Asscher Cut vs Emerald Cut Diamonds (A Buyer's Guide)

A woman picking out a diamond engagement ring

When it comes to buying a diamond, there are a lot of choices to make. The first decision is often about the shape or cut of the diamond. The Asscher cut and the emerald cut are two similar styles that appeal to many gem shoppers. They both feature large step facets, a distinctive open appearance, and a vintage look. There are distinct differences between the two that can affect how much you will pay for a stone of each cut, as well as how each will look in an engagement ring.

In this guide, we'll unpack the details of the Asscher and emerald cuts to help you decide which one is right for you.

What is an Asscher Cut Diamond?

An Asscher cut diamond is a unique step-cut diamond with cropped corners that looks like a square from the top view. The pattern resembles a hall of mirrors with long facets coming from each corner to the center.

The cut has an understated look that gives it a classic and sophisticated vibe. With an extra high crown, it looks taller from the side view than other diamond cuts. This creates an elegant presence that is reminiscent of the grand Art Deco styles of the 1920s.

A Brief History of the Asscher Cut

First created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of the Asscher Diamond Company, the Asscher cut became popular in the 1920s. The Asscher family patented the cut, giving them exclusive rights to produce it until the 1940s.

Original Asscher cuts had 58 facets, but modern versions have 78 facets and a raised crown for extra sparkle and panache. The contemporary cut is called the Royal Asscher Diamond.

Why Choose an Asscher Cut Diamond?

Asscher-cut diamonds are a rare find, making up only 2% of all diamonds cut worldwide. Though the Asscher diamond cut has been around since 1902, it’s still a unique and unexpected choice for those who prefer to deviate from the norm.

Pros and Cons of the Asscher Cut Diamond

Pros

Perfect for those who love the class and sophistication of the emerald cut but want more sparkle.
Features a unique windmill facet pattern that is unlike any other diamond cut out there.
The cut of the Asscher does not leave it with any specific vulnerable points, making it a durable choice.
A versatile choice, the Asscher-cut diamond pairs well with most settings, styles, and metal colors.

Cons

They have reduced brilliance and scintillation due to the nature of being a step-cut diamond.
The open faceting style of step cuts allows for imperfections and inclusions to be seen more easily.
Asscher-cut diamonds are tough to find, both in general and in high quality.
Due to their rarity and wasteful cutting process, Asscher cuts are typically about 10% more expensive than other diamond shapes of the same carat weight, except the round brilliant.

Step-Cut Diamonds with an Architectural Edge

Emerald cut diamonds belong to a family of step-cut diamonds. Their long, rectangular shape and large, open table create a unique, elegant look that stands out from brilliant cut diamonds. The cutting style features long, parallel facets that resemble an art deco staircase. Though rectangular emerald cuts are the most common, they can also come in square shapes with cropped corners.

A History of Cool

Emerald cut diamonds have a rich history that speaks to their timeless appeal. First developed in the 1500s for cutting emeralds, this style helped reduce pressure on the stone, thereby lessening the risk of breakage.

Since diamonds are much harder than emeralds, it wasn’t long before diamond cutters adopted the technique for their own. The refined, geometric look of the emerald cut has been a popular choice ever since.

Vintage Vibes and Modern Settings

Emerald cut diamonds have long been associated with vintage style, and for good reason. Their history, along with their classy, elegant appearance, gives them an Old Hollywood charm. But don’t be fooled. While they look stunning in antique settings, they also pair beautifully with sleek, modern designs for a fresh, contemporary aesthetic.

The Good, the Bad, and the Sparkly

Emerald cut diamonds are less expensive than round brilliants but still come with a hefty price tag. Here’s the good news: the cutting process can enhance the diamond’s durability, helping to protect against chips and breakage. They’re also relatively easy to find in a variety of sizes and quality gradings.

The bad news? You may pay just as much or more for an eye-clean emerald-cut diamond because of the need for very high clarity. Inclusions are much more visible on the flat surface of the stone, and they can impact the overall look of your diamond. Lastly, emerald cut diamonds aren’t as fiery or sparkly as their brilliant cut counterparts.

Expert Guidance Meets Exceptional Inventory: Finding the Right Diamond with Whiteflash

Whiteflash offers an extensive collection of loose diamonds, including our precision-cut A CUT ABOVE® collection and lab-grown options, alongside designer engagement ring settings from renowned names like Tacori and Verragio. Our comprehensive diamond search tools, detailed grading reports, and HD imaging let you compare cuts, evaluate VVS quality diamonds, and understand precisely what you're purchasing before you buy.

We have a GIA-trained team available to guide you through the selection process. You have access to both the premium inventory and expert knowledge needed to make an informed decision, whether:

You're building a custom ring
Choosing from our curated collection
Exploring our Houston showroom

Find your dream engagement ring and loose diamonds to complete engagement rings. We provide the quality, transparency, and service that make your investment worthwhile.

Asscher Cut vs Emerald Cut: Key Differences Between the Two

Shape and Style: Aesthetic Differences Between Asscher and Emerald Cuts

The Asscher cut diamond is a square-shaped stone with cropped corners and deep step facets, creating a striking “hall of mirrors” effect. Known for its symmetry and bold geometry, it channels vintage Art Deco glamour. If you’re drawn to clean lines and architectural drama, the Asscher cut delivers both balance and impact.

Emerald Cut Elegance: Refined Sparkle with a Sleek Silhouette

The Emerald cut, by contrast, is rectangular with long, elegant facets that produce a subtle, sophisticated sparkle. Its elongated shape exudes quiet refinement and has a flattering lengthening effect on the finger, especially in higher length-to-width ratios (typically 1.30 to 1.60).

In short:

Asscher = square, dramatic, architectural

Emerald = elongated, elegant, sleek

Clarity: What You See Is What You Get

Both Asscher and Emerald cuts are step cuts, featuring large, open tables and fewer facets than brilliant cuts. This gives them a subtle, mirror-like flash rather than a fiery sparkle, but also makes inclusions and blemishes more visible.

Why Clarity Matters More with Step Cuts, and How Lab-Grown Diamonds Give You an Edge

If you’re prioritising an eye-clean appearance, these shapes typically require a higher clarity grade. For diamonds over 2 carats, we often recommend VS1 clarity or better, and in some cases, VVS for optimal transparency.

Lab-grown diamonds offer a clear advantage here: their affordability often allows you to choose a higher clarity grade, achieving that crisp, flawless look without compromising on size or style.

Color: Tone Matters More

Because step cuts reveal everything, including color, they’re less forgiving than rounds or cushions. The large, open table makes even subtle warmth visible, especially in Asscher cuts where the eye is drawn straight to the centre by the stone’s symmetry.

Choosing the Right Color Grade for Step Cuts Without Compromising on Style

For both shapes, we typically recommend diamonds in the G–I color range for a balanced look. If you're working with a larger stone or a platinum setting, stepping up to an E–F color grade can deliver the crisp, icy aesthetic these cuts showcase so beautifully.

Lab-grown diamonds make this upgrade far more attainable, allowing you to prioritise higher color without sacrificing size or style.

Cut Quality: It’s Everything

Cut is the most influential factor in how your diamond looks. Although GIA doesn’t assign cut grades to fancy shapes like Asscher and Emerald cuts, you can still evaluate cut quality through proportions, such as table and depth percentages, as well as polish and symmetry.

Why Cut Proportions Matter More Than Paper: Finding the Right Look in Asscher and Emerald Diamonds

For Asscher cuts, perfect or near-perfect symmetry is essential to maintain the signature “X” or “windmill” pattern. Any imbalance will be immediately visible.
For Emerald cuts, the cut has a significant impact on the stone’s overall shape. The length-to-width ratio determines whether the diamond appears sleek and elongated or more square, so choose a silhouette that suits your design vision.

Since paper specs don’t tell the whole story, our team can help you review HD videos and detailed proportions to ensure you're selecting a visually exceptional diamond. Even two VS1 Emeralds can look dramatically different in real life.

Carat Weight and Value: Less Isn’t Always More

Asscher and Emerald cuts are generally less expensive per carat than round brilliants, but there’s a catch. Many step-cut diamonds suffer from what’s known as “carat stuffing”: extra weight hidden in the pavilion (the lower half of the diamond) that increases cost without enhancing visible size.

Maximize Value with Lab-Grown Diamonds: More Carat, Better Quality

This is where lab-grown diamonds offer a real advantage. You can opt for a higher carat weight while still maintaining exceptional quality, and avoid overpaying for hidden, non-visible weight. Thanks to the cost savings, you can also invest more in what truly matters: clarity, color, and cut quality that brings your diamond to life.

Should You Buy an Asscher Cut or an Emerald Cut?

Choosing an Asscher-cut diamond signals a love for vintage charm and refined design. With its square shape, cropped corners, and deep step facets, the Asscher cut evokes classic Art Deco elegance. Its precise symmetry creates a striking “hall of mirrors” effect, a look that’s both timeless and distinctive.

Understated Brilliance: The Allure of Asscher Cuts and the Lab-Grown Advantage

Unlike brilliant cuts that dazzle with sparkle, Asscher cuts offer a more subtle, sophisticated glow, ideal for those who appreciate:

Clean lines
Craftsmanship
Individuality

Lab-grown Asscher-cut diamonds make this level of beauty more accessible. Their affordability allows you to prioritise higher clarity and color grades, giving your ring a crisp, luminous finish without compromising your budget.

Emerald Cut Diamonds: Understated Bold Elegance

Emerald cuts are the epitome of understated luxury. Their elongated rectangular shape and elegant step facets create a sophisticated “hall of mirrors” effect, and they often appear larger than other cuts of the same carat weight. Perfect for long, slender fingers, they offer a naturally flattering, lengthening effect on the hand.

Modern Elegance Meets Smart Value: Styling and Selecting the Perfect Emerald Cut

These diamonds shine in modern settings, whether placed vertically for a timeless look or rotated east-west for a contemporary twist. If your style is sleek, refined, and slightly unconventional, an emerald cut is a perfect match.

Like Asschers, emerald cuts feature large open tables that don’t easily mask imperfections, so higher clarity and color grades are recommended. Lab-grown emerald cuts make it easier to step up to VS1 or VVS clarity and near-colorless shades, giving you top-tier quality without the mined-stone premium.

Find your Dream Engagement Ring and Loose Diamonds at Whiteflash Today!

With our GIA-trained team available to guide you through the selection process. You have access to both the premium inventory and expert knowledge needed to make an informed decision, whether:

You're building a custom ring
Choosing from our curated collection
Exploring our Houston showroom

Find your dream engagement ring and loose diamonds to complete engagement rings. We provide the quality, transparency, and service that make your investment worthwhile.