your mate chose a pear-shaped cut in a gold setting, but you’ve always had your heart set on a princess cut in a platinum setting. Let’s face it: you’re not sporting “The Rachel” haircut anymore, right? Why not wear a ring that reflects your style?

* Stones: You’d love to add more stones to your original ring to amp up the sparkle.

* Setting: You were given an heirloom from one of your or his relatives that you want to reset or turn into a necklace or keepsake. Now you’d rather have a more modern, everyday ring that reflects your individuality and doesn’t feel like the old “family stone.”

Work with your original jeweler

Before you even think about upgrading your ring, find out what your jeweler’s policy is. It can vary: for example, whiteflash.com offers a lifetime policy on their branded diamonds, which allows you to trade them in for the full value you paid; Tacori applies a percentage of credit (usually around 75 percent) toward purchasing a new ring; and De Beers will upgrade your ring depending on an on-site appraisal of its current value.

Also, factor in setting costs. An upgrade from a 1.5-carat to a 2-carat won’t fit into your original setting, so you’ll need to get a new one, which will increase the price of your upgrade. You don’t have to toss the original setting, though; consider putting a colored stone in it for a right-hand ring.

Brush up on the basics

Here are the top things to remember when you trade in your ice:

* Cut: Keep in mind that round and princess cuts are easier to upgrade than fancier cuts like radiant, pear, or cushion.

* Quality: A higher-quality diamond is more likely to receive a higher upgrade value. Your diamond should be in the same condition as when you received it.

* Certification: Certified diamonds (AGS or GIA) are more easily upgraded than non-certified diamonds. Always ask to see the certification for the new diamond.

Get more bling yor your buck

There are some sneaky ways to squeeze the most value out of your upgrade:

* Don’t round up: Going from a 1-carat to a 1.9-carat is cheaper than going to a 2-carat, but you can’t tell the difference visually.

* Skimp on clarity and color: You might assume that the four Cs are all of equal weight, but that’s not the case. Clarity and color aren’t as important as cut or carat when it comes to making a visible difference.

* Go online: You can often get better deals from online discount jewelry retailers like bluenile.com, goldspeed.com, and ice.com; these sites are ranked among the top online jewelry retailers by internetretailer.com.

* Buy used or estate jewelry: Search for estate sales in your area and frequent the classified section of the newspaper for deals.

* Shop overseas: Take a second honeymoon to the Bahamas, Cayman islands, or Mexico, and save 40 to 60 percent on new jewelry.

Weigh the sentimental factor

Not willing to part with your original rock? Consider these options:

* Try a past, present, and future ring: You can place the upgraded stone in the middle (which represents the present) and have two other smaller stones set on the outside (to represent the past and future).

* Reuse a portion of the ring: Take your original stone(s) and have them remounted as earrings or a pendant.

* Keep the original setting: If the size difference isn’t significant, you may still be able to replace the diamond without affecting your original setting.

* Add anniversary bands instead: If the idea of altering your diamond in any way leaves you uneasy, take a different route altogether by adding stackable diamond bands.

Insure your new ring

Whether you insured your first ring or not, now’s the time to cover your new assets:

* Get appraised: If you’ve added value to an existing ring or purchased a new one, you need a new appraisal (from a certified gemologist or your jeweler) in order to update your existing insurance policy.

* Secure a rider: Ring insurance is best purchased as an extension (typically referred to as a “rider”) to add on to your renters or homeowners policy. You must provide all your receipts and an appraisal.

Questions to ask

* Is the ring covered if you lose it accidentally, or only if it’s stolen?

* How will the company replace the ring?

* Is the ring insured to its full value?

* How will you need to prove that the ring vanished if you make a claim?

thenest.com, 6/3/08

WhiteFlash.com Reaches Big “O” Status in July

Thursday, July 08, 2008

Hot on the pages of Oprah’s O Magazine July 2008 issue is a stunning diamond cuff bracelet by online jewelry sensation WhiteFlash.com.

Wearing the bold piece in the July feature story “Hello, Sexy!” was Judson O’Hair (page 196) a 41 year old technology sales executive who has admitted to loosing her sensual edge when it comes to style. The captivating feature story redefines the meaning of phrase inherently sexy by transforming 4 everyday working women’s looks and uncovering their hidden inner bombshell.

Known for featuring wearable and transitional stylish accessories and fashions, Oprah’s O Magazine hit the mark by selecting the show-stopping cuff for Judson to wear in her final “reveal” when she transformed from everyday mousey into seductive red carpet diva. Featuring 10 carats of stunning bezel set Whiteflash ACA diamonds in a slinky fabric like 18K white gold cuff, the bracelet typified her new found fearlessly bold inner self. 162 Diamonds adorn this lovely bracelet.

No stranger to helping to create red carpet looks for Hollywood’s trendsetting divas, WhiteFlash.com has dressed many notable celebrities such as Jessica Alba, Jessica Simpson, Elizabeth Banks, Lindsay Lohan, Gina Davis and Adrianne Curry.

For more versatile and unique styles to transform your look, visit www.WhiteFlash.com.

BBB Winner Third Time winning is a Charm for Whiteflash

Sun, 06 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Early in May, 2008 Better Business Bureau Education Foundation honored BBB Accredited companies that maintain a superior commitment to ethics, overall excellence, and quality in the workplace. This event was held at the '2008 Awards for Excellence' luncheon held at the InterContinental Hotel in Downtown Houston.

Year-round, The Better Business Bureau otherwise known as the 'BBB' recognizes commendable businesses in the community and helps consumers know who to trust and patronize.

Whiteflash.com has been awarded a Houston Better Business Bureau "Winner of Distinction" for the third consecutive year. Superior quality and unsurpassable customer service are the two business principles at Whiteflash.com for continued success. Whiteflash.com is an on-line boutique for engagement rings, anniversary bands and custom design jewelry. Several generations deep full of experienced staff will guarantee clients a brilliant diamond buying experience.

The on-line diamond boutique, hailed by Kiplinger’s Financial Magazine as “Lord of the Online Rings,” has partnered with Fox, Lionsgate and others for high-end promotions. Whiteflash has also been featured in the Chicago Tribune, Smart Money, and worn by such fashion celebrities, Chloe Sivegney, Ciera, Gina Davis and Jessica Alba. Recently they introduced their new line of jewelry geared towards children called 'Awear' - jewelry for conscience kids. This new product line offered an even more affordable pricerange to their Dreams of Africa jewlery line where they donate 25% of the profits to the non-profit organization, World Centers of Compassion for Children International. Whiteflash has a responsibility not only to serve their clients, but to create continued awareness and responsibility of supporting the diamond trade in a way that is a win for all who touch the lives of those they love.

Brides Magazine Summer Edition – How to get a look that’s totally you wearing Whiteflash ACA Drop Earrings

Thu, 03 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Attention all brides – beauty class is in session. Today’s topic besides wedding make –up is what drop diamond earrings to wear that don’t break the bank. Brides Magazine well known for young upcoming Brides looking for affordable luxury. Here is a great pair of drop earings with Whiteflash ACA diamonds for an excellent value.

Couple Sparkles in Whiteflash All Over Their Destination Wedding

Sun, 29 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Couple Sparkles in Whiteflash All Over their Wedding in this summer's issue of Destination Wedding Magazine

The Summer Issue of Destination Weddings doesn't hesitate to show of some of the best in fashionable wedding jewelry at Whiteflash. Take a look at our Diamond Web Necklace and gorgeous golden cuffs on the women featured in this summer issue. For Destination Weddings, answering questions of where to go and what to wear is essential. This premier bridal magazine picked Whiteflash's fashionable jewelry line with beautiful Whiteflash ACA Diamonds to show off some of the most beautiful brides to be this summer. Take a look at some of the pictures and you will see what we mean.

Whiteflash pizzazes ZINK Magazine with a beautiful cocktail ring

Wed, 16 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

The Whiteflash Design known world wide for it’s champagne line of jewelry graces the inside of Zink magazine.Over 6 carats of pink sapphire and 100s of Whiteflash ACA Melee go into this handcrafted piece worn by Joann in this months issue of ZINK Magazine. Heavy Platinum is the metal of choice on this beauiful champagne inspired right hand ring.

Buying Whiteflash Bling in San Diego Weddings

Mon, 07 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT

White gold or yellow? Titanium or Palladium? The spring/summer edition of Weddings San Diego educates and helps you choose. Pictured inside is a custom princess-cut diamond between two sapphires set in white gold. Most rings are 14-18 karat. For yellow gold, the price comes down versus platinum. Fair skinned people may not like how yellow gold looks on them, but color gold looks fantastic on olive or darker toned skin. Try this yellow gold and diamond creation setting from Whiteflash.com -- We can custom make this setting for you.

Whiteflash inside Wedding Dresses Annual Style Issue

Wed, 16 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

This month marked the anticipated release of Wedding Dresses annual Official Bridal Style Guide. Whiteflash was invited to showcase one of its most stunning wedding bands, the Rhapsody Pave Wedding Band ($1,995). It glistens in 18kt white gold and .50 carats in diamonds and would make any bride sparkle on her

A Better Bling

Mon, 24 Mar 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Gold may glitter and Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but there’s more to jewelry than meets the eye – especially when it comes to the environment and human rights.

Body + Soul, http://www.body+soul.com/ presents Dreams of Africa™, http://www.dreamsofafrica.org/ an initiative of Whiteflash.com to provide an outlet to create awareness of conflict diamonds. Body + Soul unearthed the truth about metals and gems, and found sustainable alternatives that really sparkle, including Whiteflash’s Dreams of Africa™ pendant.

Geena Davis and Debra Messing and many others are ambassadors to this lovely cause. Whiteflash's executed the design development of Dreams Of Africa™. This line of jewelry was created in order to raise awareness for and bring financial relief to African children, particularly those affected by the illicit trade of rough diamonds.

Click on http://www.dreamsofafrica.org/ for more information on Whiteflash's initiative on conflict diamonds and the Kimberly Process.

Click on www.WCCCI.org to find out more about Whiteflash's alliance with the organization selected to receive a percentage of profits on sales from our Dreams of Africa™ line of jewelry.

Why Sarin and Lab Report Numbers don’t always Match

Numbers may differe slightly among devices used to measure diamonds. This is the nature of instrumentation; none is perfect, only more or less precise and accurate. Fortunately, differences are so slight that they are insignificant in human terms.

Official Numbers

Because of their independence and consistency we consider the diamond’s laboratory report to be the “document of authority.”

Sarin Error

Non-contact scanners like Sarin, Ogi and Helium have a given error. Sarin’s error is ± 0.2 degrees angular and 2.0% linear. When properly calibrated and maintained our onsite reports and laboratory grading reports are consistently within this range, if not closer. If a discrepancy occurs we consider the lab grading report the document of authority (see the below regarding GIA rounding).

GIA Rounding Policy

Our Sarin report may be more technically accurate than GIA reports. This is because the GIA rounds several numbers on their grading reports: Crown angle is rounded to the nearest 0.5 degree. Pavilion angle to the nearest 0.2 degree. Star and lower halves are rounded to the nearest 5%. In deference to the GIA as an institution, we still consider the lab report the document of authority.

Carat Weight

The Federal Trade Commision requires diamonds be weighed to the tenth of a carat but most major labs report to the hundredth of a carat. The AGS actually weighs diamonds to the thousandth of a carat but there is a limit to repeatability and accuracy at three decimal places: Even variations in elevation (which increases the distance from the center of the earth) and in latitude (due to slight error caused by the centrifugal force of the earth spinning) will influence measurements, scale to scale, at this level.

More Information

GIA Research Article on Measurement Tolerances

http://www.diamonds.net/news/NewsItem.aspx?ArticleID=11815

Whiteflash ACA and BrillianceScope

We are sometimes asked how Whiteflash ACA diamonds perform on machines used by merchants as selling aids. The most popular of these is Brilliancescope; in use by several mall jewelry chain stores.

* How do Whiteflash ACA diamonds perform on GemEx’s BrillianceScope?

They achieve the highest ratings. We had the BrillianceScope at Whiteflash for a trial period and measured 50 diamonds. The results were ideal, and we enjoyed analyzing the machine.

[ Click to see reports for all 50 diamonds measured in the trial.]

* Why don’t you use it now?

BrillianceScope was invented as a selling tool (link) for commercial jewelry chains. As tempting as the use of such tools may be, we use only lab-approved methods that don't require a subscription fee. Experts at both major labs and members of the science community have tested and rejected BrillianceScope. Although our diamonds earn its highest ratings, we endorse only tools developed for science and respected by leaders in the trade.

* Should I base decisions on GemEx?

Your eyes are more reliable. Diamonds of equal appeal score differently on BrillianceScope according to what fits the programmed mechanical metric. The most attractive diamond for you may not return the ‘highest’ score. In that sense BrillianceScope is a beauty contest with judges who may not agree with your tastes. We found that it will separate high performers from average performers, but it cannot be used to make decisions between closely-matched diamonds.

* What about ISEE2 and Imagem?

These devices also favor a specific ‘look’ according to their programming. A diamond run on all three machines can return different results.

* Do you condemn use of BrillianceScope?

No. We don't condemn ISEE2 or Imagem either. We are willing to send our diamonds to independent appraisers who use such machines in-context, not as selling aids.

* What do you recommend to demonstrate light performance?

Since the 1980s reflector images showing angular spectrum (ASET) have been used as indicators of performance quality. They are natural, objective, standardized, and in-use by the strictest cut-grading lab and the most qualified professional appraisers in the country. The American Gem Society's Ideal cut grade is based on ASET; developed for science by research gemologists.

Whiteflash ACA Quality

Top performance is a function of the Whiteflash ACA brand. Every Whiteflash ACA is cut on the same factory floor to a strict range of measurements at the heart of the most proven performance parameters. Upon arrival at Whiteflash they are required to pass their designer’s personal evaluation and inspection for highest levels of diamond beauty. We use the world’s most advanced grading laboratory, complete measurement reports and tools endorsed by proven science to confirm them as top performers. Every ACA must earn the ‘Ideal’ grade in light performance, proportions & finish. Whiteflash's demanding personal requirements eclipse even their AGS pedigree.

Every Whiteflash ACA diamond is well within the top 1% of the world’s cut quality thanks to the strict controls in place at Whiteflash. Another machine would be redundant and add cost to our clients’ purchases.

In the future we may adopt further trade-endorsed methods to demonstrate light performance. For now, our philosophy is to use accepted science to determine overall performance. Reputable authorities concur: Human experts are better equipped to assist clients with decisions of taste. This philosophy is how we have set the standard in our market.

Digging for Whiteflash Treasure

Screams pierced the air as finalists were chosen to “Dig for Diamonds” inside wedding cakes, as part of a radio promotion celebrating The Wedding Bells, a new FOX series from producer David E. Kelley.

Dressed in veils and nuptial white T-shirts, hundreds of diamond seekers gathered in 30 cities across the USA for the opportunity to find rings inside wedding cakes. 35 exquisite rings, including a three carat masterpiece from Whiteflash's signature line of visually balanced Whiteflash ACA diamonds, were provided by online boutique Whiteflash.com, the exclusive jewelry partner of FOX’s The Wedding Bells “Dig for Diamonds” promotion.

Hopeful contestants received veils, shirts, gifts and sealed bridal “invitations” on a first-come, first-served basis. Sponsors and radio personalities at event sites provided refreshments and entertainment to the gathering crowds until it was time for the ladies-in-waiting (and even some veiled gentlemen) to open the envelopes.

The excited finalists lined up behind wedding cakes and, with onlookers shouting encouragement, dug enthusiastically to see who would claim the ultimate prize. Cheers erupted for each site's winner, who received a diamond engagement ring valued at over $5000. Other finalists received gifts from event sponsors.

Scenes from the Dallas, Texas, “Dig for Diamonds” promotion, hosted by 106.1 Kiss-FM (KHKS) and Cruz.

The new series, from the acclaimed producers of Ally McBeal, Boston Legal and The Practice, is a romantic ‘dramedy’ about a family-owned wedding planning business. The Wedding Bells will air on FOX Fridays at 9/8c.

About Whiteflash.com

Whiteflash.com is the first company in the U.S. to offer an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur, founded Whiteflash.com in 1999 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows diamonds. Whiteflash ACA is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. Whiteflash.com also offers original, handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands and custom designed jewelry. For more information, log on to www.whiteflash.com or call 877.612.6770.

Path to ring may take you online - Chicago Tribune

From the Chicago Tribune, February 14, 2007

By Tara Swords
Special to the Tribune
Published February 14, 2007

Internet offers opportunities to customize a customary piece of jewelry

For all of the ways couples today change up wedding customs, one tradition that remains popular is the diamond engagement ring. But thanks to the Internet, couples can inject a bit of individuality into the tradition by custom-designing their own engagement rings online.

("Champaigne Pave" design. Currently available in 950 platinum.)

"Everybody's motivation with the engagement ring is to make something special," says John Pollard, director of education at online custom jeweler Whiteflash.com. "Customization is a way to send an additional symbolic message that [says] not only is this diamond special, but I put my heart and soul into creating this setting for you as well."

Custom settings tend to be more expensive than stock settings because they require extra work. But online jewelers often undersell larger retailers on diamonds because they don't have a bricks-and-mortar presence to support, says Sucharita Mulpuru, senior analyst at Forrester Research.

Plus, many online vendors compete to sell the exact same diamonds from the same wholesalers, and that competition drives down prices. So for the same budget, a customer can go to a local jeweler to get a cheaper stock setting and pricier diamond, or go online to get a more affordable diamond with a pricier but unique setting.

Also, someone who likes the look of a designer ring -- a distinctive style from Tiffany, perhaps -- can avoid shelling out money for the designer markup by asking an online jeweler to custom-create a similar style.

("Trapped Emerald," a collector's piece including 2.67 ct emerald cut diamond in platinum setting with two trapezoid diamonds of 0.60 ct apc., princess cut diamonds of 0.40 ctw and 1.3 mm Whiteflash ACA melee on the sides, priced at $39,000)

Customizing online isn't for everybody, though. For example, someone who wants a simple solitaire setting can get it for a few hundred dollars online or at a local jewelry store. But custom settings tend to start at a higher price point -- typically around $1,500, says Mark Turnowski, president of New York-based EngagementRingsDirect.com. Another problem for some shoppers is that they may not be able to see their custom creation in person until it's finished and shipped to their door -- and at that point, it's possibly too late for a refund.

Mulpuru says despite the drawbacks, consumers are eating up online customization of jewelry and other items.

"We're tasting bits of it in other parts of retail, like the ability to customize your own shoes on Nike.com," Mulpuru says. "Consumers respond extremely enthusiastically to the ability to create something special. The Internet is made for that," especially with big-ticket items such as diamond rings, Mulpuru says.

Online ring customization sounded great to Donna Switzer, 41, of Haverhill, Mass., and her fiance. Her ring was customized after she e-mailed online jeweler Whiteflash.com photos of several other rings she had seen in stores and on Web sites.

"I couldn't go with any of the prefab settings to get the look I wanted," Switzer says. "I said, Here's a picture of something I like about this ring, here's what I like about that ring, and here's what I like about the prongs on that ring -- make those all go together for me."

(Custom design for Whiteflash client)

Switzer was e-mailed photos of a wax mold of her ring before it was made in metal and set with diamonds. That gave her peace of mind that she and the online jeweler had communicated to achieve the right look.

"As long as you can communicate clearly, I don't think it matters whether you sit across the table with them" or work over the computer, Switzer says. "Even though we'd never met face to face, it was just like working with my local jeweler."

Tips to keep in mind on a custom ring quest

If you think you'd like to custom-design an engagement ring online, follow these tips to help you get the most value -- and the exact ring you dream of.

("Pizzazz," a collector's piece set in platinum with a 6.02 ct pink sapphire, priced at $36,500.)

Get creative

If you can imagine it, you can probably create it. You can design a ring based on your grandmother's antique ring but with a modern twist or use sapphires instead of diamonds. Maybe you'd like to create a ring that borrows elements from four other rings. Or you can design something inspired by a celebrity's ring you saw in People magazine.

But if you fall in love with a Tiffany ring, don't expect to be able to create an exact copy. Most custom jewelers are careful not to infringe on other designers' trademarks, so it's necessary to make a ring sufficiently different from its original inspiration.

"If their heart is set on a piece by a certain designer, they really need to go ahead and get that piece," says Whiteflash.com's John Pollard.

"But you can only copyright a circle to a certain degree. So if somebody has a setting in mind and would like something that has tangible differences, they can submit their ideas. If it's not different enough, our jewelers will make some suggestions so it's not infringing on anybody else's intellectual property."

Know what you're buying

Don't trust that the online jeweler is envisioning the same ring you are. Make sure the jeweler will e-mail you a computer-aided design (CAD) file, sketch or photo of a wax mold of the ring you've designed. But be aware that as soon as you approve the drawing or wax, you'll probably be charged for later changes.

Also, most online jewelers don't offer refunds for custom settings after they're crafted.

Find out whether the jeweler offers a lifetime trade-up policy. Some online vendors will gladly take their diamonds back in stock and credit you the value of the diamond if you want to buy a more expensive stone later. But be aware that custom settings are generally made to fit a specific stone, so a new diamond could require a new setting.

Finally, if you want to avoid purchasing diamonds that finance global conflicts -- a popular wish in the wake of last year's movie "Blood Diamond" -- ask the online jeweler whether its suppliers are compliant with the Kimberley Process, an international certification system that aims to keep such diamonds off the market.

Do your homework

"Do some research on the person you're working with," says Mark Turnowski, of EngagementRingsDirect.com. "And make sure that other people have been satisfied with the product they received so you'll feel comfortable that you're going to be one of those people who's satisfied and happy."

--T.S.

About Whiteflash.com

Whiteflash & Madison Together Again

"I always know I can count on Whiteflash to make me look stunning for my most important red carpet events,” said Madison Michele of her recent appearance at the 13th annual Screen Actors Guild (SAG) awards held at the Los Angeles Shrine Exposition Center. The celebrity reporter wore dazzling Whiteflash earrings and an enmeshed bracelet set with Whiteflash ACA diamonds while speaking with many of film and television’s leading actors. TNT and TBS simulcast the ceremonies, where annual awards for the outstanding motion picture and primetime television performances of 2006 were presented.

Michele was enthusiastic about her relationship with the online diamond boutique: “Whiteflash's unique blend of brilliance, elegance, and originality is a thrill to wear!” Seen above, Michele’s stunning ‘Enmeshed Bracelet’ bracelet features 5 carats of diamonds set in5 dancing rows ($6,990). The ‘Dual Halo’ earrings glitter with 1.60 carats of diamond melee ($3,360). The TV Guide reporter last sparkled in Whiteflash custom creations totaling over $600,000 at the 58th annual primetime Emmy Awards last August. (Story)

About Whiteflash.com

The Final C: Choosing Your Diamond

Choosing Your Diamond can be a difficult and personal decision. The most important aspect of choosing a diamond is settling upon a Cut and Shape that you will love and finding the quality and confirmation that you feel comfortable with. Choosing a diamond is as important as learning how to buy a diamond. Recognizing the 4 C's when choosing a diamond is essential in finding the perfect diamond to give a lifetime of beauty.

It's all about the Diamond's Cut: The only one of the 4Cs that is within man's control is the diamond's cut. It is imperative to know what kind of cut to look for when choosing a diamond. A well cut diamond can fetch up to twice the actual value of the stone. Every couple should understand the "Four C's" (Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat) before choosing a diamond but cut is one of the most important factors when choosing a diamond ring. It is often the one characteristic that is least understood by buyers. The stones can be cut to make them look bigger in size than they are in carat weight and has the most effect on its sparkle, or brilliance. Make sure to read up on CUT in the Diamond Education Section.

Laboratory Grading and Certification: We go to great lengths to make sure our customers have a good understanding of the basics of diamond grading. Every certified diamond receives a grading that describes the Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat of the stone. In most instances, it will also map out any inclusions whether they are visible by the naked eye or not. You will also want to find out which laboratory has issued the certificate. Ask to see the GIA certificate or AGS certificate for your diamond (these are the strictest grading laboratories and are the only ones trusted by Whiteflash.com). However, keep in mind that you are not buying a certificate, you are buying a diamond. Complete instructions on how to read a diamond certificate is also available in the Diamond Education Section.

Just remember that the most important part of choosing a diamond is to choose one that appeals to you personally. Recognizing the 4 C's (especially cut) and the importance of choosing one of the best grading laboratories when choosing a diamond is essential in finding the perfect diamond. A diamond is one of the only purchases that can will last a lifetime and beyond.

The Internet and Diamond Engagement Rings

Originating from 1477, the diamond engagement ring is the ultimate token of love and affection but the circle shape of an engagement ring is elemental and has been worn as adornment as far back as history is recorded. Now that people are buying diamond engagement rings online, the process of buying, choosing and even designing your engagement ring has never been easier.

The Buying Process: Analyze her tastes in jewelry and you're on your way to buying an engagement ring she'll love almost as much as she loves you. To make the best decision when buying an engagement ring, you should be ready with as much information as possible. With so many things already on your mind, confusion about buying an engagement ring should not be one of them. One rule of thumb when buying an engagement ring is that the buyer should plan on spending around two months' salary on the purchase. We prefer to suggest that you spend what you can afford. You'll probably be very excited about the idea of buying the engagement ring, but take your time. While arming yourself with as much information as possible seems like a lot of work, you can avoid a lot of this hassle by researching and buying your engagement ring online. Keep in mind that your wedding bands will usually need to be purchased within six months of buying the engagement ring.

Choosing the Perfect Ring: Choosing your engagement ring is about choosing the perfect ring for you - both of you. Let your tastes guide you when choosing an engagement ring. Choosing an engagement ring doesn't have to be complicated. It may be easier than you think. There are many styles to choose from including:

The internet has all the tools you will need when deciding what type of engagement ring to choose. However, what do you do if the engagement ring you envision does not exist?

Designing the Perfect Ring: More and more people are taking on the challenge of designing their own custom engagement ring. There are many ideas for when you are designing your own. More and more stars are designing their own engagement rings and the trend is spreading now that custom design is so prevalent on the internet. Remember, Whiteflash.com has been crowned "Lord of the Online Rings" by Kiplinger's Magazine. Some of the questions you will need to answer when creating a custom piece are:

What metals are to be used?
What type of head is to be used?
Measurements?
Finger size of wearer?
Will a matching ring be added later?
Size and descriptions of diamonds.
Number of diamonds?
How are they to be set?

Also remember that a picture is worth a thousand words. When you see a design you like, save the images. Designing a custom engagement ring is not about "reinventing the wheel." Many times, the best way to create your custom engagement ring is to take the parts from different existing designs and combing them into your very own unique creation.

When choosing or designing your engagement ring thoughts should be given to the matching wedding band as well. It sounds overwhelming. Just remember that choosing or designing a diamond engagement ring is part of a much larger decision that goes far beyond jewelry, tradition, or money. A diamond engagement ring is key to popping the question. So, go ahead and be creative in the process of creating your very own designer engagement ring.

What is the Diamond's Culet?

The culet is a tiny flat facet that may be put on the bottom of the pavilion of a diamond, parallel to the table facet at the top of the crown.

Most modern round diamonds have either no culet (also described as pointed or closed), or a very small, or small culet. Large or extremely large culets were common in diamonds cut in the early part of this century, such as the Old European or Old Mine Cut. However, such large culets are rarely seen today.

For many years all diamonds had the culet facet added to protect the tip of the pavilion from being chipped or damaged. Diamonds used to be set very low in jewelry and often the pavilion actually contacted the skin of the wearer’s finger, thus greater risk of damage to the exposed tip. A culet of medium size or larger may adversely influence light return, since such a facet is effectively a hole in the center of the diamond. Modern jewelry styles raise the pavilion of the diamond. The setting itself usually provides sufficient protection for the pavilion from impact and wear, so there is no need to add a culet. Any culet medium or larger is now rare.

Technically, a round brilliant with no culet is a 57 facet diamond, while one with any culet is a 58 facet diamond.

5 Easy Steps to finding the Perfect Engagement Ring

Determine Your Budget: A trick that some unscrupulous jewelers try when a customer is shopping for an engagement ring is to make him think the the amount he spends is somehow related to how much he loves his mate. You've seen the commercials pushing the idea that your diamond engagement ring should set you back "2 months salary". Forget about that. Do some comparison shopping at both your local jeweler as well as online. Determine your own budget based on your personal situation.

Be Organized: You will be presented with a lot of choices

Platinum or gold?
Modern, Antique or traditional?
Flashy or understated?

Consider who you are buying the engagement ring for. Is your bride-to-be:

Understated?
Extroverted?
Contemporary?
Have traditional values with regard to marriage?

You are the one that knows her best so try and design your ideas based on the things you have in common. There are a ton of engagement ring styles out there as well as jewelers who specialize in custom designed jewelry. Whatever you do, be organized.

Choose your Diamond: The most popular engagement ring stone is the "Round Brilliant Diamond" followed closely by the "Princess Cut Diamond." These 2 diamonds make up about 90% of the diamonds purchased for engagement rings. Even though these are the most popular, there are a lot of other shapes to consider such as:

Choosing your diamond can be the most fun part of the process because there is so much fascinating information out there. Whiteflash.com carries the branded Whiteflash ACA line of diamonds in both Hearts & Arrows and Princess cuts - both known to be the most Visually Balanced diamonds produced.

Next choose your setting: Just like diamond cuts, there are many styles of settings to choose from. One of the most popular is the "Tiffany" solitaire. Many feel that the solitaire diamond engagement setting is the best style to present a precision cut diamond such as the Expert Selection "X-Factor" or the Whiteflash ACA Hearts and Arrows diamond. Other styles include a 3 stone diamond setting, "Diamonds for Eternity"bands, Pave engagement ringsettings and more. You can see that this can be a complicated process! Don't worry though. This is the beginning of a lifetime of exciting challenges and you are sure to get off on the right foot.

Get a second opinion: Don't think you have to go this alone. The internet has some of the best resources available. On resource online is Pricescope. There you will find an entire community that is so passionate about every aspect of a diamond, you are sure to walk away confident you have made the best diamond purchase decision possible. There are also allot of great diamond vendors there who can save you a ton of money over your local jeweler - Whiteflash.com is one of those vendors so be sure to check out what people have to say about us.

If you end up purchasing your engagement ringonline at Whiteflash.com, be sure to tell your friends about the wonderful experience you have had. They will thank you for sharing how you maximized your budget and went beyond all expectation in the eyes of your sweetheart!

The Pave Engagement Ring

Pave Engagement rings (pronounced /diamonds_info. pah-vay) are named after pavement of all things. The reason is, pave diamonds are set so close together they appear to look like 'shiny' and 'sparkly' cobblestone pavement. One of the great things about selecting a pave diamond engagement setting is they typically maximize a ring's beauty, but not the cost - pave diamonds are so tiny they’re quite economical, but like larger diamonds the cut of pave varies, so be certain you’re getting high quality for maximum sparkle. These settings are constructed by drilling small holes into the ring shank and inserting the pave diamonds.

There are a couple of different types of pave engagement ring settings:

The first is a single band with a row of pave diamonds. It doesn't matter if the band is thin or wide as one will be suited best for small pave diamonds and the other will be suited for larger sizes of pave. For example, see the 'Legato' Engagement Ring with Micro Pave.

The second type of pave engagement ring setting is a wide band with several rows of pave diamonds. The stones are set at different angles from one another creating an intensly sparkling piece in virtually any lighting condition. An example of this type of setting is the 'Rhapsody' Pave Engagement Ring

Some more examples of Whiteflash.com's selection of Pave Engagement Rings and Diamond Engagement Settings:

For centuries diamonds have remained the symbol of true love. In the long run, it does not matter what type of diamond engagement ring you choose. The key is to choose an engagement ring that will help you to express your commitment in your own special way.

Engagement Ring Styles

It is traditional for Americans as well as Europeans to place an engagement ring on the left-hand ring finger of a woman who has accepted a man's proposal for marriage. The engagement ring is a symbol of the devotion and intent to be the one and only woman in her beau's life. It lets everyone know that your bride-to-be that is spoken for. In the classical history of engagement ring styles and traditions, the ring was fashioned from a plain gold band. Today, engagement ring styles have evolved into a plethora of choices that rival, in quantity, the purchase of the wedding ring.

Traditional engagement ring styles often deal with a precious metal band that showcases a diamond or other precious gem. Over the years, the modern engagement ring style seems to incorporate a wide range of band varieties, including silver, gold and the increasingly popular platinum option. Since the 1940s, a single diamond solitaire is practically considered standard in today's society. The well-known diamond company, De Beers, who pushed a highly successful advertising vision for the gem, made all of this possible.

It is not uncommon to see emeralds, rubies or sapphires taking the place of a diamond, but it is the diamond that symbolizes strength and purity; something that will last a lifetime. Engagement ring styles are often based on their durability, which is seen through the gems, as well as the bands. Gold and platinum last longer and represent higher quality than silver.

A growing trend among band materials includes titanium and stainless steel, which costs less, but also have a higher level of durability. It is these materials that allow a tension setting that projects the illusion of a stone that is floating.

There are many different engagement ring styles to choose from including classic and modern looks. With classic engagement ring styles, the settings are usually platinum in the bands with a round or princess-cut for the diamond. Many modern engagement ring styles use a bezel-set design, making daily wear a compatible addition to any wardrobe.

As with all jewelry there are trends in engagement ring styles that are hitting the scene which includes antique rings that present a vintage flair that allows you to feel like you are wearing an heirloom. Some of the characteristics of these rings include floral accents, as well as filigree settings.

Platinum rings tend to be more expensive, but they will not only last longer, but will also keep its brilliant shine. It will not tarnish or yellow like other metals. These bands also make a variety of hand-carved, customized options possible.