Whiteflash.com - Diamond and Jewelry Articles

Budgeting for your Diamond Purchase

Budgeting (The 5th C: Cost)

You may have heard suggestions about that the appropriate sum to spend on a diamond is based upon your salary. You should disregard such advice and spend what you are comfortable spending. The experience will be much more pleasurable if you set a budget and work within it. There are small compromises that can be made to fit a nice looking diamond into almost any budget. In each of the sections on the four C's we give advice on getting the best bang for the buck. They are compiled below for quick reference. In addition, compare price among different shapes. You may find that you can get the same size and quality for less money by considering a different shape.

Practical advice: color

While colorless stones are rarer and cost more, near-colorless stones will look essentially the same to the eye when set in jewelry. Choosing a GHIJ color instead of one in the DEF range will enable you to get a larger diamond for the money, without a substantial compromise in performance or beauty. If the diamond is to be set in white gold or platinum, aim a little higher on the scale than you would if setting it in yellow gold. Yellow gold disguises body color whereas white metal reveals it.

Blue fluorescence can add to eye appeal of near-colorless diamonds and therefore be a benefit. Fluorescence is not a benefit to a colorless stone and may reduce its value. Very Strong fluorescence in some cases and under certain conditions can diminish a diamond's performance and beauty

Practical advice: clarity

For jewelry purposes Si2 clarity is sufficient to allow for brilliance and performance. Even close examination with the naked eye will not reveal any flaws in most cases. For engagement purposes many buyers prefer stones with higher purity. Selecting Si1 or Si2 rather than a higher grade can enable a buyer to own a larger and/or better color diamond for the money without a substantial drop off in beauty or performance.

Practical advice: carat

Apparent diamond size varies depending on the carat weight and the proportioning of the cut. A 1.00ct stone that is cut a little too deep might actually be smaller looking than a 0.90ct stone that is well proportioned. Also, at certain carat levels, per carat prices increase substantially. It is sometimes possible to get real price savings by staying just under these so called 'magic marks'. For instance, a well cut stone of 0.45 ct might be quite a bit less expensive than the same quality 0.50ct, yet have a visual appearance virtually the same. The important magic marks are 0.50ct, 0.70ct, 1.00ct, 1.25ct, 1.50ct, 2.00ct, 3.00ct, 5.00ct.

Practical advice: cut

While a good quality round diamond with an 'ideal' cut will certainly be very beautiful, very good and premium cuts might be just as attractive without costing a premium. While no commonly accepted 'ideal' cut parameters exist for fancy shapes, good and very good cut grades will result in the best performance. Consider the length to width ratio of the diamond and the design of the mounting when selecting a fancy shape.

About Us
Whiteflash is the first company in the U.S. to specialize in the coveted Hearts & Arrows diamond and bring the sheer beauty of “super ideal cut” to the Internet. Debi Wexler, a computer entrepreneur founded Whiteflash in 2000 bringing an expansive selection of loose diamonds to the Internet, including an exclusive brand of Hearts & Arrows. A Cut Above (ACA®) is unmatched in its brilliance, fire and sparkle and remains the only Hearts & Arrows diamond sold online with advertised standards and a “true patterning” guarantee. In addition, Whiteflash offers original handcrafted platinum and gold settings, diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, custom designed engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Diamond Cut

Cut is the only diamond value factor that is the result of human input. This important factor may be the most difficult to understand because it is the most technical, but gaining a basic understanding does not have to be daunting. Cut refers to the proportioning, alignment and finish of a diamond's polished faces or facets. Proper cutting enables a diamond to perform at its best and release its full potential for fire and brilliance. A well cut diamond will be more beautiful and more valuable than a poorly cut stone.

In addition, a cutter will usually have to sacrifice more of the rough stone to produce a well cut finished stone, thereby ending up with a smaller diamond than had he taken liberties with the cut. Well cut stones therefore yield less weight from the rough and are therefore more expensive to produce.

Fire, Brilliance, and Scintillation

These are the three aspects of diamond performance and they are distinct elements.

Fire refers to a diamond's ability to act as a prism and to break white light into its spectral colors. Diamonds with good fire will exhibit little sparks of red, green, yellow, and blue as light refracts through and out of the stone to the eye.

Brilliance is the total amount of light returned to the eye and results in the overall brightness of the stone.

Scintillation is the sparkle of the diamond and is determined by the cutting style and execution of the cut.

The quality of a diamond's cut is a complicated interaction of proportions and finishing factors. Many combinations can result in beautiful finished stones. Because the above mentioned performance elements are distinct, it is possible for the cutter to make tradeoffs in the process. For instance, making the table facet a little larger may make the stone slightly more brilliant and slightly less fiery. So while there are cut guidelines, in the end beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Note: The word "cut" is also used in reference to a diamond's shape -- round cut, marquise cut, princess cut, etc. It is less confusing to restrict the term "cut" to a discussion of the proportions, alignment and finish of a polished diamond.

The following illustrations show the various parts of a diamond and the measurements used in the analysis of a diamond's cut:

Below is a depiction of the behavior of light entering a diamond. Well cut diamonds refract and reflect a high percentage of light back to the eye, whereas poorly cut diamonds allow light to leak out the bottom resulting in diminished brilliance and fire.

Table, Depth, Polish, and Symmetry

Depth percentage, the ratio of the total depth to the diameter, and table percentage, the ratio of the size of the large table facet to the diameter of the stone, are the most important factors affecting the overall performance of the diamond.

Additionally, two other factors in the detailing of the diamond are important in fine tuning the final product. Symmetry refers to the alignment of the facets with one another, and polish refers to the final mirror finish achieved all the facets.

Ideal, super ideal, triple o, hearts and arrows, branded and signature cuts

As if the subject of cutting was not complicated enough, now there are an ever increasing number of competing ideas about what cutting parameters are truly the best.

The concept of an "ideal" cut first gained popularity in 1919 when mathematician Gabriel Tolkowsky published a study of the behavior of light in a cut diamond and came up with a formula for proportions that would result in the most beautiful round diamond.

Over the years experimentation and scientific study have revealed that there are many proportion combinations that result in superb finished diamonds. In fact, the most important study on the subject ever conducted and utilizing advanced computer modeling technologies is the ongoing study by the Gemological Institute of America.

Despite all the hype in the trade as different companies go about promoting their own versions of "ideal" diamonds, the position of the GIA on the subject is stated in their educational materials in this way: "Unfortunately, there is no proof that any one set of proportions is truly "ideal." Preliminary results of ongoing research on cut suggest that many different proportion combinations succeed equally well."

For this reason, GIA does render qualitative cut "grades" on their reports.

To underscore how complicated the subject is, despite advanced research no definitive conclusion has been reached regarding the round brilliant cut. Fancy shapes offer a mind numbing range of different variables that may defy definitive pronouncements for generations to come!

Fancy Shapes

Diamond shapes other than round are referred to as fancy shapes. Almost any shape is possible and there are new designs coming into the market regularly as new diamond cutting technologies are developed. Determining a cut grade for fancy shapes is far more complicated than for rounds, and as a result there are no rigid standards, and therefore no "ideal" or "premium" combination of proportions. To a great extent with fancies, "beauty is in the eye of the beholder."

One of the most important aspects in fancies is the overall outline of the shape. The diamond's outline will affect the eye appeal of the stone as well as the overall design of a finished piece of jewelry. Yet this remains a relatively subjective factor.

For instance, some people might prefer a long slender marquise for a design that accentuates a long slender finger. Likewise, a pendant design might favor an elongated pear shape over one with broad shoulders.

To help you understand and visualize the outline of the stone, we have included a calculation of the length to width ratio for all our fancies on each diamond detail page. In addition, we present a representative image of a diamond with a length to width ratio similar to the diamond being viewed. By knowing the length to width ratio of the diamond in the representative image and comparing that to the ratio of the actual diamond, you are able to get a very close visualization of the outline of the actual diamond under consideration.

For example, if you are looking at a marquise shaped stone and the representative image has a ratio of 1.78, and you see in the diamond details that the actual stone has a ratio of 1.85, you know that the diamond you are considering is very slightly more elongated than the representative image. Likewise, if you are looking at an oval and the representative image is 1.45, and the actual diamond has a ratio of 1.39, you know that the stone you are considering is slightly wider than the diamond in the representative image.

We hope that you find this tool helpful in selecting the fancy shape best for your taste and best suited to the piece of jewelry that you wish to create.

Whiteflash.com's cut grades

Although there seems in fact to be no single set of parameters that are universally accepted as best, we use commonly accepted industry norms in arriving at a cut grade on our diamonds that will give customers a solid sense of quality. The values in the following tables form the basis for our dynamic cut grading system. This guidance is intended for use in conjunction with a review of the other attributes detailed in the lab report.

Round Brilliant
	Table %		Depth %
	Low	High	Low	High
Ideal	53	57	60.1	62.9
Premium	53	59	59.8	63.9
Very Good	52	60	58.0	63.9
Good	52	64	57.0	64.3
Fair	51	67	55.0	67.0
Poor	< 51	68 >	< 59	68 >

Marquise
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	51	69	54	67	1.75	2.2
Good	50	75	47	76	1.6	2.85
Fair	45	78	44	77	1.5	3.15
Poor	<44	90>	<0	43>	1.0	NA

Princess
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	59	78	64	75	1.0	1.4
Good	55	86	62	83.9	1.5	1.6
Fair	50	89	60	86.9	1.7	1.9
Poor	<49	90>	<60	87>	2.0	NA

Emerald
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	61	72	58	68	1.0	1.7
Good	60	82	56	79.9	1.8	2.0
Fair	58	86	50	83.3	2.1	2.3
Poor	<58	87>	<50	84>	2.4	NA

Pear
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	52	66	53	65	1.5	1.7
Good	51	67	50	72.9	1.35	1.85
Fair	48	69	48	75	1.2	2.05
Poor	<48	69>	<48	75>	1.0	NA

Radiant
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	61	78	59.7	73	1.0	1.6
Good	58	80	56	79.9	1.7	1.8
Fair	53	84	55	83.9	1.9	2.0
Poor	50	100	0	100	2.1	NA

Oval
	Table %		Depth %		Length to Width %
	Low	High	Low	High	Low	High
Very Good	52	63	57	65	1.5	1.7
Good	51	66	53	68.9	1.25	1.85
Fair	50	67	52	73.5	1.15	2.05
Poor	<50	67>	<52	74>	1.0	NA

Practical Advice

While a good quality round diamond with an "ideal" cut will certainly be very beautiful, very good and premium cuts might be just as attractive without costing a premium. While no commonly accepted "ideal" cut parameters exist for fancy shapes, good and very good cut grades will result in the best performance. Consider the length to width ratio of the diamond and the design of the mounting when selecting a fancy shape.

Diamond Carat Weight

This is the easiest factor to understand, although there is a little wrinkle here too! Carat is a measure of weight: 5 carats = 1 gram, 1carat = 0.20 gram.

Carat weight is stated decimal terms, such that one carat is written 1.00ct. One and a half carat = 1.50ct, three quarters of a carat = 0.75ct and so on.

Diamonds under one carat are commonly talked about in terms of "points" which are simply percentage points of a carat (1.00ct= 100 points). So a quarter of a carat (0.25ct) is said to be 25 points, half carat is 50 points, 0.98ct is 98 points and so on. Because a carat is a unit of weight, diamonds of exactly the same carat weight can appear to be different sizes, depending on the proportions of the cut. A thicker or deeper cut will look smaller than a stone with a larger surface area or "spread".

The illustration below shows relative visual sizes of well cut diamonds in a range of carat weights. (not intended to represent actual sizes)

Rarity and value increase with diamond size- an important concept to appreciate. A 1.00ct diamond of a certain quality is far rarer than the same quality in a 0.50ct diamond. Therefore, the cost of the 1.00 is more than simply twice the cost of the 50 pointer. As a result, the per carat price of like quality diamonds increases with size. In the example above, the 50 pointer might cost $2000/ct -a total of $1000, whereas the 1.00ct diamond in the same quality might cost $3900/ct totalling $3900.

Note: Carat is sometimes confused with Karat (and for good reason!). Whereas carat is a measure of gemstone weight, Karat is a measure of gold purity. 24 Karat is pure gold, 14K is 14/24 pure (58.5%), 18K is 18/24 pure (75%).

Practical advice:

Apparent diamond size varies depending on the carat weight and the proportioning of the cut. A 1.00ct stone that is cut a little too deep might actually be smaller looking than a 0.90ct stone that is well proportioned. Also, at certain carat levels, per carat prices increase substantially. It is sometimes possible to get real price savings by staying just under these so called "magic marks". For instance, a well cut stone of 0.45 ct might be quite a bit less expensive than the same quality 0.50ct, yet have a visual appearance virtually the same. The important magic marks are 0.50ct, 0.70ct, 1.00ct, 1.25ct, 1.50ct, 2.00ct, 3.00ct, 5.00ct.

Diamond Clarity

Nearly every diamond contains some external blemishes or internal inclusions that can be detected with magnification. To the extent that diamonds are free of these characteristics they are more rare and valuable. Diamonds with higher clarity or "purity" are more expensive than diamonds with lower clarity and more imperfections. In addition to being rarer, stones with higher clarity are capable of reflecting and refracting light better.

Diamonds are graded for clarity based upon the number, size and location of these tiny inclusions. They also serve to create a very unique identifying signature for a specific diamond, much like a fingerprint.

The clarity grading system most widely used around the world is the GIA scale. Professional grading is done in controlled conditions under 10X magnification.

It is helpful to think of clarity in terms of grade ranges with the following descriptions.

Clarity Descriptions
Abbreviation	Definition	Description
F, IF	Flawless - Internally Flawless	Flawless stones have no external blemishes or internal inclusions when examined by an experienced grader using 10X magnification. Internally Flawless diamonds have no inclusions under 10X magnification but have minute external blemishes.
VVS1, VVS2	Very, Very Slightly Include	Contains minute inclusions that are difficult even for an experienced grader to see under 10X magnification.
VS1, VS2	Very Slightly Included	Contains minor inclusions observed with effort under 10X magnification.
SI1, SI2, *Si3 (not used by GIA)	Slightly Included	Contain inclusions that are noticeable to an experienced grader under 10X magnification. Almost always clean to the naked eye.
I1, I2, I3	Included	Contain inclusions obvious under 10X magnification. Inclusions may affect transparency, brilliance and even durability.

Practical advice:

Diamond Color

Almost all loose diamondspossess some degree of body color, usually yellow or brown. A small percentage of diamonds are colorless, and an even smaller number possess body color so strong that they are classified as "fancy colors".

Color is graded on the scale developed by the GIA and is almost universally used today to classify diamonds in the world market. The "normal range" of this alphabetic scale starts at "D" (colorless) and runs through "Z" (light yellow or brown). Colorless stones are rarer and more valuable than stones with body color in the normal range. However, diamonds graded as fancy are analyzed differently and can be extremely valuable.

It is helpful to think of the scale in terms of grade ranges: D,E,F are considered colorless, G,H,I,J are near-colorless and lower grades are slightly tinted to lightly tinted.

Differences between color grades are extremely subtle. Professional diamond grading is done in controlled lighting conditions with the stones in table-down position, with the grader looking through the girdle of the stone in order to see the slight differences in body color. Diamonds in the near-colorless to colorless range will appear white or colorless to the eye when viewed through the table.

In addition to the increased rarity and value of colorless stones, body color also impacts the quality of light emanating from a diamond. Body color acts as a sort of filter that diminishes to an extent the pure nature of light returning to the eye. Colorless diamonds that are well-cut exhibit the best spectral display or "fire."

Although lower colors can still be very beautiful Whiteflash.com prefers to sell only diamonds of J color and above.

Flourescence

Flourescence, also known as photoluminescence, is a property in some diamonds that causes them to glow when exposed to ultraviolet light. The effect is rarely noticeable under normal circumstances and is chiefly an identifying characteristic of a given diamond. In many cases flourescence is a benefit, helping lower colors to appear whiter, but in rare cases it is detrimental, causing the stone to look slightly foggy in certain light.

Practical advice:

Blue flourescense can add to eye appeal of near-colorless diamonds and therefore be a benefit. Very strong fluorescence will not enhance colorless stones and may detract from their beauty and value.

How safe is it shopping for diamond jewelry online?

Military Benefits

As a tribute to the men and women serving oversees many e-commerce sites, such as Whiteflash, have free domestic shipping and 1% military discounts for those serving our country. Using the Internet connections oversees, many military personnel already shop Whiteflash.com to send jewelry to their significant others. The company says members of the military send gifts for birthdays, anniversaries and Mother’s Day—or just to say ‘I love you’ or that they’re missed.

Be an educated customer

Consider getting a guide book or searching online forums before you shop and brush up on your Diamond Education. The more you know about the four C’s, the grading scale and certification process, the better equipped you will be to get the best bling for your buck. Make sure that the store you choose to purchase from has a subject matter expert to answer your questions by email or phone.

Comparison Shop
Search various online retailers in order to get an idea of what a competitive price for your gem or precious stone should be. Helpful comparison tools include the “ring builder” features that most online stores offer. They will give you free quotes without any obligation to buy. Many sites allow you to save your comparison rings so that you can consider several options at once.

Reputation Matters
Shop with an online jeweler who has an established reputation for good business practice (one way to check on this is to make sure that they have a satisfactory rating with the Better Business Bureau). Whiteflash.com, which is the largest online retailer of certified diamonds and is consistently rated highly by customers and media publications because of their high quality products and highly educated customer relationship managers. Make sure that whatever company you choose offers at least a money back guarantee. They also must provide you with a certificate or equivalent for your diamond.

Ask for an Appraisal and Certificate
Your diamond should be issued an appraisal of its value. You should also ask your jeweler if the diamond has been treated with any fillers or other laboratory enhancements. If it hasn’t, he should issue you a certificate of authenticity. This paperwork is essential if you choose to have your ring insured.

Warranty
You also need to inquire about the warranty of your diamond. Some jewelers will continue to warranty the ring if you visit regularly for them to clean and check the setting of the ring. These basic maintenance tasks guarantee that your ring will remain as brilliant on your fiftieth anniversary as it was on your wedding day.

No matter which type of engagement ring you ultimately buy, by following certain tasks and approaching the purchase in an educated fashion, you will be pleased with an investment that will grow in value just as your love continues to grow throughout your marriage.

Gemstones: What Do They Really Mean?

Pearls are very feminine and classic. Great for every day wear. Also quite affordable, so good for bridesmaids gifts, mothers day, or even for a birthday. Whiteflashhas a great selection of pearl jewelry. We also have the capability of providing a custom precious gem search for you. Birthstones are also an option. September’s stone is sapphire, which comes in every color of the rainbow! Red rubies can signify love.

Amethyst which has royal purple hues has always been a famous gem amongst the kings and queens. It’s also a great fall winter color. It is the birthstone of people who are born in February.

Diamondis the birthstone of April. The word, “Diamond,” is from the Greek “adamas”- meaning invincible. It can be found in all the colors of the rainbow. Diamonds are believed to be the ultimate gift for couples on their wedding day. Diamonds are valued considering the 4 C’ssuch as cut ,color ,clarity and carat weight.

Emerald, which has a lush green hues and a rare beauty is May’s birthstone. It is known as the “symbol of spring.” In the ancient world this gem was believed to symbolize hope, arrival of spring and rebirth. Emeralds come in various varieties of light and dark shades of green and sometimes having background hues of different colors like yellow, blue, brown of gray.

Ruby is known as the “King of Gems.” As being the ultimate red gemstone it symbolizes passion and romance and its sometimes referred to as the “blood” gemstone representing courage and bravery.

Sapphire is the ultimate blue gemstone. It is known as “The Jewel of the Sky” and is the birthstone for September. Sapphire is virtually synonymous with blue; the stone also comes in a variety of fancy colors.

Tanzanite, which was discovered in 1967 in Tanzania, is a newcomer to the gemstone market. It is known as the “Jewel of East Africa.” Tanzanite is typically brown with reddish, orange, yellow, or bronze hues.

Are There Different Levels of Jewelry For Different Levels of Commitment?

Technically, each length of a relationship has specific types of gifts associated with it that gradually become more elaborate the longer a couple has been dating. So there are defiantly varying levels of gifts for various stages of commitment. Diamond Earringsare practical and can be worn with nearly any wardrobe in nearly any circumstance, and they provide a classic, elegant accent while not seeming to over the top. Necklace and diamond pendantsare good for anniversary presents, birthdays, or just because, and don’t have to be too extravagant or expensive. You can also get affordable, but sparkly studs that really make a statement if she likes her hair short. Or you can go with something a little more blingy, and dangly like the Diamonds By the Yard earringswhich make more of a “statement.”

The key to choosing the right piece of jewelryis to be sure it is suitable for the person in question. A man who never wears ties, for example, would not be as likely to appreciate a diamond-studded tie clip. A woman who frequently works out with a variety of vigorous activities would not have much use for an elaborate bracelet that could be easily damaged. You should carefully consider the person for whom the jewelry is intended.

In reality, what gifts a couple chooses to exchange should not be dictated by a calendar but what best suits their personality.

10 Diamond Cuts and Their Meanings

From classic round to cutting-edge cushion, rate your sparkler with our savvy diamond guide.

Pear

The look: Resembling a teardrop, a pear-shaped diamond has the fire and beauty of a round shape, but with a less conventional look. This shape can also make a wide finger look slimmer.

This choice says you’re: even-tempered and adaptable.

Oval

The look: If you love the gorgeous sparkle of a round, brilliant-cut diamond but still want something unique, consider an oval. A fresh take on a timeless style, this new shape came about in the early 1960s. Actor Jerry O’Connell recently gave his betrothed fashionista, Rebecca Romijn, an oval-shaped sparkler.

This choice says you’re: risk-taking and creative

Asscher

The look: Square with angular corners, this shape dates back to the late 1800s. If you look closely, you’ll see that it’s step-cut, meaning the facets are rectangular and seem to descend into the stone.

This choice says you’re: feminine and meticulous.

Round

The look: Also known as brilliant-cut, this tried-and-true shape reflects more light than any other, and is the most popular. Avril Lavigne showed her traditional side by wearing a round diamond engagement ring.

This choice says you’re: trustworthy and easygoing.

Emerald

The look: Inspired by the Asscher, this glamorous choice is also a rectangular step-cut shape. It has fewer facets than some of the other shapes, so look for an emerald-cut that offers maximum brilliance.

This choice says you’re: efficient and straightforward.

Cushion

The look: Rectangular with curved sides, the cushion-cut first hit big in the 18th century. A recent resurgence in popularity has given it a modern-meets-vintage feel. Ben Affleck gave Jennifer Garner a cushion-cut rock.

This choice says you’re: organized and daring.

Princess

The look: This relatively new square shape, with a modern, understated feel, combines a sparkly, brilliant effect with a geometric step-cut. You can attribute its spectacular glitter to extra faceting around the rim.

This choice says you’re: decisive and fun-loving.

Radiant

The look: The diamond’s shape has the outer lines and cut corners of the emerald’s crown while enjoying triangular faceting like the round on the pavilion. It was designed to have the best qualities of both round brilliant and emerald cut diamonds.

This choice says you’re: trend settings and fashionable

Marquise

The look: The marquis shape is an oval with tips. It not only helps to make the hand appear longer and slimmer, but it also makes the diamond appear larger than it actually is.

The choice says you’re: unique and adventurous

Heart

The look: This century-old shape, symbolizing love and devotion, should be well proportioned for optimum sparkle. Kid Rock proposed to Pamela Anderson with a yellow heart-shaped diamond.

This choice says you’re: sentimental and dreamy.

My fiancé has an obsession with rose gold. How can I subtly incorporate that into her engagement or wedding ring without going overboard?

There are many ways to use rose gold to accent and add a splash of color to your engagement or wedding ring, depending on the style ring you choose. A rose gold halo engagement ringis a nice way to incorporate some color to your design. Pink sapphires may further enhance the pink color of the gold, while staying cost effective. Some rose gold scroll work in the gallery of the engagement ring also adds a nice touch. With these tips on rose gold accents you are sure to be safe!